scoooby slayer

thanks for the offer and il bear it in mind if i break, engine should be out in the morning, ive been busy tonight getting it ready.

thanks for all the opinions i am taking it all on board. im not sure what to do yet engine is almost out not sure if im gonna rebuild or sell yet. ive just done a few sums : shell complete with all interior and number plate on hks coilovers £2000 greddy brakes £5000 new £2200 clutch £2700 new £1350 volk rays gtfs also have 1 new front and rear rim with 295/30/19 r888s £4500 new £2250 full hks t51r spl kit £5000 new £2500 2 heads both worked and a pair of 272 cams £2000 the lot 6 speed box, propshaft and carbonetics diff £4000 full 4.5" custom exhaust with screamer back into middle box, 3 silencer system a work of art £1500 jun surge tank (plenum) super rare £1500 hks fcon v pro ecu, hks evc boost controller, hks oil and exhaust temp £1200 the lot hks intecooler with all the hardpipeing and hoseing £800 big hks oil cooler and relocation kit £100 custom pro alloy water tank that fits around spare wheel £250 1000cc injectors, twin entry rail all braided lines and twin in tank pumps was running 788 hub hp £800 need inspecting but a full hks 3.4 stroker kit all pistons should be good as compression was good, will have to check the crank and rods. this is not a for sale thread im just trying to decide on what to do.

well i am little surprised tbh the general consensus being £2k or below. i absolutely love the car i have always thought it looks stunning, i certainly dont need to break it for need of the money but trying to put a price on it all. how much does your average arch widening cost then ? the front is do luck blister wings rear is all custom and arches are fully delipped opened right out aswell in the inner arch, ive had 305/45/18s on the back aswell no issues.

i bought the car done, it cost the original owner a fortune to build, im just priceing stuff up half price, like the brakes i have the receipt for £5000 so i price them at £2500 etc.

no i dont have to break it and probably wont, im just priceing it up, engine has a bottom end knock so i gotta get the lump out and check the crank.

they are hand made, the rear quarters were cut out and spaced out then hand made welded in, lead filled welded areas, just a light skim of filler for paint surface. basically it looks like the car came from the factory like it. its an awesome job.

easy to blend with filler, not so easy to make a metal arch and lead it.

£2000 ! just the do luck blister wings, side skirts and rear diffuser cost that alone ! this is not your average shell is it, no crtappy rivot widearch stuff, proper widebody full kitted full interior shell.

just a curiosity thing ive looked around but cant find a shell for sale to compare for price. 46000 miles 2 owners 2000 model do luck kit proper widebody body all moulded. mint shell imagine complete shell with number plate all interior but no mechanicals just rolling on hks coilovers with no brakes and some cheap rims, im thinking £5000 is that realistic ? i have receipts for some of the bodykit and all the mods to the body, the rear arches are lead my receips are for £7000 and that doesnt include the spray job.

jesus thats fast, i thought my 6 seconds was fast, how many gear changes where in that 1 or 2 ?

having some mapping done next week, but i cant find any info of max rpm for the hks 3,4 stroker ? it seems im currently at 7600 rpm but that seem a bit conservative. ive searched online but cant find any info ?

awesome 9.7 @ 150 as thats your fist time out i guess theres more to come to ? a highly tuned r35 gtr is imo just about the best all round car money can buy, just need £150000 to buy/build one.

nice one jamie trapping 146 mph, where you in 4th or 5th at the finish ?

whats pooh pooh about garrett then ?

well its potentially saved me £3000 for a hks t51r spl

it seems the general consensus is use a 1mm restrictor for dbb turbos. my hks t51r spl which is basically a garrett gt4202r has been a bit whiney so to speak at idle. so i checked with garrett and the ball bearing turbos need to see around 40 psi oil pressure at the oil inlet to the turbo at max engine rpm/max torque and minimum 15 psi hot oil at idle. so i rigged up a gauge in my oil feed between the 1mm restrictor and the turbo inlet flange, i had 8 psi oil pressure warm oil flat out ! so ive drilled the restrictor out to 2.5mm and thats got me to 35 psi flat out oil at 90c. so just a word of warning really the restrictors are only to be used if the oil pressure is excessive. and a caption from garrett themselves " Ball Bearing Turbo "An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 - 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger's internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040' orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in insure that the components are functioning properly. Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications. " "OIL LEAKAGE SHOULD NOT OCCUR ON A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING SYSTEM IF RESTRICTOR IS NOT USED UNLESS THE SYSTEM PRESSURE IS EXCESSIVELY HIGH. " " the slight whineing noise i had at idle is now completely gone so i can only put it down to a bearing whine due to not enough cushion of oil. so basically they are saying around 40 psi is recommended to prevent turbo damage.

how much have you got out of a stock prop fella before twisting ?

whatever way you look at it fella still a 1000 hp car, and 4200 rpm is a good improvement from the last dyno graph i saw, wheres ur redline ?

nice result jamie, what rpm are you making full boost or top of the start of the torque curve ?

im not saying the skim made any difference it didnt it cant, but i do know 5 of my 10 brake pads where seized solid in the calipers so must of been binding. nothing else has changed except skimming the flywheel also as the clutch wasnt sitting flat on it.

discs are 34mm new, mine measure 33.6mm. - - - Updated - - - well the h and r spacers finally arrived so i got the car off the ramp last night and took it for a blast. all ive done is had disks skimmed, cleaned and greased all pads so the move freely and fitted new clutch hub carrier ring and had flywheel skimmed and my wot fueling has gone from 11.4 to 10.6 afr ! i could feel it aswell, hits 10.3 as i come on boost now which is so rich i could feel it starting to misfire ! so the engine must be under less load now so needing less fuel, so ive droped the fuel pressure off slightly so im back at 11.4 again. the brakes fel 100% perfect now, 100 mph hard on the brakes no judder or squirming just pulls up in a dead straight line. my base fuel pressure is running nearly 4 bar, god knows why it was mapped like that its ridiculous im hitting 6 bar rail pressure at 2 bar boost ! so i think i may get mgt to map it soon at 3 bar base pressure at least it will give the pumps an easier time.

heres mine supposed to be 75 mm wider each side but in reality id guess its 50mm wider each side ive never measured it though.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Disney-Princess-Car-Booster-Seat-Cushion-in-Pink-/380448789152?pt=UK_Baby_CarSeats_EH&hash=item589483d2a0 that is the closest i can find to what i have in the supra and it fits perfect, also need an autosafe clip though aswell http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autosafe-Seat-Belt-Height-Adjuster-New-Seat-Belt-Adjuster-/190685576693?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c65befdf5

what he said, ive just put one on my gtr, brand new £400 on ebay and it was plug and play my old skyline ran 500 whp on a power fc on twins no bother.