David P

I am waiting for components to complete the N/A build. They should be here in a week or two I hope, then I can get it finished and on the rollers. Then we will all know the magic number. Whilst waiting, tinkering with this.

* (Full up-to date pics, specs and vids here.) I have started to tinker with an Eaton M112 Supra supercharger conversion. The plan is to mount a Jaguar XKR 4.2L V8 Eaton M112 supercharger over the Autobahn88 exhaust headers and feed it through a water-to-air charge-cooler fitted on top of the engine. I am also building an N/A A340E - T.T. A343E manualised automatic transmission hybrid, good for 500ftlbs + and Suprastick compatible, so I can keep my 'flappy paddle' gear change. The car has an active spoiler that I want to keep, which means no room for FMIC pipework, and the front will be 'busy' with 2 HHO generators, a water/meth system and 8 HID ballasts. I also have a cold air induction feed that I want to keep, which means no space for a SMIC. The distributor will be awkward to work around, but to change to coil on plug would raise the height of the cooler by a couple of inches and I don't want a 'Mad Max' bonnet. Here is the charge cooler I have found to redesign for the job, it is rated at 600bhp+ and I will also have water/meth injection, so plenty of induction cooling there will be. This is a charge cooler pre rad from a Jag X300, I have 2 of these, they are the perfect size to fit. They each cooled 326bhp, so a combined 752 will keep induction cool and deter detonation in this high compression build. The port matched Autobahn88 headers have 10 layers of wrap and can be held by hand even after a good thrashing. I have bought an N/A engine to use as a jig, and to have as a spare just in case the one I have now fails. Here is a snap of the first mock-up. The rockers have now been cut away to make room for the charge cooler to fit into the divot, and the 6 branch knuckle has been opened up ready to weld directly to the charge cooler. There is more work to be done cleaning up and reworking the casting. I have finished re-working a set of runners, and they will go on as part of the N/A build as soon as I can organise a phenolic gasket, and then will be in situ ready for the supercharger conversion. Here's a snap of the cooler in the cut out rockers ready to be marked for the side to be cut off and mate up to the knuckle. Birds eye view ready for the cut and shunt.

Heard this one today and thought of Chris, "It's the first time anyone has had their finger in Diana's ring since Dodi"

Don't let it get you down, it is excellent Pratt identification.

Use a 4Runner distributer cap, 19101-65040

I had a Toyota 4Runner for 5 years, V6 3L leather trim etc, and fitted lpg conversion, loved it. Recommend that you drive one that's been 'lifted' before you spend money spoiling it.

SOLD These were on the car when I bought it. Have multifit centres and will also fit car with 4 stud fixings. 8 1/2J front with budget 235 45 ZR tyres - 6mm tread. 9 1/2J rear with Pirelli P Zero 245 45 - 2.5mm tread. Come with the chrome, standard, and locking nuts shown in pic. I do not have any of the centre caps. They will not fit over U.K. spec brakes. I think they look good on a Supra. The rims are anodised and salt resistant and the spokes are laquered. Good for a set of winter wheels. All have a little 'road rash'. £150 collect.

I have found that the workshop manual is 'economic' with information of these transmissions. Could someone give me a link to a pdf that shows them reduced to their component parts. Thank you.

Stand up for your petrol headed manhood, and make a Top Gear coffee table. An old V8 from the breakers, and a sheet of glass from the DIY. Sorted !

My copy of the 2011 calendar has arrived, and looking at the Supra logo enlarged and emblazoned on the cover, I noticed the tail of the letter 'a' in the word 'Supra'. I have heard many libidos remarks re. fast cars, yet never heard of this subliminal Supra 'stonker'.

N/A or T.T. traction can be an issue when the winter is at it's worst. Make sure the one you buy has a Torsen LSD in it. Two wheel drive is better than one.

Never seen it done before on a road car, I doubt it makes much of a difference, but must be doing more good than harm. Yet I have read that a phenolic gasket between head and runners can make 4oC difference to intake temps. You will see in my previous post that I have paid attention to keeping the induction as cold as possible. Tuning an N/A is a bit like going to Tesco. Every little helps.

The number '13' was for water pump and viscous fan. I recall that it is around 1 bhp of parasitic loss per 25 amps to drive the alternator. Hope I don't have to provide a dynograph to support that comment.

I have just spent an hour searching, but could not find where I read the number 13. There are plenty of quotes like this though. "Here is my experience, when I had the 327 in my car running 13.10 with a best of 13.0 I was running the mechanical h2o pump, mech. fan and power steering. I swithced to elec. fan, moroso elect drive for h20 pump and put a manual steering box on. No other changes at all and car ran 12.50's and best 12.43 and mph went from 102 to 106 which is the best indicator of hp increase."

Thank you for the compliments. I have kept the inducted air as cold as possible. Rammed cold air feed. Insulated air box. Insulated induction plenum. Heat wrapped headers. Hot water feed to throttle body isolated. Insulation between rocker covers and T.B. U.K. bonnet scoop with modified snorkel blows cold air on T.B. Rammed cold air feed to fuel rail and between manifold and head. Just the phenolic gasket to fit between the inlet runners and head to complete the cold air mods. I have been back and expanded the engine pic so you can see more, I had left it small because it's also in another thread. If you want to see any more, there are loads more pics and info in 'my garage' and albums, with the amount of views it has had, I thought most would have already seen this by now. I want to get the N/A build finished and set up on the rollers before beginning the supercharger project.

Helps N/A's along too, and will come in handy when I get around to fitting the supercharger.

You might like this; more pics of it in 'my garage' and 'Evolution' album.

The viscous coupled fan is engaged at all times once the engine has warmed up. I used a Meziere electric water pump, you can see it in the engine pic on the previous page, but should you decide to fit one, make sure that it is going to fit before you strip the engine! The one I bought had 4 bolt holes in the wrong place, and the U.S. is a long way to take it back. Details in my garage if you click on the thumbnails in the cooling section. In fact almost every 'made in the U.S.' component I have utilised has required re-engineering.

You don't need a dyno to work out that it requires power to turn a water pump and drive a fan.

Thank you That's the snap that made the montage on the cover of the new calendar. They are quieter, only function when needed, which is when stuck in traffic or engine running without car moving. Free up power from parasitic loss, and give more room to get at the front of the engine, look good too. The OE water pump and viscous fan use around 13bhp, which is around 2mpg. Can't remember off hand for just the fan, because have changed both. I have been running a set of these for 12 months with no issues. The one's I bought have a 'Mishimoto' label on, and cost twice the price plus International shipping plus import tax. It is the same item. The only difference is the price: £440.63 + P&P + VAT ? or £69.99 inc VAT & P&P

I have seen a set of these ebay alloy shroud and fans. They are identical to the ones I have, but without the Mishimoto badge and at half the price.

Congratulations, you can now look forwards to him asking to borrow your car.

Don't sell it, rent it out as a getaway car.