David P

Wez, Yes exactly, but in the absence of advice worked that out myself. No prob though, the new sensors and wiring are in situ waiting for the big day. Jamie, I have been frugally collecting these parts over time at the right price, many of them used, several from on here, and Supraforum, and Fleabay and Keron. The only items remaining on my list to get, are an engine oil cooler kit and a pair of TRD anti roll bars.

Parasitic loss. I have freed up as much power as possible by reducing the power drain where I can. Meziere water pump, this was a real pain in the butt to fit. I had checked the OEM gasket, but the Toyota label on the plastic bag was covering a few of the bolt holes. By the time I found out, the engine was stripped, so re-engineered the thing to fit. Mishimota shroud and twin electric fans. Unorthodox Racing 20% underdrive crank pulley and ali accessory pulleys. The jury is still out re. the crank pulley, but not going back to OEM, because had to heat the crank bolt to get it out, there are several reports of OEM pulleys throwing themselves apart and don't fancy that. Maybe will change to an after market dampened pulley, looking into that one. TTC idler pulley. This item runs on the 'wonk' and has been replaced by the manufacturer. Will change it when I take off the front end to fit Active spoiler, oil coolers rad etc. Likewise with the alternator pulley, cant undo the nut without a hammer gun, will change too when rad is out, will have room for the gun then . Unorthodox Adjustable Cam Pulleys. At this time not planning to change the cams, that would be around £1000 for the privalige to use more fuel and loose some bottom end, so playing with retiming the stock cams. U.R. claim around 10bhp gain, yet have read reports that claim up to 20? As much as we all love our Toyota's, they are still a production vehicle and built to a price and schedule. Turbo'd motors can 'simply' be turned up to gain power, and these inneficiencies are not so noticable, however, normally aspirated engines are responsive to these attentions to detail, that's why it is called engine 'tuning'. Each and every one of these modifications are without doubt an improvement on the production items, and they all add up. Here is a list that is a combination of manufacturers claims and wishfull guesses, there are some that are a bit 'tea from China' but without doubt I have so far gained X amount of power from somewhere, and I can assure you that I am even more interested than you to put a number in the box. This list is not a claim, but merely a pointer as to where some of this gained efficiency and power could be coming from. The magic number at the bottom is without doubt greater than reallity, but provides some numbers to debate. It would be great to fit these items one at a time and in different orders and combinations and to dyno it each and every time, but that is not possible. Max air box 3 K&N 3 Induction plenum 3 Flowed manifold 1 X manifold 18 Decat pipe 5 Exhaust system 10 Pulleys and idler 5 Electric fans and pump 13 Cam gears 10 Sensors 3 AEM ECU 10 Nology leads 10 HKS Twin power 2 MSD Blaster 11 coil 2 Insulations & ventilation 2 Iridium plugs 2 Fuel regulator 3 Ring earth 5 Total 119 Without doubt, the car is now very different to drive, when motorway cruising at 70mph the throttle is only depressed around 1/8th" and without cruise control it is quite difficult to maintain. Because of this I cannot drive motorways in trainers and wear my army boots which just stay where you plonk them without having to flex my ankle. I hope that this thesis has answered a few of your questions.

That's 1 of the reasons why I am fitting a SSV4 ECU to control the trans, then the AEM ECU won't even have to think about it.

TR, I did not mean to offend, if you hadn't noticed, I have had to be very tolerant of comments made to me on here, am I the only one not allowed a sense of humour? I am pressing buttons here as fast as I can to try and answer questions, I will come back and answer more when done. Just trying to keep the info together so it is not lost over a spread of pages. Thank you

Ignition. HKS earth kit. The difference these simple earth wires make to the engine is quite amazing, starts at a touch, rock steady tickover, better throttle response and even stops quicker too, the engine just sounds and feels 'stronger', I was amazed. HKS Twin Power distributer version, the better the spark the better. MSD Blaster SVC II coil. this is the only uprated coil that I could find that was compatible with the Toyota ohms. Stronger spark again. Nology Hot Wires, stronger spark again. NGK Iridium plugs, better spark again. Which is better and best at what I don't know, but I have thrown everything at it to max the best possible spark. Timing, I honestly don't know, today I was expecting the Draper strobe to arrive, but you can se the state of the roads here in the Supra shot above. At this time it has been set by ear and experience. I have been playing these games for 38 years remember. However, I am looking forwards to giving this a number. However, the Toyota spec is rather 'loose' at 8 to 12o before TDC! Short on snaps of these because only went on a day or 3 ago, and not going out there to take pics today.

Jamie, I am limited to where I can go to have it set up, because it is an auto remember. But interested to see what I can do with the Supra stick VV4. http://www.latentsolutions.com/suprastickuv.html

Wez, The new position of the AIT gives a truer reading, and does not interfere with the air flow. At this time I have gone back to the OEM, because the AEM AIT was causing it to run way to lean. Likewise with the MAP sensor, the AEM caused it to be way too rich. These will be reconnected on AEM and 'roller day'.

