rider

I purchased a spare set of turbos off a very low mileage (aren't they always?) recent import that was converted to a single for a customer. They came with one turbo having a major amount of shaft play so I'm going to have both refurbished before laying down as ready to fit. Does anyone know of a turbo refurb outfit in Shropshire or the West Midlands they can recommend?

Appreciate the input gents. I'll leave the coils as is and just get the plugs and hoses and buy in a set of pigtail clips in case any give up when disconnected from the coils. The plugs haven't been visited in almost 10 years so things may have got themselves brittle in that time.

Its time to change out the iridium plugs next year (NGK BKR7EIX) and I'm wondering whether it'd be worthwhile doing the breather pipes, coil packs and clips at the same time seeing they are all original 22 year old components? With coil packs and clips are they best left alone till they fail or is it worth spending say £200 on NGK alternatives or £400 on OE Denso replacements (from USA, they are £650 in the UK)? Also with the clips is it best to just replace the housing or go for the pigtail option and solder onto the loom wiring?

Travelling around Japan is particularly brave as outside of the main cities none of the signs are in English which could make for some unintended destinations reached by bus or train. Make sure you have broadband roaming, I'd imagine google Translate will help out there which wasn't an option when I last visited Japan. In Taiwan most of the fishing is out of the NW and you may be able to blag a trip out to go humpback dolphin and Chinese destroyer spotting. Shame you aren't also touring the East rim of China while out there, I found that a real wow from the riverside skyline of Shanghai to the great wall walks just North of Beijing. There may be visa issues Taiwan and China though which is why I used to have 2 passports. Fascinating part of the World and the food, that'll probably be quite a bit different to what you are expecting unless you happen to have been there before. Retiring at 39, I'm leaving it late.

I've owned my TT6 for very nearly 20 years and changed nothing on it bar swapping out the yellow side indicators for clear which I think look better on a white car. I have kept hold of the yellow lenses so nothing lost. As others say, the stock 3 box exhaust is very quiet compared to a single box cat back option, mine came with a Blitz Nur on it and presently has a HKS but I did have 2 stock exhaust systems in-between. Reliability is legendary if the car has been maintained to a suitable level. The only non service items changed on my car have been a a/c condenser that was holed and the FMIC due to rotten fins. The turbos have been good for 110k miles so far and thankfully show no signs of getting tired. Modding a Supra was all the rage and an easy investment decision to make when the cars could be picked up for under £5k. Now with TT6's edging £20k its a tougher call as mods add little or nothing to the cars value and will potentially restrict its appeal to a more specialist market. if I've not uprated or upgraded or put my individual mark on the car in 20 years of ownership then I don't think I'll be starting now. It hasn't even been treated to a respray.

Mine must be on the wrong way round because they were both down to push out the shoes and 8 teeth up to release to achieve a good handbrake.

I'm going to adjust the handbrake shoes and was wondering which way the adjustment cog needs rotating to tighten each side. Found this on a thread: Is the author of this thinking straight or confused?

Fitting a stock bumper will be a massive improvement over that ill fitting one and definitely help your sale of the car. You chances of finding a 040 stock front bumper are however very low but there is a silver one running currently on eBay listed for £300 or best offer.

In all the years I lived in and travelled around the USA I never once saw anyone driving around in a RHD car. I cannot imagine there are many, beyond UK or Aussie immigrants who would consider it an option. There are jspec cars already entering the USA for parts, I have bought jspec parts from US breakers at very keen prices. A few RHD cars will get driven in the US but I'd have thought that would be the more specialist highly modded 1000hp cars that can be dragged and raced rather than the stock ones which will be primarily viewed as a ready source for parts. I can't see RHD imports having any depressing impact on LHD domestic car prices and I doubt the opening up of the US market on the 25 year rule will have much impact on Japan or UK prices. Probably more on Euro spec Supras. If you are looking at importing a TT6 then expect to pay much more than $25k. That'd get you a very decent car FOB at the moment but you'd then have freight, duty and taxes on top. No idea what the US duty rate is and what sales taxes would apply to an import but when importing from Japan into the UK those will add around 35% to the cost over the FOB price.

For pairing this might be some use, from memory the ECU is under the passenger seat but my memory is fading. With the revs cycling between 750 and 1000rpm its not something innocuous like the a/c compressor cutting in and out? You can get rapid cycling on the a/c compressor clutch if the pressure in the system is low, high enough to beat the low pressure cut off but too low to prevent a vacuum on the inlet side which will activate the low pressure cut off.

