rider

Coil clips, just find 6 of somewhere. For the two breather tubes you may as well ask TCB. For the number 7 loom clips you can get those via TCB to. Just be prepared to wait a little while for the clips to come over from Japan. PS - when changing coil clips its essential you put the terminal back into the same position as it came out. So note which is closest to the side clip and put it into the new connector next to the side clip. The best way to do this is just do one wire at a time which makes sure you aren't going to forget which goes where.

There is a suitable one on eBay at the moment. You don't see the old caps listed very often so best be quick, though there are actually 2 listed at the moment.

That's the impression I got as I figured if its frame off then its either engine out or engine support and then you may as well do anything you want to do to the rack and fit new engine mounts while you are there. Which is why I was thinking of just do the bushes, drop links, roll bar, bolts, arms and track rod ends. I've got all the new OEM parts ready to go, its just the motivation that's missing at the moment.

How are you planning on supporting the engine during the changeover or are you going to be taking it out? Thats the question that has me thinking of just changing all the suspension parts rather than titivating the frame as well.

Are you certain the ac compressor is running and its not just the pulley turning as its on an electronic clutch to actually engage the compressor. There is usually a good 150 to 200 rpm tick over difference ac off to ac on so I can tell from the idle if the compressor is running or not. Though to get any kind of cool air in this weather your ac must be functioning so if you switch it off on the button and there is no drop in engine rpm then your compressor would seem to be running all the time, which would mean your clutch has constant power to it seeing its not seized in the engaged position. That would tend to say stuck relay. As for temperature, when its 30C outside you probably aren't going to get super cool air at the vents. The best way to check if your compressor is good and your refrigerant charge is good is to tap a pressure gauge into the low pressure port. You should be around 60 psi with everything off and stood, then 12 to 17 psi with the compressor running. A correct level will also give you liquid running through the sight glass at the front of the car when the compressor is running. If you are seeing a stream of bubbles go past in the sight glass then thats another sign the system is undercharged.

Its an easy DIY job. Before you get stuck in though its best to check your coil clip and loom clip condition when you get the cover off. If they are original you will probably find yourself ordering in replacement coil clips and loom clips ahead of tackling the job as they will likely crumble. If the clips do start to disintegrate on you fill the recesses as far as possible with paper or cotton wool as any plastic fragments will fall into the spark plug recess and from there, if not extracted, they can easily fall into the cylinders once the plugs are removed. If you do need to replace the coil clips its a relatively easy task, just can a bit fiddly to extract the wires from the old clips. There are tube videos that go over how to take the clips apart and withdraw the terminals. You can buy clips cheaply off eBay or not so cheaply from Toyota. The loom clips took 10 weeks to arrive from Toyota but there are generic post clips you can get again off eBay.

A few members, in the more recent past, have done write up of their under body experiences. If you search the archives in the projects and Supra chat sections then that should bring a few threads that will detail products used and steps taken and include pictures to. If you search on the product names you are considering then that should point you in the right general direction.

One sure fire way to get a fair guide is to put the car up for auction with a high reserve so you can be sure it wont sell. With a reserve it probably won't hit the value it would have without reserve but it'd give you a low market guide. Other than that its employ a third party to give a valuation though that could only properly be done with a visit and appraisal so would not be cheap. I think with LV if you write them a little story about how well cared for and maintained the car is blurbing on about FSH if you have that and how original it is an how cherished it has been. Then include a couple of recent sales ads (keep pdf copies on your disc or card) and I think they will be good to go. Some people have commented that are keeping records of sales adverts so you might benefit putting a call out for anyone holding recent ads for your particular car.

I bought a USB into laptop code reader years ago, when USB was fairly new and it cost a lot of money. The kind of thing you can now get from China for £8. So I decided it was time to update and go for something that would do more than just read basic codes and reset the EML. After a bit of a look around ended up going for the Launch Creader 129 aka the V!!!. Plugged it into my Range Rover L322 today and its an amazing piece of kit. Taps into all sorts of live data including auto box temperatures and solenoid pressures which is what I was personally wanting to check out. I went for this code reader because it has a massive list of vehicles it works with (almost all bar PSA). It'll do all the code checks and resets around the systems including ABS and SRS. Well happy and only £180 (incl VAT). It can be found cheaper or more expensive, price ranges from £160 to £290 for this unit. My mechanic matey just spent £3,000 on a code reader and I think I've got something that does 90% of what his will do. For the extra you get things like adaptive resets and electronic brake resets/calibration. There are lots of tube videos on readers and this seems to offer the most functions across the widest vehicle range for this kind of budget price. The hardest thing to work out with was how to change the default Chinese to English on startup. A seriously impressive piece of kit that I would recommend to anyone currently seeking out a good all round budget code reader.

It depends if the contract was between your wife and the business or your wife and the former business owner. The contract heading should detail the partners to a contract and the signatures should state for and on behalf of if signed for a third party or business. If the business name doesn't appear anywhere then your wife should seek permission from the former owner to rescind the contract as she would still, technically be in breach of contract even if it wasn't transferred to the new business owner.

If you don't start off by removing bits like vents, tank guards, heat shields and even the subframe you would be just storing up issues for the future by applying an out of sight out of mind solution to rust. As you say you aren't able to strip down the underside yourself why not approach companies who would do the work for you and some commentators here have highly recommended third party underbody tidy ups that have in some instances cost only a few hundred £. Its worthwhile looking into your options and just reconcile the higher cost with the thought you wont get yourself dirty and that you are protecting an appreciating asset. If you put out a thread asking for recommended companies to do underbody restoration work that'd probably be easier to identify companies others have used than trawling through the archive.

