rider

I run a hard wired and a DLAN network for the home and business (same site but two entirely separate buildings). I get pretty much the same speed at the filter, at the router, at the Ethernet and at the DLAN (wireless or wired). There is no more than 2Mb difference on a 20Mb filter delivery. So if you are seeing a large drop then I recon you have issues with your filter or you have an overloaded network with several bandwidth hungry applications or your adapters are poorly located. If you access the router (BT Hub) menu you will be able to see the number of devices connected and there should be a menu option to see how much data each connection is pulling in (a historical total since last reset). You may not be able to easily identify the item as you may be presented with a MAC address list but it will give you an idea what is happening across the network and if you have something hogging the network and bandwidth. With the DLAN part of my network I find that the location of the plugs has a serious impact on speeds obtained, I have sockets in the building with virtually no connectivity and others with excellent connectivity. I used the Devolo plugs and their monitoring cockpit software. With the software you can see the data speed available from each socket location you try. Also, you do need to plug the DLAN adapter plugs directly into the socket, never into an extension or multiple outlet plug. Because the socket choice can have such a major impact on data speeds available I only use the wireless adapters. Then if its a good location and my PC happens to be nearby, of kodi box, or TV or whatever then I can connect it by a cable. If its not nearby then I used the wifi to connect. Adapter location is very sensitive so if you don't have monitoring software to see the connected data speed that the location yields then you will be working very much in the dark.

I tend to run around with the a/c on permanently seeing its really useful for keeping all the glass clear of condensation in cold weather and of course the car cool on the occasional hot day. If the a/c isn't working I'd at least want to know why it isn't working as components are not cheap and replacing the condenser or evaporator is not a small task. A holed condenser cost me nearly £1k (just over half was labour and regas, just under half was parts) to replace and that was over 10 years ago. If someone is asking top money then everything should be working, I think anyone who pitches top end and then lists a load of 'bad bits' is a dreamer. Every fault is worth a discount and then its up to you whether you live with it or fix it.

Its OK I've taken the crash bar.

I had both front dust shields replaced at the same time as the wheel bearings were changed which seemed a sensible thing to do. Not cut and botched but old for new.

I read this morning that the new Wheeler dealer series, the first without Ed, is due to air from the beginning of January on the Discovery Channel with Brewer now teamed alongside Ant Anstead. This was news to me as I've already watched the series on the dodgy box and its much better than I expected it'd be. Ant is a decent Ed replacement. Its set entirely in the USofA which does take it definitely into a Yankee show as compared to recent series that were split with lowering UK time relative to USA time, now the UK is history. There is one episode on the old Celica Supra and one on a Brit classic of a Healey 3000, a car I would dearly love to own, with the rest being some of Detroit's not so finest. Overall they have pulled off the Ed free series well, pity it is now very much an American car show with a couple of limeys doing the commentary. I suspect we will never see anything again that wasn't well received into the US market.

I'd personally go for the proven reliable modified setup because these cars aren't cheap to fix but are cheap to run entirely because of their reliability. It'd be useful to see a recent dyno on the car to make sure its moving and picking up strongly in the real world on the road rev range.

Not for the shy or retiring types but would need to have a deep love of plastic. £23k.

There is one thing to be said for a 14 year old modded car, clearly it was done right as it has proved reliable over a good time period. The issue for modders is do you chase the latest and greatest mods and if you do you probably need to set aside good sums of cash for a refresh every five to ten years. £26k is about right 14 years ago if the car is 16 or 17 years old, so a late facelift model. I paid £20k for my car back in 1998 (non modded) when it was 2 years old. £26k then would be around £40k now so a fair chunk of change. I'd much rather buyers who want a modded car buy a modded car and tweak it rather than take out another stock car. £26k though is strong money for a modded Supra so it is a figure likely to persuade many to part with their cars and maybe you should look at least one other if only for a comparison before taking the plunge.

Cant locate a write up for the removal of the front sub frame and assembly. Does anyone have any pointers, particularly regarding any requirement to support the engine and transmission on jacks during the swap over and what to do with the steering rack during the process. Should that be taken off with the frame and hubs or uncoupled and left with the car?

Qualified has to be where people have been impressed with the results in terms of job done and price charged.

It'd be useful for those who don't DIY on the underside titillation to have a list of 'qualified' professional outfits that do. As the marque evolves towards garage queens there will be many more needing this service over the next few years.

None of the RM shipped items were sent tracked but the three affected suppliers have all been contacted and agreed to try again with a second shipment. I've told them all to hold off until this weekend to give RM a few days longer to get it sorted. Being Mercedes parts the only local option to get them would be from the local dealer which would mean paying 30% more and having to go drive over to pick them up. Its not the missing parts I'm worried about as the eBay sellers will resend some others, it my mums Christmas card that is also missing in the no mail for 8 days. We usually get half a dozen items a day in a mix between personal and business mail so with additional seasonal cards we are probably missing 60, maybe 70 items of post.

