ShawnPreece

Thanks mate was all primed and prepped going in for paint yesterday afternoon so should have more photos today/tomorrow from the respray

Thanks mate yeah thats the plus point about doing it a second time I can put more attention to detail as I now what the end result is of these bits minor differences should make a massive difference when its done this time

Perfect yeah let me know if you do bud and il take it off your hands

Awesome guessing your wanting a carbon one are you? if you do then let me know and il be interested in taking it off you usually id ask for condition but think thats a given so would be a silly question as its coming from your car

Was looking at buying a carbon one from whiffbitz but I have a stainless cover anyway so wouldn't be worth it really although carbon will still be considered. Anyone got one in excellent condition? (no cracks or broken bits anywhere whether big or small) Its a TT one that I need as its a UK Spec. If no reply in the next few days il try the traders but thought id try here first

Looks beautiful mate think il be looking into one of these in my later stages too, great results on the dyno aswell I noticed the video on facebook thats going to be epic to drive

One of my favourite bodywork updates to date.... Anyone who has ever had a Ridox widearch kit will know my pain that when fueling up the petrol cap only opens to a very limited angle so putting fuel in was always tricky without scratching paintwork etc... plus the look of the kit had a big open cutout at the start of the cap to allow it to even open this much which I never liked... well no more... The existing petrol cap and hinge have been modified so not only can I now open it fully to make fueling easier but also looks flush and alot tidier in my opinion The first photo is of how it used to be on my kit and the last 2 photo's are of how it is now

Sounds good mate I visit Aberdeen quite regular, welcome to the forum got any pics of the new purchase?

You need a journey up for a burger mate and can pick them up the same time

Looks awesome Tim looking forward to hearing what it sounds like

The middle figure is in relation to the tyre wall size and is a percentage of the width so the 245/40/18 tyre that you are looking for means the tyre wall size is 40% of 245 (98mm) and the tyres Burna is selling are 245/45/18 so the tyre wall is 45% of 245 (110.25mm). Width and Rim dimension size wouldn't change so no new rims are needed they will fit direct onto your existing wheels it would only be the tyre wall size that is effected. There are pro's and con's to changing this size, one of the main pro's and I think the reason Burna got them is the improved ride comfort. Burna GLWS

Nice to see its time for final mapping hope all the teething issues are sorted and the car will be running perfect after all the time and effort gone into it look forward to seeing it at wroxhall

Was a great event nice to see you all and meet some members iv not met before also a thanks to Gary for organizing and also for the use of your jack

I am going but not on a stand so I wont be as early as that, will see you at Silverstone though bud

Some great work mate love this project

Id agree with the above comment from Harley but thats an impressive list of components in the what you had planned list so id probably say it would be worth selling those separate, the full V161 conversion and the syvecs kit alone wouldnt be a long way off £10k without the rest and the car is worth alot more than £11k to make the difference

Sorted the Supra last night mate so it will be there do you know of any jet wash close to the area? its really dirty and may aswell clean it in the area rather than before a 3 and a half hour drive lol

Yeah that was one of my main suspicions so I put a jump lead from the negative terminal on the battery to the inlet manifold but had no change, turned out to be a bad connection on the live from the battery Thankyou very much Chris much appreciated, after trying out a few of the potential scenarios and measuring the voltage across battery terminals (12.6v) and various places I saw a huge drop from battery positive to live on starter motor so I put a jump lead from the positive terminal on the battery to the main power in on the starter motor then turned the key and it started fine, then knowing that it was to do with the main wire going from the battery to the starter motor I thought first thing was to disconnect the clamp off the positive terminal on the battery and give the terminal a good cleanup with a low grade sandpaper and then fired up perfect and working fine now was confused because I thought as the starter motor was giving a click that there must of been power there but I guess it was receiving less power due to a bad connection. Thanks again for your help

Always go for a decent name, I once bought one that was a company called discoball or something like that and didnt even fit in the slot properly from external dimensions, I then got a JVC replacement and perfect

Thankyou very much Chris il give that a try as soon as I get home and see what I can find

Just had a good and a bad surprise... I was planning to change the starter motor tonight but Dad just called me and said as he knew I wanted the car for tomorrow he's been out and changed it for me... however the same problem is still there... I turn the key and all I get is 1 click and it doesn't even try to fire, it is every time I try and start it that I have 1 click but its never more it is only 1 and it is coming from the starter motor, does anyone know what else I can try? only thing that springs to my mind now is to check all the earth's but would I even get 1 click from the starter motor if the earths was the problem?

Thanks Chris thats perfect Unfortunately ramp isn't set up yet (still building shed for it) but to gain a little extra height we used a forklift to lift the front end up and put 2 concrete blocks under the front 2 wheels then dropped it down on those, abit industrial but nice and secure plus a little extra height maybe I should put that down the other arm after

Ahh ok thanks mate I shall have a go later and see Yeah its all about that top bolt but im sure after reading that post I should be able to have a good crack at it tonight was just mainly trying to avoid dropping the gearbox but if its wrigglable (not sure if thats a proper word ) then thats great and would save alot of time Yeah thats a good shout mate Cheers mate il have another go tonight, was only really late last night in the dark with a torch having a look last night so hopefully il be ok after gaining abit more info off here now too yep battery is still disconnected from last night, was the first thing I done before looking into it Yeah definitely agree with this is already disconnected from last night