keef701

The one with the blanking plate on has has the traction control butterfly and mechanism removed, possibly to remove any restriction when not used anymore.

Payment sent by PayPal. Thanks.

Hi, I'll have the cam belt please if still available. Let me know how you want paying. Thanks.

Add a set on for me please, 1. RHochreuter (Black, with Billet Water Pump Cover) 2. FrankR (Black, with Billet Water Pump Cover) 3.lexmk4 (Purple please) 4.lonbhold75 (black, idler and water pump cover) 5.keef701 (Blue, and idler in blue, thanks) 6. 7.

I've got a pair of facelift cloth seats in good condition, minus seat belt clips, if you're interested. £30 collected from Southampton area?

No problem. I know how it is with couriers sometimes! Thanks.

Supraudi, your pm box is full! Has the boot blind been sent out, as I still haven't received anything yet?

The spring is/was part of the oil seal that keeps the grease in and dirt out of the bearings, so should be replaced anyway. The damage shown in the first picture should be able to be dressed out and was probably caused by a previous repair trying to beat the old inner race off. The damage appears just inside the wear pattern of the seal (the shiny ring/polish mark just below the damage in the first picture) What would concern me though is in the third picture where there is the pitting marks to the right of the picture. This is where the second half of the inner race fits. If this is worn then even if you put a new bearing on it will wear again in no time at all. How tight was the old inner race when it was removed? If it is at all slack then a new hub will be needed. Mine was similar a few years ago, but I have access to spiral weld repair shafts etc so could repair the old hub, instead of having to fork out the cost of a new hub.

Pm'd

My tailgate has a TRD spoiler fitted and the standard dampers struggle to hold the tailgate open. After numerous hits by the tailgate when reaching into the boot, I got fed up and found that the easiest way to keep the tailgate open was to very slightly bend one of the dampers. Easy to do, just open the tailgate fully and when stood by the side of the car, gently push the damper sideways. Just do gentle pushes, and keep rechecking that the tailgate shuts smoothly. Cheaper than replacing a pair of dampers! Has worked perfectly on mine now for quite a while.

Thanks, I knew that my car was in the transition between facelift with old engine and facelift with VVTI. I've got the right model of engine, but I am wondering if there is a way to find the engine number that it left the factory with. Toyota may have records to match chassis and engine numbers?

I have done a search on this but not had a lot of luck. If I know my chassis number, is there any way to find the engine number that the car originally left the factory with? As with a lot of the imports, the engine number might not be on the log book, as it is not easy to find. I can just about read my number and I am wondering if it is the original engine, or has ever been changed out. My car is a 96 facelift with a non VVTI TT engine. I know on the NZ Supra site there is a database where you can find out exactly when the car was built and what spec/colour/trim etc it left the factory with, but there is no way to find out engine numbers and build dates. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks.

Right, here is my final update on this. Got a couple of inches of fuel hose yesterday from my local motor factors, for free, fitted it to the pump and refitted the whole assembly back into the car. Refitted all the other bits I stripped off over the last few days. Reprimed the system and she started up straight away. Idle was smooth, and the power is back. Thank God!! Total cost to find fault and repair, £1.34, which was the litre of petrol I pumped into a jug. So if anyone in the future has a similar problem, and had already explored other causes, this might just help them! Thanks.

O.K, a bit of an update, following dudes advice, this afternoon I checked the canister pot on the side of the manifold, and that was clear. I swapped over to another MAP sensor, and started her up. No improvement. So I decided to disconnect the battery for ten minutes, to reset the ECU, and have a cuppa at the same time! Reconnected and started her up. Again no improvement. Whilst stood there scratching my head, I decide to bridge +B and FP again. A strange thing happened, the idle got smoother! and the revs would pick up stronger when the throttle was blipped. So now thinking that supplying the full 12v to the pump, improved the fuel flow and I could hear more fuel returning to the tank, there must be a problem with either the FPR or the pump. As I have only got a standard FPR and no pressure gauge, the next easiest check would be to have a look at the fuel pump to see if the filter was blocked or missing. 20 minutes later, I have got all the fittings off the top of the pump, and start to lift the pump hanger from the tank. As soon as I had lifted it, the possible cause of the problem was staring me in the face. The rubber fuel hose that goes between the top of the pump and the hardline in the hanger, had magically turned into something that ressembled black chewing gum!!! The braiding had blow out and the inner core had now split open. It was a miracle that it was getting any fuel at all. So I am a bit happier now, will get some fuel hose tomorrow, and start putting back together all the bits I have pulled out of the car in the last two days! I am 99% sure this is the problem (I am saving the other 1% for sods law), so thanks for everyones input and suggestions, and maybe this might help someone in the future with a similar problem. Thankyou.

O.K thanks for the advice, I will have a look at it again tomorrow. I have a spare MAP sensor I can try. Fingers crossed!!

