nero

We've been thrilled to be a part of your project, each time the car comes in its another evolution in its sucess.

Congratulations to EK, he's done a great job with the car and the team is top notch. I'm thrilled to just have been a part of it. Press Release below Sahkir, Bahrain - Ebrahim Kanoo ran a personal best elapsed time during Bahrain National Drag Racing Championship's Test and Tune event at the Bahrain International Circuit when his Supra stopped the clocks with a 7.839 at 292.96 kmh. The run was a full tenth better than his previous best of 7.96 which he set during the BDRC's Round 1 event three weeks ago, when Kanoo used back to back 7.96 and 7.97 elapsed times to win the event. "I am really happy that we got a good time tonight at BIC," said Kanoo. "I have put a considerable effort into my Supra and now it is not only the quickest in the Kingdom but one the quickest in all of the Middle East as well. Hopefully now we do well in this Round and get more points for the championship." Kanoo is the reigning champion for the BDRC Outlaw 6 Cylinder category with his white turbocharged and nitrous oxide injected Supra which features a MoTeC engine management system and tuning by Shane Tecklenburg of the United States. The vehicle uses a Titan Motorsports 183 cubic inch engine with a Precision Turbo Pro Mod 90 turbocharger coupled to a TH400 automatic transmission and stock supra drivetrain to a pair of 28" by 10.5" width slicks and weighs in at 3150 pounds with Kanoo on the start line. "I am so proud to be a part of this team for the past 4 seasons," said Tecklenburg. "We worked tirelessly together to get this car where it is and even though I am tuning the car remotely from the states over the internet right now, I feel like I am right there standing with the rest of the team on the starting line when they run." Kanoo and the other competitors in Round 2 of the BDRC 10/11 Championship will take to the track for qualifying on Thursday November 11, at 7:00pm Bahrain time.

Kanoo's Supra ran 7.960 @ 281.92KM/H @ BIC drag championship round 1 , oct 2010 vs f-al murbati silvia which ran 8.79 @ 226 km/h the supra ran a 60ft of 1.250 and 1/8 mile 5.1s @ 228 km/h , the Supra is runing a 3.0L motor from Titan Motorsports and tuned by Shane T , stock diff , 29.5 tires th-400 + trans brake video this video was on the same day, this was the final in out law class Kanoo Supra against r33 skyline Supra ran 7.97 @288 km/h SUPRA RAN A 60FT OF 1.35 AND 1/8 MILE WAS 5.2S @ 230KM/H this video was from qualifying ran 8.1 @ 288 km/h

You would need the 2JZ-5SPD clutch and flywheel with that combination, and also utilize your 5-speed master cylinder

I'd say 525-575bhp is reasonable. You never want to push a fuel pump to its limits, the 1 time you run out of fuel will be an expensive lesson

Could easily be the drive belt then

Drop some HRE's or Volk's on it, would look great

Power Steering noise is usually from the power steering pump, sometimes it can be the belt, but the pump is the common failure point. Often if you have to much debris go threw the system it will also cause issues with the power steering rack as well.

Is the radiator factory? if so they tend to seperate and you may need a new radiator. I usually prefer to go with aftermarket one's like Fluidyne, Koyo, etc. which are 1 piece welded together and the end tanks can not seperate.

Sure its not a hatch rattle, often this is the case and people can think its coming from the front when the windows are down

I belive the greddy intake manifold is discontinued, btw

A couple of hours on the trac control butterfly and module - basically remove the throttle body, then the parts. The trac control module/brake module another couple of hours to do that.

I don't think I'd trust that unit, It doesn't loook like its designed to flow air well.

Chris is correct with the reduction of high rev's, but in the case of the 2JZ a proper built 3.4L can go up to 9500rpm's which you will likely never use in most cars. The Stroked 2JZ also will give you better average HP across the power band and spool up much quicker (usually 900rpm) from a 3.0L to a 3.4L Chris is 100% correct, I would not suggest going over +1mm unless you have to, always best to try and stay with a smaller bore so you have stronger/thicker cylinder walls.

Yes I work at Titan, thanks for gracious compliment

Buy a cat back exhaust, it will bolt right on and fit right. Also usually most cat back's out there are the right one for the car

Yes I do, although I'm not suppose to chat about Titan to much because we are not a sponsor on here. But I do work there.

Rail mounts in a different spot - or brackets are different, so you can't just bolt 1 onto another.

Lightweight clutch will do a lot also, you can take off 50lbs with a lightweight Tilton vs the stock clutch

Lightweight wheels, tires, lug nuts Performance seats Rear seat delete kit Aftermarket coilovers - AL or Steel housing both are lighter, AL housing can be much ligther then even equivalent Steel coilovers ABS removal Trac control motor removal Trac control on teh throttle body and the motor Lightweight Exhaust - Ti options available to Lightweight Stereo system - remove factory amp, JDM amp's can be heavier then US amps even on a factory Supra. A lot of these can be done as upgrades and weight reduction, hence having a nicer daily driver and it being quicker as well.

If the flanges mate up you will be fine, the cat back will be a bit of a restriction but not a big deal on stock turbo's. You may have more issues if the flanges don't mate up if anything

You will gain some power, but for the money at BPU its not the right thing to do. Now if you plan on going single the gain is better. So if you want to just spend a little money and not all of it, this could be a worthwhile mod.

You can bore a 2JZ no issues, many go 20 over (0.020), 40 over and then most don't recomend boring. But you can go 50 over and 60 over. Stroke's you can run stock stroke at 86mm, 90mm stroke (3.2L) or 94mm (3.4L) The 3.4L motor is the most common bore/stroke is 94mm crank and 87mm piston (40 over) Big HP guys 1200+ often will use stock or 20 over piston because you can run into cylinder cracking issues. Best to stick to max displacement of 3.4L that is proven and works. You can try to go crazier, but then your doing a frankenstein build.

Does the clutch slip at all during driving or when you floor it, that's also an obvious sign the clutch is done. How many miles/km's do you have on the current clutch

People who import JDM engines would be the best start, get a full drivetrain from Japan