rider

If they are stock in good condition there will likely be those with painted dash panels that they would love to swap with you.

When I imported a car from outside of the UK all the DVLA ask for is year of production and then input that into the V5. I gave the date of production as the date of first registration and that got logged into the V5 as 01/01. Yours has been logged as 31/12. Seems without the original bill of sale they go for the start or end of the year on whatever year is logged into the import documentation. I wouldn't bother contacted DVLA, they only input data and collect taxes and aren't particularly bothered about whats on the date of registration. Leave it for the owner to worry about when the cars reach 40 years old and they'll be wanting to get the tax and MOT exempt status as early as possible; that's a while off yet for your car. You can see from the how many left site that some Supras are listed manufactured as late as 2012, which is what will be down on their V5 document.

Run your frame number on the Supra Registry and that'll tell you when the car was manufactured and the factory setup.

Fit the timing belt so the valves hit fully open midway between TDC and BDC? There are videos on shimming with 2 thou increment shims with the head on after the cams are removed then reinstalled and rechecked. I was going to use as reference when I remove my cams later this month, obviously its using standard cams because no interference issues there with cam rotation

I was looking at Jap stock 2 months back and all seemed to have come fly with me wings and scoop the nearest whale front bumpers. Prices are going up much faster in Japan than here ATM so its getting rare to see fresh imports especially through the usual importer network unless its to specific order. eBay has a stock fronts surfacing at regular intervals so it'd probably be best for you to save a search on there to catch one when it comes up that suits what you are looking for in the location you'd be willing to travel to. You can get them still from Toyota but they aren't cheap. Great colour.

There are lots of Chinese $8 eBay specials masquerading and selling as £70 to £120 branded pumps. I wrote up this guide on how to work out a fake from a genuine Walbro that may be of use to you.

You can use my indoor 2 post full rise lift if that'd help. Actually, it really would help in this kind of task. To do the job properly you'd need a few days spare and to park yourself up overnight in a local hostelry or rent a cheap Enterprise car to get yourself home each evening. You'll need lots of sandpaper, sanding discs, wire brushes (all sizes). I use Aquasteel rust converter, dinitrol 3125, Zinc primer and then just over paint with POR or standard acrylic. With a smooth paint you'll be able to see quicker when rust returns that if you apply a thick coating. You'd need to decide how far you want to take it, which bits you want to work around and which you'd take off for better access. Side pods, hockey stocks, road wheels and heat shields are probably a minimum to remove but then you need to think tank guard and the ultimate would be sub frame off but then you are into a bit of a project that could run for weeks rather than days.

There was a UK Auto, low mileage though, listed for £29k recently that is no longer listed. So it may have sold. Maybe someone took a copy of that ad they can let you have?

If it were my car I'd be looking for £22k insured value. I had no problems with Lancaster agreeing a value I requested when I was insured with them 3 years ago. Cannot recall if I had to submit recent similar vehicle ads or just pictures. Think it was just pictures.

If it was only a puff of smoke after weeks of standing it likely wouldn't bother me but, a leaking valve cover gasket deep pooling oil into the number 6 spark plug recess does. Having a mechanic matey offering up free time to assist in changing out the stem seals (which really means I'll be assisting him) is an offer I find very difficult to resit. If it was just me, doubtless I'd replace the cover gasket and be more than happy to stop there.

Noted, I'll leave the cans of beer stowed in favour of flasks of tea while we are doing the seal changes. If it does take a bit longer than hoped for its no real problem as the car is not a daily driver so I could do it over several weekends if needed.

I hope you have never waste time and money applying penetrating fluids as they would never work, requiring capillary action to be drawn into torqued threads. In the same way as boundary lubrication is also impossible because that, similar to capillary action, requires an affinity between the liquid (through polarity or chemical interaction) and in the case of cars metal surfaces that is greater than the interaction within the liquid. I'm not about to throw my post grad qualification in a highly technical subject away simply because I just don't see the poo.

I went to see this car today seeing I was in the area and its a sound car. Bodywork is oem and tidy. Underneath has some rust evident but nothing that looked like serious rust from what I saw other than the tank guard. The seller has a spare guard which is decent. Engine runs sweet and the owner said it runs really well. Wheels need replacing. Engine bay a bit scruffy but easily sorted. Main item missing is the air con. Looks like it may have been stripped down, possibly a former track car? Interior is oem with a painted dash, close to item colour from a former less oem colour. I'd say interior is 95% there. A sound basis for someone to easily revert to stock. I'd reckon £2k to £4k would see it back to former condition depending on how much of the air con is missing. Genuine seller, nice guy.