I had another look at the car today. Got it up on some ramps, and removed the fuel filter. I made up a hose that fitted over the hardline that comes from the pump, and then bridged +B and FP again, powered up and caught the fuel in a clear jug. The one litre jug filled within about 30 seconds, so the pump is flowing quite well. I powered down the pump and had a look at the fuel I collected. There is no water visible and the fuel looked clean. I had a look at the filter, and blew through it. No problems with that, so refitted the filter and the fuel lines and restarted. Problem still there. Slightly lumpy idle, and tries to die as soon as the throttle is touched. I then had a brainwave, and thought it may be either my RLTC or Emanage, interferring with the injectors, so as both are wired into a fields harness, I quickly disconnected the harness and plugged the standard harness direct into the ECU. Started up, and problem still there. I just sounds and feels as if the engine is running out of fuel. I am now starting to run out of ideas. Would a faulty fuel dampener or the pressure regulator, cause this fault or is there anything else I am missing? O2 sensor fault maybe? Any ideas lads??

I am running a single Walbro pump. The car was running perfect until I refilled.

No, I haven't got a fuel pressure gauge. I there any other way that I can check for the correct fuel delivery rate. Can the stock FPR play up sometimes?

Bought it from the local Tesco petrol station, never had a problem before from them. I might be able to drain some and check for moisture.

Lads, I have got a problem with my Jspec TT 6 Speed, that is puzzling me. On my way home from work tonight, I had to stop and get petrol, the gauge was just above empty. So having put in about £60 of the Tesco momentum99( I have used this for a while with no problem) the car starts up as normal, I drive off and after about a 1/4 of a mile, I put my foot down out of a roundabout, and nothing, the engine loses all power. I manage to pull over and at this stage the engine is just about idling, but any throttle and it tries to die. Slowly I build up the revs to try to get it moving again, but as soon as the clutch is let out it dies. I park it up, and after a while I managed to get it towed to my mothers house who fortunately lived only about a mile a way. Now, having done a search on the forum for possible causes, I have checked the fault codes (jumped TE1 and E1) and nothing is stored. I reset and started up the engine again, and recheck for the codes, but again, nothing is stored. I have jumped B+ and FP to check the fuel pump, and I can hear it running o.k, but there is not the obvious fuel rushing sound that can be heard when this is done. I have checked all obvious hoses, small bore and intercooler hoses, and nothing appears obviously wrong. I have checked all the coil pack connectors and clips, and again, nothing appears wrong. I am now starting to think either the petrol is bad(water contamination?) or when it was low on fuel I have disturbed dirt or something in the system, and it has blocked something. The fuel filter is only about 300 miles old, so could it have blocked up that quickly? The engine will still start, and idles at about 650rpm, but as soon as you touch the throttle, there is no power. Has anybody got any other ideas of things that I can check? I will probably jack the car up tomorrow and have a look at the filter, and drain some fuel to see if its any good. Up till now the car has never missed a beat, so this has really taken me by surprise!

Hi, the throttle body inlet at the front is 71mm (2.8") and narrows down to 65mm (approx 2.55") at the butterfly. Hope this help.

Went to New Zealand a couple of years ago, they have loads of Japanese import cars, but in the three weeks I was there, I only saw about 3 Supras! Skylines seem to be more common though, must have seen dozens of them. They are big on the Fords and Holdens V8's, but I understand there is a big import car following, which normally outperform most of the V8's. New Zealand is a petrol heads country, they love their cars. The roads are good and the scenery is stunning, but the speed limits are lower than ours.

Hi, I've got an old K reg (1992) 1.9D Citroen ZX advantage in White, if anyone is interested? No Tax or MOT, but had both when I took it off the road end of last year! Good condition for year, approx 106k miles. All electric bits work i.e windows, sunroof etc. Bad points, It's French! No tax or MOT obviously! Currently SORNED, battery is flat, but starts and runs fine when jumped. Some minor chips in windscreen but passed last MOT with them. Back brakes drag a little, but I suspect its handbrake return mechanism faulty. Tyres o.k but may need new soonish. Minor dent in front of bonnet. Parcel shelf has cutouts for speakers, but none fitted.Minor oil leaks from engine, but nothing serious. Good points, Cheap runabout, nearly 50mpg, interior (cloth) good condition for year. Power steering. Numerous receipts and history of parts fitted. Exhaust in very good condition, hardly any rust underneath (amazing for a French car) I only want to get rid off it to make room on my front drive for the Supra. It would be a shame to scrap a good little runner, that maybe of some use to someone. Would happily accept £80 for it. Collection only, obviously, before anyone asks if I will post it! Photos to follow, when it gets light enough to take some. Collection from the Southampton area. Thanks.

Most items are still up for sale. Would accept £80 for the set of coilovers, collected, or arrange own courier. Will edit first post, for prices.

Hi, I am looking to buy a Garrett GT3582R with an .82 Turbine housing with T4 inlet flange. My question is, would it be worth ordering one with a ported shroud compressor housing or not, for the sake of about an extra £65? I know the ported shroud is to help reduce surge, but would it be necessary on a .82 housing when it is spooling up a little later than say a .63? The turbo is going to mounted on a cast manifold, so it may spool up a little quicker than a tubular mounted version. This may make a difference, but I am not sure. Also has anybody had any experience with ordering parts through GT3TURBO.com, as they have this turbo up for about £995, or does anybody have any recommendations to buy one from. Thanks.