rider

Seems you guys all get your servicing and repair work done at Toyota. That does surprise me.

Every single is one less NA or TT and usually a big breaking list a few years down the line. I love it.

Amayama have a bad habit of cancelling parts that are ordered and paid for so are a hit and miss source for parts, increasingly miss as parts get discontinued. I contacted them about my failed sub frame cam bolt and nut to find out what their warranty position is. Be worried, be very worried. So, if you haven't had the parts fitted by Toyota forget any warranty. Even if you do, try getting a Toyota spanner to write you a statement that they fitted the part, on Toyota premises and on headed paper. Hoops followed by more hoops and the last one is undoubtedly a hoop too far. Then you need to post the part back!

There isn't much to back up I'm using Office Professional 2007 but you are safe under Windows 7. Its all part of their Windows 10 enhancements to get everyone using Edge, Cortana and Office 365. Its probably a deliberate ploy to disable MS Office on CD Software to push more people to their subscription Office 365 online offering.

Not every day is a good Supra day. Been fixing the hubs onto the frame over the last two days and got one side done yesterday with the second set for today. Using a hydraulic platform the arms are raised to ride height before setting the torque onto the frame. I had to remove then reinstall the drive shafts as there was no way I could get my torque set on the upper arm ball joint with the shaft in place, I found there just isn't quite enough room around it with the tools I have available. First side went on fine and today I've got all the ball joints set and torqued on the second hub. Tackling the first frame linkage, a lower arm cam bolt the nut loosened off while I was tightening to the torque setting, a clear sign the threads had stripped inside the nut and it is left stranded spinning on the bolt. Couldn't wind it off even though I forcing a screwdriver behind to apply outward force and used a impact drive. So ended up drilling the nut on opposing flats and splitting it. I wonder if Amayama will reimburse the defective parts, I'll be asking as the cam bolts aren't cheap. I'm going to have to recycle an old bolt and nut for this lower arm. That'll be tomorrow now.

I took. I must admit, a slight degree in satisfaction in recalling an actual incident and the last time I saw an air cooled 911 being driven on the road, well it'd actually just left the road going backward through a fence 15 yards after exiting a roundabout on the Shrewsbury inner ring road. Said that had never happened to me.

No pst backup. Its no great operational loss other than its best to keep 6 years archive on everything including employee and customer communication in case anyone queries anything.

Quite a few of us older ones had MkIII's at one time or another. I had a Met Black manual Turbo that was a lot of fun. Only sold it to get a family car when the kids turned up but quickly gave the wife the family car and got myself the Mkiv I have today. Did a plate run on it not so long ago and there is no record so it probably ended its useful life a while back. Its good to see the MkIII's are becoming more appreciated these days.

I have all my PCs set to do auto updates from Microsoft and fell foul of a 'known' problem with an update incompatibility with Office or office Professional software that predates 2013. The update centres on the Office online 365 and kills all MS Outlook email data including accounts and emails. I lost years of email archive as its not recoverable. You cannot simply uninstall and reinstall the software. The only way to restore Outlook under Office Professional is to reformat the PC to factory fresh and reload all your software from there. There is one way around it for anyone who hasn't had the 'enhanced experience' packages installed and that is to uninstall Microsoft 365 Office from the PC before these 'enhancement' hit your PC. MS is working on a resolution but its too late for me and from comments online, for many others as well. Be warned, it will fuck up your day.

That would make sense seeing there are no part numbers for the bracket support that I could find.

When I worked the stand last year it was the Porshe owners, located close by in the next hall, who were the snooty crowd when they strolled by. I have had loads of Fords and still have one, I've never felt or noticed the conflict with Jap you mention. I think all cars are interesting, apart from BMW's [GRIN][/GRIN].

You must be too young to have ever tried a Ford Cortina MkV. Effortless and precise. But I doubt the gearbox would have withstood 1,000bhp.

Looks like another successful NEC event and a lot goes on behind the scenes with setting up and tearing down. Be good to see a UK car make it next year if there is one and a slot available.

If I was driving around London I'd want an automatic. If I was going on a long journey regularly to the South of Europe I'd want an automatic. When my car comes out to play on the local B roads on a sunny day, as it is essentially restricted to doing these days, I want a manual. Everything has its place.

Seeing you are in Shropshire as well you are more than welcome to come by and look at mine up on the ramp and I'll show you a lot of the right places to look at on a Supra. You'd need to do that within the next 2 days though as I'm hoping to have it all bolted back together and off ramp by Sunday.

