David P

Has anyone else tried the Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's?

The SSV4 ECU arrived today Looks like this electrickery will have me scratching my bald patch http://www.latentsolutions.com/SSv4.6.pdf

All the answers can be found here. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

The MR2 Mk3, or a later Celica model airbag would do it, that's what I used to make mine. They look like this.

-6AN is 'Yankism' for 9/16" UNF, using these numbers, you can get them locally.

I have 9.5J 18 rear, and believe me, the max tyre size poss is 285 35 18, which also gives the perfect RR. But I wanted Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's and they only come in either 275 or 295. I tried the 295's, but they 'balloon up' and increase the RR by over 10% because they are 1 size too large. Made the car look like a drag racer. The 275's have a RR of .25% less I think? Check the bible. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html I used a disc cutter to trim back the lip on the rear arches to half way through the spot welds. Re-painted the lips and waxoiled behind. This sounds viscous, but is no big deal. Takes about 5 mins each side to trim, and about the same time to repaint. There is now plenty of room and no fouling issues. But this is dependent on the offset of the wheel. Without getting my tape measure out and laying in the snow, I can't remember what my wheels offset are.

Have you tried using fully synthetic trans fluid?

Once I had sourced the components, it took about 10 mins to assemble and fit Tiptronic Wheel from Keron. MR2 wheel and airbag from ebay. (only wanted the airbag) TRD horn button from ebay. (Japan) I needed the Tiptronic buttoned wheel to control the Suprastick VV4 gear changer, this wheel has 4 wires that plug into the revolving column contacts. (live in, earth, upchange signal and downchange signal) My original wheel had only 1 wire for the horn. Fortunately, there were 4 revolving column contacts in the loom, 3 of these appear to serve no purpose with my base spec model Supra and will be utilised to connect to the SSV4 ECU. 2 of the 3 other wires however, were in the wrong holes, but using a watch makers screwdriver, simply popped out and then clicked back into holes that match up. With that done, the wheel then went straight on as normal, and the Airbag was a compatible fit. I then stuck my thumb nail behind the badge on the TRD horn button, ran it round until it eased off, and stuck it on with some black silicone adhesive. Again, this was the perfect size to fit. To fit this without the buttons would be a 2 minute job.

That sounds a useful piece of kit, do you have a link to this? According to the 'bible' 285 35's are the exact RR on 18's, only problem is, Vredestein don't make that size, so went with the 275's because the 295's were too wide for the wheel.

I have been told that the Momo boss doesn't fit the Supra? Didn't need a boss kit for mine, as the wheel and airbag were made by Mr T. Take a look on ebay, there is a cheap boss on there that does at a fraction of the price. Lots of used wheels too.

Thank's. Here is the 'proper' TRD wheel, but I don't like shiny pieces, prefer the one I have made, and the price.

I have recently finished collating a hybrid, ready to control the Suprastick VV4. Facelift Tipronic wheel, MR2 Mk3 airbag and the badge from a TRD horn button. If you like the wheel, I have another just the same, but without the buttons and with a Supra airbag.

Hold your cursor over the letters BPU and all will be revealed

You will find this a mine of information. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

How long since you fitted a new fuel filter?

T.R. Thank you anyway. By chance, I have met a member who works for Mr T. He has offered to contact Toyota Japan and find out for me. Today the timing strobe arrived, so I have ignored my dose of man flu for a while and brushed 6" of snow off the car and warmed the engine up. I haven't adjusted it since fitting the camgears, and the exhaust is set at -1o. The reading was 7o BTC, so have adjusted it to 10o. However, I cannot get the engine to idle at less than 1000rpm. This I believe is due to inncorrect throttle sensor position. So this new setting still won't be on the button.

