-Welsh-Stealth-

much respect for the workmanship! hats off to the fella! all i have to say though is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1n5tICXzlg

fair enough with the cost i have nothing to compare it to!? haven't done the NA-TT route lol! with the power delivery you can see all you need to on the dyno read out at the start of the thread as for the gearbox im sure someone on here with the expertise will be along to share their knowledge on the subject personal i went with the stage 4 competition clutch(good for about 500bhp). and the kits only been fitted a couple of weeks so i cant really say anything...but it's like Dr_Jekyll said, its all down to the driver and how they drive. a car driven to breaking point everywhere will eventually do just that. as for helping anyone to decide.i understand its not for everyone like mitchell2009 said but my advise would be, next track day get yourself down there grab a helmet& jump in with the boys

+1 thanks for the input dude. I'll be going that way in year or 2.

its probably the cheapest option for horse power to be honest.i did the research before going down this route and theres plenty of argument from both sides of the supra world... obviously the "why didn't you just buy a TT?" "why don't you sell your NA and just buy a TT?" then theres the NA-TT route but with the NA-TT route i'd seen a standard TT on a dyno kicking out about 250hp at the wheel.and although i'd been on track in it.i'd also experienced the NA-T and to me it seemed a bit more savage on boost. and for the TT to gain horses your looking at the BPU route on top of a £2000 engine or a whatever it is for the NA-TT conversion. the TT engine is better for high end horses with low compression and all. but i was only after about 400 ponies. and cause im a cheap-skate i looked at it that if i go NA-TT and the engine goes "bang" a £200 2JZ GE is easier to replace than a slightly more expensive 2JZ GTE. and i'd spent alot on my NA chassis on coilovers and brakes and super pro bushers etc so selling my NA wasnt a choice for me. and i was slightly to young for the TT and very inexperienced in the supra world when i bought it. these are just my views and opinions and i completely understand that some people won't agree with me here but yeah the kit itself is about 2.5k i managed to get it alot cheaper on here from another member but this will need things like a good ECU, an intercooler+piping. and you may wont to replace the exhaust manifold, as some of these aren't built to well...i think there are some for sale on here at the moment??? and obviously on top of this the dyno/map so whatever you can get that for, should be around £300 hope that helps? anymore questions feel free to ask

+1 wouldn't mind one of these myself! would something like this also be possible on the electric ariel???

i would definately advise going for it. it'll give the TT BPU's a run for there money and with Craig he knows what hes doing, obviously running a NA-T in the toyota sprint series ill get the dyno read outs from the NA and NA-T on here soon

we (Dr_Jekyll) started this build by taking the engine and gearbox out, as we were fitting a stage 4 competition clutch. this involved first off taking the exhaust off so that we could get to the prop shaft&gearbox. so jacking your car up on axle stands would be a good start. there was a few heat sheilds left from the stock exhaust which we removed. we then emptied the gearbox of oil, and then removed the bolts holding the prop into the diff. an air gun will make work on tough bolts like these easy prop shaft removed we disconnected the ecu and the loom surrounding.located in the passenger footwell under the carpet& plastic cover. once all the loom is disconected it can be pulled through the hole located behind the charcoal box...if you still have one?! make sure all loom is disconected before you get too rough on the wires.try not to pull to hard on the wiring as you wouldnt want a break in any curcuit, as this may cause massive issues when it comes to starting the car with the turbo fitted. we also took the front bumper off and lights out for ease of engine removal.these would have eventually needed removing for the fitment of the fmic. disconnec the power steering piping connecting the engine to the chassis. disconnect the aircon piping connecting the engine to the chassis. just be aware that the gas inside is extremely hazardous.not far from the stuff used in those lovelly German camp showers for jews in WWII. so i'd advise getting a mechanic to drain this before proceeding....luckily'ish i had a rotted pipe that helped keep my car warm in the summer and the refrigerant out of the system. undo earthing points from the engine to the chassis. disconnect the power feeds/loom to the starter motor. just generally makesure all piping& loom etc attached to the chassis from the engine is disconnected. drain engine oil drain and take out the radiator. undo the engine mounting bolts from the underside of the car. once everything connecting the engine& gearbox to the chassis is disconnected, its time to remove the engine and gearbox as one whole unit! for this you will require a crane able to take the weight of the engine and gearbox. and many hands make light work, so the more friends you can get to help makes things alot easier! just take your time and as you go make sure nothing catches and everything is disconnected. this took me and Craig ( Dr_Jekyll) about 4 hours taking our time. and luckily we had friends appear to help with the engine extraction.and to finish this off we all took the gearbox off for ease of clutch fittment. pictures here: http://s1118.photobucket.com/albums/k604/SupraSte4lth/Supra%20NA-T%20build/Supra%20NA-T%20build/Supra%20NA-T%20build/

