rider

Noted, I'll leave the cans of beer stowed in favour of flasks of tea while we are doing the seal changes. If it does take a bit longer than hoped for its no real problem as the car is not a daily driver so I could do it over several weekends if needed.

I hope you have never waste time and money applying penetrating fluids as they would never work, requiring capillary action to be drawn into torqued threads. In the same way as boundary lubrication is also impossible because that, similar to capillary action, requires an affinity between the liquid (through polarity or chemical interaction) and in the case of cars metal surfaces that is greater than the interaction within the liquid. I'm not about to throw my post grad qualification in a highly technical subject away simply because I just don't see the poo.

I went to see this car today seeing I was in the area and its a sound car. Bodywork is oem and tidy. Underneath has some rust evident but nothing that looked like serious rust from what I saw other than the tank guard. The seller has a spare guard which is decent. Engine runs sweet and the owner said it runs really well. Wheels need replacing. Engine bay a bit scruffy but easily sorted. Main item missing is the air con. Looks like it may have been stripped down, possibly a former track car? Interior is oem with a painted dash, close to item colour from a former less oem colour. I'd say interior is 95% there. A sound basis for someone to easily revert to stock. I'd reckon £2k to £4k would see it back to former condition depending on how much of the air con is missing. Genuine seller, nice guy.

I only occasionally got a puff of smoke if the car is stood for a long time, 1 week +. Since wiping out the oil pool from the spark plug well no smoke. I've been persuaded by my mechanic matey that I may as well just change the stem seals seeing I'm taking the covers off and that's half way there so he is going to give me a hand with the job. I've bought in a compression tester that I can use the hose from to do the airline method which is supposed to be a lot quicker than stuffing the cylinder with rope. I'll near TDC each cylinder just in case refitting the spring collets breaks the pressure seal on the valve seat. Reading around various forums you have guide pressures of 20psi to 100psi so I'll start off at a regulated 50psi and see how it goes from there. My bits of kit, the collet collector and air line are coming from the USA. Typically, what costs $35 over there costs £65 here. They should be here in a week or so so I'm panning on tackling the job right after the end of month MOT. If you have time, feel free to come by and observe. I'd hope we could manage it all over a normal day or two short days. I'll be changing the 4 remaining original coil clips for new ones at the same time and all of the valve cover hoses as well. The very detailed guide that I'll be following is here. . Though you do need to add in having the cylinder bunged with rope or pressurised. And while you are at it, you may as well . If you do the work you'll probably find the loom number 7 clips disintegrate, these carry the loom to the coil clip attached onto onto the coil plate. I bought a set in from Japan that took 10 weeks to arrive. You can use generic clips but if you need one or two OE clips I bought in a few spares as the same clips are also used in the wider engine bay as loom clips.

There are probably lots of questions that people could raise on this, like why start to strip it down removing discontinued parts if the only issue is suspected worn turbos? When you can buy second hand turbos for £200 or reconditioned hybrids for £1k it looks a slightly strange choice? You may be better asking a mod to move this thread to the Supra Chat section seeing its more a whats it worth to maybe sell in a few weeks than its for sale now thread. Its near impossible to value though as there is no comment on whether the car is a runner or not and a non runner project with unknown issues will be priced very different to a runner with identified or identifiable issues. Keron is after projects or scrappers all the time, you could try running it past him and then at least you'll have something to work with or from.

early cars have a charcoal tint and later cars a blue tint.

Its sobering in a sad kind of way - I ran through a couple more shots this morning and on the 12 that came into shot 1 had the plate whitened and the other 11 are all lost. Leaves me wondering how many in the owners garage are still around, at 0 out of 16 I'm going to recon not many. A few will have likely gone onto private plates or even sold outside of GB but it seems most are gone forever and are now shots of former Supras posted by former owners. The Supra Garage is like a montage to yesteryear where cars that used to be are shown in their prime.

I haven't come across boiling batteries for over 30 years. If you are pushing more than 14.5V out of the alternator its regulator is fubar and that will cause the battery to overheat and perform electrolysis of water to its constituent gasses. A working regulator will kick in normally at 14.2V so check what voltage is reaching your battery with the engine running at fast idle and that'll tell you how bad the regulation is. Its probably about right though, Japanese or German alternator 20 years, Chinese 2 years.

With the six members pictures that appear on the home page I decided to play the Garage game and check the MOT history. One was disqualified from the game because it was a MR2. Of the other five one, a 93 car, has no online history available so has transitioned to bean cans or somewhere else a long time ago. One fell off the MOT and tax records in 2012, another one in 2013, one is now a BMW 530 and one is now a Toyota Lucida. Not a single Supra still around on the same number plate doing the same old MOT, tax or SORN year in year out.