Thank's for the ignition feed info, I will look into this further to find what these wires serve, and which fuses they utilise. Re. the throttle position sensor, I notice there are 3 vac take offs and a throttle opener, this denotes that this is the spec for a MAF equipped engine. These are the settings I am currently using and suspect inncorrect for this engine and trans. The MAP equipped N/A engines have only one vacuum take off on the throttle body, and no throttle opener.

T.R. The relays are both up to spec, I can easilly move the 1 wire trigger feed for the fans and let it run on after stop, but wanted to get the water pump trigger feed from an 'ignition on' source that was not the engine ignition circuit to avoid any poss of voltage drop. Re. the J spec data, no need to photocopy and post, just the base settings, would be sufficient. Cheers

You're up late. Thank's for the info. With regards to the ignition feeds........ The water pump MUST be on at all times the engine is running, so must have an ignition feed. The fans can be wired direct to the stat and battery, but then run when the engine is off yet still hot, so chose to make it common with the pump.

T.R. Wishing only to close a couple of ever decreasing circles of ‘Chinese whispers’ For the record, again, here is my aspiration from page 2 of this thread. “It is pretty average for 20 of the horses to have escaped from a 60k engine so gave myself a 'ball park' start figure of 200bhp. Should I achieve 280, then that would be around 300 on a built engine” As to my claims of economy, I have provided evidence as requested, and accepted an offer to take Ian for a measured trundle. I would like just a little time more to tidy up some ‘loose ends’, it will be easier than spending the journey explaining why they are not complete. I would be interested to learn what more you could possibly expect? Yes I am still running the stock lambada sensors. Thank you for the input re. gauges, that makes sense. Thank you for offering to look up the N/A throttle position sensor settings, I have the settings for the U.K. MAF equipped engines, and that is how it is presently set. However, the J spec MAP equipped engines I suspect are different because the sensor is now in a completely different position. This J spec setting is the info I am having trouble to locate, which is surprising due to the amount there are over here. With regard to the electrical feeds, currently I am using the ignition circuit to feed the trigger for water pump and fan relays. I realise that this is not a good idea, but can find no other 'engine on' live circuit under the bonnet. Other than the cigarette lighter, where can I pick up an ignition live feed for these items? So it is an EGT sensor, is this connected to the ECU? If so, can I simply wire in the AEM EGT to those wires?

T.R. I have already both explained and apologised, and won't do it again, however, should you not have noticed, I have received a considerable volume of flack of which I have had enough, excuse me for being human. I actually wish it was that easy to get banned, then maybe I wouldn't feel so threatened. Snakeoil or not, this earthing system really does make a difference. My knowledge of engines is mechanical, and have admitted on several occasions that my electrical skills are limited, however, to the best of my memory, not one of my electrical questions has ever been answered, maybe this is another reason I feel the balance is not in order on here. Whatever, can we please move on. As far as I understand, I have multiplied the electrical input considerably to the engine, so it makes perfect sense to me to upgrade the earthing system. Whether this is correct or not, it certainly does no harm adding a couple of earth wires.

T.R. I hope that my considerable efforts have gone some way to answer your questions. The annoying digital AFR informs me that during light throttle the mixture is running at 15.9, at tickover 14.7 and under excelleration around 12.4. I am keen to install an EGT gauge but waiting on pod delivery, I already have one gauge dangling from the glove box by it's wires. I plan to fit an 'array' of stepper motor analogue gauges. Could some one please tell me if I can wire them into the ecu, or must I fit a second set of sensors. I realise that I could fit an AEM multi gauge, but hate digital gauges. Does anyone have an answer please for my question re. the (cat health?) sensor that now lives behid the radio?

Chris, Have already agreed to do that at Ians' expense.

Ice, The remaining to do jobs are shown in green if you click the link below. I do all of the work alone and outside, so progress is now hampered by the elements, but I can assure you that I want to get it finished more than anyone. I must now go back a page or two and try and answer some other questions. Just been giving my fingers a rest.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the 'A' in the trans code defined open diff, and 'B' defined Torsen?