David P

Barneys Beastie breathes Best wear your welding goggles when driving, to protect your eyes from digital arc-eye It is interesting that the sound made with the charger before the t.b. is very different, and lots of, compared with t.b. before the charger. Looking towards our first race

Subject to payment. SOLD

SOLD Refurbished Tein Super Street Driving Master coil overs with New OE top mounts and bump stops. I serviced and refurbished these coilovers with plans to fit them to my Supra, but decided to hold out for a Chris Wilson set up. These are compatible with EDFC control units. All the adjuster rings are free and lubricated. The adjusters for the damping rate work correctly. Bare metal prep, primed and sprayed in 'Tein colour'. (Ford Moderno green) Come with pair C spanners. They will fit all MKIV models. Looking for £450 the set + P&P, or collect from Kettering, or a convenient meet.

The Great 3/8" NPT tap hunt goes on. To beat the challenge of having to spend £20 buying a tap to use just once for 1 minute to thread this last hole, I have taken the casting everywhere with me. Today I have routled through 3 huge collections of taps without striking gold, but have found a BSP tap with illegible size I.D. that looks the right size, if it is, this thread is only 1 TPI different and will be good enough to locate a sensor. Will brave the elements tomorrow. I also picked up a T.T. auto prop and Torsen diff from Keron. Just the N/A trans to fetch from Portsmouth, then I will have all the components for the hybrid.

A routle through a large biscuit tin full of taps at one of the garages, unearthed a 1/8" NPT tap. That just leaves the 3/8" NPT to hunt down.

I have set the ignition timing to 10o BTDC, tweaked the fuel reg to exactly 43.5psi, filled up with the cheap stuff for a change and reset the ECU. I have driven around 100 miles today, and as always, with light to moderate throttle below 4krpm the AFR hovers around 14.7:1 WOT @ over 4k rpm the AFR drops to 10.4:1, a slight improvement but still way too rich. Maybe I will just trundle around until the s.c. goes on.

In my haste, I have not reset the ignition timing, tomorrow I will adjust to 12o (stock) and give the ECU another brainwash.

I have noze my fruts off today bodgelocking an OE AIT sensor back into the loom, hung the sensor in the air box and disconnected the AEM AIT sensor,(stock) returned the fuel pressure to 43.5psi, (stock) zero'd the cams, (stock) zero'd the ECU, ran it through a full cold start reboot and driven it 25 miles and the AFR now drops to 9.5 @ WHAT! Maybe Japanese logic works backwards

T.T. fuelrail does not fit N/A. Mk3 supra do fit, but I need 550, not 440. I quote myself to try and keep on topic.

Yes it is still available, but the TRD bonnet has the same line as the stock hood and I doubt it would clear. A Bomex or Chargespeed would.

I will cross those off my list then. The VR6 injectors are the same as Skyline Vxr if that helps.

Are the top feed high impedence injectors from a Vr6 compatible with the N/A fuel rail?

The AIT sensor change was in readiness for the pending AEM ECU installation, and also tidied up the engine bay and loom. I didn't want to start dicking the engine bay and loom about retrobackwards for this slightly out of phase upgrade. When we do get a half decent day, I will bodgelock the OE AIT sensor to the loom, hang it in the air box and disconnect the AEM sensor, return the fuel pressure to 43.5psi, zero the cams, zero the ECU and see what happens to the AFR. Which reminds me, I have a brand new AEM 1 bar MAP sensor, but need a 2 bar. Anyone want to swop?

Today I managed to borrow a 1/8" BSPT tap. Now I can locate the vacuum and oil breather hose connectors to the s.c. elbow and throttle body. But I am still looking for both 1/8" & 3/8" NPT taps to thread the AEM MAP & AIT sensors into the distribution knuckle, this American pipe thread is uncommon here. There's a couple of Yank car garages in the next one horse town, maybe i'll just mosy on over.