Exhaust. I have used an Autobahn88 manifold, what a F job, it didn’t line up with either the ports or the studs, and took me a day to re-engineer it to fit. This is thermal wrapped because hot gasses evacuate more efficiently and it keeps some heat out from under the bonnet. There is an AEM EGT sensor in the Y, and the wires are ready to connect to the AEM ECU when installed. The OEM sensor is still connected to the loom and tucked behind the radio. I admit that I haven’t learned what this OEM sensor was actually reading and purpose served, and would be pleased for someone to inform me? This is also heat shielded to keep as much radiated heat as possible away from the throttle body and intake plenum. Nevertheless, I plan to add a second layer of wrap, and to extend the shield fore and aft. This ends up exiting at 3”, and is connected to a 3” Bltiz decat midpipe. This is also thermal wrapped to keep the gasses moving and hot, because the cat is positioned at the front of the cat back system. The cat is a 200 core competition item, which is more efficient than the pair of standard 400’s, yet keeps me emissions street legal. There is an AEM UEGO wideband sensor fitted into the front of this, which gives me a useful gauge and is ready to be connected into the ECU. The exhaust system is an HKS silent power, however, on an N/A, silent it was not, It was so loud my fillings were in danger of falling out. J To rectify this without reducing flow, I incorporated 2 Morroso racing spiral mufflers. These I recommend highly to anyone wishing to reduce their pipe noise, each one knocks off 7 db. After the HKS resonator, the system ends with an Apexi spring loaded tail silencer. This is designed to knock off 7db for track day cars on route to track. However, in this application it serves another purpose too. It is proven that N/A’s produce the best bottom end torque with a 2.5” system, and the most hp with a 3” system and usually end up compromising with a 2.75” However, with this system the valve stays closed at low revs, giving the bottom end power, yet opens up when under load and lets the horses out. A bit like having your cake, and eating it too.

T.R. S.T.F.U. and let me finish before you start throwing well practiced short sharp negatives.

The throttle body is taper reamed from inlet to just short of the butterfly to ram the air, and the rear side gasket matched to the Y section. The water heating hose has been isolated with a gas tap, this keeps the body cooler, yet leaves the option to open it up should it freeze one cold morning, and the centre section of the rockers is insulated using a piece of the under bonnet mat removed when fitting the snorkel, wrapped in the silver tape to keep heat away from same. The plug covers have been vented to prevent a heat build up damaging the H.T. leads and a U.K. bonnet scoop fitted with a modified snorkel to direct cold air onto the throttle body and inlet manifold. The Y branch is gasket matched, re-profiled inside to straighten out the bends a little and given a good rounding up and rough polish, with the AIT sensor re-positioned in the vacuum eddy out of the air flow. The 2 to 6 knuckle has been gasket matched at both ends, and given a re-profile inside including straightening out the inneficient air feed to cylinders 1 and 6. I have chosen to keep to the over the engine system, because this longer draw gives more torque than changing to a stubby crossflow. Although there is still room for improvement, and at some time in the future, would like to build a completely new system if I could find someone locally who could weld aluminium. I plan to increase the ventilation further to the fuel rail and under the knuckle section, and also the knuckle face. The cooler these surfaces are kept, the cooler the inducted air.

Forgot to press 'upload'

Efficiency, efficiency, efficiency and effeciency. 1. Let as much cold air in as I can. 2. Burn as much of it as I can. 3. Reduce as much parasitic drain as I can. 4. Let it out as best I can. 5. Reduce the weight. (haven't gone there, I like my creature comforts) Tuning a normally aspirated engine is a matter of attention to detail, all of the little gains add up and compliment each other. I have focussed on 1 to 4, each as a seperate project, and maxed them one at a time. The MaxAir box was the most efficient system I could find, it is designed for the T.T, not the N/A, so needed re-engineering a little to suit. The position of the filter has been changed, and the box is mounted further forwards and taylored to be a perfect fit. I chose to use a 3" filter because that is the size of the throttle body aperture and the K&N Extreme filter is the most efficient filter available in that size. The box is insulated to keep the cold air cold, and the intake over the rad is insulated for the same reason. I have used bubble wrap, and covered it with heating engineers siver tape, it sticks like sh!t to a blanket and the adhesive is for the correct heat range. All I could find available for an induction system, were shiny and poor efforts, so made one to my own spec. Utilizing silicone hoses, a 3" to 4" 90o bend, a 4" to 4" 45o bend and a 4" to 3" 45o bend. Cut 2" off the filter side of the centre section, and using a slip of 4" ali pipe as a temporary internal support, bonded the pieces together with a special silicone adhesive, then over wrapped the joins with silicone hose repair tape, applied 4" heat shrink over the top, then removed the ali slips from the inside. The 2" piece was then cut into 2 1" pieces and bonded onto the front of the 'slug', with a piece of 3" ali bonded into the end, gives a simple yet efficient mounting for both filter and box. The whole thing is then bubble wrapped, bound with the boiler tape and mounted with a couple of Turbo hose clamps. This system baloons to 4" internal smooth bore and gives a noticable increase in the bottom end torque.

