rider

After 20 years it'd be a good time to visit all the front to rear fuel and brake lines to check their condition. Also worth popping the tank cover in the boot area to see if you have a soil build up on top of the tank which will take down the breather pipe over time. Probably while underneath push a USB camera inside your tank guard to see how much road debris is in there and if there is any rust (these tend to go from the inside). Check the integrity of the rear wheel housing protective coating, any lifting even minuscule lifting could spell bad news for water trapped under the protective coating. If all is good I'd recommend a sealant application between the wheel arch and the protective coating. I applied Abro undercoating spray over this area which is a very fast way of covering this exposed area. Also its easy to remove the rear diff air vents and rear hockey sticks to do a quick visual to make sure there is no corrosion going on in that area. Check your rear anti-roll bar. They do suffer a conical wear pattern under the bush. The bush is split so if you loosen the mount bracket then you should be able to look inside. The bars are hollow so the wear can and does lead to bars snapping. Have a look at the condition of your rear sub frame, if its rusting chances are its rusting on the top to, where you have no access without dropping the sub frame. If its rusting then you should be thinking about dropping the frame and giving everything a good going over to ensure it'll still be good in 25 years time. If you drop the frame then you would want to think about new arms and bushes while you can still get them from Mr T, but then you are into many more £ thousands of expense. You can take a look see as far as you or your pocket wants to go, but for 25 years further endurance I'd focus more on the bodywork than steel versus ceramic turbos.

You can't buy them new so its going to be fix or bite the bullet. Suggest you follow the other thread on repairing the controller failed internals that is running at the moment or £230 doesn't sound that bad compared to the alternative of no climate control but then £230 would buy a circuit tester, soldering iron, solder and lots of resistors plus transistors.

I'm left wonder if this guy is for real. If its a genuine TT6 imported in the last 6 months and then just converted to a single why sell? Begs the question why take out a TT6 with a single 'upgrade' and sell it for sub TT6 price? Red Supra, one confused owner.

In MGB values the MK1 pull handle models are the most valued because they are the rarest of MGBs and have neat design pointers like the multi metal spoke steering wheels and all metal dash. Then its the early mark 2's and my car is an early mark 2, chiefly because they had crank engineering upgrades with five rather than three bearing engines making the B series engine more durable. Then the least valued model of roadster is the post 1974 rubber bumper MGB's. I have never heard 1972 mentioned as a peculiarly or particularly desirable year in MGB terms. Most marque enthusiasts recon 1967 was the vintage year for MGB GTs and roadsters.

At 6' wide (72 inches) you will need to do a tailgate entry and exit. Length 177.701 in | 4513.6 mm. Width 71.301 in | 1811 mm. If you are looking for long term storage you don't need to stick to garages. Lots of people have space they will take a car in for storage. I had a Brooklands Capri in my barn for 6 months that ended up being here for 17 years. Even covered it up. Had cats in the barn that ensured no mouse invasion. I even used to start it up regularly and move it back and forward regularly. So, when it finally went it could be driven onto the trailer. Probably someone here knows someone who could store it for you and look after it to a degree as well for a bit of beer money, I was charging £40 a month paid by direct debit. Its a 0.4 acre barn so plenty of room to open up the doors as well.

I own a stunning 1970 MGB Roadster and have it insured for a healthy £12k. The price seems steep as that level is into heritage shell territory with new nuts. It could be justifiable if it has genuine verifiable mileage with every MOT certificate from 1975 and a service book from 1972. Otherwise, mileage is just a number.

Maybe not a great choice as they told me less than a year ago no Supra in the UK was worth more than £12k. Lots of other insurers that hit the top of the customer satisfactions list that will take photos and comparable car sales ads as proof of value, which AF will not.

Even a car in storage should be attended to periodically to move it forward and back to prevent tyre flat spots, keep the brakes free and keep the bearings greased to reduce corrosion, I'd want to have new oils in the engine and transmission and spin the engine every month at most to maintain an oil film which will protect against corrosion and wear on future start up. Aside from that it'd be best to drain the fuel as it goes stale and only presents a fire hazard in long term storage situations. I'd put water less coolant into the car. Over inflated tyres to prevent flat spots forming is another easy preventative measure. I'd put the battery on a trickle charger otherwise it'll be throw away at the end of a long storage period and I'd disconnect the battery terminals. Storage in an air conditioned or dehumidified box or building would be preferable as the humidity is then controlled (below 50%, corrosion doesn't happen). A supply of rat poison and mouse traps so rodents aren't able to set up home in the car or nibble the wires. Air re-circulation would be beneficial if you don't have access to air conditioning or a dehumidifier and counter productive if you do. Worth noting that dehumidifiers do generally need attending to regularly to disposed of water collected in a tank unless they are modified to simply drain. Long term storage, one of the worst things you can ever do to a car. Stuck relays, seized on brakes that were left off, a car that wont start for a myriad of reasons, knackered tyres, knackered battery are all things that can befall a stored car and then there is all that extra rust that's had a good while to get on with doing what unattended what rust does. If your storage cycles hot and cold throughout the day in up to 90% humidity then there will condensation feeding any rust. I've seen it all with cars I've stored before I built a pretty much sealed dehumidified garage.

