David P

The weather was kind. Many acheivements today, beware photofest. For the first time, the charger has been on the car engine on brackets and without the throttle body in the way. There is space enough at the back and 26mm in and out clearance to play with, so gave the strut 15mm and the manifold 11mm, which is also the outermost limit the distributor will allow. Remounted the throttle body flange at an angle to meet air filter and tacked up a very sexy induction pipe. Front bracket clearance Rear bracket manifold clearance First section of induction pipe The adjustable fixable plate in position Total clearance achieved 26mm Chosen position Position chosen is outer limit for HT lead exit and supercharger mount Induction elbow fits sweetly at the back Must wear gloves Induction to belt clearance A very 'sexy' pipe Inclined throttle body

You must be itching to go for a blast, I would be. Think of your transmission before upping the boost.

The Beastie is alive well done Barney

The weather made sure that the induction pipe didn't get tacked up today. I need a full day with no rain and less wind for that job, and preferably not as cold, tomorrow is forecast to be better. The core has ended up located 6mm further back and 8mm closer to the knuckle than expected, so have moved the right bracket mounts back 6mm and revamped the left to fit them where they are easy to get at and also makes space to use a stock rocker cover on this side.

Picking up the TIG welder on tuesday, ready to stick it all together on wednesday.

I needed another pair of hands to help sort out the induction pipe assembly yet nobody was around today to help, so I found the Jag bypass valve a new place to live, this has 2 outlets on one side because it originally fed a V configuration engine, so have plumbed both into the charge cooler which also act as a mounting to hold it in place. I haven't come across any alloy pipe the correct size for this job, so cut a slip out of a piece of the aerial pole and reduced the diameter by squeezing it with jubilee clips, once in the wonked holes, it springs back open and traps itself into position. Then drilled and tapped the holes for the secondary water/meth nozzles, added the 19mm charge cooler hose tails and had a tinker around tidying a few jobs up.

The pipes bends have arrived. Today was a bit of a grind! I have formed the flanges for each end, the face of the throttle body flange had twisted during welding and this is the rogue piece of 8mm tempered steel. When found it was a 4" square of 8mm with a square hole in the middle, and after wondering what Bernard Cribbins might say about it? I clamped it in the pillar drill and set about it with a hole cutter, it was taking a long time and without checking, assumed it was because of a dull blade, and the belt was slipping on the drill too. Not having another the cutter the same size, I hung 2 pairs of mole grips on the handle for max weight before the belt slipped and got on with another bench job, every now and then giving it a good oiling, it used half a pint and took all afternoon! So hard won was this hole I was determined not to be beaten by this 'angry' hunk, so I hammered and ground it into submission and re-tapped the threads. It fought me hard all the way and I managed to set myself on fire again, twice.......... Voila! The 'Bullet Proof' N/A supercharger throttle body mounting flange is hewn. The other end I started from scratch with a nice piece of 6mm mild steel, and the same cutter went through it with 2 squibs of oil in less than a minute! I have cut and straightened up the back of the mounting plate for more clearance from the manifold. Modified the rake of the diagonal to clear the induction pipe.

The engine in the car has a Meziere electric water pump and the pulley on the front of it is just an idler, it won't care which way it rotates.

The charger pulley and parts to repair the MIG have arrived, so I have moved back onto the bracketry and tidied up where the birds had been. I have fitted the pulley and for the first time the jig engine has a full set, this now allows me to line up the faces, and with a 25 thou feeler as a spacer, the height of the back of the bracket is perfect, also tacked on a couple of pieces of bar to the bottom of plate either side of the front arm, this allows the plate to slide and be adjusted without loosing front alignment. Next time it goes on the car, I can slide it into the best position, nip up the bolt at the back and it will be ready to weld together. The belt has been mocked with tape to show how much space there is to reposition the throttle body.

Still waiting for the pulley wheel, stainless bends, parts to repair MIG welder, alloy rad neck and 3 3/4" T clamps which all were posted on monday, they are not labelled Royal Snail without reason. Without these bits, I am scratching about with little jobs here and there. Managed to get a piece of steel stuck on, just, and formed it around the Autobahn manifold, cut a 4mm alloy blank for the hole where the bypass valve used to be, made the mounting bracket and base for the swirl pot and recycled an N/A top hose casting to connect to the repositioned BV.

Ben, Thank you for the compliment. Money; not much, £300 for the charger, £120 for the charge cooler, £100 for the pulley, £25 for the distributor cap, some odds and sods from ebay and a few scrapyard searches. Relieve your missus of that £400 and you're half way there. The 'know how' which is mostly plumbing, is posted here, so all you need is an angle grinder and a steady hand. It doesn't matter how long it takes, my interest is the challenge and it keeps me out of the pub a bit.