At last............ some sensible questions. I had planned to fit the Torsen today, but I am verging on 'man flu' and don't fancy laying under the car in the snow, yet without the LSD it wouldn't even get out of the street. I am 'grounded' so might aswell try and explain. I have been modifying engines for the last 38 years, yet admit that this is my first go at a Supra. Information on how to 'gee up' N/A engines is thin on the ground, so I have relied my past experience to lead me. The T.T. however, has been modded extensively, and provides a selection of both new and used compatible parts that can be encorporated. I will go through each section at a time, and post some snaps that many are to lazy to look at, even though there is a link below. (I think the snow improves the rear body line)

Neil & Ice, Thank you for a positive post, they are as rare as rocking horse shit on here. Many Not Applicable members p.m. and/or Email in preference to posting, because they too are sick of the loud minority of depressive Tiny Todger and Need Another Todger members. Although I must admit, your user title is a little ‘worrying’. Neil-NA "Anal...its not for pussys" Club Member This negative Supra aura appears to be unique to the site, and I am not alone in the belief that this community is in dire need of a new ‘Sheriff’, or a group buy for Supercharged Prozac. I will leave the ‘Sado’s' to prattle amongst themselves for a while, whilst I get on with more positive activities, and should I not be excluded for having a brain that fires on all cylinders. When the job is jobbed, I will post the achieved figures. However, I can guarantee that regardless the evidence given, it will fuel mostly : further negativity.

I tire of blatant ignorance. I have posted the fuel receipts that show from where to where, including departure and arrival times and fuel used. Will someone please turn on their brain and independently confirm the distance and crunch the numbers, instead of closing their eyes and sticking their head up their arse. I am going for a pint, I shall decide wether to bother to tolerate such determined blind ignorance later, maybe it is simpler to just ban me for being original enough to do what no-one has managed to do before. Einstein must be turning in his grave. :blink::blink:

m, The N/A (and their owners ) are the 'Cinderella' models, and have been mostly overlooked in favour of; MUST HAVE A BIGGER AND BIGGER AND EVEN BIGGERER TURBO OR TWO.:blink: Undoubtably, this is the route for maximum power, however, the route I have taken gives more than sufficient power for entertaining road use, is more reliable by far, is frugal enough to be a daily driver, the insurance is half the price and the purchase and running costs less than half. I prefer to drive my Supra every day, when compared to driving a 'scabby' eco runabout and only enjoying my Supra at the weekend. If I could afford it, I would also have a monster turbo'd 1000bhp 6 speed manual to scare the congregation on Sundays. But even if I could, there is not enough room in the street for the one I have now, let alone another.

Please excuse me, it's not I, but 'you' who are missing the point. Should you take notice of my modifications, you will see that all I have done is to focus on making the engine more efficient. As I have said many times before, when driven like a granny, it gives more mpg, however, press the load pedal and it goes similar to a stock Jap TT. Here are the fuel receipts, that include departure and arrival times. Route taken; A14, M11, M25, M20. Check the miles on Google and crunch the numbers yourselves.

Thorin, Kettering A14 BP services, to Maidstone services junction 8 M20. Check it out and let me know. I am not cheating.

m, Read my signature and/or my car profile. The AEM is not in yet.

Ian, With pleasure. As soon as I have completed the engine mods and installed the more efficient 5 speed flappy paddle controlled gearbox, we can go on a test trundle at your expense. Although I hope you are better company in person than on here, or you might have a very long walk home.

I have reconnected the ring earth for the sensors which has cured the flashing overdrive light, and a multitude of other minor issues and the engine is back on song at last. Now that the engine is running properly, and I have been on the first run for a while, as requested, I have kept a careful note of the statistics. Brimmed the tank with 95 ron, drove exactly 126.1 motorway miles at a steady 75 to 80mph, then brimmed the tank again, 14.77 litres used. 14.77 x 0.219969157 = 3.24894435 gallons 126.1 ./. 3.24894435 = 38.8126069 mpg Current modifications as shown in present signature, with inlet cam set at 0o, and exhaust set at -1o. Temp +3oC, weather raining, wipers and dipped headlights on and carrying around 200 kg of Supra parts. Including a set of coilovers in the back and a diff in the passenger footwell. I expect to better 40mpg for motorway cruising when finished, yet suspect that without the added weight and the wet conditions, I already have. The return journey was stop start traffic, diversions and 3 tunnels to roar through in second gear and lots of fun with the 'X' amount of horses. :) No refueling on return. If that is not proof enough, you will have to come for a trundle some day and witness it yourselves.

Minus the expletives, my thoughts exactly, but did not find out untill the engine was stripped down. I had checked the gasket before I started, but the offending holes were behind the label on the Toyota plastic bag. Toooo much work and trouble to send it back, so re-engineered it to fit.

Bought most of my bits from U.S. because half the U.K. prices. Only problem was with the Meziere water pump, 4 of the bolt holes were in the wrong place.

Matt, Alternatively, you could just weld in a Morroso spiral muffler. There is room to get 3 into the system, you wouldn't know it was even running then. There is a snap in 'my car', just click on the link in my signature. David

If it is 20% underdrive, use a Gates K060747. If standard size, use standard belt.