rider

Cars just had its annual garage service and they then take it off for the MOT. The MOT tester always notes the car as the prelude to Summer and apparently always comments is it really another year gone by. It came back that the work was noticed and fully appreciated with the tester looking over and chatting about all the underside work more than bothering to test anything (seeing its all new parts he probably figured there would be little point). Cleanest car he'd ever looked at underneath. It feels quite rewarding to have all the hidden work appreciated, even if it's only going to happen once a year. The garage mechanic also mentioned a delivery driver turned up who was all over the car. Someone who had been looking for a TT6 for years but in the end had to opt for a 300ZX as he couldn't find a Supra. The ZX is a good car, just not quite a Supra.

I've seen it done, on videos, with a nano sim ejectors tools with apparent ease to raise the clamp over the pin hook which then allows for the lead withdrawal from the clip. I've used watchmaker flat head screwdrivers myself to remove coil clip leads from their clips.

I've made the payment.

I'll take it for £50 delivered to Shropshire. PM me over payment info if still available. Jelly bought one already, still struggling to get it to work though hence why he is delving back into the loom clips, wiring and sensors now.

Plenty of US sites are listing them for around $7 each so be worthwhile asking TCB parts if they can get hold of them for you or failing that placing an enquiry to some of the US suppliers.

I only did 400 miles in my Supra last year but loved it, seems to be running as good as I can ever recall it has over the last 20 years. I find the less I drive the Supra the better it seems, compared to all the other cars I own or drive. But, if you've lost the love may as well sell it onto someone else as these are old cars now in need of close attention to maintain at their best with increasingly hard to find parts and when you can find them they are increasingly expensive parts.

You see these advertised in good condition from £250 to £500. They sell faster at £250 the pair.

They are still available but around £250, or you could try fleabay.

Why would you want to change the bushes if they don't need changing? The bolts just sleeve through the bushing. If its just the alignment you want adjusting all you need is two alignment cams, two washers and two nuts. You'll probably need to drill off the old nuts to get the original bolts out of the frame. If you don't need to break the ball joint I'd leave well alone and just run the new cam bolt through the original bush. I recently fitted new arms and I was surprised how good and firm the original arm ball joints and bushes were after 110k miles so unless you have knocks or excessive play why bother? I only bothered changing out because I am on a mission to renew everything front and rear with new OEM parts while they are still available.

Available for £3.5k, apparently.

The import duty rate on vehicle parts is 4.5%, VAT is payable on the part price plus freight plus duty. Then you have customs clearance charges applied by Parcel-force or Royal Mail. Couriers tend to include this in their price but if it ships by normal mail, say US Post, then it'll be handled by RM this side. If you can find a car importer who is willing to put your bits inside a car they are importing then you avoid any import duty charges and VAT. Some US car importers will work with you in this regard, but then you need to be willing to wait up to 3 months for your parts.

Thread on US Supra forum it flashes when theres a prob with trac control. ie trac motor not working, butterfly jamming open etc You could take it off and give it a clean up followed by a battery disconnect ECU reset and see if that resolves the problem.

You could just slap a nano rubber pad onto the dash.

The one on PH was around for a good while in the beginning of last year when it was first imported so its not really a recent import, like the ad says it is. It came with a poorly fitted veilside front bumper that just looked all wrong and the owner who was the original importer came on here looking to procure a OEM front bumper. He must have found one because it has one now. It was for sale a year ago for £22k from memory, but thats Supra inflation. It did hang around a long time first time it was for sale so that would suggest all was not perfect with the car, to justify the top of market price. It'd be worthwhile asking if the current owner is the one who brought it in and if they are that would say it didn't actually sell when advertised extensively over a three month period last year. If the current owner bought it last year, you'd be wise to ask why sell so soon after buying. For £26k as advertised or £25k your budget you are at the top of the market and have every right to expect close to perfection so don't entertain anything with a list of bad bits or questionable history for that price.

You can get a very nice manual NA for £8k or £9k and a decent one for a bit less. There looks to be a lot of damage and the collapsed suspension could have sent some serious force through the sub frame and floor panels. Looks like an original silver which has been sprayed black to a budget with plastic on and you'd assume also then with glass in. Due to its popularity at the time silver cars are now probably the least valued colour and that will always be reflected on the VIN plate. You have to be looking at least £2k in new and second second hand parts along with a cheap paint job to get it back together plus your time so if its a hobby project it'll be worthwhile. I would have thought £2.5k could buy it, £3.5k is a lot for a wrecked NA.

If the engine, the running gear (6sp and diff) and interior can be recycled it'd probably be a £8k scrapper (not a great deal more as none of the bodywork is worth a fig) so asking £7.5k means the seller is dreaming or very hopeful. Looks like it was a ragged track car that left the track in an out of control fashion.

You could see if you have any error codes, that'll let you know if its a faulty ABS sensor. If the ECU does say speed sensor fault then you need to unplug the sensors and check there is a resistance across the sensor leads of several thousand ohms to point to which sensor has failed. If there is no resistance or no circuit the sensor or wiring or pickup ring has failed.

If you buy facelift and keep the originals then you have all bases covered and you'll always be able to sell the spare set if you ever sell the car, probably at a profit to.

If you haven't visited your coil packs in a while you may well find the coil loom plugs are very brittle and you'll break a few pulling them off the coil packs. So I'd recommend you get 6 of the plugs in ready to change the lot out while you have the loom wires hanging. Easy enough to swap out, all you need is a very small flat head screwdriver and decent eyesight. You'll also likely find the 'number 7' loom clips trunking the coil pack leads are brittle and crumble when opened so it'd be a good idea to have a few clips spare. Generic will do if you are in a hurry as the Toyota ones took 10 weeks to arrive from Japan when i ordered some a few months ago. When you tackle the top of the engine be prepared for bits of plastic from the coil pack plugs and clips to fall into the spark plug recesses that will need withdrawing before you remove the spark plugs. Space is tight with the plug in place but you don't want bits of plastic falling down plug holes. There is a guide on this site on how to change the stem seals that includes all the part numbers required for tackling that particular job.

I've always found insurance companies totally fair. In any claim its always been dealt with quickly and I've always been left with the car fixed to the standard I required with parts I authorised. In the one instance of a total loss due to theft and non-recovery I wrote a letter to the insurer outlining why my car was excellent in every way and would require an excellent replacement to be equivalent and their assessor agreed with my well above market valuation to achieve this goal. The only caveat being I only ever go with insurance companies who have excellent customer service reviews from media and customers who then are not usually the cheapest quote on offer. As for agreed value being waived in the event of theft, my classic car policies (unless i've missed something in the small print) just have a higher excess for theft. With AF they tend have lots of little add ons so maybe its just another premium they apply to extend the agreed value to a theft total loss scenario.

Maybe some more bad news, their web site is offline. [ATTACH=CONFIG]226716[/ATTACH] Also credit rating withdrawn as annual filing report overdue. A company is allowed 9 months to file accounts after the year end, still not filed 10 months later.

If you can give me a delivered price on the steering column wiper and indicator stalks I'll dibs on that.

Its little consolation but you are not the only one to experience a non functioning unit. There is a thread on here from 2006 reporting a similar problem. No solution offered unfortunately but you could send a speculative email to the OP to see if they still have the same email address and did manage to resolve the problem you are encountering. You won't be able to PM them as the OP is a former member, from Ireland, but there is an email option on their profile which presumably still directs to their registered address. Or maybe you or some people you know, know who they are?

I bought in a full upper and lower OEM set for the front recently from TCB Parts, sitting in boxes ready to be fitted in the Autumn.