rider

Pity about the write off, are you sure its down to light front damage based upon the cars value in 2012? Impressive though that the extra 3psi gives an additional 115bhp over the standard supercharged Roush stage 3. That'd take the stock transmission to its ragged limit. My 65 Mustang is so much simpler, and slower. Good for cruising.

No, I didn't take it any further as I did finally manage to track down a full set of new front and rear arms.

Do you intend sending a set off to SGS to have new struts fitted to the recycled mounts or are you planning on doing it yourself and will you then be left with a spare set that you swap them with on your car? The reason I ask is I have my old set that are good for refurbing that you can have if you will then hold a spare set that you are willing to pass on free to any fellow member needing a set to refurb to swap with their own knackered struts at some time in the future.

Exhaust pipe hitting the sub frame, worthile checking your mounts are there and not perished?

The guard looks like its been brush painted, thickly. When I took mine off the issues were not on the outside that didn't look at all shabby, but on the inside so could be good to add some inside shots.

There are PB embedded image fix apps to view the pics.

How to remove rear bumper Done a little write up as we have a front bumper guide but no rear one. Step 1: Remove rear lights (two screws holding this in.) Step 2: Remove these retainers under the lights (three each side) Step 3: Remove 3 center retainers on the top of the bumper Step 4: Remove 4 retainers running along the bottom edge of the bumper along with the plastic strip. (Sorry about the picture as I forgot) Step 5: Remove screws at top corners of bumper (one each side) Step 6: Remove number plate Step 7: Release the number plate lights from the bumper by undoing the three screws. Step 8: Remove the retainer above the exhaust (this needs to be pulled out and it might be worth while taking the exhaust mounts off to gain access.) Step 9: Remove lower corner nuts (one each side) Step 10: Remove boot liners on each side Step 11: Remove the two nuts that hold the bumper onto the rear quaters Now the bumper should pull away freely.

The local white TT6 Supra is back on the market but upped to £24k. It has a new front bumper replacing that ill fitting massive one it had before. Maybe it is a brand new bumper because the price has gone up by £2k from memory (new the bumpers are just shy of £2k list, anyway it'd be a prime part to check for fit and colour match and paint quality. The advert says its a fresh import, just in but its been around for a while now so take what they say with a pinch of salt and they may be open to offers seeing its been around a while now. Got to be worth a look anyway. Its a poor ad with only one picture so not a lot of thought has gone into it which will likely limit the numbers rushing to go view.

Looked over a few Japanese car sites and it appears that their Supra prices are now on a par or even a little ahead of UK prices with TT6's now pushing the US$30k ticket price. Looking at the UK importers no Supras for sale, lots of GTR's and evo's but not a Supra to be found which would seem to back up there is no money in importing Supras into the UK at the moment; cars offered for sale that probably don't actually exist do seem to be concentrated around High Wycombe. Market conditions would seem to be pushing towards a significant UK Supra price adjustment sometime soon, else the UK will become a location for even jspec Supra exports. Akemashite omedetô

I'd much rather do a COD or credit card purchase.

It is a good price, £40 cheaper than a DDP price I've found from the USA before discount. I'd go for a set if COD but not particularly keen on handing over £290 out of country via paypal and I expect the seller would be equally unwilling to receive payment following delivery.

I've gone with both Hegerty or LV Classics on agreed value insurance and all I have had to fill out is a mileage declaration and send 5 recent pics (valid for 5 years on renewal). I'd go £30k on the UK TT6 and £15k on the Aero. After all insurance cover is the value to replace rather than the price to sell so these would be dealer prices today.

Could be worthwhile having a good look at the condition of your a/c condenser and fins while you have the front end off seeing you are in there. Its a discontinued part from Toyota but Denso (the OE supplier) still have them available from the USA. Its a model specific part so who knows how long Denso will bother?

I'm going to assume you meant the door no longer closes or catches. In which case, you might find its a simple case that the latch rod has been turned. Check the nut holding the latch is tight and that the end of the rod is angled the right way to latch.

Maybe a mod could move this thread to the projects section sometime as its likely to be more in line with the projects undertaken in the future of rebuilds and refurbishments and Marks efforts give us all something to aim for.

You should have saved all this for the practical classic stand you are running next year! I suppose what's better than owning one nice Supra, its got to be two. Think there are a few of you around with two or more Supras. Instead of being the 1:2000 that's got to make you the 1:1000.

