David P

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paul mac, You're spot on. A temp gauge tells all.

All the information you could ever need has been posted.

It looks different because I have shortened one of the pipes and tweaked it away from the engine to make the pipe installation parallel, easier/neater, yet I guarantee that the top pipe as it comes along the side of the engine/sump is the flow, and the bottom pipe is the return. Déjà vu

Looking for n/s front wheel arch plastic please, the vented piece in front of wheel? And a drivers door knee pad too if you have one?

Front & rear antiroll bars with full set of good drop links, bushes and straps. Open to sensible offers for all or parts of. Buyer(s) collect or pay P&P

I bought mine from a trader on ebay, but they are made in the UK and are readilly available, just Google it. You will find the Toyota pipework is 9mm (3/8") and the Mocal stat is 1/2" (12mm) so you will need some adaptors too, and make sure you use the correct spec hose for oil, water hose looks the same, but will soon fail. Don't force the 3/8" pipe onto 1/2", it weakens it, this snap shows the adapters.

Here is a snap of the Mocal stat I promised to post. The top pipe as they are routed along the side of the engine is the flow from transmission and bottom pipe the return. I have fitted a cooler to mine, because I am using an aftermarket radiator that doesn't have an integrated transmission cooler. The hoses and thermostat are fitted tight to the radiator to encourage fluid warm up, and there is a temp sensor all cosy in the insulation so I can check the transmission is up to working temp before making it work hard. The thermostat prevents the fluid circulating the cooler untill up to working temperature. For your application, the stat will need to be fitted after the 'in radiator' heater/cooler, and before the aftermarket cooler. I very much doubt you actually need an additional cooler, but if it makes you happy to have one, then to plumb it in the manner described will prevent any damage being caused to your transmission by constant cold fluid.

Pointless anyway to first warm the fluid and then cool it before returning to the transmission. You need to re-think what you are trying to achieve. You need a stat in the system to allow the transmission fluid to get up to temperature before it goes through the additional cooler. Without a stat, the fluid will take a long time to get up to working temp, and in the winter it never will. Running constantly on cold fluid = buggered transmission. Mocal make a neat 1/2" bore stat, I will post a snap of it installed when I get home and on my own P.C.

Like I said. The top trans fluid pipe/hose is the flow, and the bottom is the return. Can't help some people.

Alex, Contrary to popular belief, you can get a noticable gain in both torque and bhp from an economic DIY induction mod. 1 x 4" plastic soil pipe elbow 1 x 4" plastic to 4" clay rubber adapter Off cut of 2mm alluminium 3" K&N (or A.N. Other) filter 1 x 75 - 102mm 90o rubber or silicone elbow 1 x 102 - 102mm 45o rubber or silicone bend 1 x 102 - 75mm 45o rubber or silicone bend Glue (I found Loctite silicone the best) Shrink tube Bubblewrap Heating engineers tape 2 hose clips It sounds a bit 'Blue Peter' but it works a treat, looks good too. There are some snaps of it in various stages, here and there on pages 2 & 1 in the album in my profile.

Top pipe flow, bottom pipe return.

The weight of the flywheel is to provide kinetic energy to smooth out the 'pulsing' of the cylinders whilst at low revs. Lightening the flywheel reduces this damping affect and sends a 'chatter' along the line. At higher revs it sorts itself out.

With the pipe at each end, they are about 12" long, so I cut them down to 9" and they will then fit in anywhere. I then just cut out 9" of pipe in the Silent Power and welded it in. They don't have baffles, they split the flow into 2, the flow around the ouside travels further than the flow through the middle. This turns the exhaust note into a 'harmony'. Each one removes 7 dB, and the sound of the straight 6 is amazing. This link is not a straight 6, but gives you an idea how well they work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xMwCLF1ioY&feature=related

I fitted an HKS Silent Power to my N.A. and silent it was not, nearly vibrated my fillings out. So I added a Moroso spiral muffler to my system, the difference it made was amazing, cost about £50. Works really well for something so small, and no restriction either. Available for any size pipe up to 3". There are some snaps in my profile album.

Kettering

Not sure what the protocol is here? If my pic shouldn't be posted up front, let me know and I will remove it

It won't need laquer, but if you do plan to use it, you could use any paint finish, as long as the laquer was satin, you would end up with a satin finish.