rider

If you loosen with the road wheels sat on the ground, good luck with tightening up again as the ground clearance to the lower arms is what - 20cm? You really need to do it on a 4 poster or over a pit, which is why I used a hydraulic table to raise the hubs as I don't have either of those. I can't see any difference in a hub raised on a platform to one with the weight of the car bearing down if its at the same level when the bolts are tightened. If you loosen off the adjusters then yes, you'll need to get the alignment checked so if it needs doing then take it to an alignment shop who can loosen, set and tighten all in one go.

Not much power progress in 25 years, Clarkson wont like it.

I can't get beyond its a BMW wearing stockings rather than socks.

Its down as an auto conversion in your newbie thread which will impact value as will the model of gearbox used and quality of any work modifying the transmission tunnel. Paint blistering isn't good as its indicative of a bad reaction arising from a poor or contaminated paint job. If its restricted only to a bumper though, its not the end of the world if people like the non standard bumper; otherwise they would probably prefer to replace it with a stock bumper and that plus paint isn't cheap. Its harder to guess at the value on rekitted and modified cars unless you can see how well the mods have been done and how far they go. Was it an original TT or has the engine been changed as well as the transmission. If they were changed, how about the prop and diff? It can kind of snowball.

So long as the arms were raised to the ride level prior to tightening then the bush will be set to the optimal position. I raised the hubs on a hydraulic table up to the ride level so it doesn't have to be on the ground to get it raised ready to tighten. Your mechanic says he raised the arms prior to tightening so you have nothing to worry about. I'd maybe just double check when he said he marked the position is he definitely referring to the arm ride level and not the adjustment cam position for the alignment?

Have you tried contacting Chris Wilson, send him an email - there is a link on his profile.

You can buy these new from US suppliers for around US$50 a side, probably be £100 each here.

You can also test if it's mechanical fault in transmission or electrical fault in transmission control circuit with this test (copy&paste from service manual): DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK 1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. 2. Push in the O/D main switch to ON. HINT: Warning and diagnostic trouble codes can be read only when the O/D main switch is ON. If it is OFF, the O/D OFF indicator light up will light continuously and will not blink. 3.Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC 1 or DLC2. 4. Read the diagnostic trouble code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF indicator light blinks. If the system is operating normally, the light will blink 2 times per second. MANUAL SHIFTING TEST HINT: With this test, it can be determined whether the trouble is within the electrical circuit or is a mechanical problem in the transmission. 1. DISCONNECT SOLENOID WIRE FROM TRANSMISSION 2. INSPECT MANUAL DRIVING OPERATION Check that the shift and gear positions correspond with the table below. Shifter position Gear position D O/D 2 3rd L 1st R Reverse P Pawl lock HINT: If the L, 2 and D position gear positions are difficult to distinguish, do the following road test. • While driving, shift through the L, 2 and D positions. Check that the gear change corresponds to the shift position. If any abnormality is found in the above test, the problem is in the transmission itself. 3. CONNECT SOLENOID WIRE 4. CANCEL OUT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Diagnostics courtesy of Tuoppi

The stock bumper is designed for air flow to a SMIC so if you have a stock bumper you'd likely feel no benefit from a FMIC and probably have to make ducting mods to fit it. The GW SMIC is larger than stock and uses the same mounts, an easy upgrade and good for a lot more HP than you are looking at.

I'm certain a lot of peoples cars are a lot rustier than they think they are as Supras always hide rust very well from their outward body appearance. It's always good to see a car being saved and I'd recommend doing the sub frames, the bushes and suspension arms while you can still get hold of the parts. I did mine at the back end of last year and some of the arms and bushes were difficult to track down via several sources but I got there in the end. Its not cheap, would probably add around the £10k mark to your rebuild cost if you have the frames renewed or refurbed along with all new parts, bolts and nuts but at least with the rear frame off you could also tackle any rust developing above that as well. You'd then be then looking at one of the very best UK Supras out there.

Total side ways question but what kind of MPG would a car requiring and running 1000cc injectors return compared to the stock j 440cc setup?

If its a good running car with the usual 'low mileage' benefits then its a good buy at £18k. You could even factor in £2k for stock body parts plus paint and then it'd be worth more like £25k if the mileage is genuine and the running/bodywork condition spot on. Another way to think of it is, you aren't going to get one in this claimed condition and with the claimed mileage any cheaper.

White TT6 come up on eBay today, located South of Manchester, £18k classified. If you really want a TT6 you should overnight run up there before it goes as TT6's don't tend to hang around.

