David P

Keron will sort you one out

I,ll take £40 each plus carriage?

Have pair of 235 40 18 @ 275 35 18 Continental ZR with 4mm tread?

Don't be, Keron will have one

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No, I bought those.

With all the TRD braces that will be in circulation from the group buy, I thought this information would be useful.

I explained that inbetween the pictures

The inlet manifold is not 'dented', I wrapped some 40 grit sandpaper around a piece of 1 1/4" plastic pipe, rubbed it away, then polished it.

O.K. the job is jobbed. Putting it on the correct (TRD badge backwards) way around helps With one spacer each side, and the "tweak it down over a piece of wood" trick, achieves a knockless fit. Problem is, the bonnet was still hard on it, it would close, but had to bend to do so. Decided to work some off the manifold to achieve a spacerless fit. Maxed the groove to achieved a knockless fit, but only just. It was touching the front of throttle body, so took some off there too. Again, the bonnet still touches, but only gently now. I think the only way to achieve total clearance with either an N/A or TT, would be to remove the fibreglass lining, or maybe fit a TRD bonnet? Or 'donk it' in the middle with a club hammer. I didn't want to do either, so piped the edge of the modified snorkel with small bore rubber pipe. Sooner have metal to rubber, than metal to metal contact. The car seems happy with this brace to bonnet light contact, no rattles or buzzes. Haven't been for a B road blast yet, but on my way to Tesco's, it was noticably less twitchy over single potholes.

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I understand that TRD only make the one design, which is a direct almost fit on J spec TT's, but needs a snorkel mod for U.K. spec bonnets and some shimming for N/A's. I will put it on the right way around tomorrow, hopefully, I can then reduce and minimise the amount of shims needed to clear the manifold and close the bonnet. Because mine is an N/A with a U.K. bonnet, it will need both mods. I will post a couple of snaps when done. I hope I haven't got one of those sticky up manifolds.

I have 2 x 235 40 18 ZR and 2 x 275 35 ZR Continentals, all with around 4mm of tread?

I can live with an Australian TuRD badge, or just peel it off and turn it around. If I had to make them all day, I would probably put a few tickets on upside down for the crack I was in a rush to get the job done before dark, caught me out a treat :)

Mmmm, just worked it out. Installed it with the badge reading forwards. It's on backwards? Will have another go tomorrow Kev, I will post you a snorkel snap when done.

The rain stopped for a few minutes, so I nipped out and bolted on the TRD strut brace. To clear the N/A manifold I used 3 of the top strut rings as spacers, and then the different thickness washers supplied with it. This gave me clearance of around 3mm between the manifold and brace. I have a U.K. snorkel under the bonnet, so after marking the cut line, took it off. Then it starts raining again. This is when I learned that the bonnet wouldn't close? It was laying hard on the brace with more than an inch left to close? It is now back in it's TuRD box, and I am now wet, cold and grumpy:( Ray has one fitted with no problem. Are there different spec engine mountings? Anybody else experienced or heard of this issue?

Question for Chris Wilson. I am considering the options for a suspension upgrade, but in 'search', I can only find 'snippets'. The car is my daily driver, with a sprint or two now and again. Brakes U.K. spec, wheels 18" x 8.5J front, 9.5J rear with 255 35 and 275 35 Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's. I don't want to be low, and become scared of sleeping policemen, or have my fillings shaken out, so I am leaning towards; J spec springs with Bilstein B6 shocks, TRD anti roll bars and front strut brace. The Chris Wilson set up sounds interesting, but what you get for the money I cannot find, or a website for CW's products and services? Advice please.

N/A or TT?

It's game over anyway, another member has it. I was sure that the shipping expense would put you off. Excuse me.

I have had 'games' with this job too. Because you do not need to re-use your pulley, heat, and more heat and, the 'best' available, even pull and tap, should be more than sufficient. In the unlikely event that this and all else fails, the OEM pulley is made of aluminium, and a get out of jail card, is to go in with a disc cutter, no need to go all the way, a tap on a cold chisel will finish the job cleanly. Have fun

Radiator, from N/A auto. Will fit N/A auto or manual, and T.T. Auto or manual. For manual installations, the integrated transmission cooler can be used as power steering cooler. Small mark, (shown in photo) made during crank pulley removal. Since driven to Russia and back with it and no problem. £40 inc P&P SOLD to Ben

N/A Top and bottom rad hoses £10 inc P&P

Parcelforce want £11.00 for carriage! Would £20 inc P&P be O.K.?