rider

Thanks for the comment, no sealant or grease on the seal it will be then.

I'm going to be removing my camshafts later this month and am unsure what is the best shaft seal sealant to use when they are refitted. Recommendations across forums range from Loctite 518 to standard silicone type. Anyone got anything to recommend that they have used with great success? Also, some say to pack the seals with grease to ensure the seal spring remains in place when fitting, others say don't use grease at all. Which should it be?

Seems they like to find any reason to extract administration fees starting at £55 from a series of online reviews. Its a brokerage so they are probably on low commission and admin fees will probably quadruple their take. If its not an agreed value policy you'll probably only get 1/3 of market value in a total loss situation.

These are the ones I bought because they resembled the ones used in the video I linked to and they have the leads in case I needed any, which I didn't as I retained the original loom leads and only used the clip itself.

A couple of my coil clips snapped when I changed the plugs and I've just replaced them with new clips. A video always is easier to follow than pics and . Easy peezy.

I owned way back when a 3.0S Capri as a teenager, fantastic for handbrake turns and you didn't even need to use the hand brake. Cars like that taught you how to handle torque coupled to low grip and survive.

You can still get bumpers new but they aren't cheap and the pods are factory colour coded so second hand you'll probably want to go for the same colour of car you end up buying. I'd say buy a car and then see what you need and in what colour and go from there. It'd probably be most cost effective for you to buy a stock NA auto donor car and do a plastic swap over and then sell on the kitted up NA. That would obviously involve a much higher initial set up cost so it'd be available funds dependant as NA Autos are at least £5k these days to much more.

Looking at the parts sites there are several different voltage/wattage bulbs used in the instrument clusters and three different bulb holders none of which share the same part number as the OE green climate control panel bulbs. Panel bulbs listed 83101-20080 12V 1.4W, 1 83109-24010 12V 1.4W, 1 83109-24020 12V 3.4W 3 83119-32010 14V 3.0W 3 90981-11018 12V 1.2W 5 Bulb sub assembly/sockets 3101-14030 12V 3.4W 3 83101-14040 12V 1.4W 6 83101-24010 14V 3.0W 3 So it might need some detective work to find out which ones are missing. Not sure why there are 13 bulbs listed for 12 bulb sockets though? The illustration below may help with identifying what you have and whats missing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]226130[/ATTACH]

There is an interested thread on another Supra forum if you decide to go the refurb route.

I gave up some useful information freely by advising that Soarer badges are larger than the OE Supra badges so go figure! If I go on to seek to recoup some, all or even more than my financial outlay spent identifying for my own benefit which Toyota vehicles shared the Supra badges that is entirely up to me and no one else.

I've done fair amount of research into gold badges since the prongs broke off my original bumper badge. You can get the gold cheap plastic ones off eBay occasionally that don't have the prongs but these will go black within a year or three. I have spent a fair bit of cash buying in gold badges used on other Toyota vehicles and think I may finally have the exact one that matches my original badge. Soarer badges are quite a bit bigger than Supra badges so I wouldn't go there if you are wanting OE fitment, you can use them and people probably wouldn't notice the difference unless there was a side by side comparison. I've spent a fair bit of money and time tracking down and buying in various gold badges so I haven't decided yet if I'll give up the information freely or just sell suitable badges when I happen to hit on the right sizes on other Toyota cars that match the OE Supra fitment.

To fit the dust shield its a job best done when its time for the wheel bearings to be replaced to do it all at the same time. I had new shields fitted to my fronts last year, when I had the bearings done. They aren't expensive, direct from Mr T so I'd recommend buy a set and then when you get the bearings changed out get those fitted at the same time.

I wiped out the plug recess thoroughly before removing the plug. Capillary action is a strange phenomena when liquids can flow with or against gravity where pressurised gas pulses will not. Any guide on how to remove a seized plug has spraying with a penetrating oil as the first step. The smoke would only ever occur if it was stood for a good length of time of over a week. All I know now is its been started 4 times in the last 2 months and not a puff, so I'm relieved its a simple fix.

Just to share some hope for anyone suffering the puff of smoke at startup that invariably points to hardened valve seals needing replacement. My 22 year old Supra was giving out the cloud of smoke on startup if left stood for a period of time spanning more than a few days. I changed the spark plugs a couple of months ago and found the plug on cylinder 6 pooled in about 15ml of oil which I wiped out before withdrawing the plug. The plug had oil seep down the full length of the thread. I'm delighted that since changing the plugs there is no longer any sign of smoke on startup. So my valve seal issue has transpired to be a much simpler valve cover gasket issue. Anyone with the tell tale puff of smoke should whip off the plug cover to see if its just a failed gasket feeding a fair amount of oil into the centre plug area before sending their car off for an expensive stem seal job. I have obtained new valve cover gaskets ready to change those to correct the oil leak, just awaiting replacement coil lead loom clips (Japan 6 weeks order) to replace those that shattered when I unclipped the leads as part of the plug change. I've also bought in some new coil connectors and a set of OE coil packs so will change those out as well while I'm tinkering in that area. Its going to be a Spring/Summer job, when the weather is warmer. I'm certain the car will need the valve seals done one day so I have stockpiled all the OE seals and gaskets ready for that day, but that day isn't going to be in 2018. Its going to get a front suspension and frame overhaul with all new OE parts instead.

