JS2004

Cheers Dunk, Ill get a sniff test done on it - however I have just been on the phone with Keron to find out prices of an NA-NA swap, or an NA-TT swap. I have been thinking of selling my NA and getting a TT for a while now and the price isnt too bad to be fair. The only thing concerning me about the TT conversion is potential insurance increase. N/A to N/A is going to be about £600 fitted. So need to weigh up whether its worthwhile doing the tests, to tell me what the problem is, and then fixing the problem against just pulling that engine out and putting a different one in. Hull to Keron is approx 85 miles.

Fair comment Dunk, but it is the first time in two years that the engine has let me down really. It didnt over heat as I had my eye on the temp gauge. Ive been watching that thing like a hawk after changing the coolant over ealier on in the day. All pipes had been warming up nicely and evenly, heater was blowing hot air, but it is possible there is an air lock in the system despite my attempts to remove it (parking on hill, toppingup with engine on whilst on hill etc etc). Ill price up a new engine. Probably need to speak to one of the breakers like Keron I imagine? I turned it on briefly this morning. Oil level is still at the full mark, coolant expansion bottle is now at half way, it was just under the full mark yesterday after I finished topping it with coolant. Exhaust fumes is white smoke, not too thick, but doesnt have the normal exhaust-like smell, has more of a chemical smell. No warning lights are being displayed. Engine sounds fine, no rattling or misfiring. Coolant pipes appear normal. When I unscrew the oil fill cap though there is a small amount of smoke that can be seen coming out, you have to look carefully to spot it though.

Was thinking that but theres no way of knowing what happened with the other engine - plus the costs of transport and dropping it in. Better the devil you know and all that. Is it likely the head is warped? As soon as I saw the smoke I pulled over so I have not driven it in this condition. Depending on what I am quoted to fix this though the new engine option could become more economical.

Starting to price up with the local garages - A head gasket change on a supra should be similar to other cars right? Does anyone know roughly how much labor is involved in changing the HG on an N/A ? I will be getting hold of all the parts. One mechanic I spoke to has so far quoted me the following Labor : To be confirmed, hes checking into this Skim of head & pressure test - £90 + VAT Parts mentioned: Water pump - Cost?? Cam belt - Cost ?? Head Gasket set - Cost ?? Trying to get in touch with some of the forum traders to order the parts - Is there anything else I need? Silicon hoses perhaps to replace the current hoses in the event oil is in the system?

I did check it in between, the last time it was properly full was 6 months ago, I remember checking it and it being a bit below full and put it down to normal usage probably around Christmas time as I was messing with the headlights. I don't use it very much its only this week really that ive got any proper usage out of it as its been laid up whilst I sorted the matrix and coolant out, plus the bad weather etc.. and ive been using a rental car from work for the vast majority of things. The self bleeding thing I read somewhere but come to think of it was probably for a TT. I have had it running on a hill whilst topping up and squeezing the pipes and all sorts trying to get air out. I know I put approx 2.8l of the concentrated toyota red 4life and roughly 2.6l of deionised water into the rad, and the expansion tank got about a 50/50 coolant and water in there and was just under the full line. *edit the warning lights didnt come on whilst driving it, but the connector for those lights is a bit dodgey on mine (trying to work out how to fix it). But when I was stationary, with engine ignition in position II the lights were on.

Ok if its a blown HG what stuff do I need? Seems plausible after several searches, white smoke appears linked to coolant / water and head gaskets. I dont know if the system was bled enough, but would air in the coolant system cause the head gasket to go like that ? I filled the system up, even had it on a hill with the engine on squeezing pipes etc to get all the air out with the heater on full. The top, lower rad hoses were hot, and I had a working heater (just in time for winter...wait.. nevermind). So I had assumed all the major air locks were out. Would a small air lock be able to do this? I didnt notice it overheating either infact the needle for heat was where it normally is.. The smoke coming out of the oil filler cap is what has confused me.. but if the HG has gone then its the coolant mixing with the oil right? Anyone had the HG on an NA fixed and can give me a rough idea of what the costs should normally be? Also a list of bits I need would help as I can start to put a shopping list together. Ill have a sniff test thing done ASAP from a local garage. Gutted.. was so pleased I had finally got the theater matrix working and the LED dash sorted out..

Thats not good then.. I was hoping it was the valve seals as that sounded like an easier fix. Sigh, just as I got everything working it goes and does this

Yup mate, exhaust for definate, and its the first time ive experienced this type of problem with the car.

Doesnt feel like it is misfiring so yes I think its still running on six.

