rider

If you purchased it completely stock do you retain the SMIC, headlight washers and active spoiler. Those washers are worth their weight in gold these days and probably the easiest way to spot a UK first registered car.

PMd

I believe blythmrk has a new one available. PM him for a price if you want new or if you are on a tight budget best stick to recycled.

I heard it went for £11k to a trader so it might reappear some time soon as a flipper.

£5k would probably not cover half the missing parts that you can see are missing. Recovering a working a/c would take nearly £2k in parts as the pipework is discontinued so would need fabricating. Then the ABS is absent so are the sensors still there and working, that lot could be another £2k. Then the inter-cooler and oil cooler, there is another £1k+ using non OEM parts. Looks wiring and fuses light. Then if you want an air box with pipework and shrouds and ducting, well thats probably going to be £1k. Then there is the radiator, have to be a non OE one there. Fuses, igniter, charcoal canisters, inter cooler ducting - there is another £2k or so. Front lights, you'd be looking at another £1k there. Front bumper and paint, thats got to be another £1k. Battery and tray, thats not going to cost loads. Looks like no exhaust to, if you need cats and exhaust to get to stock thats minimum £1k spend buying second hand. The engine loom, they are expensive if you can still get them, probably another £500 if you can get one secondhand. This all assumes no labour beyond your own endeavours.

I recently bought in several heater control bulbs. Still available from Mr T. Not cheap though, several £ each. Think they were around £5 each from memory for a part that probably cost 2p to make.

I polish up my log burner glass every few years. The professionals recommend and use cerium oxide powder made into a paste and then that is power mopped into the glass. You can get different grade powder depending on how aggressive you want the surface polishing to get from just a clean up to removing deep scratches. Obviously works easiest and best on large glass surfaces but you can get small felt pads for power drills for tackling the smaller stuff.

A picture tells a thousand words so looking at this will show the difference.

Most classifieds are now on facebook so maybe best pitching it onto there where there are a few £25k to £35k manual stock and modified Supras up at the moment. I doubt raising the price by £2.5k on here is suddenly going to motivate people to buy who weren't motivated before at the previous price.

If you look at the c/l controller under the passenger seat and whether it has a small programme button, if it does there are online procedures on what you need to do. I'd suspect it wont as the earlier Denso units didn't and your car is an earlier model. If there is no programme button then I haven't found any means to pair a second/new remote and assume they could have been Denso paired rather than Toyota paired. There are a couple of procedures online that take you through a process of lock unlock ignition on ignition off whilst pressing buttons on the remote but I have never had any joy with those. I tried talking to Toyota about it but they were totally useless. Your best bet may be to see if your faulty remote can be checked over to see what the fault is. I had a second fob programmed for my Range Rover by these guys who are close to you, all others said it was main dealer only. So well worth a call to see if they can clone a second working fob off your working one. If they can they will have lots of people calling them so do post up the outcome if you do approach them. PS - hope they aren't your house keys on display as they will be more easily cloned than a Supra remote.

I use to let people do test drives but a few joy riders later I no longer do that. Instead I give buyers, after they part with the cash, a written 30 minutes from time of purchase contract where they can return the car (in its departing condition) for a full refund. Never had anyone return a car and never had to suffer any joy rider either.

It reads like you could do with an arbitrator to step in who can negotiate an acceptable route and time frame to completion which may involve additional costs to you to compensate for extra time taken to fit a body kit or extraction with compensation. Or, you could just take your car back now and take legal action for compensation which may or may not be successful. Even if you gain a court order you still need to extract payment and there may not be the funds available to settle a court order. This is a company in some amount of turmoil! Reading between the lines something unlawful could have occurred to provoke a compulsory strike of action. With this level of churn, it would not be unusual for the company to lose a bit of customer focus and it indicates a fragility in the company that could mean you lose the commission completely and then have the paint company holding onto your car pending additional payment should any money be owed them. I'd extract myself and my car from the situation as quickly as possible. PS - As an additional note, extending the accounting period can be done for many reasons. It can be to fit in with the tax year but this date doesn't do that. Or it can be because the accounts are in disarray and need extra time to 'work out'. Or it can be delaying when a company goes bump to grab as much tax and VAT and customer money before going bump. The company is now not required to file accounts until January 2019.

It does look like people are overstretching the market more often now. The Supra inflation of 30% a year has slowed this year to have probably stalled, price inflation this year will be likely be around 10%. I still expect a stock TT6 will be pushing £45k to £50k within 5 years which is in line with market predictions that Supras will plateau out around similar pricing to the Honda NSX. Which would mean the days of 30% inflation are over so anyone wanting to cash in. now would be a decent time.