There is a tube video with a guy using an electric jig saw to cut around the rubber to leave the metal ring that is bent into the centre and taken out. The front mounts bang out with a sturdy hammer blow. from the bottom, then once lifted a crow bar will fetch them out.

I have experienced the downside of DBW in a Mitsubishi L200 with the throttle pedal position sensor failing every 2 to 3 years and its a fairly expensive part to replace (£150 a time). What advantages would DBW as opposed to a cable pull bring to a Supra as the main safety advantages of DBW seem tied into a lot of other position and speed sensors which are not available on a 20 year old car?

Front bar listed now on eBay if you are looking for one with the front bumper.

Interesting comments in the Amazon customer review section on these. Seems they can lose their stickiness fairly quickly, probably dust and dirt will do that and cars can be a dusty dirty inerior space. on a hot day.

This thread has some diagrams with wire colour code info so could point you where you need pointing.

You would indeed, fitment should be OK then. The front ABS sensors were both available via Rock Auto last time I checked if you are looking to fill the set.

An interesting side note is that Japanese cars pioneered folding mirrors for a practical reason so that as cars got themselves wider they could still navigate narrow streets in Japan. That's why the Japanese cars have switches to activate the mirrors whereas later European ones were automatic; ignition or entry activated. It looks like someone may have decided to refresh the exterior with later facelift parts including the front bumper and wheels, if you like the look then maybe add on the facelift rear lights that would be a nice touch to the facelift theme. I'd keep a close eye on the waxoyl as that can be used to hide a lot of things, especially if its been recently applied. These cars are entering their vintage so rust, particularly underneath, is something that does occur. I seem to recall the early Supras either had silver or on jspec white cars gold metal badges. These do fade with time, the originals are metal with the later ones and eBay specials inferior coated plastic. So, your black badge may well have been silver at one time. I have a black badge on the front of my supra that was once, gold. Have fun and if you have bought a good one you will be amazed how dependable and reliable it is. I've had Audi's and they do great cabins but I've always had lots of issues with them by comparison to my Supra.

On the hubs off the facelift frame I used for the swap the ABS sensors looked to be bigger (as in wider) than the ones on my pre-facelift hubs. If it does turn out to be a wider sensor then next thing to look at would be the pickup ring on the drive shafts. If that is the same pre to post facelift then you'd imagine that the sensor housing could be machined to accommodate a larger sensor.

The alignment was checked this morning and he went away saying it was all spot on and nothing needed adjustment. So it seems setting the cams to the same position as those on the frame I removed set the car alignment up nicely. For those undertaking an arm change rather than a full frame swap just take a picture of the cam (bolt head side) and reposition by aligning the hole in the cam face relative to the centre of the bolt to the exact same position as before. Then you wont be far off and possibly hit it bang on. Car is now tucked away in the garage for the Winter or a sunny dry day.

No, thankfully they didn't break the screen. Charged £40 for the out and then come back a few days later for the back in, that was three years ago though.

£3k sounds about right. Your prices look discounted or old compared to prices I paid in September to TCB. You went in double bulk on these purchases so maybe did get a little extra discount than if you hadn't pooled your purchase. It might be worth getting a up to date price from TCB and you'll probably find your no profit price is actually a discounted sale which may make it more appealing to potential buyers.

Yes. Autoglass removed and replaced mine. Only thing is they wont offer any warranty because its not a screen they stock which I assumed meant its also no longer a screen Toyota stock. You'll need a new window seal, Keron was the cheapest place for one of those.

There are a few light units listed on eBay but none of them what you would call cheap, so hopefully someone from here can sort you out as there must be quite a few sitting around doing nothing from facelift light upgrades.

Probably worthwhile adding tools used: Halfords 170 piece socket set (can't talk it up enough, took everything thrown its way) 15lb sledgehammer (for seating the frame bushes) M6X1, M8X1 and M12X1.25 taps (to remove residual zinc from the frame threads or restore the thread after drilling out bolts for the hanger) 5mm carbide drill bit (to drill some irremovable M6 bolts) Point nose pliers (handbrake cable and split pins) 12mm allen socket (for the rear diff mount bolts) 30mm hex socket (for the hub lock nut) 3/8" drive impact extractor for 6mm to 13mm bolts (needed to draw out some of the 10mm and 11mm bolts with corroded heads) 200NM torque wrench, 1/2" drive 350NM torque wrench, 1/2" drive 1" paint brushes (several) Mechanic matey sent me over a couple of pics taken outside his house yesterday when I dropped him off. A Supra always looks better from above rather than from below.