Your budget statement doesn't make a lot of sense. I doubt you'd see a top condition UK TT6 for under £25k these days so thats not at all likely to be an option for you. You will also not see many fresh import TT6's for much under £25k these days. So you can probably narrow it down straight away to a top condition recent import or a less than top condition UK TT6. Top conditions singles that were former TT6 again rarely inhabit the sub £25k asking price. So for singles the NA-T World would be your oyster or generally older single from TT conversions. You may want to seek advice on power options from stock through BPU through to wherever you want to take it. Do you mind running solid mounts to go for the higher HP? Everyone wants that car that has no faults perfect but you'll see from every advert placed on this site that probably doesn't exist in a 20 year old car. The time of ownership is secondary these days to the mileage. I'd say most people park up their Supras these days with only a small minority using the car as their only car or main driver. It comes down to what do you want after 6 years? Do you really want an old single that will be six years older or a TT6 that will be also 6 years older but that wont matter? Do you want an investment vehicle or something you can rag and rag some more? Supra ownership is split in two, you have the modders who bling and blow and you have the rockers who like the old time finesse of how Toyota put the cars together and strive to keep them that way. Its horses for courses and those two horses aren't in the same race. First choice you should make is which horse do you really want to ride.

From the rugged wilds of Shropshire trudging the sheep for a head count. Brought in by Maysie the Welsh Collie who didn't make the shot because she had to go back and fetch the rest in. Life is tough in the Shropshire hills. luckily though this field is about 1,000 yards from the local pub. [ATTACH=CONFIG]223607[/ATTACH]

Final fixtures and fittings arrived yesterday so I spent an hour or so yesterday and a couple of hours this morning getting the bits in order and all the trim back on that can go back on before the frame and tank are back. With the cooler air intakes, ducting and grilles back on its starting to look more like a Supra again. Couple of water traps that came up on my car. The air cooler grilles that butt against the rubber ducting were wet behind the rubber. Not damp but very wet and rusting had started to take major hold in parts. this area seems to collect and retain lots of water. Similarly behind the cabin air vent which has what looks like door insulation strip gasket to the body and its similarly absorbent. That was wet, sopping wet with rusting beyond surface rust in parts. My remedy was either apply a bead of silicone sealant around the grill and vent or slap a lot of water repellent grease on and around the areas. I went with the latter because I have a big bucket of grease to hand and I was planning on smearing grease over all the new bolts anyway to protect the heads. The 12 bolts holding the cooler grille were amongst some of the most badly corroded on the car which isn't surprising seeing there get everything thrown at them where they sit. Some of these bolt had heads that had corroded away to a near conical stub and required welding globs of metal to them to give something for an extractor to grab onto. I now have nothing left to do until the hubs return.

Roughly how much was it? I'm trying to make myself feel better about doing it myself.

Just wondering if you plan on tackling your rear frame next while the bushes and arms are still available?

The condenser when you could still get one via Mr T was always an expensive item, £450 even in 2004 and it takes a good few expensive mechanic man hours to strip down the front end of a Supra to get to the condenser and then there was a certified refrigerant bod to come out and evacuate the system and recharge it. Thats why I'm wary when people say a system just needs a regass. You can get the DIY kits off eBay for a simple regass. Seriously, I wouldn't pitch a 200k mile Supra at more than £15k for insurance and £11k retail. Might appear harsh compared to your hoped for price but thats not being harsh at all and you did ask for opinions. Hopefully a few others can help point you towards a more realistic pitch should you take the car to a wider audience through PH or autotrader. I'd say £10k for a quick sale, £11k about right, £19k you'll be keeping hold of the car for a very long time becuase thats where the market is for the top end private with normally sub 100k miles. Only show quality TT6s or fresh import trade command over £20k.

Halfords have a decent black Friday sale on this week with keenly priced socket set and storage cabinets. I'm using one of the Halfords socket sets on my current sub frame swap and in particular the 1/4 inch drive and hex sockets have had a hammering with no split sockets or broken ratchet.

There is nothing dragging down the arms until the hub is installed so the upper control arm was tightened in a horizontal loaded position which will be close to its on road position but being the upper arms they rotate on the bush reasonably freely anyway. The plan with the rest is to tighten with the hub in the riding position (rather than resting gravity position) and then finally torque up with the road wheel sitting on a raised platform. That will be close enough to the settled road position and still leave plenty of room underneath to wield 3 foot bars. I've used the wheels lowered down onto a variable height (hydraulic) platform before on other cars to change out suspension parts and it works well. My mechanic mate said he will do the final frame torque setting with the car weight sat on both road wheels.

Did get around to adding the arms to the frame this morning. It wasn't as straightforward as anticipated because several of the bolt holes were too small for the bolts; a consequence of the galvanizing process. So several of the bolt holes had to be reamed out with the old bolts first. The only arms torqued to spec are the upper control arms with the rest just nipped tight pending fitment of the hubs which will probably happen sometime this weekend along with the new discs. One part that I did have to recycle is the routing clip for the ABS lead, this and the upper control arm insert that the clip bolts through are both discontinued according to MT T Oxford branch. I couldn't find part numbers for them anywhere. On the later facelift models the metal clips were replaced by plastic ones which are an integral part of the later ABS leads. One of my clips was rusted and holed. I treated the clips to a HCl dip and repaired any rust damage with epoxy putty and you'd be hard pressed to find the repair. Glad I got to them when I did or the ABS lead could have ended up waving around in the wind. Its maybe something people running pre facelift cars should have a check; to see how their thin steel ABS lead clips are bearing up. ABS lead clip on upper control arms.

Out of alignment tyres can create instability to.