The comment re. N/A engines over fuelling when fitted with tubular headers I have seen mentioned a couple of times here on the forum, if the member(s) posting these comments could please comment here it would be helpful. The engine is running on Tesco 99 @ 19o BTDC, stock cams inlet +1o exhaust – 3o, the ECU was reset almost every time I altered the fuel pressure, the engine has an AEM AIT sensor which the stock ECU may not understand, but at light to moderate throttle at legal speeds, the AFR is spot on up to almost 4k rpm, yet WOT @ 3k+ has become WHAT! The ECU was run for 100 miles after final reset before dyno. I have nowhere at home to work on the car or components, and do all of the work on my car and jig engine outside at my friends workshop about 20 miles away. A few years ago whilst on one of my great adventures, I almost lost fingers from both hands with frostbite, and now my tolerance to cold fingers is both poor and painful. As I have mentioned before, I tinker with my Supra for pleasure. To provide the dynograph I promised cost me a day + £50 + fuel, and the weather is too cold to be scratching around outside under the bonnet looking for something to spend money on, that I needn't. When I can be mostly inside an unheated tin shed a few degrees warmer working on the supercharger components, and be certain that my car will be back together before it gets dark so I can then drive the 20 miles home. By the time the weather and hours of daylight allow me to return to the pleasures of my bi-seasonal mechanic a la naturelle activities, the supercharger conversion will be ready to bolt on. I am disappointed for this projectamuddle conundrum, because I am sure the results would have surprised many, nevertheless, it would have answered many questions. I have been spending so much time in Bob's shed that his wife thinks I have moved in. I really would like to get the car finished then drive to Eastern Europe for some fishing this summer.

The vacuum operated torque valve is working fine and so is the ignition. I have read on the forum that upgrading the exhaust system makes the N/A run rich. The graph shows that the torque drops off dramatically when the AFR runs rich, and as much as I would like to know what it could do with the AEM installed and set up, I can't justify the expense of having the job done twice. .

OE distributor cap, circa 1k miles only, before changing it for a 4Runner cap. £15 inc P&P.

N/A fuel pump ECU out, T.T. f.p. ECU in, and the job is jobbed, thankfully, a simple plug and play fix. I have modified the gasket face of the supercharger elbow to fit snugly up-side-down and clear the two s.c. rotor bearing caps, and have found all the little bolts, banjos and vacuum fittings required. The metric threaded banjos are fitted, yet I now need to find a 1/8" BSPT tap for the supercharger elbow and throttle body vacuum and oil breather fittings, and 1/8" and 3/8" NPT taps to fit the AEM MAP and AIT sensors into the distribution knuckle. Each and every component requires several modifications and these tasks are time consuming. I have yet to fathom out the best way to redesign the bypass valve, currently it has a 'Y' branch that originally connected to both banks of the V8 it was designed for, yet one branch fouls on the Autobahn manifold, and the other will foul on the yet to be fabricated induction pipe. I will have to wait until the 76mm stainless bends arrive to fabricate the pipe, then cut off the Y and replace it with one larger pipe without damaging the butterfly inside and find a route between the two.

Rasta, Excuse me, I have accepted a cash/collected offer.

Have you found out yet?

Picked up a T.T. fuel pump ECU from Keron today, I will swop it tomorrow in the daylight and see if it cures the pump. I have been tinkering with the supercharger induction elbow, modifying it to fit up-side-down and removing unwanted flanges. This casting is to be 'busy' with a bypass valve, idle control valve, brake servo vacuum banjo, closed circuit oil breather banjo, water/meth nozzle and 4 vacuum pipes to BpV, fuel pressure regulator, power steering and ECU vacuum sensor.

N/A auto prop £20 collected. I haven't posted a pic, it looks like a propshaft. Came off mine at 65k miles when I upgraded to an alloy one piece. It doesn't look like the original as it still has the label on it.

Here's a 240 fitted with a 280 engine we are preparing as a vintage rally car.

As I have explained, due to circumstance my future project has caught up with the current, and as much as I would like to know these answers it would cost me another £500ish to do so, and I haven't got that many £500 notes waiting to be burnt. Maybe the 'curious' can have a whip round The late arriving HHO generators will now be included into my supercharger build, when the weather steadies down enough to allow me to work on the car outside and still feel my fingers, so maybe then a comparison can be made with a similar powered single turbo, or Barneys supercharged Supra.