I only occasionally got a puff of smoke if the car is stood for a long time, 1 week +. Since wiping out the oil pool from the spark plug well no smoke. I've been persuaded by my mechanic matey that I may as well just change the stem seals seeing I'm taking the covers off and that's half way there so he is going to give me a hand with the job. I've bought in a compression tester that I can use the hose from to do the airline method which is supposed to be a lot quicker than stuffing the cylinder with rope. I'll near TDC each cylinder just in case refitting the spring collets breaks the pressure seal on the valve seat. Reading around various forums you have guide pressures of 20psi to 100psi so I'll start off at a regulated 50psi and see how it goes from there. My bits of kit, the collet collector and air line are coming from the USA. Typically, what costs $35 over there costs £65 here. They should be here in a week or so so I'm panning on tackling the job right after the end of month MOT. If you have time, feel free to come by and observe. I'd hope we could manage it all over a normal day or two short days. I'll be changing the 4 remaining original coil clips for new ones at the same time and all of the valve cover hoses as well. The very detailed guide that I'll be following is here. . Though you do need to add in having the cylinder bunged with rope or pressurised. And while you are at it, you may as well . If you do the work you'll probably find the loom number 7 clips disintegrate, these carry the loom to the coil clip attached onto onto the coil plate. I bought a set in from Japan that took 10 weeks to arrive. You can use generic clips but if you need one or two OE clips I bought in a few spares as the same clips are also used in the wider engine bay as loom clips.

There are probably lots of questions that people could raise on this, like why start to strip it down removing discontinued parts if the only issue is suspected worn turbos? When you can buy second hand turbos for £200 or reconditioned hybrids for £1k it looks a slightly strange choice? You may be better asking a mod to move this thread to the Supra Chat section seeing its more a whats it worth to maybe sell in a few weeks than its for sale now thread. Its near impossible to value though as there is no comment on whether the car is a runner or not and a non runner project with unknown issues will be priced very different to a runner with identified or identifiable issues. Keron is after projects or scrappers all the time, you could try running it past him and then at least you'll have something to work with or from.

early cars have a charcoal tint and later cars a blue tint.

Its sobering in a sad kind of way - I ran through a couple more shots this morning and on the 12 that came into shot 1 had the plate whitened and the other 11 are all lost. Leaves me wondering how many in the owners garage are still around, at 0 out of 16 I'm going to recon not many. A few will have likely gone onto private plates or even sold outside of GB but it seems most are gone forever and are now shots of former Supras posted by former owners. The Supra Garage is like a montage to yesteryear where cars that used to be are shown in their prime.

I haven't come across boiling batteries for over 30 years. If you are pushing more than 14.5V out of the alternator its regulator is fubar and that will cause the battery to overheat and perform electrolysis of water to its constituent gasses. A working regulator will kick in normally at 14.2V so check what voltage is reaching your battery with the engine running at fast idle and that'll tell you how bad the regulation is. Its probably about right though, Japanese or German alternator 20 years, Chinese 2 years.

With the six members pictures that appear on the home page I decided to play the Garage game and check the MOT history. One was disqualified from the game because it was a MR2. Of the other five one, a 93 car, has no online history available so has transitioned to bean cans or somewhere else a long time ago. One fell off the MOT and tax records in 2012, another one in 2013, one is now a BMW 530 and one is now a Toyota Lucida. Not a single Supra still around on the same number plate doing the same old MOT, tax or SORN year in year out.

The positive is that there has been some fairly fundamental changes implemented and announced since this thread started, because of or in spite of is totally immaterial. From simple thing like the copyright statement is no longer years in the past to a detailed review has been undertaken identifying the 'dead' threads and dead limbs on the forum tree. There's improved ease of use with uploading larger picture size allowed and dead PB picture links overcome with embedded pictures. Also a pretty major face-lift in the offing. Following a bit of housekeeping and a anticipated revamp it'll be up to owners present past and future to determine if the forum has an enthusiastic and engaged following or succumbs to FB groups and social comms app cliques. I believe its Mawby and Pete leading the revisions so all power and appreciation to them.

Must have run out of big round VW badges in his area. http://www.vwheritage.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/main-shot.jpg

Might be worth mentioning if its pre facelift or the post 96 wheels you are after, if you have a preference for one or the other.

I sold a brand new OEM 2jz coil pack to a Frenchman for £95 and I have received a complaint - why only one when motor has 6? Has to be a Lexus owner.

That does look to be an OEM badge to me. Its faded commensurate with age. Proof will be when its removed, if it has the mounting pins and not just a slap on eBay effort. I recently paid very strong money for a NOS gold OEM bumper badge because, well they don't make them anymore and if my car is ever resprayed its an obvious addition to apply new or vgc badges if you can; rather than return older more faded badges onto new paint.

Thanks for the comment, no sealant or grease on the seal it will be then.