rider

That's very true, didn't consider that. Though are the TRD bars actually larger than OEM or just fabricated from thicker tubing? I assumed seeing the TRD kits don't include bushes they were probably left as OEM, though that's just an assumption that may be right and it may be wrong.

TRD bars are 27% stiffer than stock sway bars, providing needed extra control in the corners. A figure isn't subjective like slightly or much.

I have new OEM diff rear mounts 41651-14010 and 41651-14020 if you have problems securing your own. If you want TRD sway bars you'd better move quick as I was told they last Autumn that they are out of production with the last few sets working their way through the US supply chain. They are the closest to OEM looking identical other than the colour; being non-adjustable but slightly stiffer. If you decide to go OEM instead then the front bar is still available from Japan but the rear one has ended production and supply. I also hold a near pristine front sub frame so if you draw a blank on that you can enquire about it, I'd need to have a thorough look over my current frame to decide if I wanted to use it myself or would be prepared to let it go. You should include the sway bar bushes while they are still available, TCB managed to get hold of those when Toyota said no.

You can really only go from the prior year NCT/MOT certificates as they cannot be viewed online, unlike UK MOT history which can be read online back to 2006. If there is no service record, with recorded mileage and dates or NCT history file then mileage, as with any old car, is just a random number and nothing more.

It has a very colourful interior.

I bought a slightly newer version of the same car once and swapped over the better condition bits from the older car before selling. It seemed a very sensible thing to do.

It looks in good shape to me. OK the arms, drive shafts and diff are rusty but they do go rusty. I'd whip the tank guard off though seeing it has stones poking out the slats, they go side to side and make the guards rust from the inside out. £23k for a TT6 is where the market is at these days and there aren't too many on offer. The rust on the arms does look to be a bit more than a brush off, angle grinding will do it.

That's a good find, I've ordered a set for myself.

I've had no issues with LV Classic (insurer), Hegerty (broker) or Lancaster (broker) where I've pitched a price and always had it accepted without any fuss.

I'll take the washer switch if it is combined with the washers which I believe you have from the UK you purchased. PM me a price on both if available.

The grapes in Kent are supposed to be particularly sweet, due to the cooler climate they don't swell as much so pack a lot of flavour and important for things like wine lots of sugar to. The grape and wine industry is supposed to be flourishing in the garden of England and there has to be worse career choices then wine making or better still how about tasting? A lot of vineyards also have hosting and catering for client tasting sessions so you'd imagine an enormous range of career opportunities exist in that sector plenty of which would require a seasonal influx of labour from Spring.

Those who get personal should probably ask themselves why they are ranting away at a LCD or Plasma screen. Individuals assuming the role of forum police and sometimes even call for bans on individuals they claim to not particularly like is nothing peculiar to this forum, it happens all the time. If the mods are content to let aggressive language run in threads then it is going to affect how a forum operates where paid up members have three choices; conform, leave or just see it for what it is.

I just had a 'B' service on my Merc C class and the dealer quote for that is £739.33. Instead I bought all the required OE oils and filters online from 5 different suppliers and placed it with an Independent and the parts cost £146 including VAT and garage labour £180 incl VAT. I thought that was about right for the job. The independent charges labour at £50/hr + VAT. But, I expect the main dealer would throw in a 'free' wash and hoover for the extra that I didn't get.

I hadn't checked this thread for a long time as it got blown so far off topic I lost the will to but I was redirected back and I have to concur it seems to have finally managed some reasoned consideration and attempts to drag it somewhat back on topic. Simple things like changing the copyright date makes a big difference to the perception the site has some love. I have already passed onto Pete (being one of the few mods that frequents the forum these days) suggestions on how the web site and FB could be combined with segregated roles. Whether that gets discussed by the decision makers or binned I wouldn't know and don't expect to find out. I've done years of personal and company website design, uploading and maintenance for two decades. My first personal sites way back when, the first was a car based site that was ranked in the top 1mn in the World; though I think there were only about 7mn websites indexed at that time. If any help is needed cleaning or maintaining the website then I'd be open to assist in that task. I have no experience with forum software but it cannot be that difficult to work out. I think it'd be really helpful for everyone if we are kept abreast of any evolution developments with site announcements as the majority of members don't attend events to have a finger on the pulse. A wider call for volunteers could be made with specific tasks or support roles in mind. Some would require an ongoing commitment and some, such as a tidy up or new topic area launch would be more term and task specific. At least it's a brilliant time for the club to think about where it's going, especially with the impending launch of the MkV. Do we stick with just the MkIV having seen whats happened to the MkIII forum; that once was busy but it died.

I'd start off with checking the resistance on the 6 coil packs, think it should be 4-6k ohms but thats from memory which fades as I get older. Next would be the fuel pump pressure if you have a means to do that to confirm there is enough fuel reaching the rail.

Long discontinued part. Unless you can get the pair off a breaker you'd probably be better looking at other options from other cars. I'd be contacting this eBay seller for the dimensions on the bush mount to see if it'd fit a Supra bush. Alternatively any local metal bashing shop could easily knock out something similar that would do the bar bush support job perfectly adequately.

I just bought a second spare set for £250, eBay ads are more like £250 each, not sure they actually sell though at that price. About a year ago, you could have got a set for £100. The pricing is for good condition; faded, corroded or peeled will have an affect.

Fitted the Osram Night Breakers this afternoon, replacing the HID units. Filed down the tabs so the bulb would seat in the headlight unit then wondered why the loom connector wouldn't seat. Forgot about the two ribs inside the bulb connector needed removing, so some more filing later and they are in. Had one side on the original 'J' halogen and one on the 9005 Night Breaker and from the garage wall there does look a big difference in colour (yellow to white) and much higher intensity on the new bulb. Should have take a picture but I didn't so people will just have to take my word that its not quite up to HID levels but close enough to not worry about MOT man.

http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/fn/exterior/aerocatch-120-plus-flush-series-bonnet-hood-pins-catches-above.html

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/22176-bonnet-pins/

You probably need to move on a rear anti-roll bar sooner rather than later if you want an OEM or TRD as they are both out of manufacture. There are still a few TRD bars working though the supply chain in the USA but I couldn't track down a new OEM rear bar anywhere. I did manage to get an as new second hand bar but at a price, which was the same as a new one used to cost. The OEM bushes were a struggle to track down to. Hopefully you have the roll bar bush support brackets still on the frame as they are discontinued as well. The only other options are the adjustable 'racing' bars and brackets.

SGS Engineering do a strut replacement for around £60 but they require the old struts to transplant the fixings onto the new struts. Novak should have the 'club' spare set that is probably available to have a pair refurbed ready to swap over. Thats preferable as the tailgate is heavy and changing one strut at a time is just easier. If you send him a PM he should be able to help you out.

Coincidentally, I purchased the duo HB3 9005 Osram Nightbreakers this afternoon just in case I find its too much trouble to swap and then swap back. I've come around to thinking I will probably just fit the Osram bulbs and leave them seeing the car rarely comes out these days and its even rarer for it to come out after dark.

I, as will many others, have changed the headlights over to HID bulbs for several years now and they were a big improvement in visibility. The new MOT regulations that will fail aftermarket HID conversions come into effect from May 20 this year. What a people planning on doing, refitting the halogens just for the MOT or reverting to halogens full stop or do nothing and see if it gets picked up? I think I'll probably go for the refitting halogens just for the MOT. Be interesting to see how this one goes, if its turns out to be a new regulation that testers will adopt with zeal or turn a sympathetic blind eye to.

Be worth taking a spare adjuster bolt and nut with you as they have half threads and are set to a high torque, I managed to strip one just as it reached the torque setting.