keef701

The one with the blanking plate on has has the traction control butterfly and mechanism removed, possibly to remove any restriction when not used anymore.

Payment sent by PayPal. Thanks.

Hi, I'll have the cam belt please if still available. Let me know how you want paying. Thanks.

Add a set on for me please, 1. RHochreuter (Black, with Billet Water Pump Cover) 2. FrankR (Black, with Billet Water Pump Cover) 3.lexmk4 (Purple please) 4.lonbhold75 (black, idler and water pump cover) 5.keef701 (Blue, and idler in blue, thanks) 6. 7.

I've got a pair of facelift cloth seats in good condition, minus seat belt clips, if you're interested. £30 collected from Southampton area?

No problem. I know how it is with couriers sometimes! Thanks.

Supraudi, your pm box is full! Has the boot blind been sent out, as I still haven't received anything yet?

The spring is/was part of the oil seal that keeps the grease in and dirt out of the bearings, so should be replaced anyway. The damage shown in the first picture should be able to be dressed out and was probably caused by a previous repair trying to beat the old inner race off. The damage appears just inside the wear pattern of the seal (the shiny ring/polish mark just below the damage in the first picture) What would concern me though is in the third picture where there is the pitting marks to the right of the picture. This is where the second half of the inner race fits. If this is worn then even if you put a new bearing on it will wear again in no time at all. How tight was the old inner race when it was removed? If it is at all slack then a new hub will be needed. Mine was similar a few years ago, but I have access to spiral weld repair shafts etc so could repair the old hub, instead of having to fork out the cost of a new hub.

Pm'd

My tailgate has a TRD spoiler fitted and the standard dampers struggle to hold the tailgate open. After numerous hits by the tailgate when reaching into the boot, I got fed up and found that the easiest way to keep the tailgate open was to very slightly bend one of the dampers. Easy to do, just open the tailgate fully and when stood by the side of the car, gently push the damper sideways. Just do gentle pushes, and keep rechecking that the tailgate shuts smoothly. Cheaper than replacing a pair of dampers! Has worked perfectly on mine now for quite a while.

Thanks, I knew that my car was in the transition between facelift with old engine and facelift with VVTI. I've got the right model of engine, but I am wondering if there is a way to find the engine number that it left the factory with. Toyota may have records to match chassis and engine numbers?

I have done a search on this but not had a lot of luck. If I know my chassis number, is there any way to find the engine number that the car originally left the factory with? As with a lot of the imports, the engine number might not be on the log book, as it is not easy to find. I can just about read my number and I am wondering if it is the original engine, or has ever been changed out. My car is a 96 facelift with a non VVTI TT engine. I know on the NZ Supra site there is a database where you can find out exactly when the car was built and what spec/colour/trim etc it left the factory with, but there is no way to find out engine numbers and build dates. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks.

Right, here is my final update on this. Got a couple of inches of fuel hose yesterday from my local motor factors, for free, fitted it to the pump and refitted the whole assembly back into the car. Refitted all the other bits I stripped off over the last few days. Reprimed the system and she started up straight away. Idle was smooth, and the power is back. Thank God!! Total cost to find fault and repair, £1.34, which was the litre of petrol I pumped into a jug. So if anyone in the future has a similar problem, and had already explored other causes, this might just help them! Thanks.

O.K, a bit of an update, following dudes advice, this afternoon I checked the canister pot on the side of the manifold, and that was clear. I swapped over to another MAP sensor, and started her up. No improvement. So I decided to disconnect the battery for ten minutes, to reset the ECU, and have a cuppa at the same time! Reconnected and started her up. Again no improvement. Whilst stood there scratching my head, I decide to bridge +B and FP again. A strange thing happened, the idle got smoother! and the revs would pick up stronger when the throttle was blipped. So now thinking that supplying the full 12v to the pump, improved the fuel flow and I could hear more fuel returning to the tank, there must be a problem with either the FPR or the pump. As I have only got a standard FPR and no pressure gauge, the next easiest check would be to have a look at the fuel pump to see if the filter was blocked or missing. 20 minutes later, I have got all the fittings off the top of the pump, and start to lift the pump hanger from the tank. As soon as I had lifted it, the possible cause of the problem was staring me in the face. The rubber fuel hose that goes between the top of the pump and the hardline in the hanger, had magically turned into something that ressembled black chewing gum!!! The braiding had blow out and the inner core had now split open. It was a miracle that it was getting any fuel at all. So I am a bit happier now, will get some fuel hose tomorrow, and start putting back together all the bits I have pulled out of the car in the last two days! I am 99% sure this is the problem (I am saving the other 1% for sods law), so thanks for everyones input and suggestions, and maybe this might help someone in the future with a similar problem. Thankyou.

O.K thanks for the advice, I will have a look at it again tomorrow. I have a spare MAP sensor I can try. Fingers crossed!!