PDowdy

brill, thanks very much Chris!

Hi guys, after a bit of quick info if anyone knows. If I buy a uk spec bare long block will that work with all other j-spec components, as in loom injectors etc ?? Any one have any ideas ?

you have pm!

Keron, you wouldn't have a jspec TT bare engine in amoungst this lot would you ?

oh should have said I'd be happy with an aristo block or any other block that's the same.

Just seeing if anyone has a j-spec 2jz gte block for sale. I only need the head and man block, no inlets, turbos or looms. I'm just seeing if it would be cheaper/easier to replace the block rather than strip mine down get it out and recondition it. If its a choice of a full engine vs recondtioning mine I'll have to try recon it fist as can afford a whole new engine at the moment. If anyone has one just let me know, thanks

got to! twins wont fit.

here it is just for the 66% of you

to answer a few questions...... this is actually being done:) the Transit in question is the grey one in this clip Luke (transitvanman) built both those vans, the white one was the 1st modern shape Transit to have a YB fitted (it's standard in the clip) the grey van his own van has a standard BOA and runs 16second 1/4's - in the clip it ran an 18 as it was in the early stages of development - as for the axle etc. its a modified Dana 60 with LSD (wasn't fitted in the clip) stuff like brakes suspention is all uprated from standard

yeah we did but it was still spitting a bit of water... not sure if that screwed the test but it showed 235!!!

Yeah sorry - was water I found in the cylinder.. appeared after the spark plug was removed. Drained most of it out and what little was left was spat out is it turned over.

Hi guys - I'm in serious need of some advice, all help greatly appreciated. Let me give you the full history. About 3 months ago my radiator blew in my 95 j-spec TT auto. Never got to the bottom of why but replaced with a new alloy one and relocated into a dedicated oil cooler. Never had any more heat problems before or after - but when it blew the engine temp was off the scale for about 5-10mins (was stuck on motorway when it happened). 3 months on and a slow drip leak from the oil filter meant I was changed the oil last weekend. Couldn't get the filter off originally and needed it to be running, so just changed the oil n left the old filter. 3 days later and big vibrations at idle on way home from work, next morning wouldn't start. Checked and big pool of oil under the car. Replaced the filter, cleaned all the oil and chucked some new oil in... left overnight and no sign of any more leaks. Today got mate to do a compression test. Took coil packs n sparks out and found the 6th cylinder (nearest to driver) full of water. Drained the radiator and did the compression test. Results below... also appears to now be a trace of water in the oil. Now we (rather my mate as he's the mechanic!) think its the head gasket. I'm open to other possibilities, has anyone seen anything like this before or had a similar experience ?? Cylinder Dry Wet 1 150 170 2 150 161 3 147 163 4 150 161 5 142 161 6 Didn't try as still had some water in (the compression meter isn't calibrated so figures may be a little off) Any ideas ??

Yeah they're low offset so sit flush with the arches, they're not hiting the liners but actually clipping the inside of the arches - white car so easy to see black rubber marks on the inside of them. Chees for he info guys, tink I'll have to get the arches rolled and I think I'll try and use this as a way of convincing the missus I 'NEED' new suspension!

Hi, I've just upgraded to some 18'' wheels to replace my stock 17s. I'm still running wih standard suspension and wondered if anyone else had issues with 18's hitting the rear arches ? Seems if I boot it on the flat or get some compression from hilly roads at speed the the arches squeal at me. I'm looking at getting he arches rolled but want to know i this is normal or is this showing up some issues wth my suspension? These are 18'' rota drifts supplied by Paul btw , 9.5'' rears.

Is the FCD still available ? If so I'll take it.

Muchas gracias for the replies, I'll check with Ryan - didn't realise he was mobile!!

I'm currently upgrading to BPU and I'm thinking about a piggyback ecu (either AEM or Emanage)and remap once done. Can anyone recommend someone up north - preferably Yorkshire way - who's experienced with remapping supra's ??

Patrick you could have a look at the whiftbitz replacement for the oem one. Says on their website it'll run a small single setup. http://whifbitzperformancetuning.co.uk/toyota-supra-intercoolers-garage-whifbitz-p-2018.html

Not sure of that exact one but the thread size isn't to hard to measure. Just measure the width and the number of threads per inch and then google a thread size chart. I'd expect it to be in BSP.

sorry if this is an obvious question but I wasn't totally sure after reading through this. Does a jspec require a restrictor ring if you're fitting an electronic boost controller ?? Is it ok to run both ?? (I'm guessing yes but just want to double check)

I'm in Rotherham, was going to suggest popping up and taking a look at these, only problem is all my spare time is going into doing up my house to sell it. I'm going to have to put hunting for new wheel son hold for a week or two. I'll pm you when I have more time and see if you still have these available.

Does this just bolt straight or does it need a flange/adaptor thingy ?? Is it a supra specific kit, or just the bov on its own.

All gorgeous dogs.... I don't have a dog so here's my baby.... she's a 1.5 year old lesser sulphur crested cockatwo.... waving for a sunflower seed

I know naff all about offsets and technical stuff about wheel fittings... does anyone know if that offset and size means they'll clear UK brakes ??

Quite interested in these...have you looked into refurbing them then ? Any idea of rough price to do them all ? Also do you know if these will clear uk brakes ?