rider

I'd much rather do a COD or credit card purchase.

It is a good price, £40 cheaper than a DDP price I've found from the USA before discount. I'd go for a set if COD but not particularly keen on handing over £290 out of country via paypal and I expect the seller would be equally unwilling to receive payment following delivery.

I've gone with both Hegerty or LV Classics on agreed value insurance and all I have had to fill out is a mileage declaration and send 5 recent pics (valid for 5 years on renewal). I'd go £30k on the UK TT6 and £15k on the Aero. After all insurance cover is the value to replace rather than the price to sell so these would be dealer prices today.

Could be worthwhile having a good look at the condition of your a/c condenser and fins while you have the front end off seeing you are in there. Its a discontinued part from Toyota but Denso (the OE supplier) still have them available from the USA. Its a model specific part so who knows how long Denso will bother?

I'm going to assume you meant the door no longer closes or catches. In which case, you might find its a simple case that the latch rod has been turned. Check the nut holding the latch is tight and that the end of the rod is angled the right way to latch.

Maybe a mod could move this thread to the projects section sometime as its likely to be more in line with the projects undertaken in the future of rebuilds and refurbishments and Marks efforts give us all something to aim for.

You should have saved all this for the practical classic stand you are running next year! I suppose what's better than owning one nice Supra, its got to be two. Think there are a few of you around with two or more Supras. Instead of being the 1:2000 that's got to make you the 1:1000.

PS - to get the discount you need to enter the code into the where did you hear from us box on the checkout - nothing else, nowhere else.

Might be of use to someone, Rock Auto 5% discount code - only good to the 28th. C2DB1D85BB9618

I'd take it up with these guys that have 2,000 Supras of the post 93 era listed as taxed or SORN in the UK.

There used to be over 100 Supras listed on eBay alone for a good period of time with another 50 on PH taking out duplicate listings. That was back then, I can't recall when then ended exactly but a good selection on TT autos and manuals was always available. When I bought my Supra almost 20 years ago, pre-then, it was the 6th TT6 I went to see over just a few days using Autotrader as the online mag of choice (PH wasn't even a website back in 1998) and I stuck to just the West Midlands; within 40 miles of home. There were probably fewer mkiv Supras in the UK then than there is today with all the jspec imports over the years. Without new owners I do wonder about the viability of this forum in its present format though with the involvement of the modders and racers that made this forum a modders paradise in years gone by having now largely ended as they have sold up and moved onto other metal.

With over 2,000 mkiv's in the UK (probably >80% jspec) you'd normally expect to see 150 to 200 cars advertised for sale. Its probably more like 15 to 20 at the moment. I read today there is a similar lack of availability issue (for buyers) in the USA with very few coming up for sale and buyers frustrated at the inverse quality to price ratio of those that do. Seems people are buying the cars to park up or own a car that is largely parked up. A sure sign that the mkiv Supra is now firmly an investor car which does leave me wondering why prospective owners are keen to modify a car that has run for circa 20 years as an unmodified car, equivalent to a whole period age in car evolution terms. when there are many much newer cars with off the shelf stage upgrades available. There are few project threads starting these days, maybe the projects that do will evolve from the bolt a turbo on to become more about car rebuilds and refurbishment threads over the coming years? Or maybe the forum will continue its decline in activity to become essentially a historical archive for a car no one either dares or cares to drive anymore? Or maybe the new MkV will renew interest and all we be needed here is a name change. Different times often call for a change in emphasis or direction.

For info, pre facelift and facelift coil packs are different

There was once when I turned up at a Casino in Niagara Falls with C$40, transferred that into plastic chips and walked away from the blackjack table under 30 minutes later with almost C$600 in C$, it was more but I walked away when the cards turned. Even Bitcoin which is a gamble cannot match that return. The interesting facts are the technology employed but beyond that its a punt on nothing tangible, not even plastic chips. There has been reported interesting developments in Bitcoin investment over the last two month with a speculated surge in credit funded purchases. If I was a Bitcoin investor, that'd scare the hell out of me.

I rather like my network over mains as the only other option to jump buildings was a wifi bridge. Its a lot easier to set up a mains adapter network than it would be to fit masts, filters and bridges. In one building though, I'd certainly stick with wired Ethernet or wifi across the network if that is possible. Never liked range extenders though as I found they could drop out of reception and then needed rebooting which always meant physically attending the extender to power off and then back on.

