David P

All back together again and oil cleaned off. Whilst at it, I upgraded the insulation on inlet plenum with 10mm neoprene and covered with heating engineers tape, also finished fitting the rammed cold air feed to injector rail and underside of inlet manifold.

Lucky escape yes, but I have learned the hard way to go gently and pay attention for a while after such major surgery, just in case. I have made a running repair by using a spare hose as a return loop after the stat and filled up with a cocktail of odds and sods of synthetic oils. It is only one pipe I need to change, and fortunately, it is the easiest one to get at, but it means stripping the under guards again to do it, then a lot of running around, cleaning up the mess from 2 U.S. gallons of oil and waiting for more oil to arrive. All in all, a right wucking find up.

Yesterday I collected the made to measure braided oil hoses from Corby Hose and Hydraulic, they claimed them to be tested to 100psi. Spent all day today laying under the car in the rain plumbing in the relocated oil filter, Mocal stat and oil cooler. It was a very akward job, difficult to get at, and I was not really tooled up properly, but got the job jobbed. I have had a threaded bush made to marry my favorite filter to the block, a Fram PH 4854, it ups the oil capacity by around a litre. Here's a snap of it next to a standard Supra filter. I had to take out the ECU to drill the holes for the fixing bolts, but it fits in snugly next to the fuel filter and is nice and easy to get at. Spun her over with the plugs out to fill the pipes, filter and cooler, then started her up and leak checked, all good. On my way home, thankfully at only a 40mph trundle, the oil pressure dropped to zero. I immediately cut the engine and pulled over. On inspection, I found one of the new hoses had blown at the fitting after the stat. And on closer inspection found that it had not been swaged. In retrospect it looks obvious, but I didn't notice before and during fitting. No harm has come to the engine, but what a mess, and it will take me another full day to put it right. Nevertheless, I hope without dispute, they cough up the £92.32 for the 2 gallons of Redline 5/30W. P.S. If you are driving on the A6003 past Corby tomorrow, watch out for the Redline slick.

Neville, If you want this, please contact me and close the deal. I am holding this for you and others are waiting your answer.

They are available, saw them for sale somewhere, but silly money.

SOLD to Nevile N/A auto instrument cluster £30 + £5 P&P

Ooop's, and it was wrapped with inverted comma's too. I really must wear my glasses whilst pressing buttons. I will send you the trans upgrade kit when I get your address.

That's an apt and 'spooky' word too. The cam gears are made by 'Unorthodox' Racing. Wanted to cover up the cam belt, yet leave the gears accessible. Looks good too.

Beast, Cheers, that will go in when I change the front oil seal, but it won't be seen as I have remodelled another guard. The project is coming on well now, have had the prop out and in, and now I have the measurement, it is ordered. Tomorrow will get the oil filter relocation kit mounted and measure up for the hoses. Once that is done I will begin the water/meth installation. That only leaves the HHO, and then it can go on the rollers.

Carlos, Next time I get over to Keron's place, I will take a photo of a column loom for you.

Andy, I used a column loom from a J spec T.T. which has a 6 wire plug in the whirlygoround, and 2 more for the air bag making 8. I don't have airbags, so; 1. Earth for horn 2. Cruise 3. Cruise 4. Cruise 5. Live in for tipronic buttons 6. Up control out 7. Down control out 8. Spare Hope that helps.

I am busy too, tomorrow I am taking the prop out to measure the gap, then only to put it back in again. A job for nothing, but have been let down 3 times with the measurement, so there is no other way. Then to do something positive, take out the cat that's not needed, finish wrapping the exhaust manifold and advance the timing up to 19oBTDC. That should give it a smidgen more. The adapter for the oil filter has eventually turned up, so I can get on with the relocation and oil cooler hook up this week. I then want to start getting the water/meth system in and begin the HHO installation. I am trying to get it finished and on the rollers, then will take it to the august meet. Will come and play Supragames somewhere inbetween. Parle' 'bonjour' a' Frogtopia pour moi.

Hello Shane, The wiring instructions are very much, 'it will work if you can work it out'. Yet after my apprenticeship sorting out the active spoiler, cruise control and electric adjusting headlamps retrofits, I am getting dab hand with Supra electrickery. But to be fair, Garrett Rowe has been very helpfull by email. It appears this is the first time one of these has been fitted into a Supra Mk4, quite bizarre for a device called 'Suprastick V4'. I will drop by and take you for a flappy blast, but be warned, you will want one too.

Suprastick version 4.6 There has been curiosity from some re. this device, so now I have wired it in and started playing with it, I can tell more about it. It is compatible with the N/A auto box, but not the T.T. (The T.T. box has more solenoids) It has a 'manualised' function, a la 'flappy paddle' gear change. To control this I have used a Supra tiptronic wheel, but any buttons or even a cruise control stalk will work. The flappy paddle function is great fun to play with when not around town. At the flick of a switch it returns to auto, this can be auto mapped from the OEM ECU signals. However, I could not get this function to work, but as I plan to replace the OE ECU with a standalone AEM, it was only a matter of time, so I have written my first combi map controlled by throttle position. 1 -25% Around town low rev 'trundle' map. 26 -50% 'Eco' map. 51 -75% A 'getting on with the job' map. 76 - 100% A 'red liner' in all gears map. There are many other adjustable parameters that I am working out by trial and test. The only down side is, there is no engine braking when changing down from 3rd into 2nd, because the brake bands are manually controlled by the stick, but the up side is, I can install the AEM ECU with no concerns re. the trans or rolling road. All in all, a lot of fun for £250. There are links to more info in 'my car', (link below) and pics in the album in my profile.

Rob, A reminder for you to send me your address so I can send back the kph cluster as agreed. Cheers

Barney's Banshee