rider

I have only ordered the upper and lower arms at this stage. I do have a spare front sub frame that I could swap out but I'm planning on giving the front end a good look over this Autumn when the car is up on the ramp for a couple of months to assess if that is needed/worthwhile. If you have all the bush and fixing part numbers for the front then that'd be very useful to add to the stockpile I have as I'm expecting that if you never use parts yourself there will always be someone around the World willing to buy them in a few years time.

Shamed into replacing all the nuts, bolts and cams with new just placed an order today with Amayama. Its £240 worth DDP just for the fixings (quoted £280 domestic). I already had over £50 of new fixings so a complete set of rear frame and arms bolts, washers and nuts is £300. Also ordered a front set of upper and lower arms today (next years project?), that's another £1,200. Lots of places listing front upper control arms as discontinued so if anyone wanted to stockpile probably needs to order those soon. Another expensive Supra day, gone past £5k on parts alone.

My daughter has a three year old Astra 1.4T which she says has started to run really rough and low on power. Reading up on likely issues it seems later Vauxhalls (Corsa and Astra) do suffer from coil pack breakdown. Is there any way to diagnose and identify a intermittent faulty coil pack or does it need to wait till its a permenant fault? I haven't checked any error codes yet. no EML.

A friend of my daughter is a physicist working on induction charging for electric vehciles. They are looking into charging areas under road, at traffic lights and the inside lane of motorways. A wifi electric meter will be required for billing, maybe in the future it could all be incorporated with the household bill and for city dwellers there would never be any need for home charging?

Its looking really good on the rust front and I hope mine is like that when the tear down begins. Luckily I'll be indoors with the car on a 2 poster so it won't be weather dependent. Strangely though, I'm not looking forward to it. I'm sure it'll end up being fun and interesting when I get stuck in.

You shouldn't see any water pooling under the seal if it is sealed properly. If I were you I'd think about having the glass taken out to first up check the state of the metalwork and then replace the seal.

I'm planning on having an outside power point alongside my garage installed next time I get a leccy out ready for the day when the first electric car turns up on my driveway in the next not so many years. I'm thinking Tesla seeing its got the range, fast and getting affordable with sub £50k options becoming available. Has anyone been in one, driven one - loved it, loathed it? I know someone with a Nissan Leaf and they love it but I like the Tesla lines better.

There are a few listed in the USA and Canada for between $1k and $4k.

I've driven 90,000 miles in my Supra so don't feel the desperate need to do a whole load more and now, like a lot of owners do sub 1,000 miles a year. Possibly a good thing, less chance of it getting written off and receiving a £6k offer from the insurers for your cherished TT6. I don't miss the washboard ride along the local B road that used to be my daily commute that feels like a smooth super highway in my Merc. Toyota GB advice shared at last years NEC classic car show is lock up your Supra now and only run it to the MOT station as its annual outing. So there is lots of scope for lower km yet.

New list black unmolested (even has an air box) jspec and over £15k already. Be interesting to see where it ends up.

Production figures for the series 3 RX7 were much higher than for the MkIV Supra. Its also not as big a movie star as the Supra. Its also not as indestructable as a Supra. But you still get RX7's listed at £25k.

From what I've seen prices have stalled since the Spring but thats not a Supra thing the entire second hand car market has fallen so stalling is still a positive trend against the overall market trend. I recon prices will double over the next 7 years so if its an investment you are after it should be future proof, so long as nothing major goes wrong mechanically. The market is also likely to diverge between stockish and the highly modified cars with stock cars being the holy grail for both the purist and the modder seeking a fresh canvas. If its maximised return on investment you are after then you need to go for the rarer, more desirale, versions which is either a stock aero or TT6.

I just ordered a Karcher K3 with the chassis cleaner and patio scrubber - its on numbers restricted offer at tooled-up for £169.95.

I was asking £260 including 2 good to fit tyres

If anyone looking for a pre-facelift NA set I have a pretty decent 16" set with caps.

I did hear Ed China was looking for some work. Takes special skill to cut in new metal seamlessly onto a curve.

My old cars, touching some formica as I type, have all been 100% reliable. I love stripping down, rebuilding and tuning carbs. Its like you personally get to set up how the car runs. Go carbs.

Read the title on an Evo forum about the thirst for more power (no Supra owner hasn't been on that journey) and I figured its got a certain ring of real World truth to it. I love driving around in my little MGB probably because it rides like a 50 year old car and I get to do lots of gear changes because it struggles up big hills in 4th and if you want to accelerate at any other time you probably don't want to be in 4th either. Anyone who has never driven an old British Sports car should really go out and buy or rent one, its proper driving without any power steering or ABS and if you don't break down on the run, even better. Sub 100bhp with miles of smiles. I'm hoping for a few more sunny days before summer is over to get my little roadster out rambling the local lanes and B roads. Asked which keys I'd grab first between the Supra or the MGB; that depends if the sun is shining.

Did they have PPI in the States driving up Supra prices?

Demand is always price related. You see a £15k TT6 of decent standing and it'll be gone inside 3 days. See one of £20k and it has to be very good to go inside a month.

Collected together all the torque settings today for the reassembly: Torque setting Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft And for the arms:

There are several top washer thickness options, 1mm, 1.6mm and 2mm. Anyone know which is correct for a 1996 RZ TT6 jspec? Or should I just recycle the one that is on the car? Also, anyone have the part number for the bottom bush for the front diff mount?

Tackled the rear bushes this morning. Didn't go to plan. The rears don't have the compressible split in the casing that the fronts do. I decided after having the left bush bounce out for a majorly large number of times it just wasn't going to seat. On my own today so decided it was safe to put the bushes into the freezer. Tried again 3 hours later and job done. Because the bush is on a solid cup it did take a good few drops on the 15lb side of the sledgehammer to get them home, probably around 30 as it wasn't slipping in easily. Anyone doing the rear frame bush should note the bolt holes are not central to the bush so orientation is very important as I doubt rotation is a possibility after they are fitted. Just the two new mounting cushions to fit now, seeing they slide onto the shaft I'm not anticipating any issues. Frame bushing guide: Tool - 15lb sledgehammer Materials - Grease Ancillary equipment - freezer Ease of fitment - Much easier than anticipated. So far so good.

Fuzzy shots makes the fins look old, powdered and knackered. Fin condition is pretty pivotal to intercooler efficiency so a in focus shot of those might be helpful to a sale? My original fit intercooler fins were dust to the touch after X number of years.

You could swap the wheels over to see if the knock moves though with unidirectional tyres you'd want to swap the wheels back straight away. Could be a balancing weight loss or a buckled wheel that a quick wheel swap would confirm or rule out.