Yaz

Right, did the lemon trick with o2 sensors and use carb cleaner, didn't work, then have put in two other sensors ordered from keron, and still over fueling with engine management light on. I've had enough of this, might just go and burn the damn car! Before i do, would it be worthwhile for me to take remove the 2nd cat and exhaust system, and replace it with a high flow sports cat/ exhaust system? People help me

Yeh, the ecu has been reset. since then, i discovered that it has two o2 sensors, so had them taken out and cleaned, put them in and reset the ecu, the light went out and car drove fine for 30 minutes, then light come back on and the same problem. Tried the paperclip method and the light doesn't flash and remains on. So not showing any codes, although there must be codes as the light is on. Previously, it was code 12 and code 21. could it be that the o2 sensors are totally messed, and could it be that the 2nd cat has been messed up too due to over fueling and 1st cat being clogged so badly? help! lol

Have you checked the idle speed control valve or throttle position sensor?

thanx

Can anyone help with telling me exactly how many and what sensors are there on a j-spec n/a? i know there are two O2 Sensors. What other sensors and how many? any response appreciated please...

Code 55 is for the rear knock sensor. The ECU is not getting a signal from the sensor. More than likely the sensor will need replacing.

As per my message, it worked for abit, so still require the sensors... Cheers

Right, the garage guy has ordered two O2 Sensors from Keron, hopefully they will arrive quickly...

Right then folks, I didn't know the car had two O2 Sensors, the first one is all ok, the second was covered with loads of dirt, probably because of the clogged cat which has since been reomved. The garage chap cleaned the sensor, put it back, started the car and hooray the engine management went out and the car was running fine. The ecu was reset and I picked my car up. However, 30 minutes of driving, and the light has come back on with the same symptoms... Now would anyone agree with me that the O2 Sensor(s) need replacing full stop?

It could a number of problems, I currently have exactly the same problem with my 93 n/a, and mine is over fueling. Initially it had the same symptoms as you have described, so I had the ISCV changed, and now although it idles normal and doesn't stall anymore, it is still running rich. So, now I'll be looking to change the o2 sensor. By the way, do you have any excess smoke coming out of exhaust? If you do, then black smoke means over fueling and white means running lean. Either way, it could be your ICV or TPS.

Am I correct in thinking that in order for a code to be stored, the orange engine management light must come on and stay on, indicating that the ecu has diagnosed some form of problem, normally sensor related. I might be wrong but I thought that just the red master warning light along with another warning light ?(i.e brake warning light) then a code will not be stored. If the brake fluid is full, then must be sensor related, either brake pedal sensor or handbrake sensor. But if the light comes on only when you press the brake pedal, then it could also be to do with your brake pads, as one of them might be leaking. I know the warning light will activate not only if the pads are worn, but also if they are leaking. Might be worth a good check at Kwik Fit, or any other garage for brakes...

Meant to say there are no breaks in teeth, the cambelt is all ok

The camshafts are in line with crankshaft, and no breaks in teeth, that is all ok, anything else from anyone else please? Still waiting for O2 Sensor replacement...

I would top up the brake fluid and see if that changes it. I know of a common problem with high performance car is when you hit the throttle as speed, the power and force cause the handbrake to lift slighting, therefore causing the lights to light up, but that isn't what you are on about. It's a strange one. Might be the brake pedal sensor. When you say master warning light, do you mean the red light with exclamation mark in the speedo? Or the orange engine management light?

Is it N/a or TT, and do you get any warning lights come on when you turn the ignition? Could be starter motor sticking.

Hmmm, I think that's one thing we haven't checked, good point, will do that, cheers dude, appreciate it

By the way, I forgot to say that after returning from holiday where the car drove fine for two weeks, when the first problem occurred, upon checking the oil level, it appeared there was no oil in the engine whatsoever, so this was filled up immediately. Could it be that this may have damaged the pistons/ rings? And would this be causing the problem? Although, bearing in mind the car ran fine after the de-cat. So all this doesn't make sense. When it was de-cat, the engine management light no longer remained on constantly, and the car ran beautifully for that period of 15 minutes. Then back to the problems.

Can anyone tell me whether a TT lamba sensor will work on an N/A?

Also i think if you go on the items for sale page, a few are going there for quite cheap...

I have checked, although i have the whole mechanism for the driver side, quite sadly the plastic bit you are on about is also broken on mine (what were the odds of that eh) I previously had two, but couldn't remember which one I had left. Sorry dude. If it's any help, I know Keron (Extreme Performance) or Jezz (QSD Performance) can most likely provide you with this part. You can find their details in the 'Community' - 'Members List'

Yeh don't see why not, it should fit mate

That's what I meant, I do have a driver side one as in the picture above, however the plastic bit on top of the picture as you look at it is broken. If yours is still intact, then you might be able to swap the plastic bit?

I know the garage have taken the O2 Sensor out and it was quite dirty, so gave it a really good clean and put it back in, and the problems continues. Is there a high chance that it is going to be the O2 Sensor, because either way it is going to get replaced. In the meantime, has anyone else got any other ideas what might be causing the over fueling? I know it could be alot of things, but any ideas will help...

I think you might need a new motor as if I'm correct in thinking is the copper wire connected through the motor? The other guy's post before your's has broken a plastic bit on the window, I've told him that I'll have a look tomorrow as I think I've got his part, as well as yours. Will let you know tomorrow...

Right guys, i really need some help now. My supra j-spec n/a has been in the garage for a month, and it is still over fueling or running too rich. It all started like this: I went away on holiday for 5 weeks and left the car on the drive. When I got back, as expected, there was no battery power, so got my mate with his jump leads to start the car and so it did. It drove perfectly fine after that for two weeks. The only thing I noticed was that it was drinking a little bit more than usual. Then one day, when I got back home and was about to reverse the car onto the drive, the car cut out totally and I thought it had stalled. It took me a few attempts to start it and as I managed to reverse it onto the drive, I noticed an eggy type smell. There was hardly any power and the car was struggling. There was black smoke pouring out the exhaust. The eggy smell then disappeared and turned into a strong smell of petrol. The engine management light had activated. So I called a mate of mine with the bug machine, but was unsuccessful in retrieving any codes. The car was stalling, poor/ rough idle, would not go above 3k rpm. I took it to a garage nearby, and they said that the 1st cat needed replacing, as well as a rotar arm and dizzy cap. But they said they didn't know why it was over fueling. I then used the paperclip method to get the codes, and although it didn't do anything, on one occasion I noted that it showed me Code 12, which relates to the Camshaft Position Sensor/ Crankshaft Position Sensor. On another occasion, it showed Code 21, which relates to the Oxygen Sensor. I then took to another garage, where it has been since. The guys there took the first cat out and the engine management light went out and the car was running perfectly. So I collected the car and drove it home, and after the 15 minute journey, the same symptoms returned, so it's now back at the garage. A compression test has been done which was all ok, but the spark plugs have been replaced anyway. It has also had a new rotar arm, the idle speed control valve has been replaced. It idles ok now, but still struggling to go over 4k rpm and still running rich. I am looking to replace the O2 Sensor now. I'd love to get the car to Chris Wilson or Keron, but the car is in solihull and can't risk driving it. Can anyone please help me???