The fabrication of the charge cooler sections is as far as can be done for now, the final pruning around the hose tail will be better done after some welding. Courtesy of dude, the jig engine now has a very dead power steering pump, and courtesy of Shane, now also an alternator. Neither the supercharger pulley or the stainless bends have arrived yet, hope they turn up soon. I have added 3 layers of 6 rib belt to the crank pulley, 2 down and 1 up, this increases the stock 5.5" pulley up to 6.78" ish, which is the diameter of the ATI pulley on engine in car.

Now the brackets are supporting everything where they should be, joining up the dots has become a lot easier. You have reminded me that I haven’t posted the numbers for the chosen pulley size of 4.2”. 6.78” crank pulley / 4.2" supercharger pulley x M112 = 13.56psi (0.93 bar) 711 cfm (20,147 lpm) engine 6,800rpm s.c. 10,977rpm dynamic compression 16.86:1 (figures allow for valve overlap and @ 95% ve) Along with the water/meth and HHO, I think it could be possible to scrape into the exclusive 500 club. All the numbers are posted for anyone who has a bhp cruncher program to make comment.

A few more pieces of the charge cooler are formed and taped into position. I have remade the panel over the knuckle with a bend that is in keeping with the recycled parts.

The wire feed in the MIG keeps sticking and it's not working very well, but managed to get the arms and temporary adjusting support tag tacked to the head foot, it was strong enough to be carved into shape around the elbow so will do for the time being, i'm hiring a TIG welder next week, so if we haven't got the MIG repaired by then it can be finished it off with that. Only a little job, but a great leap forwards. The T.T. ICV and Jag bypass valve have been pruned to fit into their new homes in the growing mock up. I have ground the b.p.v. mounting boss ground off the base of the elbow, which makes more space for a better fixing and simpler plumbing.

Grinding again............................. With the bypass valve relocated and it's mounting boss carved off of the induction casting, there is now space for a better fixing, I have extended the rear of the base-plate and cut the support arms ready for welding to the head foot. There is also a short piece of 30mm bar between them, this has a 4mm hole with a 4mm bolt, that passes through an 18mm hole in the base plate and a 50mm washer under the nut. This will act as a temporary support at the finished height for the rear of the base plate and it is 14mm moveable and fixable by 7mm left, right, forwards or back. I have positioned the core as far right and as far back as it will go, cut and formed the top and bottom sections of core to knuckle branch.

There are sufficient free 'tits' on here without sponsoring them!

Here's a pic of my cold air feed, I have modified it to go on my N/A, yet originally it was made to fit a T.T. It's called a Maxair box and I got it from Speedforsale.com

The stainless pipe bends have not arrived. So I started the weekend with a hunt around the scrapyard, found some 6mm mild steel plate, 12mm aluminium plate, 4" 1.6mm wall tube and an aerial pole with 35mm I.D. Then spent the remainder of the day carving these into little pieces, along with resculpting a TT ICV and the Jag bypass valve. Pics show the brackets now shortened to match the form, captive bolts fitted and with the charge-coolers 12mm aluminium feet mounted in position, the core now just sits on them and is ready for welding. The charger side are longer to provide temporary support of the core at the finished height, and also showing a 'busy' area rear of the core.

I have been trying various combinations of options for the induction components and found I need to reposition the bypass valve. Strange old World, maybe Bypass Valventine Day is soon. I am peeved that I hadn't picked up sooner on this better design, with this out of the way, the plumbing becomes much simpler and I can make a stronger rear mounting for the charger. I will find a new home for it on the charge cooler.

Go around all the edges with the jet wash, especially underneath, to clean out the accumulated muck and also give a good hot blasting on the double sided tape between skirts and top of cills and top and rear edges of spats to try and lift some of it. When dry, give the fixing screws and double sided tape a blathering with WD40, a generous squib of this on the adhesive tape once a day for a week before you do the job will soften the adhesive and make removal a lot easier. Plastic window spacer wedges are good for pushing the 'demon' double sided tape off without scratching the paintwork. With OE fitment this works a treat, but if someone has stuck them on with that Tiger glue shite.......

Not possible with the configuration of your supercharger installation.

It will go on either way, which ever looks prettiest, blank vacuum pipe off, job jobbed.

The valve goes inbetween, before and after the charger, and the vacuum comes from after the throttle body.

Supramemole, Chris Zayfman, [email protected] Good quality but his service speed is measured in geological time.