rider

Its a boomerang sale having failed to meet reserve last time around. I forgot to mention the lights anomaly to the Brightwell office guy I talked to though I did let it be known that I thought their price guide was pure fantasy land. Comment came back was these fetch strong money these days. Really was my parting comment, acting like I didn't know.

I've have actually seen this happen, invariably on an incline rather than on level ground when a catch can fitted as an aftermarket thought was full to brimming with oil.

Went to Brightwells today and had a look around the cars there to see if there was anything worth flipping and stopped by the Supra they have on auction. The headlights aren't actually yellowed, they have a lot of rust inside giving the yellow tinge. I've never seen that before, otherwise looks straight enough.

Another Supra at Brightwells. Silver JDM TT auto with price guide £35-£40k +15% buyers premium. I doubt it'll make £30k. Being sold as investment grade (due to its mileage, originality and condition) with 64k low mileage. It has a chequered MOT history with missing years and a multiple MOT point fail only 120 miles on from a clean MOT pass. Including an advisory for wheel bearing play on two wheels. I changed all my original wheel bearings out at 105k miles just for something to do. Maybe they just needed to be nipped up? https://www.brightwells.com/timed-sale/5371/lot/615994 End Bid - £27,500 + 15% Buyers Premium

A final entry on this for the archive. The rear screen is toughened glass and there are only a few companies in the UK that can manufacture curved toughened glass. There are more options for the front screen available, presumably because the demand for replacement windscreens is so much higher than for door or rear screen glass. The good news is that anything glass wise is possible, at a price. From the info I gained the minimum production run is 10 units. Tooling costs would be around £5k per item of glass. Tools would be stored for a limited time period if unused, usually around 2 years. All manufactured screens would need to be shipped off to hold in store somewhere. For anyone doing say a rear screen then the initial outlay would be around £9k for first 10 rear screens and then £4k for the next 10. Front screens are cheaper, around £100 a unit cheaper. So, if we imagine I was doing glass I'd need to start out at £1k for a rear screen and £900 for a front screen. So it's something that is viable at Toyota dealer prices once all glass is discontinued. If someone like me or Keron ever takes this on then people shouldn't expect a bargain price per unit, but it won't cost the Earth either.

Check with your insurer or broker, Hegarty (a broker) include European breakdown on the policy I have.

I received a price and lead time from Toyota, £1,105.48 with 1 month lead time. So grab one while stocks last as production is due to end in June according to their website.

You have to worry about some eBay listings, sold as for 1993 - 97 with a blue tint. Pre-facelift cars are green tint sun strip. The first glass to look into would be the rear heated element screen.

Strange that Amayama have a shipping price on the part number listing if they don't/won't ship glass. I've sent an email to my local pet Toyota dealer to enquire on availability, timeline to supply and price on a heritage screen that has production ending in June 2023 so it should be interesting to see what comes back from the Toyota dealership on that.

Hi Andy, for those seriously interested then I'm hoping we can get three to five people together to work out if its a viable business. Before I checked the Amayama prices I had estimated that the screen price would need to be around the £1k + VAT mark to cover the tooling outlay over a reasonable number of units sold. So it is a financially viable project if there is the will power and cash outlay to get it up and running. I have a 0.4 acre enclosed building so storage isn't an issue. What would be useful is finding someone with good contacts into the like of FedEx or UPS to get good World-wide shipping rates locked down. Amayama can ship the screens for £120, I know from things I've shipping in or out that if you went on the FedEx site and quoted it you'd probably be looking at £650 one off price. So getting the logistics right is probably the make or break.

As part of the outside of the official Toyota heritage project where people associated with this group have looked at all sorts from badges, belts, ABS sensors and control arms I've been looking at the Supra glass situation. There are some facelift windscreens still in circulation but beyond that pretty much all the glass seems to now be discontinued. Which, makes replacement following accidents, stone chips, vandalism and breakage when removing the glass (to undertake a respray or panel repair) a serious headache. I have trawled the World and there isn't a heritage glass option for the A80 Supra anywhere in the World that I can find. There is the option to have new glass made but a couple of things are required up front. The first being a screen available to be scanned and moulds prepared (I have obtained outline quotes for this). The second being the initial cost of tooling and funding a minimum production run. This is where a club could get involved and then retail the screens World-wide but I doubt the Supra Owners Club is capable of doing that so it'd require an individual or consortium to fund the tooling outlay and go from there with purchase, storage, sales and distribution. I don't mind being part of a consortium but I'm reluctant to do it alone. So two questions for anyone here: 1. Does anyone have a rear screen sat out of the tailgate that can be borrowed to scan? 2. Who here would be interested in joining a funding group for a new Heritage glass venture for the Supra A80? For thread additional information: Amayama prices April 2023 Windscreen 5610114020 £1,002 + taxes (VAT and Duty) Rear screen (discontinued) 68131-14250 (price date unknown) £902 + taxes

I do see the benefit the 'embossed' silhouette of the car brings to a design, it is clearly a recognisable representation of a Supra Mk4. Where the bull horns say anything from Corolla to Hilux. Maybe you two could work together to create fantastic things, if you have collectively the time and inclination, leaving any spats at the door. Group think can be a lot of fun.

