David P

I have found the information I seek, and just in case someone else might find this useful. The O.E.M. M.A.P. sensor is attactched to the bulkhead and connected to the inlet manifold by a short length of tube. It is better to use the A.E.M. M.A.P. sensor with an A.E.M. E.C.U.

Thank's for the speedhunters link

Doing that too

I am fitting an A.E.M. 30-1100 E.C.U. to my ‘stage 1½’ modified Japanese import N/A Supra. Japanese import N/A’s do not have M.A.F, but utilise M.A.P, the same system as used on the T.T, so this unit should be plug & play. My manual is for U.K. spec and does not show the location of the M.A.P. sensor(s) Could you please give me a link to this information? Second question; Are A.E.M. M.A.P. sensors better for this application than O.E.M? Thank you David

Bump I really want to find one of these things

Thank you both

Looking for an O.E.M. mph kph speedo face please

I have thoroughly researched this, and there are divided opinions, however, it is proven that for an N/A Supra, 2 ½” is best for torque and 3” is best for horse power, with 2 ¾” being a happy medium. Ideally you need 2 1/2" for low revs and cruise, and 3" for the track. So I have designed and built a system that lets you 'have your cake and eat it too'! Autobahn88 exhaust manifold, thermal wrapped. Blitz 3" midpipe, thermal wrapped. 3" H.K.S. exhaust system. Magnaflow 200 core racing cat immediately after flange. Wideband sensor fitted into front of cat. 2 X Morosso 94501 spiral racing mufflers, 1 immediately after cat, and the other just before the back box. (1 would be sufficient for most, but I drive long distances and wanted peace and quiet on cruise) Apexi Integration 155-A025 spring loaded tail silencer at back. The manifold, midpipe, cat, spriral mufflers and back box are all 3" bore for horse power, and the spring loaded tail pipe restricts the gasses at low revs and cruise, but opens up under load. Voila!

Just replace the mast. £24 or thereabouts O.E.M. Toyota

Autobahn 88 + 3" mid pipe + catback 3" system. Fit a 3" 200 core racing cat at the front of catback, and 1 or 2 Morosso spiral mufflers in the line and an Apexi spring loaded tail silencer. You will have a quiet cruise, back pressure for torque, and it lets both the horses and the noise out when you boot it. Voila

H.K.S. made a D.L.I. complete with a plug and play harness for the N/A/ too until last week, but this is now a discontinued item, looking to find a used one.

Looking for an H.K.S. Twin Power Ignition Amplifier for 1993-96 Supra Non-Turbo (HK 43001-AK004 mk4na) and Twin Power Installation Harness for 1993-96 Supra Non-Turbo (HK 4399-ST002) please. David

Mine is N/A, less heat to get rid of. Had electric fans on all cars for last 30 years, no probs. They only come on when you are stuck in traffic, when rolling, then flow of air through the grill is sufficient. But this is getting off topic. Is there an accessory ignition feed lurking somewhere under the bonnet? Anybody!

I have fitted a thermostat, of course, and now want to find a convenient ignition feed under the bonnet. This will prevent the fans from running after the engine is turned off but still hot, and save me having to tear out the dash or stand on my head for an hour to get at the fuse board in the drivers footwell. I have had a probe about, but cannot find an obvious source.

I am fitting electric fans, is there a convenient ignition feed under the bonnet I can use to trigger the relay?

One detail to confirm for others. Would this shortcut prevent the 'open door' warning light for the drivers door or even both doors, bonnet and hatch from functioning.

I grew impatient and took great pleasure 'extracting' her with a pair of pliers. Sorted and all back together. But wish I have learnt the easy way first Thank's anyway David

I have taken it upon myself to get rid of the annoying bleeps and buzzes in my 95 Jap spec n/a. The reversing bleeper was easy enough, just a small devive clipped onto the cicuit board behind the rev counter. However, the annoying 'Avon lady' ding dong to tell you the key is in the ignition has turned into a nightmare of a job. After an hour or two of probing around to actually source this annoying sound, it was found to be coming from behind the fuse box in the drivers footwell. several hours of standing on my head keyhole surgery, and four swtiches in the back of my hand later, I have managed to remove the unit. However, it is not just a bell, it is inside a green box labelled relay integration 82641-20190 068900-1550 12v and is an integral part of the curcuit board. I am now unsure what to do with it? Do I just crunch it with the pliers and leave it there, or is there a more professional way to shut this £uc*!ng thing up? Help

HKS air filter. +5bhp Autobahn no cat exhaust manifold with 3" exit. +20bhp 3" decat front pipe with Magnaflow 200 cell 3" bore cat spliced in. +5bhp HKS 3" catback exhaust. +10bhp ECU remap. +15bhp These wishfull sums are ficticious then?

Mmm, That's a dissapointingly small number, I was guessing it would give me around 50 horses more!

Hello, I am a "Newbe". I have a 1995 N/A mk 1V and planning the following modifications. HKS air filter. Autobahn exhaust manifold with 3" exit. 3" decat front pipe with Magnaflow 200 cell 3" bore cat spliced in. HKS 3" catback exhaust. ECU remap. Could any please tell me what bhp torque gains are to be expected from thse mods? Thank you David