rider

Long discontinued part. Unless you can get the pair off a breaker you'd probably be better looking at other options from other cars. I'd be contacting this eBay seller for the dimensions on the bush mount to see if it'd fit a Supra bush. Alternatively any local metal bashing shop could easily knock out something similar that would do the bar bush support job perfectly adequately.

I just bought a second spare set for £250, eBay ads are more like £250 each, not sure they actually sell though at that price. About a year ago, you could have got a set for £100. The pricing is for good condition; faded, corroded or peeled will have an affect.

Fitted the Osram Night Breakers this afternoon, replacing the HID units. Filed down the tabs so the bulb would seat in the headlight unit then wondered why the loom connector wouldn't seat. Forgot about the two ribs inside the bulb connector needed removing, so some more filing later and they are in. Had one side on the original 'J' halogen and one on the 9005 Night Breaker and from the garage wall there does look a big difference in colour (yellow to white) and much higher intensity on the new bulb. Should have take a picture but I didn't so people will just have to take my word that its not quite up to HID levels but close enough to not worry about MOT man.

http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/fn/exterior/aerocatch-120-plus-flush-series-bonnet-hood-pins-catches-above.html

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/22176-bonnet-pins/

You probably need to move on a rear anti-roll bar sooner rather than later if you want an OEM or TRD as they are both out of manufacture. There are still a few TRD bars working though the supply chain in the USA but I couldn't track down a new OEM rear bar anywhere. I did manage to get an as new second hand bar but at a price, which was the same as a new one used to cost. The OEM bushes were a struggle to track down to. Hopefully you have the roll bar bush support brackets still on the frame as they are discontinued as well. The only other options are the adjustable 'racing' bars and brackets.

SGS Engineering do a strut replacement for around £60 but they require the old struts to transplant the fixings onto the new struts. Novak should have the 'club' spare set that is probably available to have a pair refurbed ready to swap over. Thats preferable as the tailgate is heavy and changing one strut at a time is just easier. If you send him a PM he should be able to help you out.

Coincidentally, I purchased the duo HB3 9005 Osram Nightbreakers this afternoon just in case I find its too much trouble to swap and then swap back. I've come around to thinking I will probably just fit the Osram bulbs and leave them seeing the car rarely comes out these days and its even rarer for it to come out after dark.

I, as will many others, have changed the headlights over to HID bulbs for several years now and they were a big improvement in visibility. The new MOT regulations that will fail aftermarket HID conversions come into effect from May 20 this year. What a people planning on doing, refitting the halogens just for the MOT or reverting to halogens full stop or do nothing and see if it gets picked up? I think I'll probably go for the refitting halogens just for the MOT. Be interesting to see how this one goes, if its turns out to be a new regulation that testers will adopt with zeal or turn a sympathetic blind eye to.

Be worth taking a spare adjuster bolt and nut with you as they have half threads and are set to a high torque, I managed to strip one just as it reached the torque setting.

If you loosen with the road wheels sat on the ground, good luck with tightening up again as the ground clearance to the lower arms is what - 20cm? You really need to do it on a 4 poster or over a pit, which is why I used a hydraulic table to raise the hubs as I don't have either of those. I can't see any difference in a hub raised on a platform to one with the weight of the car bearing down if its at the same level when the bolts are tightened. If you loosen off the adjusters then yes, you'll need to get the alignment checked so if it needs doing then take it to an alignment shop who can loosen, set and tighten all in one go.

Not much power progress in 25 years, Clarkson wont like it.

I can't get beyond its a BMW wearing stockings rather than socks.

Its down as an auto conversion in your newbie thread which will impact value as will the model of gearbox used and quality of any work modifying the transmission tunnel. Paint blistering isn't good as its indicative of a bad reaction arising from a poor or contaminated paint job. If its restricted only to a bumper though, its not the end of the world if people like the non standard bumper; otherwise they would probably prefer to replace it with a stock bumper and that plus paint isn't cheap. Its harder to guess at the value on rekitted and modified cars unless you can see how well the mods have been done and how far they go. Was it an original TT or has the engine been changed as well as the transmission. If they were changed, how about the prop and diff? It can kind of snowball.

So long as the arms were raised to the ride level prior to tightening then the bush will be set to the optimal position. I raised the hubs on a hydraulic table up to the ride level so it doesn't have to be on the ground to get it raised ready to tighten. Your mechanic says he raised the arms prior to tightening so you have nothing to worry about. I'd maybe just double check when he said he marked the position is he definitely referring to the arm ride level and not the adjustment cam position for the alignment?

