rider

Your budget statement doesn't make a lot of sense. I doubt you'd see a top condition UK TT6 for under £25k these days so thats not at all likely to be an option for you. You will also not see many fresh import TT6's for much under £25k these days. So you can probably narrow it down straight away to a top condition recent import or a less than top condition UK TT6. Top conditions singles that were former TT6 again rarely inhabit the sub £25k asking price. So for singles the NA-T World would be your oyster or generally older single from TT conversions. You may want to seek advice on power options from stock through BPU through to wherever you want to take it. Do you mind running solid mounts to go for the higher HP? Everyone wants that car that has no faults perfect but you'll see from every advert placed on this site that probably doesn't exist in a 20 year old car. The time of ownership is secondary these days to the mileage. I'd say most people park up their Supras these days with only a small minority using the car as their only car or main driver. It comes down to what do you want after 6 years? Do you really want an old single that will be six years older or a TT6 that will be also 6 years older but that wont matter? Do you want an investment vehicle or something you can rag and rag some more? Supra ownership is split in two, you have the modders who bling and blow and you have the rockers who like the old time finesse of how Toyota put the cars together and strive to keep them that way. Its horses for courses and those two horses aren't in the same race. First choice you should make is which horse do you really want to ride.

From the rugged wilds of Shropshire trudging the sheep for a head count. Brought in by Maysie the Welsh Collie who didn't make the shot because she had to go back and fetch the rest in. Life is tough in the Shropshire hills. luckily though this field is about 1,000 yards from the local pub. [ATTACH=CONFIG]223607[/ATTACH]

Final fixtures and fittings arrived yesterday so I spent an hour or so yesterday and a couple of hours this morning getting the bits in order and all the trim back on that can go back on before the frame and tank are back. With the cooler air intakes, ducting and grilles back on its starting to look more like a Supra again. Couple of water traps that came up on my car. The air cooler grilles that butt against the rubber ducting were wet behind the rubber. Not damp but very wet and rusting had started to take major hold in parts. this area seems to collect and retain lots of water. Similarly behind the cabin air vent which has what looks like door insulation strip gasket to the body and its similarly absorbent. That was wet, sopping wet with rusting beyond surface rust in parts. My remedy was either apply a bead of silicone sealant around the grill and vent or slap a lot of water repellent grease on and around the areas. I went with the latter because I have a big bucket of grease to hand and I was planning on smearing grease over all the new bolts anyway to protect the heads. The 12 bolts holding the cooler grille were amongst some of the most badly corroded on the car which isn't surprising seeing there get everything thrown at them where they sit. Some of these bolt had heads that had corroded away to a near conical stub and required welding globs of metal to them to give something for an extractor to grab onto. I now have nothing left to do until the hubs return.

Roughly how much was it? I'm trying to make myself feel better about doing it myself.

Just wondering if you plan on tackling your rear frame next while the bushes and arms are still available?

The condenser when you could still get one via Mr T was always an expensive item, £450 even in 2004 and it takes a good few expensive mechanic man hours to strip down the front end of a Supra to get to the condenser and then there was a certified refrigerant bod to come out and evacuate the system and recharge it. Thats why I'm wary when people say a system just needs a regass. You can get the DIY kits off eBay for a simple regass. Seriously, I wouldn't pitch a 200k mile Supra at more than £15k for insurance and £11k retail. Might appear harsh compared to your hoped for price but thats not being harsh at all and you did ask for opinions. Hopefully a few others can help point you towards a more realistic pitch should you take the car to a wider audience through PH or autotrader. I'd say £10k for a quick sale, £11k about right, £19k you'll be keeping hold of the car for a very long time becuase thats where the market is for the top end private with normally sub 100k miles. Only show quality TT6s or fresh import trade command over £20k.

Halfords have a decent black Friday sale on this week with keenly priced socket set and storage cabinets. I'm using one of the Halfords socket sets on my current sub frame swap and in particular the 1/4 inch drive and hex sockets have had a hammering with no split sockets or broken ratchet.

There is nothing dragging down the arms until the hub is installed so the upper control arm was tightened in a horizontal loaded position which will be close to its on road position but being the upper arms they rotate on the bush reasonably freely anyway. The plan with the rest is to tighten with the hub in the riding position (rather than resting gravity position) and then finally torque up with the road wheel sitting on a raised platform. That will be close enough to the settled road position and still leave plenty of room underneath to wield 3 foot bars. I've used the wheels lowered down onto a variable height (hydraulic) platform before on other cars to change out suspension parts and it works well. My mechanic mate said he will do the final frame torque setting with the car weight sat on both road wheels.

Did get around to adding the arms to the frame this morning. It wasn't as straightforward as anticipated because several of the bolt holes were too small for the bolts; a consequence of the galvanizing process. So several of the bolt holes had to be reamed out with the old bolts first. The only arms torqued to spec are the upper control arms with the rest just nipped tight pending fitment of the hubs which will probably happen sometime this weekend along with the new discs. One part that I did have to recycle is the routing clip for the ABS lead, this and the upper control arm insert that the clip bolts through are both discontinued according to MT T Oxford branch. I couldn't find part numbers for them anywhere. On the later facelift models the metal clips were replaced by plastic ones which are an integral part of the later ABS leads. One of my clips was rusted and holed. I treated the clips to a HCl dip and repaired any rust damage with epoxy putty and you'd be hard pressed to find the repair. Glad I got to them when I did or the ABS lead could have ended up waving around in the wind. Its maybe something people running pre facelift cars should have a check; to see how their thin steel ABS lead clips are bearing up. ABS lead clip on upper control arms.

