rider

Much cheaper, the facelift cats were new a little over 1/4 of the price so must use less precious metals. I wish I'd kept the link to the former thread that said if you use a facelift cat the exhaust heads off to the rear wheel.

So many things could be wrong that cause this behaviour. Bouncing when travelling in a straight line suggests to me look for a broken spring or knackered shock first. Skipping when cornering then you'd be into ball joints, bearing play, bushes and even a broken sway bar as possible causes.

Aicon needs a regas cost me a not so cool £1k in 2004 with a front end strip down, new condenser, front end rebuild and regas. If it only needs a regas it would be sensible to just get it regassed for around £70. Punters will expect no bad bits perfect for £19k on a 200k+ miler. A black UK spec TT6 similar mileage sold this year only made half the price you are pitching at, that did have some bad bits though particularly on the paint. Add in the MOT history of sub frame damage, oil leaks and corrosion comments and £19k is going to be a stretch.

Another Supra couple of hours today. Changed the diff oil and then brought it together with the frame and coupled up the drive shafts as well. Maybe get the arms on tomorrow? Nothing tightened more than nip tight before the hubs go back on.

The dash off and no start may not be a cause and effect. I'd do the normal checks for a car that wont start along the lines of is there a spark at the plugs and is there fuel reaching the rail before suspecting anything behind the dash?

I have compiled a comprehensive list of torque specs for my rear end underside refurb rebuild which may be useful for others: Torque setting Frame to body Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop and differential Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Sway bar Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft Suspension arms Upper arm to frame 121 lb/ft Upper arm ball joint nut 80 lb/ft Lower #2 arm to frame 136 lb/ft Lower #2 arm ball joint nut 121 lb/ft Lower #2 arm to shock 101 lb/ft Lower #1 arm to frame 136 lb/ft Lower #1 arm ball joint nut 43 lb/ft Strut rod to frame 136 lb/ft Strut rod to hub 136 lb/ft Hub Shaft Lock nut 213 lb/ft Others Brake calliper to hub 77 lb/ft Exhaust cat #2 to pipe bolts 43 lb/ft Hand brake cable to hub plate bolts 69 lb/ft Handbrake shoe guide plate bolt 13 lb/ft Handbrake cable clamp to frame bolts 14 lb/ft I'd always advise people to check torque settings for themselves but these are what I'm going with.

Bump, still available - cheapest 16" set in Supra World, with caps and a couple of good tyres.

Homer, one of our Super Mods, wrote that there is a difference. Why don't you PM him to find out more?

The sub frame must have taken a significan jolt through the arms to shear off a brace bolt . You probably wouldn't know if the control arm mount has been damaged until the wheel alignment was checked/set. I'm sure if someone off here buys it they will go in with their eyes wide open and price accordingly but I'd recommend caution about statements that the frame and other drive and suspension components are undamaged without having that geometrically confirmed.

There is a L and R set for sale on eBay at the moment with not takers at £100 the pair. Been on a while so the seller should be open to an offer.

I thought all UK spec Supras came with the rear wing, active front spoiler and front bumper washers as standard? My French isn't great but the parts list doesn't seem to include the drive shaft and that looks like its been bent. Also if the sub frame brace has popped a bolt does that not mean the sub frame could be twisted? Could make wheel alignment interesting.

For the parts market price place them on an eBay auction and advertise on FB and you'll find out. If you can wait for a buyer then the parts that regularly get listed at Supra parts prices are: Bumper £300 (only because it has the washers that lots of people threw away and they are discontinued) Fuel Tank - £100 if its in really good condition Side skirts £100 the pair Side vents £100 the pair (assuming all clips are in good shape, but you should note the pods were OE colour coded) The glass tends to be sold as part of the tailgate or doors and I've never seen a windscreen offered for sale. Arch liners are pretty much worthless as who doesn't have arch liners. No idea what looms might be worth. Any ECU's will be more valuable but I guess they have probably already been stripped.

Painting over except maybe some touch up I'll likely need to do on the hubs after their reassembly and bearing fitment. I'm happy with the way the satin black on the diff came out. Its tough paint, the same I used on the sub frame which hopefully means it'll be durable paint. Got bored with just black so painted the fill and drain plugs in go faster ferrari red. The Simonize tough paint takes a long while to dry so I'll give it a couple of days before doing an oil change and getting it bolted into the frame. Before and after shots on the diff. The diff didn't look that bad on the car but should look a lot fresher now with its new paint, new bushes and new bolts.

Anyone who believes this is a 13k mile car needs some serious medical attention for gullibility. There is no way on this planet Earth anyone would dick around and stick a lot of extra plastic and a single turbo conversion on a sub 13k mile Toyota Supra TT6. I'd love to see the VIN plate to check if the car was originally an 040 TT6. Its also now being sold under a different low useage nothing in the last year eBay account to the original listing which is a massive red warning flag to anyone used to dealing on eBay.

