rider

You probably should keep up with the going rate for agreed value insurance otherwise you could find your £30k car being paid off with a £6k cheque from your insurers in the event of a total loss.

I recon if you look into the old BL or Fords parts bin you could find what you are looking for. In the 60's and 70's chrome trim strips where everywhere on old Triumphs, Morris, Austin and MG cars. I recall Cortinas, Capris and Anglias had them too along the flanks and around the windows. I checked with the side chrome trim on my MGB, that'd be perfect but its a few mm wider. Moggy minors of the post split screen era had chrome insets into the window rubber, I was looking at one earlier this week as a mate has that car and we will be changing out the screen rubber; they have to be somewhere around the 12mm mark. I'm heading over there today so I'll try to remember to take a ruler and measure up the window surround trim.

I'd recommend you pull off the air inlet and unbolt the vent, from there you can then remove the ducting rubber, You should then get some idea how far the rust has spread. Judging from the pic you could probably bash the holes on the sill to make one very big hole, If you have holes in the sills then you probably are going to be surprised/shocked how much rust there is going on elsewhere unseen. The only way to tackle it is with cut out and new metal or a lot of prep and treatment. Adding over the rust plastic would only make sense if you were looking to move the problem quickly onto someone else. Looks like there are rust bubbles at the base of the door as well so that's something best tackled sooner rather than later. Having done a 100 hour rust bust myself last year its something that is a labour of love or madness but sometimes its the only way to ensure these old cars keep going for the long term.

I've only ever seen that on really old cars where the mounts are a little soggy rather than firm. Mind you, the Supra is a really old car.

There shouldn't be any discernible gearbox noise from within the cab. A bit of flywheel clatter at standing tickover isn't unusual. Be worth investigating the box noise to see if it can be tied down to specific gears or all gears. First checking the oil condition and level of course. A lot of members use, including me, Royal Purple Syncromax in the 6sp box. You'll need just under 2 quarts to fill a box from drained. If changing the oil make sure you tackle the fill plug before draining.

There are a few of us in Shropshire with Supras. I have a TT6 that I bought in 1998 and another member Crossy has a single T Auto that he bought last year and both cars are reasonably stock looking examples. You are more than welcome to drop by for a look see and talk over what to look for and I'm sure Crossy would extend a similar invitation. PM if that'd be something you'd want to do.

I have the HKS Hi Power Racing with its 94mm pipe on my car and its really quiet on the inside but people say it sounds the part from the outside. There are both cats in place on my car. I prefer it to my old 3 inch bespoke MIJ exhaust that was a lot louder and very boomy on overrun, maybe its an age thing?

This might help till you can get the paper manuals.

It is dependent on the shipping being fulfilled by Amazon from their warehouse rather than from a third party vendor.

See if you can get it via amazon.com. I just had a small jiffy envelope with carburettor parts from them and it was something like US$4 shipping.

I'll go for the steering setup if you can price up with delivery please, standard UK address.

Best buying the spring clips new from Toyota, I was surprised how much more spring there was in a new clip compared to the old ones I replaced. I didn't keep the old ones or you could have had them.

There was a set on eBay recently that started out at over £200 and finished up at buy it now £145 or best offer. Didn't reappear after that so not sure if they sold or if the seller gave up trying.

You probably have way back, they acquired Lockheed.

Maybe this swap wheels app might help. Never tried it but is says upload a pic of your own car then play. Used a new parts supplier today for Delphi discs and pads for my L322; LRS Offroad. Very helpful on the phone and quickly ordered. Don't know if you've ever used them but seem pretty on the ball with OK prices and I just wanted to avoid Britpart for the brakes even though they are half the price - for a reason.

I have a set of 16" pre facelift rims that I advertised all freshly painted to a pretty good standard with caps for £200 and no takers so I'm just holding onto them. By contrast I bought a set of 17's nowhere near so well painted for £350. So as Scooter says the demand and price is more toward the 17's rather than 16's and also I can confirm the tyre choice on the higher profile for the 16's is very limited. I recon it'd be £100 if you wanted to move them quickly and price up from there would have an exponential affect on how long they would take to shift. The tyres won't really add to the wheel appeal, personally I never understood why people would put economy tyres onto a Supra.

There is a lot of slack in that drive. Its easy enough to drop and take the casing apart to have a look but I'd start checking the classifieds.

With Supra inflation running at 30% in Japan the trade predictions that stock TT6's will soon match NSX's in value is well within reach in just a few more years. On the way owners can revel in increasing values piling extra costs onto insurance underwriting and higher parts prices. These cars are destined to become garage ornaments costing lots of money per mile to drive, think mine is already there.

These guys are pretty good at tracking down hard to find parts at a decent price if there are any remaining in the official supply chain. They ship US Mail though so it usually takes up to two weeks for parts to arrive and then there is the RM handling charge (£15) plus duty payment (4%) to consider. Rock Auto is showing available stock on the front pair of sensors. There are a few people here with spare sensors so if you plead with an attractive offer then someone may be prepared to part with their precious spares.

It would be useful if you can expand a bit. Does the car move or just make noise when you engage the clutch and not move? If you can raise the back on axle stands and have a co-pilot put it into gear and go through the gears that could help you identify specifically where the noise is originating from and from that the probable part that is broken or breaking.

As with all these old cars it'd be worthwhile mentioning whats happening with or work that has been done underneath. If you retained the original bumpers and side trim that'd add significantly to the cars appeal, those bull horn headlight washers are worth their weight in gold these days and an active spoiler would also add to its originality. Stock is where the market value is rising fastest these days, by some way.

Be interesting for a comment in 6 months time as to whether you are happy to let go or regret letting go. Lots of people have moved out of Supra ownership never to return so it is a process that can be seen as a stage and over. As the price go up doubtless the temptation to cash in will become unbearable to many and Supras on the road will become an increasingly rare sight as they become too valuable to drive.

Had a long chat with the guy who does specialist 3D printing, largely for rare and exotic motorbikes which is his passion. He said he could price up an airbox from the dimensions and pictures. My airbox is firmly in the car and I don't plan taking it out anytime soon so it'd need someone else to measure up. So if anyone has the TT box sitting around who could take some measurements of the box and the lid separately then we could probably arrive at a commercial printed price. The price would be to print a box of that size (costing material and time) not to replicate the box as that would require sophisticated scanning that he said could be up to a days work to deliver a file that could be used by any 3D printer or 3D printing company. So any item has a one off setup charge and then its down to individual printing costs from that file. So progress pending anyone coming up with dimensions and a set of sides and top and bottom pics.

You'll probably have more luck borrowing one to get a 3D print copy. I haven't seen a TT air box offered for sale for nearly 2 years and that was in Australia for A$200. My mate does 3D printing for a hobby/venture, I might ask him how feasible it is to start knocking them out.

As a word of caution on the ARB it would help to check/state the condition under the bushes as I found my old discarded bar had pronounced conical wear and this area, where they exit the bush hub side, is the not uncommon fracture point on these bars. I must have one of these garage clear out sometime.