These units were Toyota option on cars and MPV's of the era. There is even a thread on this site from way back where the OP had no joy converting to a UK satnav or watching TV presumably because its a NTSC setup rather than PAL system and being Japanese you'd only get a couple of MW stations unless tied to a wave band expander. Its probably only of use if the car that it was fitted to ever heads back to Asia. http://www.townace.plus.com/ia/ia002447.htm http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/archive/index.php/t-9777.html

I tried to find a diagram for the control panel and could only track one down for the MkIII from a service manual. Did you have one for the Mkiv controller? I recon the transistor is a PNP Toshiba product. Equivalent code 2SC2235 which comes in about £1.50 a unit or lots for £10. Along with a 10 ohm resistor could be a cheap fix and you can become the new Heckler for air control panel fixes, you'd just need to add in LED upgrades.

If its your own property and there is nothing in the deeds (or planning consent) to state you specifically cannot do something you are doing then I'd recommend you test the horns on the vehicles as frequently as possible and generally make as much noise as possible. Reads very similar to my setup and if someone said to me I shouldn't store cars in my own barn or work on them in my own barn they would soon be sent packing. Why are your neighbours snooping on and around your property anyway? Best invest in some private property do not trespass and beware of the guard dog enter at own risk signs.

He emigrated with the job last year, air force I think? Anyway said his goodbye last year.

For seals around the headlights, assuming you mean they are misting and need resealing, then this is what you need. It softens with heat, like the OE seal that is made from the same material.

I've also used USA suppliers and these guys have always come through, or Rock Auto. They do both ship US Mail though which does incur Royal Mail handling charges and delays this side (similar to Amayama orders) so never used for cheap or bulky parts. With the USA Toyota dealers, you can only go with generic model parts though as they cannot handle left hand drive specific parts. On the UK guys, I find Steve is less interested in small value orders than Paul so now push most orders through TCB even if they aren't the cheapest. Another UK option is Burrows Toyota who will give 10% discount (similar to Inchcape Toyota) if you ask. Burrows have an eBay shop which often comes up with useful parts at discounted prices, I just bought a new crash bar from them via eBay for £169 delivered. No one else could match that price which is surprising when you think of the eBay commission on the sale.

Never used them but they say they repair climate control units so may be worth a call and a trawl for online reviews.

I seem to recall the Supra wheels are over £1k from Mr T. There is silly and silly.

Have you measured to make sure the cable length is the same on both sides? There was a difference in the sensor on my hubs to those fitted in the facelift hubs that came on the loaded frame I used for the frame swap. The sensor on my car were flat with two silver metal strips visible. The ones on the swap frame had a raised button at the tip and no sign of any parallel silver metal strips. Is the ABS sensor ring the same pre 97 to post 97? I never bothered checking as I retained the original hubs with the original ABS sensors but i'd be interested to have it confirmed that I can remove and hold the post 97 facelift sensors as spares for my pre-97 car.

Have you looked into getting your original unit repaired? There are a few companies, in the UK anyway, that specialise in auto electronic component diagnostics and repair. The part is discontinued (55900-14540) so outside of a breaker people are probably going to be reluctant to part with their prized spare except at a 'good' price. There used to be a few for sale on eBay at up to half the new price until the last 12 months, now there are none. I think we all need to face up to the harsh reality that owning a Supra will become increasingly a fix or make do.

As said they are so cheap so buy a new setup

I don't recall my mkIII being anything like my mkiv in the cabin.

Best seek out a breaker and buy a hub with the ABS sensor fitted. There are some members holding spares but they are holding spares for their own cars so that'd likely need a strong money incentive to make them part their ways.

I was thinking along the lines of cars that were really expensive once but that have become so affordable, a bit like Supras were 10 years ago. Here is another that I think I shouldn't look at for too long, even though I'm not a BMW fan.