There are two camps and always will be. Sometimes modders see their originality as an improvement returning a superior car, then other see it as a personal choice. Both camps are very stuck in their ways, that doesn't make anyone right or anyone wrong. Its personal property to do with what you want. I've kept my '65 Mustang Fastback as it was the day I bought it 4 years ago which is pretty much stock aside from a front drum to disc mod. I've kept my Supra exactly as I bought it 20 years ago. I'm just clearly not a modder. Some interesting reads from both sides of classic car ownership: http://www.mustangandfords.com/project-vehicles/25980-modified-or-stock/ https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/01/05/stock-vs-modified-for-your-ride https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/general-discussion-non-vintage-mustang/842377-stock-vs-restomod-value.html A comment that sums up the issue for modded cars getting old that I can relate to is this one in the forum link:

You keep on throwing out this 'I've had 4 Supras' like that's some kind of an authority badge. The classic car market didn't manifest itself with the arrival of the Supra. You can always have the occasional highly valued modified classic cars like you see with the old British marques tribute cars of Le Mans winners or those with a rally pedigree. Of course the original factory works cars are by a very long way more valued still than any modders creation or recreation. Classic appeal has nothing to do with how fast the car went otherwise morris minors and bubble cars wouldn't get a look in or the fiat 500's. The question raised was, lets remind ourselves, is OEM best to maintain value and in the instance of cars its as close as possible to factory original that is a good bet to give best value and with an appreciating classic it follows on its also going to give you the best security and return on your money. Owners can either look at the rising prices as an opportunity to invest in buying a car, invest in their car (to buy those very expensive Toyota parts) or to cash in and buy something that's a lot more current. Now this is just my personal opinion. Everyone has a right to their own opinion. I have no problem with your opinions and would never say you are wrong or simplistic because a forum thrives on both shared and competing opinions.

It is with every classic car in the car World so its very unlikely Supras will be any different. The reason stock endures is because its timeless whereas mods date and become old so these cars require constant upgrades to keep them current. So even though modded cars will always get good prices the costs are high to mod and then maintain so from an investment viewpoint its all pretty much a no brainer.

I'm planning on swapping a replacement 1st and 2nd cat onto my car next Spring time so if you'd like to have first dibs on the one(s) coming off let me know. Only replacing due to heat shield has been hump bashed a lot over the years, other than that the part itself works fine. Don't know if Toyota stock the heat shields as a seperate part or not?

As there are several options of the rear quarters, I think you need the grey tint non aero but it's probably best you confirm this.

Probably worth you adding whether you are after facelift wheels or pre-facelift.

I have a set of Toyota bilsteins I replaced on my car with new only because I'm replacing lots of OEM parts with new OEM parts. It probably depends what you mean by good, these are fully functional good but being 20 years old (sat on my shelf for 2) and 95k mile on the car they don't look new. If interested PM me an offer.

I think you are confusing the appreciation rate with value. Stock cars are rising in value faster than modded cars and have been for a few years now. So by deduction, anyone seeking an investment through the purchase of a Supra would see a much better return by selecting and buying a stock version of the car. Traders are shifting stock cars at advertised prices well North of £30k these days. But to get back on topic £20k is a bit of a ask for any car with transmission issues.

Increasingly the appreciation is around stock cars and this car seems a long way from stock. Its value will also be tied somewhat to what the starting car was, as detailed on the VIN plate. There is no info on what the car started out as within the advert and £20k is particularly strong money for any car with R154 transmission issues. It'd be strong money even if it were an otherwise pristine stock TT6 car suffering V160/161 issues.

Black death is very easily spotted as a black sludge or black hard varnish build up caused by PMA VI improvers dropping out of the oil and then depositing. VI improvers are thick polymers so when they drop out of the oil its never good news for the oil galleries in the engine and to bearing surfaces. Its usually caused by infrequent servicing leading to high acidity in the oil or poor engine crankcase breathing on a worn engine suffering blow by gasses. Its not that frequent these days, being more of a nineties problem. But then again, these cars were around in the 90's so this car may have had poor oil flow issues for a long time.

My financial adviser used to turn up in one, a 7, but got shot after 18 months saying it was too unpredictable on mini roundabouts and he hated the service stop every 3 months.

Amazing when considering that some traders or chancers are posting these up for £400 dinged, bashed, cracked and scraped online.