David P

There are now sooo many Supra's in the Club that are slammed on 19" wheels running 30 profile tyres, with hard as rock suspension, poly-bushed suspension joints and hefty anti-roll bars, that occasionally reminding such persons that even if they are becoming a sad majority doesn't make it best and their stance-riddled brains are not functioning correctly. Can only be a good thing.

Bignum could be forgiven for running a track oriented set up, because he leathers it round a track. Running a set up like this for road use is reserved for surviving brain donors.

The Club is accessible free of charge for all to see Supra Projects. What insanity could be more relevant than that?

That's exactly it again! This "another way" has become an 'alternative way', where Supra projects become hidden.

That is exactly it! What's the point in being a member of a specialist Supra Club and then hiding projects on Instagrunt, Fu(#witbook ad infinitum?

So you come on here for Supra Shat prattle, but don't like the flavour of the Project Threads??? Maybe you should start a Supra Shat page on Instagrunt, to save you slumming it on here?

Guess what? No need to reinvent the wheel. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/forumdisplay.php?147-mkiv-Supra-Projects Far more inspirational than Instagrunt or Fu(#witbook.

Where is Chris Wilson?

The sparrows like it. Sitting on top of the rear tyre is their new favourite perch, there are sooo many under there, there wasn't room for these three to get in.

Mrs Fox seems to like it?

It does look good in white and was one of the reasons I bought it, however, it is not an R Design, this is the SE Sport. Same D5 engine but with softer suspension, which is kinder for my spine, but there are some R Design bits I like, I already have facelift R design black leather seats and steering wheel ready to fit when the weather warms up and I'm looking out for an R Design front lip.

Pics

This D5 "thing" is swifter than a GTD thing.

Edit: Old Fart's Hot Hatch Warm Shooting-Brake. Planing to use the BSR system which can be re-tweaked with your own laptop.

I have a new a daily drive. After contemplating Audi A3 TDI and BMW 120D, the RWD and mpg of the 120D was tempting, but not as tempting as a D5 2.4 engine, so I forgave the FWD to chose the better looking and better equipped; Volvo C30 D5. It's a turbocharged oil burner with, 178 bhp and 295 ftlb. After servicing and tweaking it's auto box, with a better intercooler, K&N panel filter and a remap, it should be good for 240bhp 350ftlb whilst still averaging in the low 40's mpg and 50+ on a run. It's the SE Sport version, the suspension is kinder to my spine than the R Design, but will get an R design front lip to swap onto it. Breakers yards are full of these things that have been written off for the smallest of bumps and "desirable" parts are cheap as chips. It looks good and has plenty of grunt with light thirst, maybe the perfect; Old Fart's Hot Hatch?

Maybe the BMW sales patter is; "If you want to buy a Supra, it would be silly not to buy the Z4"?

Let me know when & where and I will come and be there for the start up?

But he also tells me that these Gizmo's would be "easy enough to make". If anyone want's the sole rights to make a pair of Gizmo's for further conversions using a Tiptronic transmission, please feel free, wrestling with resistors and dicking with diodes is not my thing. The 2-wire 12-pulse per final-shaft rev-signal needs to be split, with one of these signals divided by 3 and fed out with 2 wires yet the other signal fed in by 2 wires and exit with 3, "figure of adjustment" yet to be worked out? Purpose for/of 3rd wire to be defined?

The Tiptronic box has certainly bowled a wobbler at the last fence. It's a good job that you're existing ECU's can adjust for this. Shane confirmed that it would need 2 of these signal interface adjusters to keep the Supra or Soarer OE ECU & Systems happy. https://l.messenger.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dakotadigital.com%2Findex.cfm%2Fpage%2Fptype%3Dproduct%2Fproduct_id%3D126%2Fcategory_id%3D-1%2Fmode%3Dprod%2Fprd126.htm&h=AT3pp1YkIiU3CW4CfaD29T-oFiRWhJIA9cX0lYsQiCysgBpD2iJMB2zqX-SkSFsaMejJu7YZAMHGwARqKN4Aor65oz1f8kuwvx7YIYUgVtyKqLD_eP2uLXvJOiNMmX1Oi2d5gQ

Excuse me forgedding.

I wasn't sure if you were after GE or GTE components. Now that I understand you are after GTE, note that the flex-plate to crank bolts are the same size for both GE and GTE, however, the OE GTE bolts are a stronger spec. These stronger spec bolts are identified by a number "11" cast into the head.

2JGTE bolts are 10mm, 2JGE bolts are 9mm. The thrust plates are the same for 1JGE, 1JGTE, 2JGE, 2JGTE & 1UZFE. 1JGE, 1JGTE, 2JGE & 1UZFE all have the 9mm bolts. This info might help you pick up some pre-loved components and save you a few Krugerrand?

Now at last it is. Whatever you use it will crack, the different expansion/contraction of the different materials will make sure of that. The most important thing is to strip back to bare metal before bonding on the "fenders", the type of filler you finish it off with won't make much if any difference.

If folks could understand what your question might be, you would have had your answer a long time ago. Not even the Clubs Dick-licks-it members can work out what it is you are asking?