David P

The shafts are the same as tt if they have abs.

On my N/A in readiness for supercharging, I am using a Manualised Hybrid T.T.-N/A auto trans, proven good for 500+bhp and if it does go bang, it can be replaced for £50.

I have an OE steel two-piece and a one-piece alloy for an auto?

We're not psychic. It's a Landcruiser engine, they are HEAVY. ("The Toyota FZ engine was a 24-valve, 4.5L DOHC straight-6 internal combustion engine manufactured by Toyota to replace the F-series engine. It was used primarily in SUV's because of its large displacement, smoothness, ruggedness and torque.")

What engine is that lurking under the turbo and over the 4wd?

Is that 6 speed a Getrag box?

Use the speed sensor from the transmission OE fitted with the diff and the speed reading will be correct.

Fizzle is into iggi's.

kjgreen3, Thank you for the good news.

Thank you both. Electrickery is amongst my weaker subjects and I am gratified that my original reasoning was correct.

Homer, Thank's for the input, I hope he is wrong, then I can have the batteries in the divot after all.

Now I'm getting really bamboozled. Today I went to a battery Wholesalers and quizzed their resident boffin, he even came out to the car and looked at the job. When I suggested using 2 or more batteries to fit into the divot, he pi$$ed on my bonfire and told me that amps were not cumulative.

"And they all rolled over and one fell out!" Every job is creating two jobs more. The Plan 'A' shelf bracket proved impracticable. Plan 'B', I need to relocate the battery to make space for the hydrogen generators, want to keep the spare wheel and keep the job 'tidy'. My idea was to use multiple smaller batteries in the sub woofer divot, however, I have been told that amps are not cumulative so it wouldn't work! There is to be a plastic tank for the w/m system in the near-side of the 'boot', which leaves the on-side, right at the back for a standard size battery. Nevertheless, I am not keen with the idea of having 25kg hanging out the back. Does anyone have an answer for this Supraconundrum? Input please.

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/785639.html

I have used the search button without success. I need to relocate the battery, don't want to loose the spare wheel and keep the job 'tidy'. My plan was to use multiple smaller batteries in the sub woofer divot, yet I have been told that amps are not cumulative so it wouldn't work! There is to be a plastic tank for the w/m system to the left of the 'boot', which leaves the right side, right at the back for a standard size battery. However, I am not keen with the idea of having 25kg hanging out the back. Has anyone found a way? Input please.

Found mine on ebay without the 'gay' colours for less. (Use the stat to trigger a relay to activate fans)

Slow but sure.

Scratch some soil away and knock a couple of copper nails into a root or 2. Byebye tree.

Wire them to suck, not blow and fit a stat into top hose. There are pics of the install in my garage and albums.

Not my boat floater.

Would that be 'whole' or 'weak'.

http://autotraderblog.co.uk/2010/04/07/rare-jaguar-xj220-abandoned-in-qatar/

Using a top glove box lid, some plastic pipe fittings and No More Nails, I have knocked up a Blue Peter 6 x 52mm gauge pod. It's not perfect, yet not too bad for a Mk1. I will make an improved Mk2 when more important things are completed, it fits and functions and will do for now. I have routed the cable for battery relocation and the tank level sensor wire for w/m system, inside the under car trunking and in through the wheel well grommet, the ends of both these and w/m pipe are coiled up inside and the w/m loom routed and fed. A couple of days of determined tinkering, yet not one thing crossed off the countdown list.

Chris, These are OE Jag X300 cross-flow pre-rads mounted back-to-back on Supra rad-rubbers, with a few odds and sods tweaked about they fit in sweetly, yet it has been a challenge to incorporate them and keep the active spoiler. I have plumbed them; charge-cooler hot to top rear, exit bottom rear to pump, pump to top front and bottom front exit cold back to charge cooler. There's clear a pic of one on in post 1.