i have recently fitted the bolt on turbo kit to my NA supra. now that it's completed i am posting up a thread that shows from start to finish how myself& Dr_Jekyll fitted this kit with a step by step guide. with lots of pictures to show how it was done. hopefully this will help people looking to do the same with their NA's and possibly help avoid problems during a build with plenty of prior preparation it also helps alot if you have a friend owning a garage and running a NA-T in the toyota sprint series this sort of build can be done over a weekend with somebody who is a competent mechanic or knows what they're doing. luckily i had both bearing in mind this would only be the mechanical fitting. ie the piggy back ecu, turbo& feed lines & intercooler, and possible clutch. this obviously wouldnt include the re-map of the ecu. this build took slightly longer as we had to wait on parts.the clutch arrived late and we had to wait until we could put everything back together. so my suggestions when starting this build would be: * get your girlfriend to help with spelling on the build thread *make sure you have all parts for the build ready to go *make sure you have sufficient oil feed&return lines *plan to have your supra off the road for at least a week should something go wrong. *have a well lit& dry place to work on your car *a competent mechanic *enough oil's& lubes to replace whats drained *a good strong engine stand/crane *book a re-map with plenty of time to fit the kit (it also helps if you know somebody with a good knowledge of alot of the NA-T base settings, will save the mapper alot of time& you cash) prior preparation prevents p$%# poor performance

hope you got it sorted for the map

im after the rubber cap that sits on top of the standard suspension strut/coilover...i have hsd coilovers that i fitted and after a while the ball mounts on top (in engine bay area)fill with dirt& grit. so im after 2 of these rubber caps to cover them. cheers

cheers chris will chase this up! thanks man, really appreciate the help and video links.will get on this over the weekend!

you sir! are a leg-end! lol!thanks scott, think ill start off with cleaning it up and see if that works...then move the cable around to see if that does anything!?...fingers crossed its just a dirty sensor!

ET30 8.5j front ET35 9.5j rear just so you can see how the front sit flush on the ET30 and the spokes come out further on the ET35 rota's i think it looks mean falken 452's ain't bad either

yep checked the brake resivour&abs, levels are fine....maybe it needs a service??? just done the abs fault code thingy. and i got 32 & 35 Code 32 - On/Off/On Malfunction of left front wheel speed sensor signal. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness, and connector. Code 35 - On/Off/On Open in left front wheel or right rear speed sensor circuit. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness, and connector. would this be wiring? or could it just be dirty sensor front left? the light has gone off a few times for a short amount of time before...i had my engine and gearbox out for the NA-T build a few weeks ago& thats when the light came on perminantly. and does anybody have a picture of the sensor? so i can locate it please

when i was fitting my NA-T with Dr_Jeckyll he mentioned something about the central vent on the bottom centre of the wastegate. i was going to put a screw in to close it up but was warned not to as it may cause boost spiking problems... best bet would be to drop him a pm, he knows his stuff

yeh,really not a fan of electrics! they never make things easy for me ha ha! but just to confirm, is that the same diagnostics port as for the ecu (engine management light) check? cheers for the reply scott

as above my ABS light and the centre warning triangle ("!") are constantly on. when i start my car it should go out but they stay on... the brakes work fine, i just need to fit in an MOT soon. would it have anything to do with my hell braided brakelines? or the fact i have a GReddy piggy back ecu? any help greatly appreciated!

i had a problem with my t61 spiking to a bar of boost when it was mapped at 8psi... turned out it was spiking because of a split bit of tubing from the wastegate to the intercooler piping. it would randomly spike, then eventually got worse. and then eventually it kept spiking constant.... turned out it was that vacum hosing that split and eventually got worse and broke. hope that helps

+1 they sent me a letter 4 months of ownership of my supra saying that they had registered it as scrapped!?lol! phoned the retards up and explained that couldnt be the case as i was phoning them stood next to it on the drive!?lol! which then resulted in letters many. and a request to drive an hour and a half during my working hours to get it inspected by somebody as less technically minded than a goldfish!they refused to pay my fuel and my wage that i'd be missing out on!lol! twats! was their fuck up with paperwork!? a friend phoned them this year to confirm his sawn(or whatever it is) car he's been building for time attack and get told they had no details of the car since 2005 despite the fact the tax disc had a valid disc for 2007 in the window still!lmao! tried charging him a fair bit of money after fucking up the sawn paperwork between this year and last!? lol! and recently inquired about na-t: 1st phone call= yes! yes! yes! you totally have to tell us and we need reciepts and we may need to inspect it. 2nd phonecall= no, as the engines not being changed and not a change in engine size. 3rd phonecall= not sure. you will have to contact motor transport office(or whatever they're called) and ask them... quite easy to see really that the goverment could train sloths to do a better job! steer clear!!!

my top tip! if your in that scene alot the 200sx grab handle fits there lovely ....other supra owners may frown upon you though!?

id rather sell it complete with the radiator, but if somebodies after the radiator alone then i'll let you know

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Cheers Chris

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