David P

I believe that part number is just for the sensor and not the gears?

There isn't an 89, but the 90 is same. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1990_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10R-AEPGKW_3505.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1990_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10R-AEPGKW_3510.html

I have done some more trawling through Toyodiy and have found that the no.1 speed-sensor gear-pair in 94 LS400 and 95 T.T. Supra are the exact same items? http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1994_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10L-AEPGKV_3510.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1994_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10L-AEPGKV_3505.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1995_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80R-ALPVZW_3510.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1995_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80R-ALPVZW_3505.html

I have had a look in my A340E repair manual and have discovered that I have been mixed up between the no. 1 & 2 speed sensors, I can only think this misconception originated from previously referring the useless diagrams in Toyodiy? Excuse me. Now that I have my sensors on straight, swapping in the gear-pair from this GS300 box I have will solve the problem.

The speedometer signal in this early LS400 A341E Lexus transmission is not compatible with the Supra speedometer. Further details in this thread; http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?351116-speedo-issues-after-1uz-conversion This issue can be remedied using a Speedometer Signal Interface such as this; http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd126.htm

After raking through Toyodiy, it would appear that the speed sensors are the same items on A340E and A341E transmissions, so by default the difference must be on the shaft inside the box.

There will be beers in the fridge and/or the kettle on stand-by. Looking forwards to seeing the Supra in one colour.

As I have never come across this issue, I have never looked into it. Stripping the no.1 sensor will be an easy enough one 10mm bolt job, but I can't get at it because there's another box in the way. Before I was a Spaz, I used to pick these things up with one hand.

Maybe it's me that is missing? Because the no. 2 speed sensor controls the speed at which gears-change, I have assumed that it also controls the speedometer. You could confirm either way by disconnecting one then the other on your T.T. and see what happens?

However, if you are correct re. the Lexus ECU & no.2 speed-sensor gear-pair being radically different, you will result with a speedometer that works properly but gear-changes that don't? I again suggest that you take a look at Mike or J's wiring before you start stripping Paul's box.

I do have a GS300 tiptronic box that will have a no. 2 speed sensor 4.083 gear-pair same as N/A Supra & Soarer. The only parts of this box that are any use to me are the prop-flange and sump, so you're welcome to the bits you want if you come and strip them? I can't do this for you because my spine won't let me.

I know that you have forgotten more about electrickery than I have ever leaned, however, this problem must be somewhere in the OE loom that you don't have? Both J_Meiser and Delboy52's V8 Supra conversions have between them had/have a selection of A340E, A341E and A343E boxes, yet neither have had this problem. Before you pull out what remains of your hair, I suggest taking a look at how their speed sensors and speedo('s) are wired up?

It's to the right of your knee, you'll see the access panel. The integration relay is behind the fuse panel and is a PITA to get at. Just home in on the ding dongs.

The buzzers are in the integration relay, which come in different flavours dependent on the Country made for and/or different model specs. The integration relay is located behind the fuse box in the drivers foot-well and can be identified by their different colours.

Sell the dicked ones you have to an idiot for twice the price you will need to pay for an un-dicked pair.

It's not the exhaust pipe diameter that causes "drone", it's the "trendy" (brain dead) huge tail-pipe diameter(s) that cause this!

Hybrids that also have shimmed accumulators are from no. 5 onward and retrofitted to no. 1. Hybrids without the P to D bump are from no. 13 onward, with the bump alleviating GE C-0 accumulator conversion retrofitted to no's 1, 7 & 9. I don't get much feedback, but I do try and keep records of the Hybrids as best I can.

However, I can guarantee this would merely result with encouraging incapable folks to dick up their transmission. To avoid this damn near dead-cert eventuality, that would of course become all my fault, I do this job for you whilst you wait, right before your very eyes, perfectly-properly and for a mere pittance. Should you not want to spend this pittance and in the bargain learn how to do this properly and also most probably save yourself a fortune, you are waaay beyond my help. Please post any further questions on the "Questions Answered Here" page. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=87&do=discuss Thank you.

Supra TuRD, or whatever your name might actually be? Excuse me, I missed your question that was posted in the wrong thread! In a nutshell, if you can't work out how to do these modifications from the vast amount of information I have posted in this Group, you don't stand a chance. For the benefit of those too lazy to read, about the only other thing I could do to make this attempt-able by the bemused, would be to make a How-To video, which with all of the boring old important things that can so easily go wrong being missed out to save further confustication of the already confusticated.

32101-30090 is used for 2JZA80-GTE Supra & Aristo. 32101-22050 is used for all other models with MA70, 1JZ, 2JZ and 1UZ engines from 1988 to 2005. The three differences between them are subtle and not obvious to spot, one is; the 32101-30090 (2JZA80-GTE Supra & Aristo) assembly paint spot, alternatively, is on the engine side of the plate (back), another is; the central plate is welded into the ring-gear the other way around, but the dead giveaway is; the 2JZA80-GTE version has larger bolt-holes for the torque-converter bolts. 32101-30090 has holes for 10mm torque-converter bolts. 32101-22050 has holes for 9mm torque-converter bolts. The flex-plate to crank sized-holes and the reinforcing-plates are same, however, the 32101-30090 is mounted with same-sized bolts of a higher spec that are identified by a no. "11" on the head.

18-months later and not a single pic of a single flex-plate has been received? During which time several have contacted me with Prisoner Messages, Want-Want Wanting to see pics showing the difference(s) between flex-plates! A little bit of giving would be of great help for all of the taking! Only 2 pics are required, one of an N/A flex-plate and another of a T.T. flex-plate, (ideally just one pic, of them side-by-side) as according to Toyodiy these appear to be the only 2 versions that are used for all models with 1J, 2J, MA70 and 1UZ engines.

The speed sensor is the same one on all of the A34#E boxes, it is the gear-pairs that drive it that are different within the different variants of the boxes. To correct your speedometer and more importantly, to have the gears changing at the correct engine rpm, fit a GS300 no.2 speed-sensor gear-pair into the tail-shaft housing on your A341E? box.

The no.2 speed sensor gear-pair are matched to the LS400 diff ratio. If the problem was originating from here, the gear changes would be chaos too.

Aristo box for £175. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173616106983?ul_noapp=true

It can be done on a lift and with a transmission jack, however, the job is far more "controllable" when done on axle stands and with an OE jack. Doing it on a lift also means that every little spring, bolt or washer that you drop will ping off somewhere into the darkness or under the bench and a lot of the continuously dripping ATF misses the drip tray. Doing it on axle stands, the ATF runs up your arms and off your elbows into my huge, squidgy & catches everything drip-tray, doing it on a lift the ATF runs up to your armpits and also down your neck until it drips off something else! My spine is in a bad state and "standing-still whilst looking-up with both-arms-extended" is my nemesis and I physically can't do that anymore. Standing-still for more than a minute traps a nerve in my lower spine, looking-upwards traps a nerve in my neck and holding both-arms-extended above chest-line traps another nerve in between my shoulders, any one of these "happenings" will floor me with "white-pain" for up to a week? A level drive on a nice sunny day or a floor inside a workshop is as good as it gets. Again, all of this information is in the Transmission Group, of which you are a member. I even wrote to you by p.m. offering to upgrade your transmission to the latest Hybrid spec, free of charge, on my new level concrete drive during the lovely weather we've had all summer. Now you know why!