-Welsh-Stealth-

Bit of a read there Jay Agree though alot of people are failing to change their opinions on a company who have had alot of bad products etc in the past. I think people need to be aware now that these products are actually improving and aren't causing so many people's toys to go flying outa their prams.

Cheers guys! Bet you can't wait for Leave Al

fair one... not like its £1200+ engine ha ha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UUiszgjjjswMi-kh9JPH7byw&v=Y_mvzlCMIP4&feature=player_detailpage http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-7cbDLbYfI&feature=player_detailpage

right its been months since i've touched this thread. and there has been a good couple of NA-T's made so it's about time i finished this and put it to bed! as im thinking of going further with my NA-T and have bought a new engine to do so anyways back to where i left off: after waiting a good few days for competition clutch to get themselves into gear, we finally got the correct clutch... origionally we had waited a good few days and the clutch hadnt even been sent so me and Craig sent Ali (a good mutual friend and 200sx owner) to kidderminster to collect his and my new clutch....however upon arrival he origionally walked out with the wrong sx clutch. so he went back in and corrected there slight mistake... then, after the couple of hours drive back down to Cardiff(in wales)he arrived late at night. for us only to find that he was also given the wrong clutch...it was for the getrag not the w58...at this point we all got slightly, upset... anyway Craig politely got onto his contact who then promised he would bring down the correct clutch the next day personally... so i stayed in bed and waited for the call from Craig. after the phonecall& the short train trip from Hereford i arrived at the garage to find Craig was unable to control himself and fitted the CORRECT clutch as seen in the pics. nicely the clutch came with an alignment tool so with the clutch now on the back of the engine we set about putting the gearbox back on. it was only a few bolts, nice and easy. then we set about getting it back in. luckily we had Craigs little garage gnome to hand who helped us watch it in. first things first we lowered it onto the engine mounts and left it connected to the engine hoist. and got underneath and re-attached the prop shaft to the gearbox. nice and simples. slots in with a couple of bolts here& there.taking it apart you will see how it goes back together then was the task of connecting all the powersteering lines, the loom to the ECU& piggyback. i set about putting all the powersteering lines back together and pocked through the loom just above the passengers footwell for the ECU. i let Craig crack on with the wiring of the Emanage piggyback ECU as to fair i didn't have a clue and i HATE electrics! he set about doing it with info from the NA-Tclub and from cross referencing from his own NA-T track car, and eventually got it working. if you have any questions on this i'd fire them his way! we had had the time to check the fmic piping, so marrying it back up was nice and easy. fitted the exhaust to the downpipe& the downpipe to the turbo. nice and easy, couple of gaskets. two nuts and bolts on the 2nd decat pipe- downpipe and a clamp from downpipe-turbo. and not forgetting to connect the radiator backup with the hsoing aswell with everything back in& back in place plus more time to check everything was tightened up and connected properley for the oils and lubes. so nice shiney new oil went in(10w 40 part synthetic castrol magnatec for me), fresh powersteering fluid and fresh red coolant! with everything back in i also set about wiring in the aem afr gauge and the apexi boost gauge. it was nice and simple. find where you want your gauges and work around it. the aem came with a nice simple screw in lambda and as with both gauges i found a gromit the drivers side of the dash just behind the ignition barrel. i took a live and earth from the clock loom which i removed for the aem afr gauge to sit in place of. the afr gauge as with the boost gauge came with the instructions. so it was nice and simple to wire in. with the booost gauge i tried wiring the ilumination wire to the ilumination wire of the clock but had dramas, causing the side lights to stay on and the odo to flash...so to overcome this i took a live straight from the ignition barrel put spade connectors in the wire with a fuse and earthed it straight to the chassis. and connected the sensor for the boost gauge to a standard breather pipe from the NA throttlebody. after everything was back in, connected, filled up and bled it was time to see if the fruits of our labour had payed off http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k604/SupraSte4lth/Supra%20NA-T%20build/ videos to follow... and shortly after i took the car to GotBoost in bridgend southwales. a well known dyno to the sxoc. and Craig from GotBoost worked his magic.

better late than never! just thought i'd throw my name in the mix t61 rav 4 dizzy magnacor leads xs wastegate w58 stage 4 competition clutch walbro fuel pump stock 440cc injectors 385bhp 369ft/lb at 8.5psi only problem was the massive boost spike after the map...turned out to be a split vacuum hose. and as expected the famous popping off ic piping during mapping.

+1 You really want to spend your money in a more trustworthy place.tried& proven. Generally if you get a bad vibe, it's for a reason imo. Couldn't you try whifbitz?

+1 Same thing happened to me a couple of years back. Laughed at the guy which didn't help matters. But insisted they were illegal. Spoke to a few different officers/Sgts who confirmed the person who had been bullied was full of it... Anyways changed them a few months later as I had intended to& prefer them now.