Ok guys ive got home. RAC came out and recovered me - quite impressed with the service actually. We got it put on the back of a trailor and its now home so ill go over what happened in a bit more detail. Background for today - Changed coolant, connected heater matrix (which was changed a while back but I wanted to flush system first) Checked oil, noticed it was about 1/3 full so topped it up to full this afternoon. Was alarmed as I havnt drove it too far and it was filled approx 6 month ago. Ok so tonights events, I knew that the system still had air in (coolant) and that its self bleeding so I decided to take it out to help with that. Turned around to head back the way I was coming, empty road so thought why not, had a little play. It got to about 70, overdrive was off. Then there was a judder and a slight loss of power, and noticed the white smoke behind me (It did look cool..) So I slowed right down and pulled over as soon as it happened. Nothing like this has happened before and no leading problems so far. Incidently I have an issue with the intermittent warning lights as I suspect a faulty connection, but the warning lights were working. Keys in ignition, not turned on. Red oil and the orange engine one lit (Do these normally light when not running?) When its running the lights are not on. Turned it on, looked at the back, lots of smoke.. turned it off again. called RAC. AT this point, with key in ignition but car not turned on I had the three warning lights. Two oil ones and the orange engine light. The connector must have gone on the blink again though because now none of them are lighting up and they should be.. grr. Whilst waiting for RAC I opened the oil filler thing and there was smoking coming out of where you fill the oil. The coolant pipes are fine, and when engine turned on they do not feel pressurised. The trailer came and it was taken home and dropped off. I got in it to reverse into the parking spot, coolant indicator had gone down showing the engine wasnt as hot and there was no white smoke this time.. but I know the problem is still there. At this point I am suspecting valve seals - I did check to make sure it wasnt anything burning off - its definitely coming from the exhaust. It is white, thick smoke. If it was the head gasket wouldnt the coolant pipes start building pressure when the engine was on? Seals sounds plausible because I was alarmed at how much oil it had used since filling it up. Ill have a proper look tomorrow. Not sure what the costs are to replace the valves though.. is that worse or better than a head gasket?

typing this from my phone. Just on way home, put foot down to about 70 looked in rear view and there is a ton of white smoke. Pulled over. Smokes when idle too. The red oil can light and the orange one both on. Opened engine oil fill and there is smoke in there too. Is this a blown head and is it an expensive fix?

Ive had the dash out today and put it back in, noticed the normal ABS light and other lights did not show up when I put the key in the ignition. Took the dash apart again and fiddled with the connector. It is behaving as if the wires are crimped or just a bad connection.. Its currently working now after tapping the screen, but the roads round here are less than pothole free (some areas look like the moons surface) so it wont be long until its shaken back to the point of no lighty.. which I no likey. So I am reckoning its a bad connection (although the plugs in as far as it will go) or the wires themselves are damaged.. Are these easy to replace? I don't think its the dash part itself as I can squeeze the plastic covering around the bunch of smaller wires and this makes the lights show up again. Anyone had similar problems and got a way to fix it? I imagine its not too rare of an issue but all the searches I have done come up with results caused by not plugging stuff in, or fuses blowing.. neither of which is the case as it works, then doesn't, then does, then doesn't etc..

I am mid-coolant change. I have opened the little white stopcock thing at the bottom of the rad to drain out the coolant - its very brown.. I am filling the rad via the top with just normal tap water and have not turned the car on yet.. After I have "flushed" it a few times using this method of drain out and refill with clean water will it be okay to turn on and let run for a minute or two to open the thermostat and get some of the coolant within the block circulated so that can be flushed / drained etc using the same method.. or isnt that such a good idea? I am trying to flush it because I dont want to connect up the new heater matrix and have old coolant circulating around it.

I like those alloys.. what are they?

Needs the lenses though.. the colour config of the brake lights is one of my favourite aspects of the car.

It was fun but failed in such a huge way. During Beta numerous cheats and hacks were flagged up to the developers who didnt do anything about it.. 100 million in development, they went bust, sold it for 1 million.. so this new group of people bought it and hopefully they will fix it! Was really awesome drifting round corners chasing bad guys with someone hung out the window shooting

Yeah I keep seeing that name crop up.. I will be giving them a try for sure.

Agree.. name and shame..

http://www.gamersfirst.com/apb/ I believe the Cisco was based on the supra was a fun game, glad its back Hope they make it better!

So someone paid half of what was agreed and then took extra stuff just because you were not there and your wife answered the door..? Thats pretty bad and quite a crappy move by whoever did it.

Was that last picture a Puma Blue? I agree with Scott, the grey for me just breaks up the look a bit too much - it does highlight them and they do stand out, but for the look I am going for they stand out a bit too much. Definitely leaning towards either pre-facelift standard (60%) or facelift, with carbon wrap and the lenses (40%) both with the full LED conversion Heckler does.

Im sure its from clueless too.. i refuse to google it though =)

Haha I recognise the saying from a movie but cant remember which one - perhaps I have suppressed it into my subconscious as one of those I never want to remember.. Clueless though.. I think..?

Found the ones blueangel did in his thread: I would want to keep the lenses on though to keep the, what I consider 'Iconic', supra look. But the wrapped light insides do look rather nice.

Carbon fibre.. now there is an idea.. Wonder if the wrap stuff would be suitable for doing that with (thinking of heat from bulbs).