I ordered 8 items from 8 different eBay sellers last week, on the 5th, for an upcoming car service. Clearly the snow got in the way of some deliveries but the five shipped by courier have all arrived (by the 13th) but the three items shipped via Royal Mail are nowhere to be seen. I haven't even had a letter, circular, Christmas card, statement, Charity begging letter or any general item delivered by Royal Mail since the 7th. The Royal Mail van has shown up the last 2 days with Amazon parcels but nothing else and not the car parts ordered on the 5th. I expect they will end up in a Royal Mail unclaimed items auction or behind a hedge somewhere. I think Royal Mail will die one day.

That reads exactly what I am planning. The steering is really tight on the car so I will just leave alone unless someone comes up with some rubber bits that are best addressed after 22 years while you are in the vicinity. On the sub frame zinc dip I'm considering it is supposed to give aluminium (or steel) up to 20 years protection against oxidation. Its a process that I believe is used on chequer plate to give that shiny chequer plate much loved by the Land Rover boys to put on top of wings and sometimes everywhere that is flat. Anyone remember how it all came out of the Supra factory? Was it painted, bare or lacquered? As Mark says, the front doesn't suffer anywhere near as much as the rear frame and associated components so it may just turn out to be a sand and paint when I take a close look at the swap frame I have. The under tray has a very minor split, a result of speed hump grounding by the parallel scrapes on that part of the tray. I'd rather leave it alone unless anyone has a good one laying around needing a new home. I haven't thought about the middle bit yet but I have bought in all new bolts, screws and clips for the sill and exhaust guards and shields ready for if/when.

I have read you can hot or cold zinc dip/coat aluminium so was going to ask a galvanizer or two what their read on it is. I'm more than happy to be guided but the front parts aren't cheaper than the rear. Arms are more expensive and the sway bar is more expensive and the bar bushes are twice the price.

Following on from my recent rear sub frame/rear end overhaul I'm gathering all the parts ready to tackle the front end. I'm also getting a load of interior upgrade parts but thats very much a side distraction. So far I've pulled the following OEM parts together: Second hand Sub frame and sub assembly (to be galvanized) New Upper and lower arms New sway bar and bushes New arm bolts I'll be recycling my existing hubs as they have very recent new discs, bearings and dust shield fitment. I've still to buy in new tie rod ends and all the frame securing bolts. If anyone has a good engine under cover they would be willing to part with I'd be interested in discussing as mine has a slight split which isn't anything that'd justify the cost of buying a new one. Can anyone think of any obvious parts to add or look at around the frame or steering side of the car that could be showing signs of wear after 22 years and 110k miles? Its a project I'm thinking of tackling in Autumn next year so I'll probably start around the Summer with getting the frame and sub assembly off to the galvanizer. The rear end overhaul took 2 months from start to finish, I'm hopeful that tackling the front end will be somewhat easier/quicker.

I can recall the good old days of not so very long ago when between Autotrader, PH and eBay there were 150 Supras on sale at any one time. Plenty of choice that just isn't there today. That must mean one thing only, that people are putting the cars into store as the overall numbers in the country hasn't fallen with breakers replenished by fresh imports. Its common to have 10% of cars available for sale at any one time, with Supras its dropped to more like 1% which isn't a ratio that is going to work in the favour of someone seeking a pick and choose. With £25k available I'd be running a parallel import strategy alongside if one happened to turn up 'locally' all to the good.

Engine does sound a little agricultural compared to others I have heard. Auction ends in 5hrs and set to sell so it'll be interesting to see if it gets relisted again as its looking like it'll struggle to get much beyond £11k which is probably about right.

I checked out a pre-facelift out of curiosity earlier this year, no airbag £1,100. Horn included.

Just pull the cluster, have a look at the PCB, check the tightness of the screws and plug it back in. Then see if it works. If you have checked the foot well fuse and confirmed that's OK then its probably going to be a bad contact or failed PCB.

Looks like its been parked outside for the duration with limited glass so I wouldn't assume any of the interior is salvageable. Anyone bidding has to be gambling either the diff or gearbox is salvageable. If they are it'd be easy money but seeing there is no transmission mentioned in the auction ad that may well already have been removed.

Also, if you pull the dash you'll be able to check the lines on the PCB are all intact and not frazzled.

You'd probably be better served opening this topic up in the technical section rather than new members. It'd be useful to have some extra info though, like has the cluster been touched at all or is it just as it was when everything worked? What kind of blow up was it, did the turbo shatter into 1,000 pieces cutting through hoses and wires or was it an internal component that failed? The last time I had a dash go down on me, on an Audi, taking it out and putting back in again sorted it out which was a relief as the cluster is ECU paired on Audis. So, its an imponderable without a bit more info and then its have a guess from there.

I wouldn't let mileage influence you over condition, that's more a price negotiation lever. On an old car its condition followed by condition and backed up by history.

With the comments on ball joint play and rust on the MOT history I wouldn't have the confidence to bid before seeing it in the metal. The mileage is fairly high, if you take its current mileage plus an additional 35k miles in Japan which would have been on different gauges so bearing play is to be expected. The control arms are expensive so it'd be worth asking if he had the MOT noted ones with joint wear replaced or just boot pumped with grease. £13k is a high end price for a TT auto with this kind of mileage and advisories.