David P

:yahoo: Breaking News :yahoo: After many years of informing peeps so............... Q Big-Roll on Drums................... Delboy52 is about to become the first man in the World brave enough to become a non - by running a temp-gauge from the Supra OE ECU ATF temp-sensor! The Temp Gauge Mod is born.

Excuse me, I had abbreviated nailing down the bonnet, in with nailing on the front properly.

If they're J spec brakes I can see peeping from behind your 19"? wheels, you might feel a lot happier at +3 digits with some better brakes? As long as the suspension components are all in good working order with correct geometry settings, with round wheels and tyres that are rated to a sufficient speed number and whatever front that is on it, is nailed on properly, your Supra would be "cumfy at speed", even if you weren't. And even comfier with stock wheels, tyres and ride height.

I can't see the fascination with these seats, they are too narrow for me and I have difficulty getting out of them without squidging my plumbs on the sticky up hard topped bolster.

Yes. With a full set of T.T. transmission components it's a mix & match plug & play fit to N/A, but the box will need converting into a Hybrid transmission with an N/A valve body, loom and line feed pressure cable to become compatible with GE electronics. During the conversion I also shim up the actuators to their optimum performance and speed up gear changes and with additional ATF cooling your Supra should then be future proofed for up to 600ftlb, see here. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?groupid=57

Good job you didn't expect him to spell Nurburgering.

Every diff has one and most peeps throw it away sooner than get their hands dirty.

Not wishing you the worst scenario, but if it has died, please don't bin the prop flange, that's a wanted component and worth £25 to you.

Available in his & hers too.

A nice clean automatic transmission, that's a pleasant change. Are 2 of the crank bolts missing?

I'll re-word my question. What and where is s.a.s. and how much did it cost? (By p.m. if you prefer) Thank you

I really like the look of that manifold, could you please tell me more about it? And/or, first dibs on it please when you upgrade the engine or fit a turbo.

Be a good idea to upgrade the ignition system before you go for more power, this will provide a better spark and allow the fine control that will be required. T.T. oil-pump with an N/A pressure relief valve spring in it and you can then use T.T. crank sensor and for the cam signal swap that nasty distributor for an MA70 CPS, you'll have more room for turbo goodness and can treat it to a set of coil packs. If you prefer to spend money you could use a new N/A VVTi oil pump. Then make your decision about the ECU. P.S. do you know the exact compression ratio you have with that T.T. piston N/A gasket combo, I guesstimate it at around 9.0:1, yet would like to know the real figure? Thank you. P.P.S. Maybe there's some coil packs still available amongst this little lot? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=136&do=discuss P.P.P.S. How are you doing on those 40 profile tyres?

That's the one, the closest edge of shoulder to the caliper is now square instead of round, just like Bernard Cribbins would like it. No strength to worry about was lost from the socket, yet this allowed for more strength to remain in the caliper mount. My observation from actually having done this job, is that this is the weakest link in the chain for this brake conversion.

So you got me into trouble for nothing? Thanks for that. After Mike has nice new shiny Kunifer brake pipes to polish, the next weakest link in the chain would be the caliper mounts, particularly the drivers side. This casting wasn't as user friendly as the other and I chose to remove a little steel from a bulging shoulder of the ball joint taper socket, I think? In preference to taking any more off the caliper. This is without doubt the next weakest link, however, because of my alternative fetling, Mike's weakest link will be stronger than others that have been done. Regardless, no-one seems the slightest bit bothered about the iffy-est ingredient of this conversion at all?

A test rig would test the modified caliper mounts, that are apparently okay for everyone else who has this conversion. However, the fluid pressure from testing on a test rig would be no more than Mike could do himself on his gay drive.

You could get a ready made bespoke Kunifer set from here. http://www.canleyclassics.com/brake-pipe-kits/ Or buy a brake pipe flaring tool kit and make them up.

Thank you for the thank you Mike. Because I've been under your Supra more than most, I hope that I am allowed to make a positive and sensible input to your thread. Whilst stationary with hand brake on and engine running, stand on the brake pedal as hard as you can, with both feet if you like and put your back into it. That will test them to the maximum pressure that the master cylinder could ever go to and which would be at least twice the pressure that you will ever give them whilst braking in the real World and if/when the calipers don't explode, they will have passed the test. In my opinion, the weakest link(s) currently in your braking system are the hard-line brake pipes at the 4 corners, as I advised you at the time these were what an MOT station would classify as an advisory and I cleaned them up with a little wire brush and blathered them in Copperslip, they certainly won't be any worse than they were, yet certainly not any better either. I know they're not pretty and shiny and/or on display and are not made of homo carbon sexual fibres and don't even have a single LED, yet I suggest that you fit some new ones before giving it my test.

I sometimes wonder if GReddy likes being called Greedy?

Well done, that's novel, it makes a pleasant change to anal's ripping out ABS because they think it's not pretty.

Until you have looked at it and seen it and know what you're looking for, you will be pi$$ing into the wind.

I'm afraid that my phsycic abilities don't stretch to knowing what you have seen on ebay? The right one will fit and the wrong ones won't.

I now have a UK mph speedometer, but back in the days when it had a converter, I found that swapping one wire changed it from recording in miles or kilometres. I cannot remember what colour or where, just mix them about until it happens? I have left mine in kilometers so there's no argy bargy by old wives about how many of thingy's it has done.