Here is a video that runs through the possible programming detailed above. If someone tries it it'd be good to know if it works on a Mkiv or not.

I had to extract quite a few bolts in my recent sub frame swap where the bolt heads were so corroded they rounded or turned off altogether. I used a couple of techniques to tackle them successfully with drilling and tapping or using a stud extractor. Drilling out is going to be difficult on a stranded stud from a small size bolt in the centre of the engine bay as the chances you'll be reaching over and drilling straight and true is not that great. If you end up drilling at an angle you could end up with an oval hole with part of the seating thread drilled away and no way to cut a new one. If you do go drilling use the left hand reverse drill carbide bits on a hammer setting which will have a chance of catching and unscrewing the stud. Bad news is the Supra bolts seem to use tough steel and they don't drill easily even with new quality drill bits. I've never been that lucky to have a left hand bit bite though and had to completely drill out. If the worse comes to the worse and you do damage the seating then you can recover the situation by drilling a larger hole and use a helicoil insert to restore the thread. I'd probably want the head on a bench though to ensure a perfectly vertical hole is drilled. If you have lost the bolt head then presumably you can remove the coil packs and cradle to clear access to the damaged bolt stud and if there is any protruding you have options available. If you can grind flats into the bolt stud then you can use a small adjustable or standard spanner. If you can weld globs of metal onto the top of the bolt stud then you use a stud extractor. I prefer doing this to drilling. If you do end up drilling then put some cotton wool down into the plug area to catch any swarf as you won't be able to vac it out afterwards. So you'll need a hammer drill, 6mm left carbide drill bit, mig welder, 6-12mm stud extractor and a steady hand to have all options.

Might be useful to say if auto or manual? There were a couple of auto JDM gauge sets running on eBay com this weekend.

In terms of fobs what you are looking at would be something like the DENSO 1512T. That was standard issue across the Toyota and Lexus range in the mid to late 90's. Few on offer on eBay for around the £30 - £45 mark.

Final shot - programming for a 90's JDM Corolla that used the same remote system as jspec Supras: Hello Sprice, Right here goes, it's a bit of long one i'm afraid Firstly, ensure your vehicle is a japanese buit example ie, chassis number will start with JT----- 1. get in drivers seat leaving door opened and key NOT in ignition 2. insert key into ignition and remove 3. press the door lock - unlock button (on door panel switch gear) 5 times (40 secs max) 4. close drivers door then open it 5. press lock - unlock button 5 times again 6. insert key into ignition 7. turn ign key from 'lock' to 'on' ONCE (no more as you can wipe all codes) 8. remove key from ign 9. the central locking should now start locking and unlocking on it's own 10. within 20 secs press and hold the remote 'lock' switch for more than 1 second 11. once more if the receiver has received the signal the door locks should start operating on own 12. close drivers door and open it 13 press and hold the 'lock' button on remote for more than 1 second. 14 the door locks should once more cycle lock to unlock on own, once this time 15. if another transmitter need tuning carry out steps 10- 15 with next transmitter This should work for you, make sure the interior dome light works, is set to door and not set to off. Another thing, when you do the door lock-unlock cycle (steps 3 and 5 above) its 'lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock. My car is a 1997 bug eye model, I'm presuming the 98 models use a fob like mine (a seperate Denso unit not built into the key).

This thread sheds some more light. looks like USA and japec systems are different. US one were standard factory opener/alarm fit and are programmable with a behind the column box, seems jspec remote opening were an optional extra, fitted under the passenger seat and do not have a program button.

From another thread that said, their US spec entry ecu was behind the steering column and "There is a button flush mounted on the side of the box. It's hard to see unless you remove the box to look around it." I only have one remote so I'd be interested in a solution to buy and programme a spare if someone can figure it out. Good luck!

I've read threads that mention a small black button on the keyless entry ecu that is either located (on Toyotas) under the seat, behind the steering column or under the armrest. If you've had the cover off and not sign of a programme button anywhere then I guess thats bum info.

This looks like a sensible set of instructions for key fob programming on a Supra. If you try it out and it works do let us know. supra fob programming.pdf

I've just de-HID my car due to the MOT changes so you can have them (6k white) if you cover the courier post and pack for which I'd expect £5 would cover it.

If you have the space buy yourself a 2 post lift and if you have the height go for a full height lift. I had a new 4T one fitted for only £1600. I decided to buy a lift after spending a cold winter rolling around on a concrete floor doing the lower panel and arch paintwork and new chrome on one of my cars and it has proved to be the best £1600 I have ever spent on car bits and things.