Did the diff prep work yesterday with a wire wheel run over, chemical cleaner and then a coating in aquasteel. I've decided against POR 15 painting the diff because the paint is so thin and the surface so rough it'd just pool, run and drip uncontrollably. So instead doing a zinc primer and top coat repaint. Stuck on what top coat to do, the surface is casting rough so gloss black will probably look not quite right. I'm going to try a satin black first see how that looks and hold the matt black in reserve. One thing about underneath my car, its going to be various shades of blackness. Pictures of the wire wheeled diff, treated diff and as it presently stands, primed diff. While the diff is off I have had the vent valve off, it was stuck closed and a lot of bits came out when it was solvent bathed. Works fine after the clean and reinstalled. I've ordered in some Fuchs Syn 5 for an oil change on the diff so tackled the fill and drain plugs. Both plugs were bitches and took a few pulls on a three foot breaker to break free. Why garages do them so tight only they know, back in finger tight only and no sign of any oil seepage so they don't need to be 100lb/ft. The drain plug oil coating does look very black which is surprising seeing the oil was changed about 5,000 miles ago, or maybe I just paid to have it changed? I wont drain the oil until I'm done with the painting. After the diff is top coat painted, that's it for paint.

You'd think having the only Mkiv Supra in the World running on a galvanised sub frame has to be worth something for the novelty factor if nothing else. Other than that I'm not planning on raising the insurance agreed value above the current £24k level.

Last time I checked the alternator function it was 12.8V standing and 14.0V on idle.

Amayama is a bit like Russian roulette. Sometimes you will ask for a quote, to check parts are available and no quote ever comes through. So you go firm and order instead. They reserve the right to cancel and refund parts they can no longer source. Worst case I had last year was ordering some bushes and padded out the order with a lot of bits I didn't really need to spread the freight costs. Bushes got cancelled and the things I didn't need got shipped as you, unlike Amayama, have no option to cancel. So ended up as expensive freight for parts I didn't really need. People say Japan outlet is much more likely to cancel parts on you than the UAE outlet which I can confirm, I've had much more issues ordering from the Japan Amayama warehouse.

Had the final big ticket item turn up yesterday, a HKS Racing exhaust. Next day delivery, I cancelled my Blitz Nur order with Fensport placed in June as the exhaust has been delayed many times and has only just hit the water with a near to Christmas delivery date. The HKS racing exhaust looks a big exhaust, lets hope its not too noisy for the neighbours! Finished painting up both of the deconstructed hubs and the bearings and new bush are being pressed home on Friday.Started on the differential today which is the final item to prep and paint and that should be finished by Saturday. Then its just the reassembly to do which I have already started with the exhaust hanger and shields. The removed trim is awaiting new fittings, which should land soon having been ordered over 2 weeks ago, before going back onto the car so the end is clearly in sight now. Time involved so far on this project: Me 60 hours Mechanic mate 8 hours Welder 10 hours (including travel time) Total to date approx. 75 man hours (Ed China can rebuild an entire car in less time than that) Costs to date Bushes, arms, pipes, tank guard, tank straps and fittings Amayama £780 Toyota Oxford £2,880 TCB £450 Other Parts Wheel Bearings £190 Discs £100 Brake pads £120 Handbrake shoes £45 Drop links £60 Sway bar £120 Fuel pump £70 Fuel tank breather pipe (self fabricated) £25 HKS Exhaust £720 Frame (second hand) £600 Frame prep £220 Materials Paints £140 Chemicals £65 Sanding discs £15 Exhaust putty, gaskets and hangers £30 Outside labour Welder £200 Mechanic support (FOC) Total spend so far £6,830, that still hurts.

Shropshire to Surrey home visits . Get a bed ready for him, that'd be an overnighter.

The diff is a solid heavy lump, I know - I'm getting mine ready for paint at the moment. So nothing in the diff or the frame its attached to is going to creak or groan on lifting a car. Needs checking out though till you are sure everything is there, in the correct place and secure.

That has to be the highest private ad price asked since 1999 for an auto Supra.

Are you sure? I hate to think what Mr T would charge for them but the part number is WCC69336U for reference.

Macs is a facelift cat which is in excellent condition and I can recommend anyone looking for one to go to him first. Unfortunately for me, according to a previous discussion on this site the facelift and pre facelift cats have slightly different angles such that the exhaust heads off pointing to the n/s wheel if I were to fit a facelift 2nd cat; meaning you cannot interchange the parts. So if anyone has a good condition pre-facelift TT 2nd cat sitting around after a decat, do feel free to let me know.