Out of alignment tyres can create instability to.

Much cheaper, the facelift cats were new a little over 1/4 of the price so must use less precious metals. I wish I'd kept the link to the former thread that said if you use a facelift cat the exhaust heads off to the rear wheel.

So many things could be wrong that cause this behaviour. Bouncing when travelling in a straight line suggests to me look for a broken spring or knackered shock first. Skipping when cornering then you'd be into ball joints, bearing play, bushes and even a broken sway bar as possible causes.

Aicon needs a regas cost me a not so cool £1k in 2004 with a front end strip down, new condenser, front end rebuild and regas. If it only needs a regas it would be sensible to just get it regassed for around £70. Punters will expect no bad bits perfect for £19k on a 200k+ miler. A black UK spec TT6 similar mileage sold this year only made half the price you are pitching at, that did have some bad bits though particularly on the paint. Add in the MOT history of sub frame damage, oil leaks and corrosion comments and £19k is going to be a stretch.

Another Supra couple of hours today. Changed the diff oil and then brought it together with the frame and coupled up the drive shafts as well. Maybe get the arms on tomorrow? Nothing tightened more than nip tight before the hubs go back on.

The dash off and no start may not be a cause and effect. I'd do the normal checks for a car that wont start along the lines of is there a spark at the plugs and is there fuel reaching the rail before suspecting anything behind the dash?

I have compiled a comprehensive list of torque specs for my rear end underside refurb rebuild which may be useful for others: Torque setting Frame to body Rear frame rear cushions 43 lb/ft (58NM) Rear frame front cushions 129 lb/ft Prop and differential Prop to diff bolts 58 lb/ft Drive shaft to differential 61 lb/ft Differential mount bolts front 108 lb/ft Differential mount bolts rear 105 lb/ft Sway bar Stabilizer bar drop link (both) 54 lb/ft Stabilizer bar bracket 13 lb/ft Suspension arms Upper arm to frame 121 lb/ft Upper arm ball joint nut 80 lb/ft Lower #2 arm to frame 136 lb/ft Lower #2 arm ball joint nut 121 lb/ft Lower #2 arm to shock 101 lb/ft Lower #1 arm to frame 136 lb/ft Lower #1 arm ball joint nut 43 lb/ft Strut rod to frame 136 lb/ft Strut rod to hub 136 lb/ft Hub Shaft Lock nut 213 lb/ft Others Brake calliper to hub 77 lb/ft Exhaust cat #2 to pipe bolts 43 lb/ft Hand brake cable to hub plate bolts 69 lb/ft Handbrake shoe guide plate bolt 13 lb/ft Handbrake cable clamp to frame bolts 14 lb/ft I'd always advise people to check torque settings for themselves but these are what I'm going with.

Bump, still available - cheapest 16" set in Supra World, with caps and a couple of good tyres.

Homer, one of our Super Mods, wrote that there is a difference. Why don't you PM him to find out more?

The sub frame must have taken a significan jolt through the arms to shear off a brace bolt . You probably wouldn't know if the control arm mount has been damaged until the wheel alignment was checked/set. I'm sure if someone off here buys it they will go in with their eyes wide open and price accordingly but I'd recommend caution about statements that the frame and other drive and suspension components are undamaged without having that geometrically confirmed.

There is a L and R set for sale on eBay at the moment with not takers at £100 the pair. Been on a while so the seller should be open to an offer.

I thought all UK spec Supras came with the rear wing, active front spoiler and front bumper washers as standard? My French isn't great but the parts list doesn't seem to include the drive shaft and that looks like its been bent. Also if the sub frame brace has popped a bolt does that not mean the sub frame could be twisted? Could make wheel alignment interesting.

For the parts market price place them on an eBay auction and advertise on FB and you'll find out. If you can wait for a buyer then the parts that regularly get listed at Supra parts prices are: Bumper £300 (only because it has the washers that lots of people threw away and they are discontinued) Fuel Tank - £100 if its in really good condition Side skirts £100 the pair Side vents £100 the pair (assuming all clips are in good shape, but you should note the pods were OE colour coded) The glass tends to be sold as part of the tailgate or doors and I've never seen a windscreen offered for sale. Arch liners are pretty much worthless as who doesn't have arch liners. No idea what looms might be worth. Any ECU's will be more valuable but I guess they have probably already been stripped.

Painting over except maybe some touch up I'll likely need to do on the hubs after their reassembly and bearing fitment. I'm happy with the way the satin black on the diff came out. Its tough paint, the same I used on the sub frame which hopefully means it'll be durable paint. Got bored with just black so painted the fill and drain plugs in go faster ferrari red. The Simonize tough paint takes a long while to dry so I'll give it a couple of days before doing an oil change and getting it bolted into the frame. Before and after shots on the diff. The diff didn't look that bad on the car but should look a lot fresher now with its new paint, new bushes and new bolts.

Anyone who believes this is a 13k mile car needs some serious medical attention for gullibility. There is no way on this planet Earth anyone would dick around and stick a lot of extra plastic and a single turbo conversion on a sub 13k mile Toyota Supra TT6. I'd love to see the VIN plate to check if the car was originally an 040 TT6. Its also now being sold under a different low useage nothing in the last year eBay account to the original listing which is a massive red warning flag to anyone used to dealing on eBay.