David P

Would that be "bearing" or "beering"?

Tiptronic box tinkering. https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?360230-Aristo-transmission-(A340-LS)-Valve-body-gasket

Having accepted that shimming the accumulators is a preferable alternative, you won't need to split the valve-body. Which means that you don't need to concern yourself with availability of valve-body gaskets and have avoided a very tricky job. Just be careful not to break the gaskets if it has them?

I have never dismantled a Tiptronic valve-body, the one that I had I gave to Frank Bullitt. I don't understand how it could function without gaskets? The answer will be visible at the accumulator tops. I have pm'd and asked him to take a look and report back.

Whilst the valve-body is off, give the accumulator bores and solenoids a thorough cleaning with brake cleaner to remove any ATF varnish.

P.S. I have never used a Transgo kit, yet from looking at it online it appears to have gaskets in the kit? P.P.S. I have yet to see a transmission with a modified valve-body that is not too "fierce", my preference would be to leave the valve-body alone and shim-up the group of 3 accumulators by 10mm each. Which would save you a lot of intricate and very tricky work. DO NOT shim the single accumulator, just give it's bore a good clean. Take a look at this video of an automatic transmission with this mod, it transforms sluggish-shift changes into swift-slick changes. This is in a 500hp Supra and does not lose traction @ WOT when gears change. I have shimmed two members Tiptronic boxes @ 8mm, one is in a still part finished project yet have not received any video feedback re. the other. I have requested a video clip of the one that is in action and will post it when it turns up.

Have you tried asking a Toyota Main Dealer?

Moral of the tale. "Brembo f50 front breaks"

If you're talking about the sump pan, don't use a gasket because it will todger the pan. Just clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and reassemble with a bead of Loctite SI 5660. I have learned the hard way that transmission sumps become addicted to gaskets! The pan is pressed from light gauge steel and the 6MT bolts with a squidgy gasket underneath, 6.5 ft lb pulls the pan around the bolt hole into the gasket. This means that the originally flat surface around the perimeter of the pan becomes a rollercoaster by a millimetre or two between the bolt holes. The gasket however, should seal up, however, the problem will surface next time the sump is removed. Gaskets come in both rubber and cork flavours, with the cork version being twice as thick as the rubber. These different gasket thicknesses cause different size rollercoasters and you will find that you can't use a rubber gasket after a cork one has been used, but you can use a cork one after a rubber one has been used. If you are not aware of this, this simple job can be transformed into a proper wind-up. Do yourself a favour and don't use either of them, use sump sealant as OE. However, if you are actually asking about valve-body gaskets. Toyota Main Dealer or Amayama should be able to get you those. There are two different gaskets in the valve-body, one for each side of the separation plate. Don't trust aftermarket versions, they are not pattern correct. If you are stripping the valve-body, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber check balls whilst you're at it, by now they will have worn to be egg shaped. I'm not sure why folks expect me to keep squawking this information like a parrot because they are to lazy to browse in the Transmission Group; where I have taken great effort to explain this for their benefit, along with indexing everything else they could possibly wish to know? All you need to do is look! https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=176&do=discuss Maybe it's a not-so Smartphone thing?

Toyota Main Dealer or Amayama should be able to get you those. There are two different gaskets, one for each side of the separation plate. Don't trust aftermarket versions, they are not pattern correct. If you are stripping the valve-body, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber check balls whilst you're at it, by now they will have worn to be egg shaped.

Man-up and buy a proper Workshop Manual in Old Money.

[video=youtube;/SV_e4Wom6Ss]

https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=525546&d=1602115217

It appears that whilst your trousers were down, a Ferengi has penetrated your wallet! Maybe a wise TT auto owner who doesn't need this yet, will buy it to circumcisevent a future sore bottom?

I missed that, but at least he now knows which one not to buy and why.

It's an Aristo ECU, Supra air con doesn't work with these.

If the puncture is deemed too dangerous to be legally repaired by professional vulcanised means, must surely dictate that is is even more dangerous to be bodged with Tyre Slime.

Sudden power loss https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?360005-Sudden-power-loss

The resolution to this thread has migrated into another. Here........... https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?360081-Engine-ECU This now resolved thread has become a resource for the benefit of others who may experience this same problem. I have posted a link to this thread in the collection of Resolved Transmission Faults Threads in the Transmission Group linked below. https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?gmid=3132&do=discuss#gmessage3132 Please note that you cannot access the Group pages with a Not-so Smartphone.

A little bottle of injector cleaner in Vpower/Tesco99 fuel will do more good.

I doubt that it's the sole reason, without doubt however, it's definitely more than a straw on the camels back.

It is not my "rhetoric" that you are disagreeing with, but that of the many results of the research I have linked.