The positive is that there has been some fairly fundamental changes implemented and announced since this thread started, because of or in spite of is totally immaterial. From simple thing like the copyright statement is no longer years in the past to a detailed review has been undertaken identifying the 'dead' threads and dead limbs on the forum tree. There's improved ease of use with uploading larger picture size allowed and dead PB picture links overcome with embedded pictures. Also a pretty major face-lift in the offing. Following a bit of housekeeping and a anticipated revamp it'll be up to owners present past and future to determine if the forum has an enthusiastic and engaged following or succumbs to FB groups and social comms app cliques. I believe its Mawby and Pete leading the revisions so all power and appreciation to them.

Must have run out of big round VW badges in his area. http://www.vwheritage.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/main-shot.jpg

Might be worth mentioning if its pre facelift or the post 96 wheels you are after, if you have a preference for one or the other.

I sold a brand new OEM 2jz coil pack to a Frenchman for £95 and I have received a complaint - why only one when motor has 6? Has to be a Lexus owner.

That does look to be an OEM badge to me. Its faded commensurate with age. Proof will be when its removed, if it has the mounting pins and not just a slap on eBay effort. I recently paid very strong money for a NOS gold OEM bumper badge because, well they don't make them anymore and if my car is ever resprayed its an obvious addition to apply new or vgc badges if you can; rather than return older more faded badges onto new paint.

Thanks for the comment, no sealant or grease on the seal it will be then.

I'm going to be removing my camshafts later this month and am unsure what is the best shaft seal sealant to use when they are refitted. Recommendations across forums range from Loctite 518 to standard silicone type. Anyone got anything to recommend that they have used with great success? Also, some say to pack the seals with grease to ensure the seal spring remains in place when fitting, others say don't use grease at all. Which should it be?

Seems they like to find any reason to extract administration fees starting at £55 from a series of online reviews. Its a brokerage so they are probably on low commission and admin fees will probably quadruple their take. If its not an agreed value policy you'll probably only get 1/3 of market value in a total loss situation.

These are the ones I bought because they resembled the ones used in the video I linked to and they have the leads in case I needed any, which I didn't as I retained the original loom leads and only used the clip itself.

A couple of my coil clips snapped when I changed the plugs and I've just replaced them with new clips. A video always is easier to follow than pics and . Easy peezy.

I owned way back when a 3.0S Capri as a teenager, fantastic for handbrake turns and you didn't even need to use the hand brake. Cars like that taught you how to handle torque coupled to low grip and survive.

You can still get bumpers new but they aren't cheap and the pods are factory colour coded so second hand you'll probably want to go for the same colour of car you end up buying. I'd say buy a car and then see what you need and in what colour and go from there. It'd probably be most cost effective for you to buy a stock NA auto donor car and do a plastic swap over and then sell on the kitted up NA. That would obviously involve a much higher initial set up cost so it'd be available funds dependant as NA Autos are at least £5k these days to much more.

Looking at the parts sites there are several different voltage/wattage bulbs used in the instrument clusters and three different bulb holders none of which share the same part number as the OE green climate control panel bulbs. Panel bulbs listed 83101-20080 12V 1.4W, 1 83109-24010 12V 1.4W, 1 83109-24020 12V 3.4W 3 83119-32010 14V 3.0W 3 90981-11018 12V 1.2W 5 Bulb sub assembly/sockets 3101-14030 12V 3.4W 3 83101-14040 12V 1.4W 6 83101-24010 14V 3.0W 3 So it might need some detective work to find out which ones are missing. Not sure why there are 13 bulbs listed for 12 bulb sockets though? The illustration below may help with identifying what you have and whats missing. [ATTACH=CONFIG]226130[/ATTACH]

There is an interested thread on another Supra forum if you decide to go the refurb route.

I gave up some useful information freely by advising that Soarer badges are larger than the OE Supra badges so go figure! If I go on to seek to recoup some, all or even more than my financial outlay spent identifying for my own benefit which Toyota vehicles shared the Supra badges that is entirely up to me and no one else.

I've done fair amount of research into gold badges since the prongs broke off my original bumper badge. You can get the gold cheap plastic ones off eBay occasionally that don't have the prongs but these will go black within a year or three. I have spent a fair bit of cash buying in gold badges used on other Toyota vehicles and think I may finally have the exact one that matches my original badge. Soarer badges are quite a bit bigger than Supra badges so I wouldn't go there if you are wanting OE fitment, you can use them and people probably wouldn't notice the difference unless there was a side by side comparison. I've spent a fair bit of money and time tracking down and buying in various gold badges so I haven't decided yet if I'll give up the information freely or just sell suitable badges when I happen to hit on the right sizes on other Toyota cars that match the OE Supra fitment.