JS2004

That's good information to know Rider, thanks.

It's that time of year again and I am on the hunt for insurance for my reasonable condition n/a. I've read through some of the previous posts about agreed values, which isn't as much of an issue for an n/a, but I still want to have some sort of reasonable agreed value given that if I wanted to replace it id be looking 10-15k it seems. Has anyone had much luck with insurers this year? I was with Trinity lane via Adrian flux last year, and the year before, with an agreed value of 15k.. but the renewal invite is now using 'sabre' as the underwriter, and the price almost doubled. I am waiting on a call back from sky/safely but not expecting great things. They advised agreed value isn't an option also, so I've asked for them to request underwriters market value of a 93 n/a. I have tried Lancaster but they were higher than flux, using the same underwriter. I was told not owning a second car impacts the price, even if you are a named driver on another vehicle that you have access to. I have tried compare the market and admiral are offering a price similar to what I paid last year.. but then I figure if the wrist happened id have more of a fight to get a fair value. Sits on the drive sorned for 6 months and then taxed / used sparingly for the summer, I know prices go up but this seems a bit extreme to nearly double.

Yeah thanks for that info Keron. At least for now there's an option, although maybe I should look at a fiberglass boot lid instead of fixing rust in one place to only potentially have it show up elsewhere.

I've recently spotted some of the dreaded rust around the bottom left corner of my boot lid, underneath the rubber seal. It's not terrible, but has caused some bubbling. I've used silicone grease around the entire rubber seal of the glass as a temporary fix, but ideally need to sort the rust. Reading a few posts here people talk about the glass itself being a problem to find, and some body shops can't guarantee they won't break it etc. How hard is it to find replacement glass? I don't mind going aftermarket if needed, but I'm worried that I might need new glass and be unable to find any.. any thoughts or ideas ? Cheers

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. I'm leaning much further over to just keeping it with the Jspec bonnet on. I'll sort out the UK bonnet and might look to get it sold, although they're not exactly easy to post . I'll get proper pictures and work out what part of the scoop is on it and whether it's fully intact.

I have a UK bonnet that I bought many years ago, with the intention of swapping them over on my j spec NA. It got 'parked' as I ended up doing other things and ended up doing a full respray back in 2018 which kept the original J-spec bonnet. I was considering looking at using the UK bonnet, but have a couple of concerns. The cons / concerns: 1 - I'm not sure if the full scoop kit is intact (it's in a lockup so I can't just check), but if it is, I'm not sure if it fouls the NA engine in any way? 2 - Water - I'm guessing water can get in through the vent, and this sounds like it could be a problem. 3 - The sound deadening / lining was removed as it deteriorated during storage in a shed before moving it to a garage. 4 - Dust - As with water, I've seen posts about this being an issue. 5 - It's not a UK TT and this may make it appear as one (which ends up with 'nah, its not a TT' conversations). 6 - Id have to get it to a bodyshop, sprayed and fitted (I had started prepping it, so part of it is back to metal). The pros: 1 - I like the look. 2 - I really like the look. 3 - Could be useful / practical if I do look at turbo (although this isn't a priority at the moment). Any thoughts to help sway my mind? there are a lot of cons here, and I guess I'm trying to put myself off and perhaps look at selling it.. but that comes with its own issues as I would not want to try shipping it and looking at a few posts about their value it seems to have a wide range. Cheers

I am due to renew my insurance this month and was wondering how the agreed value works and whether it is worth trying to put one in place considering I have a standard auto N/A. I know the TT's and UK specs are where the big bucks are at but back when I first bought it (11 years ago) I couldn't stretch to a TT (car+insurance was too much at the time!). I've grown to love this thing and cant see me parting ways with it.. but if it did get written off I am concerned I couldn't replace it like for like. I've seen plenty on the forums about agreed values for big singles / TT's or UK specs but not a lot on N/A's. The only two in the classifieds that were NA were £13k for an auto aerotop and 7kish for a manual. Mines in good condition and has just had a full glass-out respray, hovering around the 105k miles mark. The guy I spoke to at Adrian Flux asked me how much I thought it was worth but said that its just a number they stick on the quotation - so just looking for advice if anyone has much experience around that. Id hate to lose it if the unthinkable happened and be left unable to replace it with whatever the insurance decided to offer.

