Durandal

Just updating this in case someone stumbles across similar issues with the search function. After installing new inlet link pipes to the turbos and a new IACV VSV, the car seems to be working properly in sequential mode now. On down shifts both turbos kick in.

I've seen oil collect around there from the valve cover or a split vent hose from the valve cover/PCV system. In your pictures it looks like it has leaked all over that area. Could be residue from the intake coming out where your vac leak was as well.

That just looks like some oil as it is all over the connector as well. Possibly from the pipe above it?

I do remember reading through his posts and heard mention of him having a plan to tune the lean spot but couldn't find anything in search. I have fired him an email but I imagine he gets a ton of those haha. I will be swapping back to sequential soon which might help with the lean area in the 3600-3800 RPM range at 1 bar as in sequential there should only be 1 turbo active at that time.

Greddy EMU Will I be able to adjust the fueling in the 3500 RPM column or is the the stock ECU going to fight the changes?

It came off the IACV actuator. I'm just wondering if it's the original or someone replaced the original with this, as the part number don't match. Found another thread with the part numbers which mach mine so I guess the toyodiy number is just an anomaly http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?331442-VSV-part-numbers-please

While waiting for VSV to arrive I figured I'd check some other things No1 turbo pipe quite choked off. Probably why the No1 turbo always made a higher pitched noise. Do people bother replacing these with stock ones again or get a different style pipe coupling? I can probably get a some 2 inch hydraulic hose which I'm sure would hold up in the vacuum environment.

So according to toyodiy this is the part number that should should be the IACV VSV But this is what I took off my car. Looks more like the EGCV VSV part. Or are these basicly the same anyway?

Yah I am hoping that is the cause. Waiting for a quote on a replacement. Might order the EGCV VSV as well.

I had read that the IACV and EGCV open at around 0.5. I tested mine and they start to open at around 0.3 bar. Or was the 0.5 the pressure at which they are fully open?

This is the one for a 94 JDM according to toyodiy 89421A SENSOR, TURBO PRESSURE 89421-12111

Update re-checked some things again and it seems the IACV VSV is intermittently reading open so looks like a bad coil. So will need to order one of those and see if it fixes the problem. While testing EGCV VSV i also noticed the WG VSV is also bad although I am using a boost controller solenoid so that is not being used anyway.

So after searching I have found that several people have had the same issue I seem to be having. Boosts fine if you WOT in first or second and shift through gears but down shifting or very gradual ramp up of RPM yields low boost to around 0.4 bar then drops off at around 3800 RPM when the sequential stuff kicks in. I tested the IC piping with a can of spaghetti and ended up launching it across the garage. I've read through Ian C troubleshooting post and some others who have found split hoses. I bought a pressure/vacuum tester and manually tested all my actuators which seem to be working and used an ohm meter and 12 v supply on the VSV they all check out fine as well. So I put the car in TTC temporarily and it boosts great all the time when it is supposed to. The next day I checked and the EGCV and IACV actuators are still wide open so my pressure tank should be in good working order as well. Today I disconnected the hose marked with the pink arrow and used my hand pressure pump to build up to 1.1 bar. The EGBV opened and it very slowly dropped off to 0 bar (10 minutes or so). Felt around all the hoses fed from there and could not feel or hear any air leaking. Is that normal?

I disconnected the hose circled in red and blew into it down the direction of the arrow and it was free flowing. That's not right is it? Edit* Oops that just goes to the Y pipe, pulled that connection off and held my thumb on it so looks like no leaks in the EGBV.

So after installing the SCG-1 boost controller from innovate motorsports I am getting the common intermittent no second turbo on kick down and slow pulls. I'm going through all the hoses but all I have is silicon. Is there a hose kit from Toyota? Buying them all individually would cost a fortune. What a bugger trying to get at the 2 EGBV hoses as well.

So I was going to use the blank seat heater fuse on my JDM supra to power a boost controller. I'm sure I measured a voltage there with the ignition on but now I'm not reading anything. Am I crazy or does the JDM supra not come with power to that fuse spot?

So i bought one of these neat looking systems so that I could fit both my boost and afr into the dash where the clock goes. What's the easiest way to access the tube fitting for output of turbo to my solenoid valve on boost controller? That thing is buried deep.

Does anyone know the size of the bolt for this shroud piece? Included a picture. M6 1.0?

So I always thought that 91 AKI was equivalent to around 95 RON but when looking through my BMW S1000RR manual I found this.

I tried using the afr target map feature activated at 80%+ throttle to lean out the afrs at WOT. It seems to have helped, although I have heard people saying that you should not leave the afr target map on.

Oh ya totally understand. The AFR goes from around 13.5 to 15 while cruising and at WOT it drops down to 9.6 to 9.7 consistently. When I come off the throttle it spikes to maximum of 22 AFR which I do not understand, maybe that's normal or maybe it has to do with the BOV. I guess I kind of figured I could bring the AFR closer to 11.5 on WOT and do something about the dip around 4000 RPM with the injector map.

I got it because it was only a couple hundred more than buying Speed delimiter and BCC and gave me a platform for possibly going single in future. I also wanted to do some logging and figured there could be some benefit in some minor tuning with the lower octane available to me.

The engine is stock jdm nothing really done to it. The fuel pump was upgraded to a 255. The fuel is 95 oct which is probably adding extra duty to the injectors.

I don't know why they are running such high duty cycle, they are the 440c stock ones. Should they be upgraded to something a little bit bigger? The AFR is displayed on a gauge in my dash and is the green line on the log through option port 1 analog input. It's a innovate wideband 7.35-22.39 AFR range that I installed in my first decat pipe around where the cat temp sensor was. I did take my foot of the throttle when I felt something cut out so maybe that's why it looks like that.

The boost is wired in to the airflow input so the voltage reading for that is from the stock MAP sensor. The plugs are heat range 7, maybe it is too cold.