rider

Its an easy mistake to make, like any 50:50 choice. But, it is common to have a larger front disc. I had a hub oil seal fitted the wrong way around on one car, that was a 50:50. I had another car where the crank seal was fitted the wrong way around, another 50:50. It looks like some mechanics probably just toss a coin.

Amayama and US Toyota sites are showing them as discontinued so I'd be shocked if your dealer tracks any down. You can still get the induction hoses but the vac lines look like they are all gone.

The clips should hold the pads fairly square on to the calliper and tight with channels only to move in and out as the piston is applied and released. So if yours are slapping around then you have the wrong or badly fitting pads.

This video may come in useful for forming custom rubber tubing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFDlGPLcK0o&ab_channel=TheGarageHub

Most people use it as a USB charge point. You can either get plug in USB adaptors or replace the lighter socket for a USB one, You can even get USB ports with a voltage readout if the excites you.

I've had my car for almost 25 years now and I've decided, only in the last 2 years, that I'm just going to give it away one day rather than sell it. Sorry Keron, to qualify you have to be a direct in line family member.

£450 scrap - that's a good deal. I'd take that all day long. To sell, maybe a picture or two would be a good idea as the heat shields do tend to rust. Also, worth mentioning if they are pre-facelift or facelift as they are different.

The choice of additives in fuel comes down to what you are hoping to achieve, which fuel and how old your car is. Pre-2007 it is not recommended to put any sulphur containing additives in as this can negatively impact your cat(s) and oxygen sensor(s). Not sure where the 2007 comes in seeing cats were around long before then. The other thing on fuels is that there are advantages to adding additives to petrol to stabilise the ethanol which will become more of an issue as the E numbers will only get bigger over time. That is not an issue in diesel vehicles but gas recirculation causes a lot more oiling fouling of the intake and a good solvent additives can help keep this moving rather than setting down as hard gunk deposits. If you have an old car then there are a ton of videos on the likes of SeaFoam and Marvel Mystery oil, for more modern engines there are recommendations for Gumout which does contain additives similar to Shell premium fuels but in higher concentrations and is cat plus sensor safe. I've used additives in fuels over the years that gave me an extra 2 years on an Audi turbo that had a sticking actuator that would over boost and put the car into limp mode and I also stick a splash in the tank of the cars that I lay up for months at a time to stop the ethanol separation that in a steel tank will cause corrosion and sludge. You could have a whole day of fun watching thousands of fuel and oil additive test and comparison videos on YouTube.

Finally got to putting some batteries into the ESR meter and taking the back of the casing. It's micro electronics 90's style in all its glory. A sea of solder points that is so dense its impossible for my eyes to work out which ones belong to the capacitors. It needs a younger pair of eyes to work on this. I did scan the circuit board with high magnification on my phone to look for any sign of line degradation or overheating on components. There are a few lines that look brown in contrast to the 'normal' ones that look light green with the film covering. The brown lines run in between components so there may have been some circuitry overheating but the lines still look intact. As in, none had any clear and obvious breaks. All the components from the mini resistors, to large block resistors to capacitors and chips all look good and the solder looks fine. An uncommon failure in capacitors is when a leg breaks. Without the ability to identify which joints belong to the capacitors, especially the smaller capacitors, that is impossible to rule in or out as the ECU issue. It really does need a good set of eyes working on it and I've not had perfect vision for 15years now. I tried, but my body says no. Here are a couple of useful 90's Lexus ECU repair videos I found for reference:

Was a time when people would jump all over this type of ad with cries of trader, trader, trader. Fortunately, those types seem to have moved on. Nice to see another repro part and a suggestion to any mods still here is it would be a good idea, in my opinion, to start a new section dedicated to repro parts and their project owners.

It could really shine a light on further explaining the missing bit as there are a lot of older owners these days, me included, who just don't use the car like they used to and need reminding why it isn't always a good idea to sell a Supra.

Something you may want to ask the painters to provide, if they are blending the paint themselves is for a rattle can or two or a tin of the base paint so you have a perfect match for the future if needed. I assume it'll be 2 pack paint so if canned, then the more cans the better seeing they have to be used once used; before the paint hardens. I've done a bit of spraying myself and find 2 pack harder to match than solvent paints so for the sake of a few £ extra it could be a good investment for the future. If its a water based paint then that's a lot easier to store and work with.

