rider

To fit the dust shield its a job best done when its time for the wheel bearings to be replaced to do it all at the same time. I had new shields fitted to my fronts last year, when I had the bearings done. They aren't expensive, direct from Mr T so I'd recommend buy a set and then when you get the bearings changed out get those fitted at the same time.

I wiped out the plug recess thoroughly before removing the plug. Capillary action is a strange phenomena when liquids can flow with or against gravity where pressurised gas pulses will not. Any guide on how to remove a seized plug has spraying with a penetrating oil as the first step. The smoke would only ever occur if it was stood for a good length of time of over a week. All I know now is its been started 4 times in the last 2 months and not a puff, so I'm relieved its a simple fix.

Just to share some hope for anyone suffering the puff of smoke at startup that invariably points to hardened valve seals needing replacement. My 22 year old Supra was giving out the cloud of smoke on startup if left stood for a period of time spanning more than a few days. I changed the spark plugs a couple of months ago and found the plug on cylinder 6 pooled in about 15ml of oil which I wiped out before withdrawing the plug. The plug had oil seep down the full length of the thread. I'm delighted that since changing the plugs there is no longer any sign of smoke on startup. So my valve seal issue has transpired to be a much simpler valve cover gasket issue. Anyone with the tell tale puff of smoke should whip off the plug cover to see if its just a failed gasket feeding a fair amount of oil into the centre plug area before sending their car off for an expensive stem seal job. I have obtained new valve cover gaskets ready to change those to correct the oil leak, just awaiting replacement coil lead loom clips (Japan 6 weeks order) to replace those that shattered when I unclipped the leads as part of the plug change. I've also bought in some new coil connectors and a set of OE coil packs so will change those out as well while I'm tinkering in that area. Its going to be a Spring/Summer job, when the weather is warmer. I'm certain the car will need the valve seals done one day so I have stockpiled all the OE seals and gaskets ready for that day, but that day isn't going to be in 2018. Its going to get a front suspension and frame overhaul with all new OE parts instead.

Here is a video that runs through the possible programming detailed above. If someone tries it it'd be good to know if it works on a Mkiv or not.

I had to extract quite a few bolts in my recent sub frame swap where the bolt heads were so corroded they rounded or turned off altogether. I used a couple of techniques to tackle them successfully with drilling and tapping or using a stud extractor. Drilling out is going to be difficult on a stranded stud from a small size bolt in the centre of the engine bay as the chances you'll be reaching over and drilling straight and true is not that great. If you end up drilling at an angle you could end up with an oval hole with part of the seating thread drilled away and no way to cut a new one. If you do go drilling use the left hand reverse drill carbide bits on a hammer setting which will have a chance of catching and unscrewing the stud. Bad news is the Supra bolts seem to use tough steel and they don't drill easily even with new quality drill bits. I've never been that lucky to have a left hand bit bite though and had to completely drill out. If the worse comes to the worse and you do damage the seating then you can recover the situation by drilling a larger hole and use a helicoil insert to restore the thread. I'd probably want the head on a bench though to ensure a perfectly vertical hole is drilled. If you have lost the bolt head then presumably you can remove the coil packs and cradle to clear access to the damaged bolt stud and if there is any protruding you have options available. If you can grind flats into the bolt stud then you can use a small adjustable or standard spanner. If you can weld globs of metal onto the top of the bolt stud then you use a stud extractor. I prefer doing this to drilling. If you do end up drilling then put some cotton wool down into the plug area to catch any swarf as you won't be able to vac it out afterwards. So you'll need a hammer drill, 6mm left carbide drill bit, mig welder, 6-12mm stud extractor and a steady hand to have all options.

Might be useful to say if auto or manual? There were a couple of auto JDM gauge sets running on eBay com this weekend.

In terms of fobs what you are looking at would be something like the DENSO 1512T. That was standard issue across the Toyota and Lexus range in the mid to late 90's. Few on offer on eBay for around the £30 - £45 mark.

Final shot - programming for a 90's JDM Corolla that used the same remote system as jspec Supras: Hello Sprice, Right here goes, it's a bit of long one i'm afraid Firstly, ensure your vehicle is a japanese buit example ie, chassis number will start with JT----- 1. get in drivers seat leaving door opened and key NOT in ignition 2. insert key into ignition and remove 3. press the door lock - unlock button (on door panel switch gear) 5 times (40 secs max) 4. close drivers door then open it 5. press lock - unlock button 5 times again 6. insert key into ignition 7. turn ign key from 'lock' to 'on' ONCE (no more as you can wipe all codes) 8. remove key from ign 9. the central locking should now start locking and unlocking on it's own 10. within 20 secs press and hold the remote 'lock' switch for more than 1 second 11. once more if the receiver has received the signal the door locks should start operating on own 12. close drivers door and open it 13 press and hold the 'lock' button on remote for more than 1 second. 14 the door locks should once more cycle lock to unlock on own, once this time 15. if another transmitter need tuning carry out steps 10- 15 with next transmitter This should work for you, make sure the interior dome light works, is set to door and not set to off. Another thing, when you do the door lock-unlock cycle (steps 3 and 5 above) its 'lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock, lock-unlock. My car is a 1997 bug eye model, I'm presuming the 98 models use a fob like mine (a seperate Denso unit not built into the key).

