rider

Welcome and enjoy. The OEM front lip looks so much better than the lower one that is presumably on the car today in the top picture.

I think you can get different kinds of auto dimming mirrors. One reacting to light and one to the lack of light. My Merc auto dims when the instrument panels switches to night mode rather than when dazzling headlights approach as was the case in my older Audi. I prefer the dash night time illumination auto dim, i suppose on a Supra that would be somehow wired in parallel with the cluster lights which would be a faff.

Tried it on oils and the code is restricted to brake products.

Being a private club with no published accounts its difficult for members to know what the funding situation is; beyond Als lack of people means lack of funds comment. This could impact on other events particularly thinking of the ones Ian organises as people tend to travel to those which entails several nights in hotels so its a few hundred £ in up front well in advance outlay. The prospect of events being cancelled or scaled back because of lack of participation could precipitate a lack of participation. So, hopefully Ian has his funding agreed/secured for this years Manchester and Birmingham classic car shows.

It'd be worthwhile buying the OE side skirt, air vents and spoiler as they come up in black which they do on places like eBay regularly but not very often. So if you are in no desperate hurry you could amass a full set over time and that gives you all the options on what to put on or leave off with anything you don't use you can store or easily sell on. Generally with Supra parts like these the longer you store them the more valuable they become.

No idea on the clip you are after but a tip for anyone seeking to replace the U clips is they were common to a lot of Toyotas of the era, including the Hilux. I bought my replacements from this supplier for a lot less than anywhere else was selling them.

Therein lies the rub, performance tyres means different things to different people. I personally go Bridgestone because they hold onto their rubber better than most and are quieter than most. The Supra is a noisy road car with most roads being surface dressed with chippings these days especially if wider lower profile than OE spec tyres are used, which they almost always are. I found as i got older over the 20 years with the car where I've used Falken, Goodyear, Michelin, Continental, Pirelli and Bridgestone tyres the lower the tyre noise generated became increasingly desirable as the desire for 150mph runs and tyre spinning became a less over time. Its probably an age related choice.

Your best option for cost effectiveness would probably be to import a NA from Japan and strip it down for parts selling on the interior and rear parts to recover some of the cost then disposing of the rolling shell. There is so much discontinued now, you can forget ever rebuilding the a/c with oem lines without access to a stripper and that includes if you put the work out to a body shop. Which lead us to why not strip your car and put the money you raise from the parts towards buying another as it does read like its suffered very heavy damage.

IF you didn't change the coil clips when you changed the packs and they are still original then they can disintegrate where the leads enter the clip which could allow some lateral terminal movement. Other than that I'd look to swap out the igniter with someone else in Yorkshire to see if that solves the problem. After that the cam and crank position sensors can lead to missfire occurring. Check the leads and connector integrity are good with those. Then it could be a dirty MAF sensor leading to running lean under load. If you have a decent multi-meter you can test the sensors are functioning. I'd take a punt your problem is going to be a dodgy position sensor signal.

No because its quite thick bore tubing so a fold flattens the tube at the bend. I know this because I had one with this damage from Toyota Oxford.

Newly listed TT6 on eBay. 1994 with 40k miles. Had an engine rebuild and respray to a non OE colour, presumably because someone just wanted to do it. Seats do look a very worn for 40k miles. Looks to be missing the ABS pump which isn't mentioned in the ad. Cheap for a TT6 and really cheap for a 40k mile TT6. It's only done 6k miles in the last 10 years of MOT history so I suppose anything is possible, honest.

Not everything is a bargain at Europarts as it looks like at least some of service items have been price ramped to match the discount offered. An example is Castrol Magnatec (A5) Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - 5W-30 4l £42.49 before discount which after discount comes down to pretty much the same as OPIE oils before any discount is applied there and they always have a discount code available somewhere. So do check and compare the prices folks before ordering.

These tend to end up folded at least once by couriers to make them easier to handle.

Don't think there have been any critics, just lots of drooling. My wing bolts are painted 040 and my car has never been resprayed on what I am sure are the original under bonnet body panels as I have owned the car since it was nearly new.

Is that the original paint finish under the bonnet, just wondered as mine is matt finish non lacquered under there? This would be a good site to advertise for an International buyer. I'd recon US$45k would see it on its way.

Probably worth adding the show is in Manchester. Its well worth couple of days out for anyone who hasn't shown their car before.

With a Range Rover its best described as an off road Bentley, a commentator once noted. I have very recently bought myself a 2008 Vogue TDV8 for very little money ( I spent much more on Supra parts last year) and they are not a lot of money because they are really expensive to run as turbos, egr valves and gearboxes are regarded as service replacement items .But for a few £thousands there are very few cars where you get to drive sitting in your favourite armchair with the best cooling system I've ever experienced in a car (great in this weather) and I'm hoping we get lots and lots of snow this winter. In another 30 years it'll be exempt from road tax anyway.

There is no way that anyone can effectively steam clean any car with 6 inches of ground clearance on a driveway. It needs to get up on a ramp and use a steam pressure washer. I did that to my Supra before undertaking my underside refresh and its very wet and very dirty work so probably worth paying someone that much to do but only when up on a ramp.

I suppose the good news is if you are only shipping water into one cylinder then its very unlikely there is any cracked block damage. I did try once on an old Ford Essex V6 in my Capri of the time to just change a failed head gasket and hope that'd fix it because that car was my only car, the daily driver but nope had to get the head off again the next weekend and off for skimming. So it is definitely worth getting the head all checked out before reassembly even if it means losing the car for a week or so and while its off as Chris says its a no brainer to get the valves checked over and stem seals done at the same time. I fear your wallet is about to get seriously assaulted.

You can mix synthetic and semi synthetic oils as unless the cans actually says its based on ester or PAO, generally synthetic oil are just highly refined mineral oil to give it a low volatility because it is solvent refined to a narrower more uniform cut with the light (more volotile) bits removed. Even if the oil is Ester or PAO based they are miscible (mixable) the only potential issues then arise with additive package incompatibility between the different base oils could lead to a little bit of sediment forming of usually the carbonate variety (which is a abrasive solid) so although your oil filter will take care of it its not ideal. If you want to conduct a oil industry sediment test on the oils mix the two oils 50:50ml and have two 100:0 controls and stand in jam jars in the dark at room temperature for 4 weeks and see if any grey sediment forms at the bottom of the jar. If no sediment forms in the mixed then you have two perfectly compatible oils. If you do get sediment in the mix then check the two controls. This test would of course require that you don't need to change the oil any time soon.

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It doesn't look good unfortunately, hopefully its just a blow gasket causing the issues. Beyond that there is a lot of rust in the coolant, with these iron blocks people really should go waterless coolant or do the recommended change every 2 years as inhibitors do age degrade.

Its a chess game with a lot of indicators along the way though. I've ditched loads of slow paying customers, some of them big customers, because of their payment habits, credit score, free cash and leverage indicates they are going to fail. Maybe not this year, maybe not next but fail they will. The stats tell you what you are facing, 40% of business close within 5 years of opening, 60% close within 10 years, over 90% close within 50 years. Very few make it to 100 years, like Woolworths did then it died. Having started up a business in 2003 over 100 of the 170 companies that we have supplied in 15 years of operating are no longer trading, only three closures have taken us for money and it was only small change in the scheme of things. Anyone invoicing clients should be signed up with a credit agency where they can view company information, financial standing, ratings, director history and get real time alerts. We use creditsafe ourselves and have done for many years to monitor customers, potential customers and competitors.