Great stuff thank you - just sorted PayPal

Same as the above if these are still available please!

Just finished watching, wasn't a fan of the wheels and the spoiler did seem like a gimmick. Felt a bit alienated after only 10 mins in especially with the boy-racer comment. The only thing that really peaked my interest were the rear lights and interior re-trim. Shame that they didn't do anything with the engine.

Also interested

Thanks for the identification, info and pics! They are more of the look I'm after. Now to find a decent set of them in 18"

Hi guys, Long shot - but can anyone help identify what these wheels are in this picture please? I've currently got 'wolfrace sharks' which I am trying to refurbish - but the place has told me that the studs (to make them appear to be split rims) wont handle the shot blasting - so I've dug out this picture I saved from a while ago. I really like the twin 5-spoke silver look against the black bodywork but cloest thing i can find suggests theyre an AMG wheel with the wrong PCD (112, I need 114.3 I think!). Cheers!

Hi guys, So after the last few years of the paintwork on my NA Supra gradually deteriorating I have taken the decision to get it re-sprayed. I've done some research and found a spray shop that did work on a friends Supra and the work looks really good, so i'm booked in for a full Toyota black glass-out re-spray in September. I'm going to be replacing the window seals at the same time but is there anything else I should take into consideration? My next thing to consider is the bonnet - I bought genuine UK bonnet about 5 years ago from a fellow club member and just never got around to swapping them over. It is missing the inner fiberglass heat-shield but the the metal scoop fittings on the underside are intact. From what I have read here the heat-shield doesn't seem 'too' important and is also now tricky to get hold of, but it also sounds like there are modifications needed to stop the scoop vent from hitting the top of the manifold. Can anyone that has swapped a UK bonnet onto a J-spec NA help me work out what I need to do to the scoop, or whether it is something I can leave the shop to do? (the guy doing the re-spray is also going to be doing some welding work on the sills). The shop is about an hour away from my home and I would need to swap the bonnets over prior to the trip - although I am still undecided on whether to switch or simply stick with the j-spec bonnet as I like both looks. Also.. with the UK bonnet scoop.. how do I stop water getting into the engine bay, or is that something I shouldn't worry about? Cheers

Seen in a few threads about alarms draining batteries but only if they're left for a while. If it was a large company that did the install he could try social media route to get their attention. Or get the issue traced by a 3rd party to prove bad install? Bit of an awkward one !

Aye battery was over 12 when off - its an old multimeter with a needle but was clearly well over the 12.

Yeah that seems to be the issue. There was only a minor amount in the dizzy cap when we looked at it but it had been running so was warm - and it was the middle of the day which is not the conditions where the problem arises. The crack in the lead is probably where its getting in. Speaking to Keron and getting prices in morning so should be fixed soon - plus it doesnt hurt to change the plugs over and sort out the rocker at the same time. Thanks for the help / advice guys !

Update - been to see mechanic. Looks like moisture in the distributor cap and the connectors from the leads do looked so-so, but one of them was more worn. The HT lead into the dizzy itself is cracked near the housing and the plastic clip was quite brittle and broke off when we tried to move it. I will replace the dizzy cap and get some new or used leads. In addition to the above as the we spotted a leak on the rocker gasket cover so I will replace that and I will throw a new set of plugs in too! Shopping time.. Hopefully I can get my hands on all of this stuff! We are going to replace the plugs whilst we are at it and there is a slight leak on the rocker gasket cover so I will replace that also.. shopping time.