This thread sheds some more light. looks like USA and japec systems are different. US one were standard factory opener/alarm fit and are programmable with a behind the column box, seems jspec remote opening were an optional extra, fitted under the passenger seat and do not have a program button.

From another thread that said, their US spec entry ecu was behind the steering column and "There is a button flush mounted on the side of the box. It's hard to see unless you remove the box to look around it." I only have one remote so I'd be interested in a solution to buy and programme a spare if someone can figure it out. Good luck!

I've read threads that mention a small black button on the keyless entry ecu that is either located (on Toyotas) under the seat, behind the steering column or under the armrest. If you've had the cover off and not sign of a programme button anywhere then I guess thats bum info.

This looks like a sensible set of instructions for key fob programming on a Supra. If you try it out and it works do let us know. supra fob programming.pdf

I've just de-HID my car due to the MOT changes so you can have them (6k white) if you cover the courier post and pack for which I'd expect £5 would cover it.

If you have the space buy yourself a 2 post lift and if you have the height go for a full height lift. I had a new 4T one fitted for only £1600. I decided to buy a lift after spending a cold winter rolling around on a concrete floor doing the lower panel and arch paintwork and new chrome on one of my cars and it has proved to be the best £1600 I have ever spent on car bits and things.

It definitely worth a look. An ex-drifters car, I'm sure its never been over 50mph sideways. Looks good original condition though. One thing that I've always found strange with this car is in all the adverts, it is listed wide and far, there are no interior shots. Maybe its stripped out for racing or got a cage or a butchered dash? So, I'd ask for some interior shots before taking time out to go see.

Those guys haven't listed a Supra for yonks so you know there is no money to be made in importing Supras at the moment. You are now seeing 100k miler TT6's (yes miles not km) cars coming up in Japan for over Y3mn which would be near on £25k landed taxes paid. The JDM importers are all stuck on Datsuns, Hondas or Mitsus these days. The Japan prices for Supras are rising much faster than the UK prices and until a UK correction takes place the importers will, I'd expect, only bring in cars to order and for TT6's they are now realistically likely to be looking at around the £30k mark. So unless the OP can push a little higher to get that free from rust fresh import they may as well stick to looking locally where you can get a very decent car for £24k if someone is prepared to or is looking to sell.

If these were pre-facelift hardtop glass I'd take them off you but they look like blue tint facelift glass. from the pics.

Anyone seeking replacement dash panels or indeed any JDM Supra parts should put a saved search on ebay.com; the parts won't list if you search via ebay.uk. Increasingly breakers there are listing JDM Supra parts that are of no use to the domestic market and there are already a fair number of dash panels listed and even one entire dash for $1k. I have used surface shipping vehicle importers who will bring in larger pieces at a reasonable rate and if they can fit the parts inside cars being transported, often they will bypass any VAT and Duty liability.

I think the front and rear use the same clip. Just bought some spares in myself, £6 each from TCB and I'd expect not too much more from your local friendly Toyota dealer.

Plenty of liquids there, listed. PETROLEUM PARAFFIN OIL 50% MOTOR OIL Gasses would just be the lighter ends of above. You could look at liquids like toluene and phenol for more aggressive solvent type liquids that would be similar to some light end gasses from oil and petrol.

The hoses didn't seem that bad for Toyota Supra genuine, i bought a set recently for £22. The tubes are thick walled to if you match that bending your own rather than using the OE shaped tubes could lead to a poor seal on the push on tubes. So you'd probably be better going for a thinner wall option. As for compatibility this is a good doc to save and keep for future reference.

I'll take the OEM set. PM sent.

Anyone heading off for a bespoke system needs to find out precisely what the fitters are intending to do and preferably see it up on a ramp after its done. MIJ exhausts cut off my rear heat shield (leaving the corners still bolted on) so they could weld a new hanger above where that covered and then cut the original hanger to remove the arms (leaving the triangular base still bolted on) as they would have got in the way of their system back box. They also cut off the 2nd cat flange that seats the OE compressible gasket so they could fit a standard flush gasket. Restored the car last year back to the original cats, hanger and shields setup and the parts cost exceeded that of the MIJ stainless exhaust.

If going adjustable then this may be useful reading for you.