T61 fine here... Not running massive power. But so far no problems.

unfortunatley working! otherwise i'd be heading down with Ali in convoy... would of been nice not to have the lowest bhp this time!

Seen you parked next to the hop pole the last two days.& not 10 minutes ago driving past my place of work Pretty stock looking 199 silver with what looked like BBS black& chrome rims. Couldn't see any forum stickers on it... But possibly someone who knows the guy? Got excited as I haven't been able to drive mine for a few weeks now looked nice & smooth on the road

Here here!

Cheers, really appreciate it

Fair enough. I'll leave that alone& keep my fingers crossed then. Really not looking forward to the crank pulley though. Last time I had a pop it was like chuck Norris had put it in there!had a look at the spare head in my man cave(shed) & my snap on gun should make light work of the cam pulleyss can't wait to find out how much a crank pulley is lol Slight problem with torquing the rocker in sequence though... There is no Haynes manual.i have the massive download thingy though, would it be in there?

Yeah just jacked it up& the rubber damper on the crank pulley is perished on a 1/4 of the outside where it seats on the outer part of the pulley. Deffinately the camshaft aswell with amount of oil on the underside of the water pump. Thing is if I'm going to attack the pulley shouldn't I do the seal aswell just to save going back. Or should I leave well alone to save disturbing anything & possibly making it worse. Eg the oil pump?! Cheers Rob something I should have done when I attacked the timing belt really. Ah well we live& learn.got a spare rad but really wouldn't want to damage my nice shiney one lol!

On inspection it looks like the camshaft seals. As like Scotts said it seems to be seeping from behind the plastic guard between the pulleys& engine itself. It seems to around the top of the water pump& the top radiator hose. I'm running it up to temperature to see if the seep becomes more apparent. However there seems to be excessive wobble on the crank pulley?! As if it hasn't been machined straight?! Is this normal& I just haven't noticed it before? Or is it really a worn crank seal???

Damnit! Good price! Just fitted one on mine. If is falcon evo, will have intelistart & turbo timer.&a pager?... Aswell as being able to make bad men.... Or women??? Think twice about taking it from you?!... You do mean the car right? Anyways very happy with mine

Deffinately sounds about right! Will whip them off in the morning Could do the crank etc over a weekend. but ideally I want to do everything you just mentioned above to the new engine along with everything else as I rebuild it but yeah if the crank seal is the problem then I don't see the point of scrimping now just to be stung for it later on thanks again Scott

Thanks Scott will give it a going over in the morning. But pretty sure it's not the camshaft seals. I've got the Perspex pulley cover& haven't noticed anything. But I could be wrong, which would be nice!? Ha ha but yeah I was wondering why the seepage was all the ways up by the aux belt tensioner. I mean it hasn't dropped the oil either, meh, I'm sure a quick physical check in the morning will solve all...& lighten the wallet

Cheers for all the input! Just got back home. Looks like the spare engine is the better build engine coming from an auto& all. So looks like I'll replace the seal...& may aswell do it properly& get a new pump in there aswell.just wondering if this is possible with the engine in the car? Or does the subframe get in the way?...hoist or not to hoist?

Yeah will do Jason just seeing what people thought before I got stuck in, just like to crack on with jobs as soon as I get started lol! Quite impatient Currently sat on Craig's driving picking up the spare engine for the rebuild may drop it in& work on my original engine. It made 222bhp on the dyno. Anyways will have a word in a minute when he gets here I know he had it& did try it when I tried doing the timing belt over a year ago& it didn't Wana go.in the end had to take it to Osaka Toyota specialists in Newport, but hey may be easier now it's been done once!? & do the pulley like I should of last time... Anyways Rob why did it go a second time in such close time??? Seal not put in properly?

cheers guys so just to confirm, crank seal? just thought it was a bit high up on the timing belt cover to be the crank seal?

i have come across an oil leek from the front of the engine. i first spotted it a couple of days ago when i had the car on the ramp at work fitting my new damper. i noticed oil on my fmic piping, it sits under the crank pulley. and after being in the workshop a couple of hours left a single drip on the floor. having a quick look at my car today i noticed a small patch on the drive... on further inspection i've looked at the source and it seems to be coming from behind the timing belt cover. it looks like it starts behind the aux belt tensioner. is this the dreaded oil pump seal? and does this mean i can no longer drive the car until fixed? i have had no oil warning light and there is still plenty of oil in the sump. it had 1/2 oil& last i checked a few weeks ago it was 3/4 full.bearing in mind being a turbo and all... thoughts and advice from the knowledgeable is very much appreciated. thanks in advance Lewis

sorry, first pick from the post (13/11/11) further up the page. bit slow, i was having a catchup read. the radiator looks awesome by the way

perseverance& lot's of patients lol i got to it with a hammer& screwdriver(flathead)...it'll really seem like it won't wana move, just give it a bit of mong strength& try not to break the fins/teeth