PS - to get the discount you need to enter the code into the where did you hear from us box on the checkout - nothing else, nowhere else.

Might be of use to someone, Rock Auto 5% discount code - only good to the 28th. C2DB1D85BB9618

I'd take it up with these guys that have 2,000 Supras of the post 93 era listed as taxed or SORN in the UK.

There used to be over 100 Supras listed on eBay alone for a good period of time with another 50 on PH taking out duplicate listings. That was back then, I can't recall when then ended exactly but a good selection on TT autos and manuals was always available. When I bought my Supra almost 20 years ago, pre-then, it was the 6th TT6 I went to see over just a few days using Autotrader as the online mag of choice (PH wasn't even a website back in 1998) and I stuck to just the West Midlands; within 40 miles of home. There were probably fewer mkiv Supras in the UK then than there is today with all the jspec imports over the years. Without new owners I do wonder about the viability of this forum in its present format though with the involvement of the modders and racers that made this forum a modders paradise in years gone by having now largely ended as they have sold up and moved onto other metal.

With over 2,000 mkiv's in the UK (probably >80% jspec) you'd normally expect to see 150 to 200 cars advertised for sale. Its probably more like 15 to 20 at the moment. I read today there is a similar lack of availability issue (for buyers) in the USA with very few coming up for sale and buyers frustrated at the inverse quality to price ratio of those that do. Seems people are buying the cars to park up or own a car that is largely parked up. A sure sign that the mkiv Supra is now firmly an investor car which does leave me wondering why prospective owners are keen to modify a car that has run for circa 20 years as an unmodified car, equivalent to a whole period age in car evolution terms. when there are many much newer cars with off the shelf stage upgrades available. There are few project threads starting these days, maybe the projects that do will evolve from the bolt a turbo on to become more about car rebuilds and refurbishment threads over the coming years? Or maybe the forum will continue its decline in activity to become essentially a historical archive for a car no one either dares or cares to drive anymore? Or maybe the new MkV will renew interest and all we be needed here is a name change. Different times often call for a change in emphasis or direction.

For info, pre facelift and facelift coil packs are different

There was once when I turned up at a Casino in Niagara Falls with C$40, transferred that into plastic chips and walked away from the blackjack table under 30 minutes later with almost C$600 in C$, it was more but I walked away when the cards turned. Even Bitcoin which is a gamble cannot match that return. The interesting facts are the technology employed but beyond that its a punt on nothing tangible, not even plastic chips. There has been reported interesting developments in Bitcoin investment over the last two month with a speculated surge in credit funded purchases. If I was a Bitcoin investor, that'd scare the hell out of me.

I rather like my network over mains as the only other option to jump buildings was a wifi bridge. Its a lot easier to set up a mains adapter network than it would be to fit masts, filters and bridges. In one building though, I'd certainly stick with wired Ethernet or wifi across the network if that is possible. Never liked range extenders though as I found they could drop out of reception and then needed rebooting which always meant physically attending the extender to power off and then back on.

I run a hard wired and a DLAN network for the home and business (same site but two entirely separate buildings). I get pretty much the same speed at the filter, at the router, at the Ethernet and at the DLAN (wireless or wired). There is no more than 2Mb difference on a 20Mb filter delivery. So if you are seeing a large drop then I recon you have issues with your filter or you have an overloaded network with several bandwidth hungry applications or your adapters are poorly located. If you access the router (BT Hub) menu you will be able to see the number of devices connected and there should be a menu option to see how much data each connection is pulling in (a historical total since last reset). You may not be able to easily identify the item as you may be presented with a MAC address list but it will give you an idea what is happening across the network and if you have something hogging the network and bandwidth. With the DLAN part of my network I find that the location of the plugs has a serious impact on speeds obtained, I have sockets in the building with virtually no connectivity and others with excellent connectivity. I used the Devolo plugs and their monitoring cockpit software. With the software you can see the data speed available from each socket location you try. Also, you do need to plug the DLAN adapter plugs directly into the socket, never into an extension or multiple outlet plug. Because the socket choice can have such a major impact on data speeds available I only use the wireless adapters. Then if its a good location and my PC happens to be nearby, of kodi box, or TV or whatever then I can connect it by a cable. If its not nearby then I used the wifi to connect. Adapter location is very sensitive so if you don't have monitoring software to see the connected data speed that the location yields then you will be working very much in the dark.