rider

Before anyone says you should have, just remember hindsight is a wonderful view not bestowed upon many. Back onto the sub frame today to tackle the threads as molten zinc pools in threads very well. There are several means to prevent or cure zinc build up in threads that I researched this weekend, obviously for me prevention is all academic as I'm post dip. But for others its definitely something to consider. Going with prevention, thread protection, there are proprietary stop galv paint products which you can buy and put over the parts or areas that you wish not to be galvanized. That is probably going to pool again in threads which might be just as bad as a zinc coat once its been oven cured and I doubt it would survive a paint strip process anyway? Or people suggest high temperature silicone sealant or high temperature greases as an option. Though, if the part is going to be oven baked (rather than chemical stripped) to remove paint then any product needs to be capable of comfortably withstanding 600C for a reasonable period. I'm also not sure if galvanizers would appreciate grease in their acid baths. Some recommend leaving a bolt or stud in situ and then blow torching it out later. I left a few bolts in and if anything they were harder to sort out than the remedy for open threads outlined later. Prevention was something to late for my sub frame with restorative cure now the only option. Some of the bolt holes were even completely closed with pooled zinc (I had to refer back to pre dip pictures to identify some bolt holes). On others the zinc had almost smoothed out the thread. Some early morning research came up with an interesting fact, zinc melts at a 200C lower temperature than the zinc/ferrous alloy formed in the galvanised layer. So off to see my mate today who is the one going to do the fitting with me and use his torch to melt out the zinc from the threads. I was amazed how much zinc came out of the threads and pleased how successful the torching method was. The galvanised layer remained intact, though the paint burnt away. So it was on my painting pallet again for some fresh prime and impact resistant paint. I should have tackled the zinc in threads before painting and were I ever to galvanise another Supra sub frame that is indeed what I would do. Melting off the excess zinc is a far neater method to drilling and tapping as well as much quicker to.

£20k.

This one gives the Toyota equivalent code

These are asking big money these days, to think thousands must have been thrown out as people 'upgraded' to cones. If its just the lid you are after Mr Toyota still stocks them, or did when I replaced my broken catch lid a little while back.

I'm going to have my main run fuel and brake lines collected by a relative from Oxford as I know ANC would rearrange the shape and probably crush them to. Suggested to SM in the past that he looks elsewhere for a courier but he seems pretty set on ANC. He hasn't responded to the email I sent him with the same pictures attached of the tank guard. If it wasn't something that sat under the car largely unseen I would have rejected it with the damage but at least I know with the time I spent on it and the extra two coats of paint its better than new now, albeit with a dent or two or three. I was pleased with the end paint finish. The concern for this kind of thing is more where a part goes directly to a garage for fitting as part of say an accident repair. I don't think they would spend 2 hours putting right the paint damage before fitting it. Without the remedial work this guard would be rusting away quite nicely in lots of places in just a few months.

Tackled my new fuel guard today that came via Toyota Oxford shipped via ANC courier. The straps came in a bag that got destroyed by ANC and the tank guard got a bit of a beating to. ANC are quite probably the worst courier, a cheap franchise outfit where damage is always transferable to the collecting franchise or the distribution centre. The guard had lots of back to metal scrapes and scuffs as illustrated by the primer plasters applied. Repainting the guard really highlighted the three dents nicely. One may need to be bashed out as it is quite pronounced but I won't know if it'll affect fitting until I tackle the fitting. I don't fully appreciate the need upon receiving brand new Toyota parts to then spending 2 hours and £15 on paint sorting them and still have a damaged part at the end of it.

Listing ended, Keron must have bought it as a project

If your car is stored inside you might want to invest in a dehumidifier. I fire mine up every time the main doors are opened which I do often when its dry and sunny to let the garage air. Running the dehumidifier after that on a timer for 8 hours, its amazing how much water it drags out of the air. Modern oils are good at maintaining a film but it'll be very thin after 6 months (it goes sub 1μm after a month of standing). If storing again in the future maybe get your dad to run it a short distance each time he warms the engine up to keep an oil film on the transmission parts. That way you'll eliminate any possibility of rust spots forming from condensation inside the internals. Or stick the back up on axle stands so the transmission can be run in gear now and again. Other than that you should be good to go, though the brakes may take a few stops to cut back into the discs.

