David P

Before writing this off before you have even yet managed to give it a proper trying-out in the Real-World. First try deleting the present undisclosed incorrect chassis-earth connection to correct the incorrect wiring of your ECU transmission temp-sensor earth-circuit. Like I have been informing/advising/suggesting/asking/job-listing/telling/explaining/discussing/encouraging/p.m.-ing/emailing/telephoning/texting/cajoling/reminding/prompting/mentioning/begging you to do with priority over homo-carbon sexual-fibre, LED's, pink-paint & shiny-things, for the last 2 or 3 years? The ECU is fault-code free & seems to be happy-enough running the engine with this independent earth-circuit incorrectly shorted to chassis-earth, so by comparison, running with a correctly wired independent earth-circuit via a gauge, could only be an upgrade compared to the present & final unresolved cock-up of the umpteen Electro Gremlins found along the way in your OriNodogarmi?

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344664-800HP-Phantom-With-A-2JZ http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/08/phantom-magic-bye-bye-v12-hello-2jz/

I've added this thread in the hope that it is eventually resolved by the O.P. If revealed, this may turn out to be a lesson for Dipsticks? Auto-box kicking? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344364-Auto-kicking

Bodges include; Failing to mount hard-lines correctly in rubber-sheathed steel-brackets as designed, leading to chafing and or metal fatigue causing catastrophic transmission failure due to ATF loss. Anal-Stupidity includes; Shortening hard-lines (removing flared-ends from hard-lines to "make them look prettier") leading towards flexible-hose coming off causing catastrophic failure due to ATF loss. Keep it simple, do it properly and inspect ATF lines @ each engine-oil change.

Steel-lines are use in tight & hot-places to reliably-route past the exhaust, with flexible rubber-hose to accommodate movement between engine and cooler. Mr T. couldn't have made it any simpler, however, this has proven waaay too complicated for some? Problems fall into 2 categories, bodges &/or anal-stupidity.

If anyone comes across any further information re. this conversion, please post it on this page. If not, one fine day I may have a tinker with this and develop a conversion kit myself?

The supercharger set-up on this 1G-GZE would be the easiest to transplant onto a Supra, it’s a Toyota made Roots M90 charger and the 1G straight 6 cylinder 2.0 litre engine is not a lot different externally to the 1J and 2J engines. This could easily be developed into a 160bhp bolt on kit for 1JZ and 2JZ-GE engines. One of these running at it's max of 7-8psi with stock 10:1 compression, would turn an N/A into a tyre-smoking stock-T.T. Supra slayer. These units can be picked up in Australia for around $150AU. This conversion has been done by someone in Ireland, but I can’t find any details? There is/was also a part completed 1G-GZE supercharger onto 2JZA80-GE (N/A Supra) project shown somewhere @ Nengun performance?

N/A-T-ers with OE Auto or Hybrid A340E transmission may be interested in this? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=229&do=discuss