I run a hard wired and a DLAN network for the home and business (same site but two entirely separate buildings). I get pretty much the same speed at the filter, at the router, at the Ethernet and at the DLAN (wireless or wired). There is no more than 2Mb difference on a 20Mb filter delivery. So if you are seeing a large drop then I recon you have issues with your filter or you have an overloaded network with several bandwidth hungry applications or your adapters are poorly located. If you access the router (BT Hub) menu you will be able to see the number of devices connected and there should be a menu option to see how much data each connection is pulling in (a historical total since last reset). You may not be able to easily identify the item as you may be presented with a MAC address list but it will give you an idea what is happening across the network and if you have something hogging the network and bandwidth. With the DLAN part of my network I find that the location of the plugs has a serious impact on speeds obtained, I have sockets in the building with virtually no connectivity and others with excellent connectivity. I used the Devolo plugs and their monitoring cockpit software. With the software you can see the data speed available from each socket location you try. Also, you do need to plug the DLAN adapter plugs directly into the socket, never into an extension or multiple outlet plug. Because the socket choice can have such a major impact on data speeds available I only use the wireless adapters. Then if its a good location and my PC happens to be nearby, of kodi box, or TV or whatever then I can connect it by a cable. If its not nearby then I used the wifi to connect. Adapter location is very sensitive so if you don't have monitoring software to see the connected data speed that the location yields then you will be working very much in the dark.

I tend to run around with the a/c on permanently seeing its really useful for keeping all the glass clear of condensation in cold weather and of course the car cool on the occasional hot day. If the a/c isn't working I'd at least want to know why it isn't working as components are not cheap and replacing the condenser or evaporator is not a small task. A holed condenser cost me nearly £1k (just over half was labour and regas, just under half was parts) to replace and that was over 10 years ago. If someone is asking top money then everything should be working, I think anyone who pitches top end and then lists a load of 'bad bits' is a dreamer. Every fault is worth a discount and then its up to you whether you live with it or fix it.

Its OK I've taken the crash bar.

I had both front dust shields replaced at the same time as the wheel bearings were changed which seemed a sensible thing to do. Not cut and botched but old for new.

I read this morning that the new Wheeler dealer series, the first without Ed, is due to air from the beginning of January on the Discovery Channel with Brewer now teamed alongside Ant Anstead. This was news to me as I've already watched the series on the dodgy box and its much better than I expected it'd be. Ant is a decent Ed replacement. Its set entirely in the USofA which does take it definitely into a Yankee show as compared to recent series that were split with lowering UK time relative to USA time, now the UK is history. There is one episode on the old Celica Supra and one on a Brit classic of a Healey 3000, a car I would dearly love to own, with the rest being some of Detroit's not so finest. Overall they have pulled off the Ed free series well, pity it is now very much an American car show with a couple of limeys doing the commentary. I suspect we will never see anything again that wasn't well received into the US market.

I'd personally go for the proven reliable modified setup because these cars aren't cheap to fix but are cheap to run entirely because of their reliability. It'd be useful to see a recent dyno on the car to make sure its moving and picking up strongly in the real world on the road rev range.

Not for the shy or retiring types but would need to have a deep love of plastic. £23k.

There is one thing to be said for a 14 year old modded car, clearly it was done right as it has proved reliable over a good time period. The issue for modders is do you chase the latest and greatest mods and if you do you probably need to set aside good sums of cash for a refresh every five to ten years. £26k is about right 14 years ago if the car is 16 or 17 years old, so a late facelift model. I paid £20k for my car back in 1998 (non modded) when it was 2 years old. £26k then would be around £40k now so a fair chunk of change. I'd much rather buyers who want a modded car buy a modded car and tweak it rather than take out another stock car. £26k though is strong money for a modded Supra so it is a figure likely to persuade many to part with their cars and maybe you should look at least one other if only for a comparison before taking the plunge.

Cant locate a write up for the removal of the front sub frame and assembly. Does anyone have any pointers, particularly regarding any requirement to support the engine and transmission on jacks during the swap over and what to do with the steering rack during the process. Should that be taken off with the frame and hubs or uncoupled and left with the car?

Qualified has to be where people have been impressed with the results in terms of job done and price charged.