David P

Don't let it get you down, it is excellent Pratt identification.

Use a 4Runner distributer cap, 19101-65040

I had a Toyota 4Runner for 5 years, V6 3L leather trim etc, and fitted lpg conversion, loved it. Recommend that you drive one that's been 'lifted' before you spend money spoiling it.

SOLD These were on the car when I bought it. Have multifit centres and will also fit car with 4 stud fixings. 8 1/2J front with budget 235 45 ZR tyres - 6mm tread. 9 1/2J rear with Pirelli P Zero 245 45 - 2.5mm tread. Come with the chrome, standard, and locking nuts shown in pic. I do not have any of the centre caps. They will not fit over U.K. spec brakes. I think they look good on a Supra. The rims are anodised and salt resistant and the spokes are laquered. Good for a set of winter wheels. All have a little 'road rash'. £150 collect.

I have found that the workshop manual is 'economic' with information of these transmissions. Could someone give me a link to a pdf that shows them reduced to their component parts. Thank you.

Stand up for your petrol headed manhood, and make a Top Gear coffee table. An old V8 from the breakers, and a sheet of glass from the DIY. Sorted !

My copy of the 2011 calendar has arrived, and looking at the Supra logo enlarged and emblazoned on the cover, I noticed the tail of the letter 'a' in the word 'Supra'. I have heard many libidos remarks re. fast cars, yet never heard of this subliminal Supra 'stonker'.

N/A or T.T. traction can be an issue when the winter is at it's worst. Make sure the one you buy has a Torsen LSD in it. Two wheel drive is better than one.

Never seen it done before on a road car, I doubt it makes much of a difference, but must be doing more good than harm. Yet I have read that a phenolic gasket between head and runners can make 4oC difference to intake temps. You will see in my previous post that I have paid attention to keeping the induction as cold as possible. Tuning an N/A is a bit like going to Tesco. Every little helps.

The number '13' was for water pump and viscous fan. I recall that it is around 1 bhp of parasitic loss per 25 amps to drive the alternator. Hope I don't have to provide a dynograph to support that comment.

I have just spent an hour searching, but could not find where I read the number 13. There are plenty of quotes like this though. "Here is my experience, when I had the 327 in my car running 13.10 with a best of 13.0 I was running the mechanical h2o pump, mech. fan and power steering. I swithced to elec. fan, moroso elect drive for h20 pump and put a manual steering box on. No other changes at all and car ran 12.50's and best 12.43 and mph went from 102 to 106 which is the best indicator of hp increase."

Thank you for the compliments. I have kept the inducted air as cold as possible. Rammed cold air feed. Insulated air box. Insulated induction plenum. Heat wrapped headers. Hot water feed to throttle body isolated. Insulation between rocker covers and T.B. U.K. bonnet scoop with modified snorkel blows cold air on T.B. Rammed cold air feed to fuel rail and between manifold and head. Just the phenolic gasket to fit between the inlet runners and head to complete the cold air mods. I have been back and expanded the engine pic so you can see more, I had left it small because it's also in another thread. If you want to see any more, there are loads more pics and info in 'my garage' and albums, with the amount of views it has had, I thought most would have already seen this by now. I want to get the N/A build finished and set up on the rollers before beginning the supercharger project.

Helps N/A's along too, and will come in handy when I get around to fitting the supercharger.

You might like this; more pics of it in 'my garage' and 'Evolution' album.

The viscous coupled fan is engaged at all times once the engine has warmed up. I used a Meziere electric water pump, you can see it in the engine pic on the previous page, but should you decide to fit one, make sure that it is going to fit before you strip the engine! The one I bought had 4 bolt holes in the wrong place, and the U.S. is a long way to take it back. Details in my garage if you click on the thumbnails in the cooling section. In fact almost every 'made in the U.S.' component I have utilised has required re-engineering.

You don't need a dyno to work out that it requires power to turn a water pump and drive a fan.

Thank you That's the snap that made the montage on the cover of the new calendar. They are quieter, only function when needed, which is when stuck in traffic or engine running without car moving. Free up power from parasitic loss, and give more room to get at the front of the engine, look good too. The OE water pump and viscous fan use around 13bhp, which is around 2mpg. Can't remember off hand for just the fan, because have changed both. I have been running a set of these for 12 months with no issues. The one's I bought have a 'Mishimoto' label on, and cost twice the price plus International shipping plus import tax. It is the same item. The only difference is the price: £440.63 + P&P + VAT ? or £69.99 inc VAT & P&P

I have seen a set of these ebay alloy shroud and fans. They are identical to the ones I have, but without the Mishimoto badge and at half the price.

Congratulations, you can now look forwards to him asking to borrow your car.

Don't sell it, rent it out as a getaway car.

Jazzzzzzzzz, if it was a dog it wouldn't be drinking, but howling

Mine is mounted here in place of the lower horn where it fits perfectly, even with an active spoiler. It does not draw any more current than the OE pair, so does not need a relay. I used the OE spade that fed the original bottom horn which was a perfect fit direct to the Stebel, and routed the earth to an OE loom earthing bolt behind o/s headlamp . It sounds like this;

I have one of those Stebel's on mine, have fun.