I have a n/s rear complete hub with ABS and all the old arms (the arms are in poor condition on the ball joints) spare but it'd take a price I couldn't resist to part me from it. If you want to pitch for a hub which includes the backing plate, knuckle and ABS sensor then PM me an offer. If is acceptable then I'll go run a resistance test on the sensor and if thats fine strip the arms off the hub ready for stripping. I'm not interesting in trying to extract the sensor from the hub as that could ruin a perfectly good sensor.

Its an interesting time for crypto speculators, because thats what it is; definitely not an investment. The MSM does seem to be itching for a fall, nothing like getting to see lots of people burned to get the tabloid readers salivating. I'm certain there is still lots of scope for speculative returns but not so certain the 100 or even 10 fold increases will be achievable ever again. There were reports, albeit in the MSM, that the December rush was driven by the late comers desperate to get onboard and it was speculated, from search frequency results alone, that a great deal of the cash transferred to crytos was probably funded on credit. Thats clearly going to be unstable and these are the first to crash and burn when the value slides. So, if the MSM reports in December were indeed true then the smart money would have divested which leaves the remainder in an even more perilous state of collapse. By the end of March, we should know whether the MSM bubble predictions have indeed popped or if its just part of the speculative nature of cryptos where you will forever be up 20% on day and down that more or less then next day. I'm out with the jury on this one but enjoying being a interested voyeur on the developing situation.

There are at least two other members who have classic Mustangs. Mine is the same colour to. Hopefully you'll get to take it to some shows as I've found out of all the classics I've owned people are particularly keen to touch and talk about a mustang. If its the 289 or 302 V8, just lifting the bonnet draws a crowd. You should consider joining the Mustang owners forum, really friendly place with plenty of people very willing to help. Even witnessed people offering parts and time for free to help others out. There are also key contacts for bringing bulkier parts in from the USA cheaper there to. If you want any info on which sites are best for parts and the owners club address just PM me and I'll send you some recommended places. Enjoy it and you are in the right part of the country to meet lots of other vintage Mustang owners if thats your thing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]225197[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]225198[/ATTACH]

I'm still here . I've had messages as well. I think the club is effectively two tier, friends and family fraternity and hundreds of others. I've never descended into the lets get personal to or about anyone, just not my style. It's all too immature if I'm honest. Clique wars is a dubious way to behave on a forum as all it does is put others off when there is an excitable pack only too happy to jump all over threads and head way off topic. Not sure what a busy events organiser has to to with raising web site development and maintenance and it does seems you aren't either. Its proving to be another popular thread, so yet another topical and very valuable contribution.

I feel there is a little clique hovering. But, at least its very encouraging to find out that something is going on behind the scenes, on a need to know basis. Out of interest, what percentage of members actually attend your friends and family events, seems to be largely the same members year after year? Are you sure you are actually catering to the wider membership? I'm membership #24,421 so I'm not certain that the socials is a prime means to fully engage with the wider membership. Maybe if you were more involved with the web forum you'd see that there are certain members who jump in to help others with loaned parts, links and opinions. Often, that's way more useful to a Supra owner than a back slapping behind closed doors bevvy with your mates.

You are so far off topic I really cannot be bothered. If you can come up with some ideas on how to move the web forum along from 2012 which is when the housekeeping appears to have ended feel free to share those ideas. Two syllables at a time will be fine. Then maybe Pete as one of two regularly active mods can consider taking them to where they need to go, along with some of my own reasonably detailed strategic placement suggestions that he has. Your come across as resistance to change, lack of change will kill off a forum that is clearly in rapid decline. Maybe as a former Supra owner that's not to much of an issue for you?

When I changed out my spark plugs last week half the 'number 7' cable clamps that hold the coil loom wires to the coil pack support cradle broke their post catches due to age related brittleness. I have ordered replacement clamps and a few spares so if anyone needs the odd one then feel free to ask. They wont be with me until March 2018 though.

You should have sat back some more.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?680340-NA-Supra-Idle-Issue-Guide http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/74454-2jzge-intermittent-idle-issues-and-stalling/

Amazon has it at £149.99 from Amazon. Incl VAT, postage and fresh warranty.

I've advertised my LR Series 2A on eBay as its just not getting used as I intended to use it. Its running on an eBay auction and I have it advertised elsewhere locally for £7k classified. Great car and fantastic condition. Fuller particulars in the eBay writeup. [ATTACH=CONFIG]225113[/ATTACH] Sold 1/2/18 for £7k.

Refer attached Supra Torque & Service Specifications.pdf