On the jspec brakes there are pad retaining spring clips that stop the pads moving around. I don't know if the UK brakes have the same setup, if they do are the clips there? They look like this on the jspec brakes

Its an easy mistake to make, like any 50:50 choice. But, it is common to have a larger front disc. I had a hub oil seal fitted the wrong way around on one car, that was a 50:50. I had another car where the crank seal was fitted the wrong way around, another 50:50. It looks like some mechanics probably just toss a coin.

Amayama and US Toyota sites are showing them as discontinued so I'd be shocked if your dealer tracks any down. You can still get the induction hoses but the vac lines look like they are all gone.

The clips should hold the pads fairly square on to the calliper and tight with channels only to move in and out as the piston is applied and released. So if yours are slapping around then you have the wrong or badly fitting pads.

This video may come in useful for forming custom rubber tubing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFDlGPLcK0o&ab_channel=TheGarageHub

Most people use it as a USB charge point. You can either get plug in USB adaptors or replace the lighter socket for a USB one, You can even get USB ports with a voltage readout if the excites you.

I've had my car for almost 25 years now and I've decided, only in the last 2 years, that I'm just going to give it away one day rather than sell it. Sorry Keron, to qualify you have to be a direct in line family member.

£450 scrap - that's a good deal. I'd take that all day long. To sell, maybe a picture or two would be a good idea as the heat shields do tend to rust. Also, worth mentioning if they are pre-facelift or facelift as they are different.

The choice of additives in fuel comes down to what you are hoping to achieve, which fuel and how old your car is. Pre-2007 it is not recommended to put any sulphur containing additives in as this can negatively impact your cat(s) and oxygen sensor(s). Not sure where the 2007 comes in seeing cats were around long before then. The other thing on fuels is that there are advantages to adding additives to petrol to stabilise the ethanol which will become more of an issue as the E numbers will only get bigger over time. That is not an issue in diesel vehicles but gas recirculation causes a lot more oiling fouling of the intake and a good solvent additives can help keep this moving rather than setting down as hard gunk deposits. If you have an old car then there are a ton of videos on the likes of SeaFoam and Marvel Mystery oil, for more modern engines there are recommendations for Gumout which does contain additives similar to Shell premium fuels but in higher concentrations and is cat plus sensor safe. I've used additives in fuels over the years that gave me an extra 2 years on an Audi turbo that had a sticking actuator that would over boost and put the car into limp mode and I also stick a splash in the tank of the cars that I lay up for months at a time to stop the ethanol separation that in a steel tank will cause corrosion and sludge. You could have a whole day of fun watching thousands of fuel and oil additive test and comparison videos on YouTube.

Finally got to putting some batteries into the ESR meter and taking the back of the casing. It's micro electronics 90's style in all its glory. A sea of solder points that is so dense its impossible for my eyes to work out which ones belong to the capacitors. It needs a younger pair of eyes to work on this. I did scan the circuit board with high magnification on my phone to look for any sign of line degradation or overheating on components. There are a few lines that look brown in contrast to the 'normal' ones that look light green with the film covering. The brown lines run in between components so there may have been some circuitry overheating but the lines still look intact. As in, none had any clear and obvious breaks. All the components from the mini resistors, to large block resistors to capacitors and chips all look good and the solder looks fine. An uncommon failure in capacitors is when a leg breaks. Without the ability to identify which joints belong to the capacitors, especially the smaller capacitors, that is impossible to rule in or out as the ECU issue. It really does need a good set of eyes working on it and I've not had perfect vision for 15years now. I tried, but my body says no. Here are a couple of useful 90's Lexus ECU repair videos I found for reference:

Was a time when people would jump all over this type of ad with cries of trader, trader, trader. Fortunately, those types seem to have moved on. Nice to see another repro part and a suggestion to any mods still here is it would be a good idea, in my opinion, to start a new section dedicated to repro parts and their project owners.

It could really shine a light on further explaining the missing bit as there are a lot of older owners these days, me included, who just don't use the car like they used to and need reminding why it isn't always a good idea to sell a Supra.

Something you may want to ask the painters to provide, if they are blending the paint themselves is for a rattle can or two or a tin of the base paint so you have a perfect match for the future if needed. I assume it'll be 2 pack paint so if canned, then the more cans the better seeing they have to be used once used; before the paint hardens. I've done a bit of spraying myself and find 2 pack harder to match than solvent paints so for the sake of a few £ extra it could be a good investment for the future. If its a water based paint then that's a lot easier to store and work with.