David P

This subject has been done to death but the old wives tale tellers are still at it.

From this known datum, then return to recommended service-schedules &/or ATF temperature. Fluid level is extremely important, car should be on level ground, check level in "N" with engine running after first selecting each gear with the stick. Tip: Fluid should be translucent & dark cherry red. Black ATF with burnt smell is very bad news. Tip: Have a good look at the marks on the dipstick so to understand what it is telling you. Tip: After topping up it will take 10 minutes for the tube to drain and show a clear reading on dipstick. Tip: If you are in a hurry, you may pick up the true level on the top of the tube side of the stick, the clue is, a lower level reading. Tip: Always check the level again later. Should the transmission fluid be poorly maintained and require a full flush?

All your secrets are coming out now.

Excuse my curiosity, but why do you have to wait and walk to work until Friday, before you can drive it around the block and see if it is mended?

I'll give you that one. Whatever it is, is in the above posts, just work your way through the list. Shiny and broken is not too good.

That is the first you have mentioned re. fitting an oil cooler, how many more secret ways might this be self inflicted? Check that the flow and return hoses are not trapped or kinked.

Regardless of imagination, the dipstick has the final decision in this simple matter! Now give it a go and see if it is mended, you might save yourself a lot of walking.

More secrets. One litre below level is enough to stop it working properly. How much fluid did it take to top up?

Auto box problems are mostly self inflicted by poor maintenance, electrickery dickery and/or throttle-body tinkerings.

The dipstick has both cold and hot level marks. The engine coolant temp gauge will be measure enough.

Around the block if you like, around the county if you like Russian roulette, at least check the dipstick!

If the ATF is not up to correct level that could be the problem. The TPS requires accurate setting or it could be causing the problem. Neither of the above will show a fault code. You have found the Japanese Workshop Manual which has the correct settings, the English version Manual has incorrect values. Search around and you'll find the English WS Manual version for instruction and use the Jap Manual values. Stick a feeler gauge of given size under an un-tampered with throttle stop and check for continuity on/off position between the top two terminals on TPS and nip up the screws. If you have dicked with the throttle stop too, you will have lost the datum point and be in the land of guess measurey.

Without any error codes showing, it's the likeliest problem, assuming that the TPS sensor is adjusted correctly?

That's it, I've just posted up the same link.

This can be caused by a failing odo, the pink wire mod should fix that? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?72588-Code-42-Fix&highlight=pink+wire+mod

You're a worrying man when you have a spanner in your hand.

Did you forget to read the second sentence of my post?

It appears that you have mended everything that wasn't broken, fitted a radiator that needs to be removed and have an air lock in the cooling system. Some say, jacking up the front will clear it.

Correct Maintenance of Automatic Transmission Fluid 15k miles / 1 year - Schedule 1: ATF partial-change. Drain transmission sump & refill via dipstick-tube, around 2 litres. (A650E sump, 3 litres) 30k miles / 2 years - Schedule 2: Clean sump & magnets, re-torque v.b bolts, fit new strainer & ATF partial-change. After neglect/abuse - Schedule 3: Clean sump & magnets, re-torque v.b bolts, clean solenoids, fit new strainer & ATF full-flush. 9/10 Supra automatic transmissions have been ignored & abused by 's. 9/10 Supra automatic transmissions have not been & are not serviced correctly. When buying an automatic Supra, unless it has an official & correct service-record for the transmission. Non - 's clean the sump & magnets, re-torque v.b bolts, clean solenoids, fit new strainer & full-flush with recommended ATF.

The Lexus colour "Desert Sage Metallic 6U3" is a lot greener.

No less than 25 years old I believe is the rule? Which means early registered Supra's will be U.S. legal next year, a year in the shed for a buyer to tinker with it first is no bad thing.

Some trendy looking Yank icons there Barney, will you be taking early registered Supra's as trade ins to send back?

You'll be wanting a Scooby scoop next?

If you run T.T. pistons they'll need the oil squirters, if you run forged pistons they're not needed. If you do run oil squirters, the T.T. oil pump will be fine, if you don't run oil squirters, use N/A VVTI oil pump which will give the correct oil pressure and has same crank trigger option as T.T.

If he'd included the words "rare item", he might have got away with it.