Someone who works for me is building one on the cheap from bricks and then doing a clay coating. I think this looks way better than the mosaic eBay one you linked and its not a great deal more in terms of cost. Kits are a big outlay though for something that'd get used how often? Its a fair bit of faffing around to get it fired up and up to temperature. It would also need to be fired up regularly to minimise the chance of cracking. But, the rarity would sure make your hosted events a hit.

Received the fuel pump today, not boxed, just loose bubble wrapped. Nothing like the spot a fake guide provided by Walbro. Did a live chat with Walbro to ask for any other ways to check authenticity. Their CS rep said the only way to ensure genuine was to buy directly from them ($35 international shipping + plus handling + duty). The main difference between genuine Walbro and the not genuine ones is the genuine article has metal gears and the knock-offs have plastic gears. So I asked the Walbro rep the weight of the GSS342 pump. They don't have that information to hand. Found it out online to be 366g during the conversation and my new pump weighs in at 367g so checks out. Walbro CS rep liked this and will suggest to management that they have a weight sheet for all products. Anyone buying the Walbro GSS342 255lph pumps off eBay retailers, check the weight when you get them - 366g. Its probably the only check on genuine or not genuine there is.

This site breaks down the serial into what the car was as it left the factory.

There used to be stickers and a welcome pack, apparently. When was the last time anyone saw any of that? This forum is doubtless neglected by those who set it up and managed it in the early years and it needs to be handed onto those who still run or have an interest in the cars. Its clear most of the earlier contributors have moved on and left a void. There are plenty of forums with members only sections and the technical write ups and advice needed should be available on a membership or paid basis. Is the only way the hosting and covered cost or subsidised events costs will be funded in coming years. That, or transfer everything onto another hosting platform like FB but I only use FB for real time needs rather than archive how to do and advice reference. It all needs a project manager or a team who is/are into IT and Al to twist Branners arm to let go if he isn't interested in taking the group forward. There are lots of things to consider beyond platform and hosting, like should it open up to include the new MkV? That's a call that needs to be made fairly soon but is a way to keep the group current and attract a whole new following of potential and actual owners. Why isn't Toyota GB one of the sponsors, the amount they make from part sales they should be.

The forum could and maybe should be reorganised so that the technical section is on a pay per listing or pay per view for non members as that is the gold mine of information that could be mined for years to come. With the lack of traffic I doubt traders see much return. Except maybe OPIE as they are the one trader that posts offers fairly regularly but I've used other forum (mainly off the Scoobie forum) OPIE codes to buy oil when I've needed some. New mods and a new focus is needed otherwise years of archive knowledgebase risks being lost.

Its amazing, usually these hello threads get maybe 5 replies. A Becky handle seems to get a lot more interest. Note to anyone thinking of joining, call yourself Janice.

It's the flat tyre that's showing a disregard for presentation

Ads been revised to 'ono offers'. That makes sense, although its repeating the offers. Next it'll be just 'offers'.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=215694&d=1479225807 A Jake Cousins NEC picture

Do make sure you are insured to drive it. Last thing you'd need is a fine and 6 points.

As the ad says - no offers. I can see them getting no offers. A turd by any other name for only £3,550

I had my BBS painted BMW shadow chrome and they suit a white car better than standard silver being more a graphite colour. Its more expensive as its a two paint process of silver on black but I think it was worth it.

I had the garage fit mine as easiest done with a ramp and they said eazy pezy fit which I cannot imagine meant cutting anything. I have a stock bumper.

Hope its not your only car. I took my Supra out yesterday morning for the first run in a couple of weeks and when all is well its a good way to spend an hour or so. Lets hope yours is back with you soon though how long does an ECU test take?

Try posting into the Forum: England - Yorkshire section and PM some of the events organisers there as they should be able to tell you if anyone in the area has a auto NA and identify the members or approach them on your behalf.

Thx all - ordered in a Walbro 255lph pump from driven2automotive as they bang on about genuine parts and we all know how fleabay is the counterfeiters dream outlet. I'll be referring to this spot a fake guide when the part arrives.

Always fun to seek out cheap equivalents and there are Chinese parts traders at $5 a unit for multi-buy. Which seems to then retail at around $20.. From $5 to $400 for a 190l/min fuel pump. Amazing. - - - Updated - - - Do you have the p/n on that Ric?