David P

Looking for a TRD front lip please.

Only took it off because of a MAJOR service before driving to Russia and back. I said I would give it to you, and I did not ask for P&P either. Are you expecting a better offer

I have a used one you can have if you like?

Dan, Bad news i'm afraid, looks like you won't be using The TRD's with your 'sexy' pumbing. The TRD bar is not bent as tight, and confirms your worst fears. The TRD bracket has a grease nipple, but not as strong as the OEM. There are a pair of spacer shims in the kit, but no instructions, these shims fit under the brackets, but don't know to put them front or rear? The bend was so far across, the bar fouled the bottom hose. Plenty of room before the bend, so cut off 30mm. Plenty of clearance all round.

Matt, The OEM fuel reg I disected and re-designed had originally been constructed by brazing, you can't weld over brass. Thank's for the input though, looks like the job is now in good hands. Hope that's O.K. with you?

Chris, That's perfect There is no hurry for this, I just seem to be located in a brazerless zone? pm your address, and I will drop it in the post. Thank you very much, that's brightened up a dull day. Matt, Please excuse me, that was an offer I couldn't refuse.

Found anoher tall MR2 Bomex with a flat skinny top, never realised there were so many designs, maybe I should get out more? I wonder if my old spoiler would fit on my mates GT4? Edit: On closer inspection, it was the same one, maybe I should get out to specsavers more often?

Found another Bomex, this one's called the High level spoiler, must have been the 'Daddy' of the range

Matt, This bracket game has been going on for about 4 months now, 'next week' is warp speed to me. If you could ask, I could post it down in a Jiffy. 'Brazing has gone out of fashion', I must be getting old Thank's for helping David

I have read too, that an HKS couldn't filter out particles smaller than pubic lice I ran with one for 6k without the 'gusset trick', and through 3" duct before I installed this. Never go back.

I'm confident that the induction modifications have given more power. No hot air gets in, the box is sealed once the bonnet is closed. Since fitting the alloy rad, their is not room for the insulated over rad air intake, so I am fitting a 4" rammed air pipe direct to the box, the system wouldn't pass an OEM induction noise test, yet is a more efficient design, the manifold is also isolated from the hot water, insulated underneath and cold air ventilated above. My Supra's the coolest sucker around. Will find out how well it works when it goes on the rollers.

A picture without flash say's a thousand words.

Found it, claimed to be a Bomex Fast and Furious, but it's isn't.

Yes you're right about the boot, it's half way through emptying of 'treasures' after a visit to Keron's, and filling up with 'stuff' ready to go my pals workshop for the day tomorrow. Rack oil seal, diff oil change, fit TRD anti roll bars and change rear strut top. I have been looking at the Greddy spoiler snaps, (informative thread) it doesn't have the high lip, but does have the same design large base. Maybe another model from this stable?

I have recently acquired an alternative rear spoiler, it's discreetly different I have not seen alike before, does anyone know it's origin? Just taken these snaps, I timed the first one to make the bloke in the passing car think he had been nicked for going faster than he should have been :D:innocent:

Chewy, You've got the wrong end of the stick mate.

Abs, Since disecting the regulator the pieces goose chase has led me far and wide. The large red banjo bolt and banjo on the side had to be ordered from U.S. The 2 bottom banjo's and double length bolt were both special order by UK specialist from somewhere East. These parts have been machined to fit and TIG welded together. The complications of different threads and fittings when using International aftermarket items are frustrating, but I now have all the components I need, and more. I shall be pleased when the job is jobbed.

Thank's for the offer, the Mk1 was made from alumunium but failed badly. It is difficult to feel the beginning of the thread with the right hand double banjo bolt passing through 3 Dowty washers and 2 hardline banjo's, the aluminium threads were not happy with this. And the heat from TIG welding an aluminium nut on the side, made the pressed brass insert fall out. This is the Mk2, made from a recycled, steel OEM fuel reg, it is 'robust', fits perfectly and works a treat. I have been running around after this little piece of barn door engineering for week's. All I need is someone to flux and heat the edges of this missaimed blob, and the job is jobbed. Because it is not structural, I could maybe fix it with silver solder, but would sooner it simply brazed. There must be someone who can still braze, we used to do this at school.

It needed tailoring to fit my N/A, but the sheet alloy construction can be altered simply enough. I got it from Speedforsale, get lots of my parts from there, have a look, lots of nice bits at the lowest prices with excellent service. I have dealt with many of the US traders, and have learnt to always look, or ask here first. http://www.speedforsale.com/index.php?specificmakemodel=Toyota%20Supra%20Twin%20Turbo

This is the best I found, K&N Extreme, in a Maxair box. This is designed for the TT, but I have tailored it to fit my N/A.

Here's some bumf I copied from the MVP site. Titan These bars weigh 15 pounds for both of them and they are made of chromoly with only the newest technology available.The Front Bar specs are as follows (note these #'s are measured by the stiffness of the existing TRD sway bar that you can get from TRD):Front Sway Bar (2 way adjustable):Light Setting 8% stiffer then TRD 498.9 lbs/inHeavy Setting 27% stiffer than TRD 585 lbs/inRear Sway Bar (3 way adjustable):Light 18% softer then TRD 367 lbs/inMedium 6% Stiffer than TRD 458 lbs/inHeavy 35% Stiffer than TRD 588 lbs/in TRD These bars are 27% stiffer than stock, providing needed extra control in the corners. Price is for BOTH the front and the rear bars and all the necessary bushings. These bars can NOT be bought seperately, this is the only way TRD sells them! I have chosen the TRD's, because my car is my 'daily driver', but I have read on here somewhere that a member found the TRD rears too stiff for road use? The Titan's are more for track use, I bet the millions of single potholes we have in our roads, would feel more like billions at the higher weights. One thing I am curious about though, the TRD's are a matched increase over stock at both front and rear, yet the Titan's front/rear weight increase is 'all over the shop'? Maybe this is for us, just to wonder, and Chris Wilson to know Edit

The curves in your avatar will get my vote But maybe i'm strange

Nearly there

Mmmm, I hope the old dog's bars are not 'sexier' than mine

Is there a club member who is 'dab hand' at brazing? I have been fabricating a bracket to mount a fuel regulator on my N/A engine. This piece began life as an OEM fuel reg, which was brazed together, so dictates that brazing or soldering is the only way to continue. I have only managed to find one person in my locallity who is geared up for the task, and he has now had 3 failed attempts. After attempt 2, shown mounted on engine, it only had a minute hairline leak, but after attempt 3, it now has 3 good leaks, shown in close up. After attempt 2, he told me not to go back with it again, so I dare not go back with it and ask for a fourth attempt. Before I resort to silver solder, is there someone who can help out? Thank you.