Have you tried contacting Chris Wilson, send him an email - there is a link on his profile.

You can buy these new from US suppliers for around US$50 a side, probably be £100 each here.

You can also test if it's mechanical fault in transmission or electrical fault in transmission control circuit with this test (copy&paste from service manual): DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK 1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. 2. Push in the O/D main switch to ON. HINT: Warning and diagnostic trouble codes can be read only when the O/D main switch is ON. If it is OFF, the O/D OFF indicator light up will light continuously and will not blink. 3.Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC 1 or DLC2. 4. Read the diagnostic trouble code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF indicator light blinks. If the system is operating normally, the light will blink 2 times per second. MANUAL SHIFTING TEST HINT: With this test, it can be determined whether the trouble is within the electrical circuit or is a mechanical problem in the transmission. 1. DISCONNECT SOLENOID WIRE FROM TRANSMISSION 2. INSPECT MANUAL DRIVING OPERATION Check that the shift and gear positions correspond with the table below. Shifter position Gear position D O/D 2 3rd L 1st R Reverse P Pawl lock HINT: If the L, 2 and D position gear positions are difficult to distinguish, do the following road test. • While driving, shift through the L, 2 and D positions. Check that the gear change corresponds to the shift position. If any abnormality is found in the above test, the problem is in the transmission itself. 3. CONNECT SOLENOID WIRE 4. CANCEL OUT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Diagnostics courtesy of Tuoppi

The stock bumper is designed for air flow to a SMIC so if you have a stock bumper you'd likely feel no benefit from a FMIC and probably have to make ducting mods to fit it. The GW SMIC is larger than stock and uses the same mounts, an easy upgrade and good for a lot more HP than you are looking at.

I'm certain a lot of peoples cars are a lot rustier than they think they are as Supras always hide rust very well from their outward body appearance. It's always good to see a car being saved and I'd recommend doing the sub frames, the bushes and suspension arms while you can still get hold of the parts. I did mine at the back end of last year and some of the arms and bushes were difficult to track down via several sources but I got there in the end. Its not cheap, would probably add around the £10k mark to your rebuild cost if you have the frames renewed or refurbed along with all new parts, bolts and nuts but at least with the rear frame off you could also tackle any rust developing above that as well. You'd then be then looking at one of the very best UK Supras out there.

Total side ways question but what kind of MPG would a car requiring and running 1000cc injectors return compared to the stock j 440cc setup?

If its a good running car with the usual 'low mileage' benefits then its a good buy at £18k. You could even factor in £2k for stock body parts plus paint and then it'd be worth more like £25k if the mileage is genuine and the running/bodywork condition spot on. Another way to think of it is, you aren't going to get one in this claimed condition and with the claimed mileage any cheaper.

White TT6 come up on eBay today, located South of Manchester, £18k classified. If you really want a TT6 you should overnight run up there before it goes as TT6's don't tend to hang around.

I have a n/s rear complete hub with ABS and all the old arms (the arms are in poor condition on the ball joints) spare but it'd take a price I couldn't resist to part me from it. If you want to pitch for a hub which includes the backing plate, knuckle and ABS sensor then PM me an offer. If is acceptable then I'll go run a resistance test on the sensor and if thats fine strip the arms off the hub ready for stripping. I'm not interesting in trying to extract the sensor from the hub as that could ruin a perfectly good sensor.

Its an interesting time for crypto speculators, because thats what it is; definitely not an investment. The MSM does seem to be itching for a fall, nothing like getting to see lots of people burned to get the tabloid readers salivating. I'm certain there is still lots of scope for speculative returns but not so certain the 100 or even 10 fold increases will be achievable ever again. There were reports, albeit in the MSM, that the December rush was driven by the late comers desperate to get onboard and it was speculated, from search frequency results alone, that a great deal of the cash transferred to crytos was probably funded on credit. Thats clearly going to be unstable and these are the first to crash and burn when the value slides. So, if the MSM reports in December were indeed true then the smart money would have divested which leaves the remainder in an even more perilous state of collapse. By the end of March, we should know whether the MSM bubble predictions have indeed popped or if its just part of the speculative nature of cryptos where you will forever be up 20% on day and down that more or less then next day. I'm out with the jury on this one but enjoying being a interested voyeur on the developing situation.