rider

I'll put it out there it was me that went to view the car yesterday and levelled an offer. Cash wedge in pocket ready to leave a good deposit but although I made what I felt was a fair and reasonable offer it wasn't a deal clincher bite your hand off offer and then there was still bits to be taken off and put back onto the car to get it back more to stock that its was left parting ways to have a little think on the offer. 24 hours later it's safe to assume I'm not going to be the car buyer. Lee is a really genuine seller and even went as far to arrange to get it up on a ramp at a nearby garage. It's a good car and it also has, in Supra terms, a really big history file. The thing with a sale, anything is only worth what someone with their face in front of you is prepared to pay and after inspection it didn't have me thinking I'd be stupid not to to part with £19k of my own money. For anyone on the look out for a UK Auto TT it's well worth a viewing. If anyone intends taking the journey over and would like an impartial on the car ahead of that feel free to ask.

Arm bushing or joints don't go from being fine to causing instability by simply loosening and then tightening some cam adjusters to set the alignment. As other have typed, the silicone can be easily reapplied, it has nothing to do with the operation of the ball joint. I'd check they actually tightened the cam bolts back up to the specified torque and also that they haven't just stripped the bolt thread by tightening down on the cam bolt rather than the nut which would then allow the cam to rotate on and along the sub frame slot that the bolt feeds through and with that moving the toe setting on the wheel onto wobble setting. You'd need to take it to another alignment shop to get that checked, I'd recommend having a spare cam bolt and nut set in case one on there has been thread stripped.

Might be worth your while adding what it is running at and whether the frame, transmission and engine bushes remain OE, are were uprated to poly or all switched to solid as that'd have a big effect on handling and noise levels.

Presumably if the transmission hasn't been changed and its running stock 2JZ internals the car is running well short of its 'capable 750HP'?

Evin has pretty much covered it but it'd be best to find somewhere were someone can move the car at least once a month. It only needs moving 50 yards forward and back. That'd retain the boundary lubrication on all the engine and transmission parts throughout any term storage and prevent flat spots forming on tyres. After a couple of years anything not immersed in oil will be then be very much on a dry start. In the old days a common ploy was to add a squirt of diesel to the bore of an engine that had been stood to lubricate the cylinders and oiling the cam/rockers then hand rotate the engine a few revolutions before attempting to start the engine.

There are three Premier Inns at the venue which are showing booked through third party booing sites but have rooms available through the Premier Inn own web site so it looks like availability is limited. Anyone thinking of staying the Saturday rate is 50% higher than the Friday night rate.

You should noticed the difference on the new bushes and wheel bearings, its like back to the new car stiffness and poise and road noise rumble level. Is that greasers you have on the roll bar bushes, never seen that before on a Supra? If it runs into the bush and helps eliminate the conical wear on the roll bar tubing its a well worthwhile mod.

Hi Ian, always figured variety is best for any show stand so hopefully fresh volunteers will flood in but I can be your backstop to put my car on stand over the show if others who haven't done it before don't come forth. I would need to book a hotel and arrange transport to and from the event so there would need to be venue hotel vacancy as I'd rather not be stranded miles away with no wheels. I'm presuming you will be travelling to the show each day seeing its fairly local to you rather than staying in a hotel?

I was just comparing the Torque GT picture with the others. The lower lip just looks to be ill fitting compared.

Welcome and enjoy. The OEM front lip looks so much better than the lower one that is presumably on the car today in the top picture.

I think you can get different kinds of auto dimming mirrors. One reacting to light and one to the lack of light. My Merc auto dims when the instrument panels switches to night mode rather than when dazzling headlights approach as was the case in my older Audi. I prefer the dash night time illumination auto dim, i suppose on a Supra that would be somehow wired in parallel with the cluster lights which would be a faff.

Tried it on oils and the code is restricted to brake products.

Being a private club with no published accounts its difficult for members to know what the funding situation is; beyond Als lack of people means lack of funds comment. This could impact on other events particularly thinking of the ones Ian organises as people tend to travel to those which entails several nights in hotels so its a few hundred £ in up front well in advance outlay. The prospect of events being cancelled or scaled back because of lack of participation could precipitate a lack of participation. So, hopefully Ian has his funding agreed/secured for this years Manchester and Birmingham classic car shows.

It'd be worthwhile buying the OE side skirt, air vents and spoiler as they come up in black which they do on places like eBay regularly but not very often. So if you are in no desperate hurry you could amass a full set over time and that gives you all the options on what to put on or leave off with anything you don't use you can store or easily sell on. Generally with Supra parts like these the longer you store them the more valuable they become.

No idea on the clip you are after but a tip for anyone seeking to replace the U clips is they were common to a lot of Toyotas of the era, including the Hilux. I bought my replacements from this supplier for a lot less than anywhere else was selling them.

Therein lies the rub, performance tyres means different things to different people. I personally go Bridgestone because they hold onto their rubber better than most and are quieter than most. The Supra is a noisy road car with most roads being surface dressed with chippings these days especially if wider lower profile than OE spec tyres are used, which they almost always are. I found as i got older over the 20 years with the car where I've used Falken, Goodyear, Michelin, Continental, Pirelli and Bridgestone tyres the lower the tyre noise generated became increasingly desirable as the desire for 150mph runs and tyre spinning became a less over time. Its probably an age related choice.

Your best option for cost effectiveness would probably be to import a NA from Japan and strip it down for parts selling on the interior and rear parts to recover some of the cost then disposing of the rolling shell. There is so much discontinued now, you can forget ever rebuilding the a/c with oem lines without access to a stripper and that includes if you put the work out to a body shop. Which lead us to why not strip your car and put the money you raise from the parts towards buying another as it does read like its suffered very heavy damage.

IF you didn't change the coil clips when you changed the packs and they are still original then they can disintegrate where the leads enter the clip which could allow some lateral terminal movement. Other than that I'd look to swap out the igniter with someone else in Yorkshire to see if that solves the problem. After that the cam and crank position sensors can lead to missfire occurring. Check the leads and connector integrity are good with those. Then it could be a dirty MAF sensor leading to running lean under load. If you have a decent multi-meter you can test the sensors are functioning. I'd take a punt your problem is going to be a dodgy position sensor signal.

No because its quite thick bore tubing so a fold flattens the tube at the bend. I know this because I had one with this damage from Toyota Oxford.

Newly listed TT6 on eBay. 1994 with 40k miles. Had an engine rebuild and respray to a non OE colour, presumably because someone just wanted to do it. Seats do look a very worn for 40k miles. Looks to be missing the ABS pump which isn't mentioned in the ad. Cheap for a TT6 and really cheap for a 40k mile TT6. It's only done 6k miles in the last 10 years of MOT history so I suppose anything is possible, honest.

Not everything is a bargain at Europarts as it looks like at least some of service items have been price ramped to match the discount offered. An example is Castrol Magnatec (A5) Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - 5W-30 4l £42.49 before discount which after discount comes down to pretty much the same as OPIE oils before any discount is applied there and they always have a discount code available somewhere. So do check and compare the prices folks before ordering.

These tend to end up folded at least once by couriers to make them easier to handle.

Don't think there have been any critics, just lots of drooling. My wing bolts are painted 040 and my car has never been resprayed on what I am sure are the original under bonnet body panels as I have owned the car since it was nearly new.

Is that the original paint finish under the bonnet, just wondered as mine is matt finish non lacquered under there? This would be a good site to advertise for an International buyer. I'd recon US$45k would see it on its way.