58328-14010

These have been discontinued for over 6 years. Its probably not the kind of part people would store for the sake of with it being quite large so you probably would be best placing a dibs with the scrappers on this one for when a fresh write off turns up.

6 Speed (V160) / (V161) First.........3.827 / 3.724 Second....2.360 / 2.246 Third.......1.685 / 1.541 Fourth.....1.312 / 1.205 Fifth.........1.000 / 1.000 Sixth........0.793 / 0.818 Reverse...3.280 / 3.192 From the NZ bible to all things Supra

It's a very interesting topic, human behaviour traits. I always felt that a lot comes down to common sense. I quickly worked out in a workplace that assholes weren't really assholes but there were plenty of unmotivated or right people in the wrong job situations. My without compare greatest pride in managerial achievement, way beyond driving the bottom line, was to point and mentor people in the right direction which often entailed a change of direction, to suit their personality. Talking to an individual you'd work out that they weren't really a sales person but would be ideal and flourish in QC. Or on one occasion redirecting and mentoring a junior techie into logistics and seeing them thrive and develop into a senior management role. There is a very productive saying that no idea is a bad idea. A statement of apparent fact backed by a study run at Berkeley University in 2003, specifically around creativity and how perceived conflict (sub perceived criticism) within a group really if harnessed does stimulate creativity and deliver much improved results.

It's lovely but. Often creative types can be emotional types which is fine, it comes with the territory. Sometimes suggestions are merely that and being merely that they can be discarded, embodied or even built upon. To jump to the "your criticising" option out the box is also fine in these woke feelings first and foremost times. It really is a whatever. Suggestions are only an aid to creativity. Look at some other truly iconic cars and what associated memorabilia will usually feature. On a vintage Mustang you can utilise a Ford logo or a running pony. For the Jag e-type would you feature the car or use a BL logo? With the Corolla, you can obviously just go for the Bull Horns.

Life moves on, trends change. Aspiration to. Is the ownership even the same as it was 10 years ago? You certainly didn't have a regular $100k Supra's ten years ago, few today could contemplate buying into that. If the brief is to pay homage to continuity then carrying forward an historical theme is perfect, reflecting a natural ageing progression. Even though the Toyota Supra Mk4 has evolved into the motoring icon that it is today largely over the last 10 years. Time could be ripe to embrace that, for something confident and bold. There aren't many cars that a true motoring icons and we are mostly fortunate to actually own a car that is, today, one of those very rare true motoring icons. If the Supra in its metal form was art, it has become a timelessly beauty. Maybe it deserves its pride of place on a badge somewhere? I never got emotionally moved myself by the Toyota bull horns, that was never the reason why I bought my Supra in the 90's

Are you going to tabulate the cost of all this at the end in time, parts and labour? I did with my underside refurb so it'd only be fair. Always useful for the historical record on the site, though you probably would need a comfy seat and stiff drink by your side writing that part up.

I have a spare JDM indicator/wiper stalk. You can bring your car over and test it out but no idea where you are at so that is probably impractical. Others may be happy to send you one to test out but this part lists for £350 these days so I couldn't bring myself to do that for someone that I don't know. The front wiper motor isn't cheap either, last recycled one I saw was listed at comfortably over £100. Used to be cheap as chips scrapper parts but then most things off a Supra were 10 years ago. Have you hot wired 12V to the motor to test if it runs?

There is a properly rusted bare tailgate on fleabay for £350. Scrap price would probably be £2.

With these Koyo condensers my understanding having looked into them myself is that you need to recycle the original mounting brackets. Do you have a feel/experience for how easy that is and in what condition those are likely to be in after a time period of up to 30 years? It does makes me wonder what my boxed OE condenser with the correct mounts is worth these days, Toyota used to charge £650 for a part that Denso retailed at US$65 so I guess it has to be at least £1,000 now.

I'm pretty sure it was the second cat that is different pre facelift to facelift, the pre has the honeycomb whereas the post has a void.

I have a spare 1st and 2nd pre-facelift cats (actually the originals to my car) and I'm sure other parts hoarders do to so they are about. After a few decades, they may well be a bit rusted on the heat shields but those could be replaced with new aluminium sheet metal.

If you are sleeving round aluminium caps onto various nuts and bolts you should probably apply a generous amount of aluminium anti-seize grease to the bolt or nut which will help prevent the cap corroding onto the nut or bolt or thread.