I have had three consecutive years with LV classics and have raised the agreed value level from £18k to £28k with only additional premiums charged to reflect the higher value insured. When the insurance was set up I was requested to send a full set of around the car, engine bay and interior pictures. I also included a fairly detailed submission on my ownership (covering then 18 years) and a few recent sales ads for comparable vehicles listed on eBay, Autotrader or PH. I've never been asked by LV for a third party valuation to support the agreed value. So, either the detailed submission I first made helped in this regard or they have amended their new policy procedures some time over the last 2 years. I'd go back as it doesn't sound right/fair to cancel as insurers will usually knock you off an agreed value back to market value pending fulfilling any steps they require, such as third party valuation, being satisfied. To just cancel cover seems strange unless you have raised some other question marks they have pulled up from the shared insurers database. As a PS to the post, if you suspect there may be incorrect information held on the insurers database about you or your claims history you can always file a request for the copy of the information held and used by insurers. The link is https://www.mib.org.uk/managing-insurance-data/managing-your-data/

Supra gold badges get listed for strong money in the USA as they rarely come up for sale and were a common fitment on several base colour cars in the 1996/7 years and also jspec cars of that era. Your badge is quite badly chipped so isn't likely to be valued that highly, but it'll probably end up more chipped sitting in your tool chest so you might as well see if it shifts. If you are prepared to post overseas you could eBay it on auction and see where it goes, probably £20 would be a good price to achieve in this condition. I think the good quality badges will only become more valued as time goes by as people will naturally prefer NOS (I myself have paid £100 for a NOS gold logo badge) or as good as new if they wish to retain originality as when it comes time to repaint their car, owners would rather add new badges rather than return their old faded and battered badges onto new paint. If you do an eBay listing include the width and height as that differentiates the logo badge on a Supra from lesser Toyota's logo badges.

Is there a preference for UK spec or level of stock on the cars or are they after a wild and wide range? I'm happy to act as a reserve if someone needs to pull out at short notice or there is a struggle getting the numbers together with a lot of people otherwise engaged that weekend. Jspec TT6.

I think there are a good many long term owners on the site and the cars, if maintained, tend to run themselves. In 20 years the only non service item I've had to replace was a holed a/c condenser and the only other items that had passed its sell by was the inter-cooler where the fins had turned to dust and a couple of coil and cable clips where the plastic had gone brittle. The original clutch was replaced due to slight slipping at 104,000 miles, replaced with another Toyota clutch.

You probably should keep up with the going rate for agreed value insurance otherwise you could find your £30k car being paid off with a £6k cheque from your insurers in the event of a total loss.

I recon if you look into the old BL or Fords parts bin you could find what you are looking for. In the 60's and 70's chrome trim strips where everywhere on old Triumphs, Morris, Austin and MG cars. I recall Cortinas, Capris and Anglias had them too along the flanks and around the windows. I checked with the side chrome trim on my MGB, that'd be perfect but its a few mm wider. Moggy minors of the post split screen era had chrome insets into the window rubber, I was looking at one earlier this week as a mate has that car and we will be changing out the screen rubber; they have to be somewhere around the 12mm mark. I'm heading over there today so I'll try to remember to take a ruler and measure up the window surround trim.

I'd recommend you pull off the air inlet and unbolt the vent, from there you can then remove the ducting rubber, You should then get some idea how far the rust has spread. Judging from the pic you could probably bash the holes on the sill to make one very big hole, If you have holes in the sills then you probably are going to be surprised/shocked how much rust there is going on elsewhere unseen. The only way to tackle it is with cut out and new metal or a lot of prep and treatment. Adding over the rust plastic would only make sense if you were looking to move the problem quickly onto someone else. Looks like there are rust bubbles at the base of the door as well so that's something best tackled sooner rather than later. Having done a 100 hour rust bust myself last year its something that is a labour of love or madness but sometimes its the only way to ensure these old cars keep going for the long term.

I've only ever seen that on really old cars where the mounts are a little soggy rather than firm. Mind you, the Supra is a really old car.

There shouldn't be any discernible gearbox noise from within the cab. A bit of flywheel clatter at standing tickover isn't unusual. Be worth investigating the box noise to see if it can be tied down to specific gears or all gears. First checking the oil condition and level of course. A lot of members use, including me, Royal Purple Syncromax in the 6sp box. You'll need just under 2 quarts to fill a box from drained. If changing the oil make sure you tackle the fill plug before draining.

There are a few of us in Shropshire with Supras. I have a TT6 that I bought in 1998 and another member Crossy has a single T Auto that he bought last year and both cars are reasonably stock looking examples. You are more than welcome to drop by for a look see and talk over what to look for and I'm sure Crossy would extend a similar invitation. PM if that'd be something you'd want to do.

I have the HKS Hi Power Racing with its 94mm pipe on my car and its really quiet on the inside but people say it sounds the part from the outside. There are both cats in place on my car. I prefer it to my old 3 inch bespoke MIJ exhaust that was a lot louder and very boomy on overrun, maybe its an age thing?

This might help till you can get the paper manuals.

It is dependent on the shipping being fulfilled by Amazon from their warehouse rather than from a third party vendor.

See if you can get it via amazon.com. I just had a small jiffy envelope with carburettor parts from them and it was something like US$4 shipping.