Update.. battery fine 12v plus when off, over 14 when idle.. also it did start after three turns.. now warmed up it starts on the first. So a bit odd but I'm going to take it into a garage anyways, but may have to wait until Saturday and just get a lift into work. Any advice on what I should do between now and then ? Should I try to start it daily ? Distributor cap has a bit of oil around it bit the leads 'look' okay - although not sure what I should be looking at. It's currently idling fine.

Haha yes - I should have checked. Just assumed with all of the cold weather and short journeys that I had worn the battery down a bit. Now that I am home I will have a look around and see what (if anything - mechanically limited myself) I can do. It is a shame the garages close by the time I have left work!

I don't have a battery charger unfortunately but do have another car I can hook it up to with jump leads. A lot of short, slow journeys recently commuting and yes, heater and rear heated windscreen are on (guessing that is what RHW means?). Will have a check with a few mates and see if they have a charger I can borrow for a week or so too along with checking what Scooter has suggested. If it isn't starting when I have it connected to the second car would that rule out the battery as being the problem?

This does make sense to me yes - the battery seems to die as a result of the failed start. Over the last couple of weeks it would eventually start but sometimes I had to leave it for the battery to 'recover' and go back to it. I will search for threads on Dizzy / Rotor arm & Leads and give them a check

Hey guys, Looking for a bit of help with this one - filled out the template below with some extra info Model: JSpec Auto ECU: Stock What the symptoms are: Under what conditions they occur: Failure to start. Engine makes turnover sound but doesnt catch and the sound gradually gets slower / quieter When it happens: Happened this morning, but has happened a few other mornings recently (but does start eventually) When it started to misbehave: Approx 2 weeks ago started to see the issue What you've tried to do to fix it: I have cleaned the battery connectors and taken it for a long drive when it did start What effect those fixing attempts had: Seemed to improve initially but has returned Extra info Recently when starting from cold the engine turns over but doesn't start. Normally fires within one or two 'chugs' (not sure how else to describe the sound), but recently it will take 5-10 before starting, however this morning it didn't start and the sound was as if the battery was dying. Issue started about 2 weeks ago and I took it for a longer drive to try and charge up and cleaned the battery clamp connectors (they were fuzzed up with white stuff) with a wire brush. It feels like a battery issue but I want to check before buying a new one. Alternator was changed about 3 yrs ago to new and the starter motor was refurbished around the same time. I will do a voltage check tonight when I get in. From other posts it looks like I should see 12.5+v when car is off and 14+v when it is on?? If the alternator is charging okay I will run and get a new battery - Halfords HCB005 looks the way to go from the battery thread. I did spot these portable battery pack things like the ones used for phones.. has anyone on here tried using them? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Suaoki-Emergency-Intelligent-Rechargeable-Flashlight/dp/B01ESJ34II/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1483953254&sr=8-20&keywords=car+battery+jump ? Cheers guys

Cheers - just looked those up. I may have my hands on one sessanta in my size. According to Vredestein they have discontinued them in my exact size which is a bit unfortunate. May have found one in Leeds but they wont deliver. Got a few local garages checking stocks too. A bit reluctant to get rid of my remaining one as its got plenty of life left in it. Not the best situation but could have been worse!

Hi guys, Just had a blow out this morning.. rear passenger. Tyre is completely off the rim. Managed to control it and get to the hard shoulder so all good.. but now I need to sort out a new tyre! I had vredstein ultrac sessantas, which are about 3500 miles old (fitted last year I think) - but unfortunately they seem to be discontinued. In the process or ringing around to see if anyone has them in stock.. but if not I will need to get some different ones. Got a couple of questions though about that if someone could give me some advice! 1) Should I ideally replace both if I cant find the same brand / tread pattern (sessantas are weird in that the tread patterns go in different directions - http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=656514&stc=1&d=1331499245 ) 2) If I cant get hands on those.. any suggestions on similar types? I remember spending ages researching tyres before but I need to get this sorted pronto as I need to be travelling for work. Cheers