trebor69

Fantastic bike this.

I've been riding bikes for 34 years and had my full licence since 89, I've pretty much ridden all cc's too and believe me a decent 600 ridden properly has the potential kick the arse of pretty much anything on the road. If you want to go fast in straight lines then go for big cc but for all around handling and cornering then you'll find a 600 will slow down much quicker for corners and being lighter can be thrown around and will change direction a lot quicker. My ZRX1100 was very comfortable but it was a fight to get it where I wanted (at high speed) and pretty much impossible (on A roads) to use all of it's power. The 750 jap sports bikes are as big as you need if you are a bit heavier but as I'm getting older now I've gone for comfort too, I now have a 650 bandit and can ring the hell out of it and chuck it where I want to and it's great fun and doesn't give my back grief like my 7r's. This is all just MY opinion you understand

Pull the white plastic piece up and back and it pushes the plug apart

Is this the correct link? There is no emery paper used in that vid.

What exactly did you use?

I pity the fool

Thanks for the info Chris, it's going back.

Mine won't even get in my car

The pump in question is in a box in the garage, I know it was fitted correctly as I'm anal that way, car is running fine and boosting fine with the standard pump in. Can I test the pump by putting a 12v feed to it and measure it that way without putting it back in the car, is that what you're saying?

Not sure what my multimeter will read but I know the car will not run for longer than 2 seconds max with the Walbro fitted and I really don't want to have to take my original pump back out and refit (de soldering and re soldering etc etc) the one that won't run my car just to measure precisely how faulty it is knowing that I then have to swap it round yet again just so I can use the car until I get a non faulty one. I will see about sending it back, where do you suggest I buy a 255lph straight fit pump that WILL work?

Yes it is..... Should I be bypassing the fuel pump ecu or doing the 12v fuel pump mod or is it definitely a fake?

Fitted new pump as I'm going BPU, already have 3" decat, 3" catback, restrictor ring and colder plugs so thought I'd take it out and see what it's like .....drove off boost for a couple of miles to the bypass and then put my foot down for it to start spluttering and then die, I managed to roll to a safe place where I suspected it may have been a fuel issue as I was on empty and it happened going up hill but then it fired up so I trundled to the fuel station and filled up, coming back up the bypass I put my foot down only for it to splutter and die again but it fired up again on the turn of the key so I trundled home and took the pump out again to check it was ok, I changed the filter on the bottom of the pump and re soldered the wires then put it back in and took it out again....back to the bypass off boost then after putting my foot down it spluttered and stopped. I coasted to a lay by but it would not run, it would fire up and then die, eventually I managed to get in touch with someone to bring me some tools so I could take the fuel pump assy out of the tank and for them to drive me home where I refitted my original pump and then drove me back to the lay by where my car had started to attract attention but luckily it was still in one piece and after refitting the pump and sender assy in the lay by it fired up first turn of the key and now runs sweet again. Please can somebody tell me what I did wrong as I'm sure it was fitted correctly, is it the pump thats faulty? Yes it's a brand new pump. Would just like a few opinions before I contact the seller, Thanks.

My turbo's sound like that until they're warm.

Area 52?

Welcome dude, a few people have done it and those v8's do sound awesome.

Area 52 autosport....based in Mansfield, I've heard they map the emanage range, worth a call.

And they even deliver it straight through your letterbox

That's your dash temp sensor, the green 2 pin is the ECU temp sensor.

When I did mine I just took the lead off the ignitor and turned the ignition over until the oil light went out then let it rest for a few mins then did the same again then fired it up the third time and left to tickover.......this was OEM twins that had been used before but had then been sat dry for a while (a few weeks) ....ie not brand new dry turbo's.

LOL

Compression test?

Nice.

All present and correct here.

Mine's now a 1jz tt but it still gets tested as an n/a (non cat test).

In settings, paid subscriptions..... Iirc :-)